Battery Disconnect

[dogpa]

Looking for recommendations for a battery disconnect switch to use on tow vehicle. Appreciate all input.

 

[ducksface]

https://www.amazon.com/RVBOATPAT-Ba...2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRm&psc=1

Just a way to be able to double check yourself from the cab instead of in the rain.

I have one around here somewhere. My gator didn't like it and i have no use for it elsewhere. The linked one is a better idea than the one I bought.

I think these would maybe setup on echo/Alexa through the Bond Hub.
'Echo, disconnect towed'.
'Ok'.
Do it from rv cab or house or the dive boat while in Cabo.

 

[CactusJuice]

Looking for recommendations for a battery disconnect switch to use on tow vehicle. Appreciate all input.

You mean like the vehicle you are towing behind? If so, I use a Roadmaster 766 disconnect switch. I've had it for two years and it has never given me any trouble. It's a bit pricey, though. A 10mm wrench is much cheaper, but if you want push button convenience it's the way to go.

 

[dogpa]

Yes for the road. Did you get the Roadmaster switch on Amazon? I am thinking of going Roadmaster bar and plate as well.

 

[CactusJuice]

Yes for the road. Did you get the Roadmaster switch on Amazon? I am thinking of going Roadmaster bar and plate as well.

Yes. Amazon. I'd give you a link, but if you search Roadmaster 766 battery disconnect, it comes up.

I saw some of the ones posted here but know that quality latching solenoids are not cheap. I don't see how they could make a dependable product for like $35.

However you go, I can vouch for the quality and reliability of the RM766 over the two years I have been using it. That said, the RM766 seems overpriced. But you are probably seeing that everything associated with operating an RV is that way.

 

[dogpa]

Cactus I found it and you are right probably overpriced but looks like good quality and reviews I have read seem to justify it. Thanks All for input.

 

[simidrm]

Why not run a charge wire from the motorhome back to your towed vehicle, especially if your using a brake controller in the toad?

 

[dogpa]

Was giingbtoninstallbthe battery disconnect to not run the miles up in road according to manufacturer.

 

[dkoldman]

Was giingbtoninstallbthe battery disconnect to not run the miles up in road according to manufacturer.

I was gonna avoid this thread because I believe you question got answered, but this comment raised an eyebrow. Then I see where you say "appreciate all input"

Not sure what type of vehicle you plan tow, but if done right you should NOT need a disconnect switch nor should it accumulate miles.

So with only half the story, I agree with poster above because you should add a charge line. May even be cheaper than add a disconnect switch, but it may not be about the money but what you wish to accomplish.

My towed would be seriously damage if battery was disconnected. i.e. i still have power steering activated when in tow neutral mode. No miles at all while being towed, and it is all controlled by the computer.

 

[dogpa]

After research GMC(canyon road) says battery needs to be disconnected so was initially asking for recommendations for best one. Will also have brake system installed but sorry if previous posts were confusing or half told. But again I appreciate the input.

 

[dkoldman]

After research GMC(canyon road) says battery needs to be disconnected so was initially asking for recommendations for best one. Will also have brake system installed but sorry if previous posts were confusing or half told. But again I appreciate the input.

So if you disconnect your battery, how do you plan to power your braking system?

I installed a dedicated receptacle for my braking system near my left foot so it was out of the way. All the nearby OEM outlets would time out. The above is another reason why a charge line was required.

 

[CactusJuice]

After research GMC(canyon road) says battery needs to be disconnected so was initially asking for recommendations for best one. Will also have brake system installed but sorry if previous posts were confusing or half told. But again I appreciate the input.

I tow a GMC Canyon as well and you must disconnect the power. It's not for the miles, but because when the key is in the "on" position so that steering wheel lock is off, the electric steering box is energized. Towing it with the electric steering energized will wreck the steering gear.

I use a Ready Brake tow bar so don't need electric power for a unit in the truck when towing. But because the RM766 breaks the positive side of the battery, you still have power available. The battery is isolated from the vehicle when switched off but you can still have things run off it directly. You can add a charge line from your RV as well if you need one. *Note: Just connect it to the battery +/-. Roadmaster also sells a charge line kit!

 

[dogpa]

Where did you get the Ready Brake Tow bar? And what base plate did you use?

 

[Grumpy Grampa]

Roadmaster.

 

[CactusJuice]

Where did you get the Ready Brake Tow bar? And what base plate did you use?

I have base plate from etrailer.com. It's an etrailer branded Demco plate with removable connectors (nothing sticks out) for about $100 less than the demco plate. It's pretty easy to install (though all of them require some effort to remove the front fascia).

