Any Tire Gurus In The House? I Have Square Tires.

[Number Three]

Well, I just picked up the Chateau I purchased from my brother and drove her home. The tires are square from sitting for almost a year w/o moving. I knew about this already (from a short test-drive two weeks back), but they didn't seem to want to smooth out the whole way home (abt 10 miles). The vibration felt like the beast was going to disintegrate around me between here n there! I was afraid to drive over 45MPH, but speed didn't seem to matter anyhow, until she got below 20MPH.
My question: Are the less-than-two-year-old tires bricked from sitting too long? Or are there any fixes for this "Flintstone Syndrome"?

 

[ducksface]

I have vehicles that sit for five years at a time without this problem.
It happens but I'd find it odd.
A pretty fair percentage of rv owners do not use their rv for some years at a time.
We all know the
'I just bought a 2015 with 12,000 miles' stories.

Go to a tire shop.
Ask them.
It could be as simple as dirt throwing them out of balance.

Tires can go out of round from sitting. Nothing we say can trump what the shop says about your tires after inspection.

 

[SGilbert]

Steel belted radials won't do that, but Nylon/synthetic belted ones do.
They SHOULD round themselves out over the 10 miles you drove, but may take longer as they sat so long.
If I were you, I'd consult a reputable tire dealer for a final diagnoses.

 

[ghnl]

I remember that my Dad had a pick up truck with camper. He bought a set of heavy duty tires that must have had nylon or similar belts. It took a lot more than 10 miles of driving before our fillings would stop falling out of our teeth.

You can try making sure they are fully inflated and, if you can stand it, drive 50 or 60 miles. But if they sat for two years - perhaps not fully inflated - the damage may be done.

 

[16ACE27]

What SGilbert said. With no real history on the tires you could have a slipped belt, bent rim, loose lugnuts, etc. No "expert" can diagnose over the web. Get it to a local expert, maybe the shop that sold/installed the tires if local.

 

[blw2]

I think the advice to consult a tire shop for an expert diagnosis is sound... in theory. Sure that sounds like a great idea.... but I have pretty close to zero confidence that most of the folks in tire shops will know (or care). My bet is that they will all point to balance as the primary variable and as a baseline will suggest spin balancing right then in there....and if/when that fails they'll suggest the tires are bad and need to be replaced.

I've had cars before that after sitting for a while, especially in the cold, would take quite a few miles to smooth out but I don't have a mental note of how long it took. After 10 miles I would think that they would be at least a lot better... and if yours were no different then yeah, maybe there's a problem....

Were the tires aired up well the whole time it say or was there ever a time when they sat flat or nearly so? If that was the case then I would suspect damaged tires and would probably just replace them right away. These long class C's are HEAVY. My drive axle tires sit basically at or over their weight capacity all the time, so I don't think it's wise to play with bad tires. Blowouts can cause lots of damage (I have first-hand experience)

Are the tires really just two years old (by the date code)?
If so, I think that what I would probably do is drive it a bit more after giving them a really good look-over. Crawl under and have a look at the rims, between the dually's, etc... Make sure there's no cracking or anything like that, no dirt or rocks or rats nests caught between the wheels, etc... Double check the pressure, then go for another drive, preferably on a warm day..... You said it was better under 20mph, so I'd try to find a place to drive 25-30 for a while, then gradually speed up...35, 45. Stop-and-go-in-town type driving might be a good way to work the tires while keeping the speeds low. I think that I would go more on time than distance at those speeds but I have no idea how long (or far)...just to make something up maybe 30 minutes to an hour.
If it seems like it's getting better then I'd probably keep trying longer but if it was still the same after that then I'd be visiting a shop to get the tires pulled, inspected, reseated, spin balanced, and the alignment checked.

If you do replace them, on a 31 class C, I'd strongly encourage you to get C-rated commercial tires instead of the LT tires that would have come on the thing originally. these Kumho's are the tires I put on mine a little more than two years ago and I've been happy with these. Sleep a little better knowing they have a higher load capacity and should be a bit more durable...I don't cringe quite as badly if I hit a rough spot in the road....

good luck!

 

[Number Three]

I think the advice to consult a tire shop for an expert diagnosis is sound... in theory. Sure that sounds like a great idea.... but I have pretty close to zero confidence that most of the folks in tire shops will know (or care). My bet is that they will all point to balance as the primary variable and as a baseline will suggest spin balancing right then in there....and if/when that fails they'll suggest the tires are bad and need to be replaced.

I've had cars before that after sitting for a while, especially in the cold, would take quite a few miles to smooth out but I don't have a mental note of how long it took. After 10 miles I would think that they would be at least a lot better... and if yours were no different then yeah, maybe there's a problem....

