Best Lithium Values based on Capacity, Size & BMS Features

I’m curious where your motorhome’s generator fits in on what you’re doing to get by through outage? Sounds like there may be another generator running.

Also curious how much power your fridge consumes. Sounds like you have residential which often average 1 to 2 kWh per day.

Hope you get power back soon. I was without power for an entire week recently. Generator, even very small one, was a blessing.

If the predictions stay true the storm is supposed to just sit on top of Nashville.

We were completely out of the rain at 1:30 this morning but 99% of our county is without power. Lotsa trees and power lines down, we just got 15 gallons of gas at the only nearby gas station with a generator. Nothing but small to medium branched down around us but I can hear the chainsaws going on the next street over = musta had a big tree go down.

Only 2.5" of rain at our house this time around.

I expect we'll be without grid power for at least several days. Good thing I have the option of 3 stand-alone generators; a Honda 2K, a Yamaha 2.8K, and a 7K/240 VAC. Right now the Honda is powering the house - as long as I don't start any big loads it runs on ECO powering lights and fridge/freezers.

Of course I also have the 4K in the MH on the driveway. But I can only get 15 amps out of it to the house. The Honda can handle 13.3 amps so that's the generator of choice for "maintenance" loads.

See my post above for generator backups.

Right now I'm running the 2.8K Yamaha inverter-generator during the day with an extension cord to the next door neighbor's house for his fridge/freezer/fan lights as well as powering our house with it for the same items. We have a 12K BTU A/C in the bedroom which we can barely add to the load until dark. We usually start it late afternoon and leave the bedroom door open and close all other rooms except the great room/kitchen and it manages to keep us in the 80 to 82 range,

As it gets dark we switch to the 7K generator to accomodate more lights and ensure I'm not going to have to get up in the middle of the night to reset the Yamaha if it trips on overload while cycling the A/C compressor.

The Honda is at the neighbor's across the street for extension cord power to their fridge and freezer and lights/fans.

The MH generator is the final backup, usually only needed if we get low on gas and can't find an open station. In that case we move into the MH and run an extension cord to the Fridge and freeze in the house.

See this thread about my Fridge:

https://www.thorforums.com/forums/f4/residential-fridge-energy-usage-36795.html
 
See my post above for generator backups.

……cut…..

See this thread about my Fridge:

https://www.thorforums.com/forums/f4/residential-fridge-energy-usage-36795.html

Thanks, appreciate clarification and added information. That compact residential fridge is incredibly efficient, especially for the price. My home fridge is old, and when it finally dies hope to replace with much higher efficiency. Even though I need it to be larger than yours, anything close to your energy consumption would be great, especially if powered from batteries after hurricanes.
 
I forgot to mention that our tap water is till running and our ClearWave Fiber internet has not missed a beat.

So other than pouring gas in generators we are pretty much normal. Unfortunately 83% of the electric customers in our county are without right now.
 
Well, experiment aborted. We jus had grid power restored so the battery bank is now being charged by the converter. It should be fully charged in the morning, not gonna bother to check on it tonight.

As a side note: our full size crock pot (which we used to make dinner today) only draws 140 watts.
 
Well, experiment aborted. We jus had grid power restored so the battery bank is now being charged by the converter. It should be fully charged in the morning, not gonna bother to check on it tonight.

As a side note: our full size crock pot (which we used to make dinner today) only draws 140 watts.

ACE we need you. Stay safe.
You are one of a link.
Picture link of crock pot.
I cook 100%
:)
 
Well, experiment aborted. We jus had grid power restored so the battery bank is now being charged by the converter. It should be fully charged in the morning, not gonna bother to check on it tonight.

As a side note: our full size crock pot (which we used to make dinner today) only draws 140 watts.


Cool you got juice back on!
 
Thanks, appreciate clarification and added information. That compact residential fridge is incredibly efficient, especially for the price. My home fridge is old, and when it finally dies hope to replace with much higher efficiency. Even though I need it to be larger than yours, anything close to your energy consumption would be great, especially if powered from batteries after hurricanes.

Just yesterday I was in the motorhome playing around with loads getting ready for our week long dry camping at the end of October. I monitored things with the Victron shunt and my cellphone. We have a residential frig installed by Thor that runs on the 2000 watt inverter, also installed by Thor. Judging by reading the shunt with the frig running and then off the frig is drawing about 5 amps from the battery bank when the compressor is running. That is lower than I expected. I can see making up that load during the day with solar. In fact that motivated me to order two more 200 watt panels and another Victron MPPT charger. That will give me a total of 700 watts of solar. Hopefully we will get some sunlight while we camp in the monutains.

I did learn that we need to put the Blue Sea in manual and disconnect the chassis battery while dry camping.
 