I have had the tow bar for so long I don't remember where I got it. But the manufacturer is NSA RV Products and they are online. It's a Ready Brute Elite.

Caveats and suggestions:

1. The Ready Brake saves money and that was my primary concern. It is, however, something of a pain to set up initially as one must run a cable from the front of the vehicle to the firewall near the brake. Not hard but it requires getting dirty and some bending, stretching etc.

2. You supposedly need a breakaway and they (NSA) have that too. I went about 15 years before I finally got around to adding that. It is also a cable that has to go to the brake pedal area. Easier to do though.

3. You end up worrying if something did not release and your brakes are dragging. While this has never happened to me, NSA has a connector on the tow bar where you can affix a wire to a warning light in the RV cab. It requires stringing the wire under the RV though (ugh). Another approach is to use a little gizmo from Roadmaster (again!) Roadmaster 759530B. It's on Amazon. You can also use this with any brake system you have not just the NSA. I found it to be useful and reliable but every once in a while (on bad roads) it malfunctions in one way or another and you have to turn it off and on to reset the electronics on it. Otherwise, OK.

4. Your baseplate will connect down by where the tow hooks are. This is really low on the Canyon, so you are gonna need a drop hitch of about 6 inches to level it up.

5. You need a way to deal with the taillights that have no power. Curt makes a harness that is totally plug and play and I HIGHLY recommend using this instead of messing around with other methods that require you to cut wires to install diodes. They sell these on Amazon. Mine is a 2020 and it uses Curt 58910.

Finally, if money were no object, I would not use the Ready Brake. It works but the install is a pain and you can't move it to your next vehicle. You can, but have to install a cable (and breakaway) in the new one. I have considered replacing it with the RVi Brake 3 system.

 

[dkoldman]

Finally, if money were no object, I would not use the Ready Brake. It works but the install is a pain and you can't move it to your next vehicle. You can, but have to install a cable (and breakaway) in the new one. I have considered replacing it with the RVi Brake 3 system.

Good stuff...

I got lucky with my RVi3 Brake Purchase. It might give you an idea to save some money. I found what I thought was a really good deal on a used on ebay. I got it for next to nothing. When I received it, it looked brand new but it did now work. Would not even power on. The seller felt bad and offered a full refund and was going to pay for the return shipping. She said she was selling for someone else. I chose to believe her; so I call RVi. They told me for $200 they would refurbish the entire unit I offered the seller $50 who was just happy to be getting some money versus paying me to return, and she would then have to throw away.

She accepted; so I got mine newly refurbished for $250, now it did not come with a warranty because RVi only warranty for the original owner. It would have only been one year. Sometimes you havre to roll the dice. Today, I swear by that RVi portable braking system. I have the RVi command center, RVi breakaway. I made my own Charge Line and as stated above I added my own dedicated receptacle. I had a professional do my tails lights, Roadmaster base plates and roadmaster towbar. Works great

FWIW:
I do fine it interesting about power steering for Grand Canyon. My Navigator is just the opposite. I think it is the power steering that would otherwise be main drain on my battery if not for the charge line. This stuff is all electronic these days. I have to simply put my menu in Tow Neutral mode with a few steps and it sets everything automatically for me. Don't even need the fob in vehicle. Because of the RVi braking, the RV stops easier when the towed is back there, by contrast when I pull my boat with SUV, I always get pushed.


My home made charge line is circled.

 

[16ACE27]

Where did you get the Ready Brake Tow bar? And what base plate did you use?

Late to this thread but two things:

1 - the battery disconnect has not connection to the rest of the towing equipment - no need to get all Roadmaster or all Ready Brake.

2 - I installed the following disconnect on our 2020 Colorado. Disconnects the battery as required but also provides a powered line for the braking system. Has worked perfectly for over 4 years.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N8IR5E/

 

[darrenbellouny]

Roadmaster 766

Used the Roadmaster 766 on my Buick Envista. One button disconnect.

ROADMASTER 766 Battery Disconnect, Black

Amazon (etrailer sells as well)
https://a.co/d/3we7cVM

 

[phalexander]

You mean like the vehicle you are towing behind? If so, I use a Roadmaster 766 disconnect switch. I've had it for two years and it has never given me any trouble. It's a bit pricey, though. A 10mm wrench is much cheaper, but if you want push button convenience it's the way to go.

Me too. Easy to install but the convenience of pushing a button to disconnect is worth it! It is not clear that the OP means the towed vehicle but we’re supposing so.

 

[dogpa]

Yes it is the vehicle being towed I was referring to and appreciate all of the input as setting up the toad with brakes is something new to our operation and then GMC throws in electric power steering.