Were the tires aired up well the whole time it say or was there ever a time when they sat flat or nearly so? If that was the case then I would suspect damaged tires and would probably just replace them right away. These long class C's are HEAVY. My drive axle tires sit basically at or over their weight capacity all the time, so I don't think it's wise to play with bad tires. Blowouts can cause lots of damage (I have first-hand experience)

Are the tires really just two years old (by the date code)?
If so, I think that what I would probably do is drive it a bit more after giving them a really good look-over. Crawl under and have a look at the rims, between the dually's, etc... Make sure there's no cracking or anything like that, no dirt or rocks or rats nests caught between the wheels, etc... Double check the pressure, then go for another drive, preferably on a warm day..... You said it was better under 20mph, so I'd try to find a place to drive 25-30 for a while, then gradually speed up...35, 45. Stop-and-go-in-town type driving might be a good way to work the tires while keeping the speeds low. I think that I would go more on time than distance at those speeds but I have no idea how long (or far)...just to make something up maybe 30 minutes to an hour.
If it seems like it's getting better then I'd probably keep trying longer but if it was still the same after that then I'd be visiting a shop to get the tires pulled, inspected, reseated, spin balanced, and the alignment checked.

If you do replace them, on a 31 class C, I'd strongly encourage you to get C-rated commercial tires instead of the LT tires that would have come on the thing originally. these Kumho's are the tires I put on mine a little more than two years ago and I've been happy with these. Sleep a little better knowing they have a higher load capacity and should be a bit more durable...I don't cringe quite as badly if I hit a rough spot in the road....

good luck!

The problem with finding a tire expert, much less. a good tire shop around these parts is there aren't ANY I trust --- They all seem to be a real crap-shoot, or the proverbial box of chocolates. I guess it's that way everywhere, but I've had experiences with four separate local tire shops for various car tires, and feel like I got snake-bit at each one, with everything form 'tire monkey' damage to inflated labor prices.
I told my brother (who I bought the coach from) about this issue, and he said they do get a flat spot after sitting for a month or more, but he never had any vibration after a mile or so after such downtime. He aired them up the day before I picked it up, but he ALSO said that the driver-inside dually was extremely low at that time... Like 20 PSI ! That's probably the culprit.

I checked them before i left his house (he wasn't home) and they were all within a pound of spec on my gauge. I checked them yesterday and that inside dually was 6lbs lower now than the rest of the rear tires again. It's been a week, so I guess there's a slow leak.
All but one of the TPS batteries were D.O.A., when I checked them --- so were no help at all. I guess they only last 9 months or so?

Anyhow, I think I will take the advice of the forum's 'consensus' and have them checked out before driving anywhere with this else with this monster, because you're right --- She's HEAVY and handles like a 55 ft hatteras in rough seas! "For the life of me" (or anyone else on the road with me), I don't trust any of these tires now.

But yes, that's an EXCELLENT price for those tires you linked to! I'm tempted to just have a complete set drop-shipped here, then find someone locally to install them. Do you know what the difference is between "16C" and "16E"? in the sizing?
The existing date codes on these are all over the place, from "0221" to "3023" and everything in-between.

 

[blw2]

yeah, I've had many cases over teh years of wheels bent by tire shops...and even one case when I had brakes done, the pads were packed in lithium grease so they wouldn't squeal leaving their lot. When I went back the manager suggested that they don't even have that type of grease in the shop...and that someone must not like me (I suppose implying that someone had sabotaged my brakes so that I would crash)


Anyway
I don't know the context of your 16E reference, but it's likely the "load range" E

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireSearchResults.jsp?width=225/&ratio=75&diameter=16&keywordSearch=225/75R16

max load is like 2680#
It's what came on mine and probably yours too... and is what is more commonly available as the highest capacity for the size at any tire shop

https://www.tirerack.com/upgrade-garage/what-are-load-ranges-ply-ratings

The C in the tire I am running now isn't the load range...They are not load range C tires. As I understand it it means "commercial". They have a higher load capacity. From what I could tell when I was looking into it they are not commonly in stock at local places but can be ordered.

I have so far only had the one experience ordering from tirerack but I've learned a lot from their site and the reviews there. I used one of the installers they have a relationship with. The tires were a decent price, shipped to the tire shop, and delivered fresh date codes. It was a good experience. They also had a mobile service as I recall that would come to you.

 

[Hondavalk_]

Check the date code and if their over 6 years old I would consider buying new. Also if their China bombs I would just replace with Goodyear Endurance tires.

 

[ducksface]

Check the date code and if their over 6 years old I would consider buying new. Also if their China bombs I would just replace with Goodyear Endurance tires.

Aren't those horse trailer tires?
Are trailer tires ok for driven vehicles?

 

[Number Three]

Aren't those horse trailer tires?
Are trailer tires ok for driven vehicles?

They're all Goodyear Wrangler "Pro Grade", with date codes all under 5 yrs. That said (and given that 'voyage home' experience), we've both decided to change them ALL out before any real traveling is done. But being new to RV's bigger than popups, we're going to "yard-camp" and do a couple weekends at a local campground, to determine if we want to keep the Chateau. If we do keep the rig, these tires are history.

 

[ducksface]

The recommended tires in post #9...
Ignore that recommendation.
They are horse trailer and general use tires.
They are not
motorized rv tires(unless I'm wrong).