Just yesterday I was in the motorhome playing around with loads getting ready for our week long dry camping at the end of October. I monitored things with the Victron shunt and my cellphone. We have a residential frig installed by Thor that runs on the 2000 watt inverter, also installed by Thor. Judging by reading the shunt with the frig running and then off the frig is drawing about 5 amps from the battery bank when the compressor is running. That is lower than I expected. I can see making up that load during the day with solar. In fact that motivated me to order two more 200 watt panels and another Victron MPPT charger. That will give me a total of 700 watts of solar. Hopefully we will get some sunlight while we camp in the monutains.

I did learn that we need to put the Blue Sea in manual and disconnect the chassis battery while dry camping.

5 Amps or around 60 Watts is really good too.

When I was without power for a week after Beryl in July, I used a kilowatt meter between generator and house to get an idea of how much power I was using, and what contributed most to loads. I had connected my 1,800/2,200 Watt inverter generator to entire house, and could power all 120 Volt circuits — fridge, LED lights, ceiling fans, alarm, router, TVs, etc.

As expected my old fridge used the most energy overall, though compact microwave and coffee maker used much more power but only for a few minutes per day. What was most surprising was that when I opened fridge or freezer door, the generator sound would change considerably. I never thought about light bulbs in fridge and freezer using +/- 120 Watts per section. When connected to grid who cares about 2 X 60 Watt light bulbs if only used a few seconds per day, but when power is limited, those are the kind of loads that add up. ;)

By the way, total load without microwave or coffee maker fluctuated between 300 ~ 600 Watts, sometimes a little lower. By end of week I almost ran out of gasoline, which made me think about adding some solar with batteries for hurricane emergencies. Either that or store more gas.
 
5 Amps or around 60 Watts is really good too.

When I was without power for a week after Beryl in July, I used a kilowatt meter between generator and house to get an idea of how much power I was using, and what contributed most to loads. I had connected my 1,800/2,200 Watt inverter generator to entire house, and could power all 120 Volt circuits — fridge, LED lights, ceiling fans, alarm, router, TVs, etc.

As expected my old fridge used the most energy overall, though compact microwave and coffee maker used much more power but only for a few minutes per day. What was most surprising was that when I opened fridge or freezer door, the generator sound would change considerably. I never thought about light bulbs in fridge and freezer using +/- 120 Watts per section. When connected to grid who cares about 2 X 60 Watt light bulbs if only used a few seconds per day, but when power is limited, those are the kind of loads that add up. ;)

By the way, total load without microwave or coffee maker fluctuated between 300 ~ 600 Watts, sometimes a little lower. By end of week I almost ran out of gasoline, which made me think about adding some solar with batteries for hurricane emergencies. Either that or store more gas.

My new 2200 watt inverter came with 2 displays and I added a 3rd that is wireless to carry into house but it is show power being consumed through the Inverter. It also shows the input and output power which is just awesome. Additionally and I am still playing with the Victron Orion XS, but it will show the net total current & power being drawn and add added real time.

Most times I see us using about 260 watts and a lot less if I put the fridge on Propane.

The ability to see calculated hours remaining is just awesome feature if the Victron SmartShunt. We were tailgating yesterday, and I had everything running off the batteries with no fear. So far based on real world just doing what I normally do, I have yet to see the real SOC go below 95% no solar, and I can't even see a need down the road unless I am forced store RV someplace with no SP. Between running the engine, SP or forced need for Genny due to ACs, I stay fully charged.

Note: Since my new system and short AC temp requirements, I have yet to have my AGS auto start for batteries. Over time, I may find that feature useless with the Lithium, as I have effectively tripled my available capacity.
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot 2024-06-24 181114.png
    Screenshot 2024-06-24 181114.png
    77.7 KB · Views: 20
Last edited:
My new 2200 watt inverter came with 2 displays and I added a 3rd that is wireless to carry into house but it is show power being consumed through the Inverter. It also shows the input and output power which is just awesome. Additionally and I am still playing with the Victron Orion XS, but it will show the net total current & power being drawn and add added real time.

Most times I see us using about 260 watts and a lot less if I put the fridge on Propane.

The ability to see calculated hours remaining is just awesome feature if the Victron SmartShunt. We were tailgating yesterday, and I had everything running off the batteries with no fear. So far based on real world just doing what I normally do, I have yet to see the real SOC go below 95% no solar, and I can't even see a need down the road unless I am forced store RV someplace with no SP. Between running the engine, SP or forced need for Genny due to ACs, I stay fully charged.

Note: Since my new system and short AC temp requirements, I have yet to have my AGS auto start for batteries. Over time, I may find that feature useless with the Lithium, as I have effectively tripled my available capacity.