 

[SGilbert]

The recommended tires in post #9...
Ignore that recommendation.
They are horse trailer and general use tires.
They are not rv tires(unless I'm wrong).

Well, you're half right. Goodyear Endurance tires took the place of Goodyear Marathon tires as top of the line trailer tires. Not just for horse trailers, but ALL trailers; boat, cargo, construction, etc., etc.

 

[ducksface]

Well, you're half right. Goodyear Endurance tires took the place of Goodyear Marathon tires as top of the line trailer tires. Not just for horse trailers, but ALL trailers; boat, cargo, construction, etc., etc.

I used 'Horse trailer' as a pejorative to invoke a thought of the silliness of the recommended tires IF the Chateau isn't a trailer.

 

[rudyhehn]

I see lots of negative reviews about tire shop. My experience has been quite good. It sounds like you've decided to get new tires, but if not, having a tire shop removed tires and check them as a reasonable option. You do need to use a tire shop which is able to handle large RV tires. Some of the smaller shops cannot do that.

 

[ducksface]

I'm fairly sure a thor chateau 31 uses the same?(ish) size tires as a stock low-line jeep.

 

[Number Three]

We decided not to chance it at all (outside of getting it to the tire store, that is). We just purchased new Michelin Agilis Cross-Climate 115R E1's all around. We're now awaiting delivery and an actual tag for the RV.... Annoying, but the closest appointment I could get for the DMV to get the tag is the 10th (which I actually booked 3 weeks ago).
Thanks for all the great advice, y'all. You may have saved some lives here.

 

[ducksface]

We decided not to chance it at all (outside of getting it to the tire store, that is). We just purchased new Michelin Agilis Cross-Climate 115R E1's all around. We're now awaiting delivery and an actual tag for the RV.... Annoying, but the closest appointment I could get for the DMV to get the tag is the 10th (which I actually booked 3 weeks ago).
Thanks for all the great advice, y'all. You may have saved some lives here.

The best idea was buying the new tires.
That $1k+ is a veritable drop-in-the-bucket compared to what you'll spend on the rv in the year to come.

Think of the expense as;
End of life money.

If you think you'll have money reserves late on in life;
That tire money you just spent doesn't mean diddly-squat.
A dead-guys estate just bought you tires.
Thank yourself.

(end-of-life-money
is a new definition for me. I always knew of it but someone I know elegantly said it in a direct manner a couple of months ago. It's added an easy clarity for me and the spousal unit.)

And
Arizona has private companies that do dmv work.
For a $35 add-on I get service all but immediately.
We've never waited more than 10 minutes...as just a walk-in.
So many people, maybe 90% here, don't know about this.
That little office is 50miles(and three weeks)closer than our dmv.


Florida?

 

[Number Three]

The best idea was buying the new tires.
That $1k+ is a veritable drop-in-the-bucket compared to what you'll spend on the rv in the year to come.

Think of the expense as;
End of life money.

If you think you'll have money reserves late on life;
That tire money you just spent doesn't mean diddly-squat.
A dead-guys estate just bought you tires.
Thank yourself.

(end-of-life-money
is a new definition for me. I always knew of it but someone I know elegantly said it in a direct manner a couple of months ago. It's added an easy clarity for me and the spousal unit.)

And
Arizona has private companies that do dmv work.
For a $35 add-on I get service all but immediately.
We've never waited more than 10 minutes...as just a walk-in.
So many people, maybe 90% here, don't know about this.
That little office is 50miles(and three weeks)closer than our dmv.


Florida?

I never looked at it like that, but you have a point. hmmm --- I've been eyeballing a small, Japanese HF ham rig for the RV. I may just pull the trigger on that purchase too
Yes, Florida. I never had to make an appointment before, but things have changed since my last visit there. they tell me, "service is very fast once you show up for your appointment", but appointments are >1 month out. They do still take walk-ins, but you may be there all day.
As the band, Primus put it, "How do I spell trouble? I spell it DMV... (etc)"

 

[16ACE27]

I never looked at it like that, but you have a point. hmmm --- I've been eyeballing a small, Japanese HF ham rig for the RV. I may just pull the trigger on that purchase too
Yes, Florida. I never had to make an appointment before, but things have changed since my last visit there. they tell me, "service is very fast once you show up for your appointment", but appointments are >1 month out. They do still take walk-ins, but you may be there all day.
As the band, Primus put it, "How do I spell trouble? I spell it DMV... (etc)"

Depends on the County. Smaller Counties have nowhere near the backup or wait as medium or large counties.

A few weeks ago we were visiting my wife's mother in Volusia County near Deland. She had her registration renewal for her car and asked if we could stop at the DMV to take care of it. Two hours later we finally got out of there. Between our cars, RV, boat and trailers we have about half a dozen registrations to renew each year. Never spent more that 30 minutes in Columbia count or 15 minutes in Union county. And no, you don't have to go to the DMV in the County you reside in.