Great technical update.
You are slowing convinced us that our next rig maybe lithium from factory with a generator for AC or rather somehow use the gas system for AC & NO generator
 
5 Amps or around 60 Watts is really good too.

When I was without power for a week after Beryl in July, I used a kilowatt meter between generator and house to get an idea of how much power I was using, and what contributed most to loads. I had connected my 1,800/2,200 Watt inverter generator to entire house, and could power all 120 Volt circuits — fridge, LED lights, ceiling fans, alarm, router, TVs, etc.

As expected my old fridge used the most energy overall, though compact microwave and coffee maker used much more power but only for a few minutes per day. What was most surprising was that when I opened fridge or freezer door, the generator sound would change considerably. I never thought about light bulbs in fridge and freezer using +/- 120 Watts per section. When connected to grid who cares about 2 X 60 Watt light bulbs if only used a few seconds per day, but when power is limited, those are the kind of loads that add up. ;)

By the way, total load without microwave or coffee maker fluctuated between 300 ~ 600 Watts, sometimes a little lower. By end of week I almost ran out of gasoline, which made me think about adding some solar with batteries for hurricane emergencies. Either that or store more gas.


One thing we did years ago was toss every single incandescent bulb in our home and replace with LEDs. Most use 1/10 the energy and really makes a difference especially in limited power applications like RVs. Most folks don't think about the ones in refrigerators and freezers. Easy energy fix.
 
Great technical update.
You are slowing convinced us that our next rig maybe lithium from factory with a generator for AC or rather somehow use the gas system for AC & NO generator

Lots of misinformation floating around about Lithiums in RVs. I believe it is worsen by some that are technical living on the bleeding edge that spin some technicality aspect to justify there incredible ridicules expense in the name to crow they are green. Sometimes they forget the basic power needs.

My hot Lithium opinions.

1. You must have a Generator so that you may have AC 24/7 when needed upon demand. Until they batteries that can run both of by ACs for 3 days non stop, I ain't trying to listen. I certainly will NOT buy an RV that is all Electric but 2 - 6 hours may be max with ACs. That is going backwards.

2. You should be working on plan over next 12-18 months that will allow you to transition to Lithium. Your vMax tanks will likely start to show signs of age by then.

3. It is very easy to transition to Lithium and some of the steps are optional. If I were you, I would plan around some time you may be in Montana next year or around your personal Tech. Buy a Li-BIM when you see one on sale, out in the RV for future. Buy a Lithium Battery, at least 300ah and with a footprint similar in size or smaller as the NewtiPower in this thread. Pay your Tech to install and you will notice immediate difference. You can go 3 times as long as the VMax tanks. Only one battery needed.
Note: Your solar controller may not be as effective nor your existing converter

I didn't have Solar so my conversion to Lithium had no impact. I did replace my Converter. I didn't have too, but I have always been a get the maximum AH capacity as possible to getting special converter was non issue. My old converter was years old, plus my new one came with a remote. I like the visuals to se what is going on.

I really needed the Virtron Orion XS DC2DC, but you will not unless you just want fancy. If you do the LI-BIM thing don't look back for DC2DC.

Similarly the SmartShunt is a RV TextToy. You don't need, but if you want to talk educated with the Big Dogs like The ACE & Mr. NODINE you will have exact SOC, exact AHs and Power Consumption data. :LOL: Before we laugh too hard, I see them like Doctors, the better information you provide your Doctor, the better they can help you. In that sense; when they help solve one problem it has paid for itself :rolleyes:
 
Interesting, looks like 2 different versions of the battery. One is slightly bigger but $410 w coupon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CMZDBYZ...TTJ2D903&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it


This one is a tad bigger.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BXSSHW5...1TTJ2D903&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1

When I click on the one that you have link for that is smaller, it shows to be the one I bought last August.

The other that is a tad larger with the better price really does look to be the same battery. I wonder if they have just corrected the exact dimensions?

A week or two ago I was talking with them about the dimensions because I was trying to see if I could get a 2nd one to fit in my battery compartment. I pointed out to them that handles took up valuable space. I was wanting to to take my dremel tool and shear off the handles but they advise not to. I concluded that even when cut off two would not fit so I just left it alone. 300ah appears to me more than I will ever need, but so far I really like that battery.

I figure that if I wait they will continue to get smaller and maybe the next battery will be 600ah and fit in the compartment? One physical house battery may be all I ever need from here on out.

You may send them the question via Amazon. Knowing them if you ask, you can buy the cheap one send the Order number and they ship you the compact one if it really is smaller which I doubt. Good luck
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot 2024-12-19 135813.jpg
    Screenshot 2024-12-19 135813.jpg
    85.9 KB · Views: 15
I wonder if this is the same battery but with a different label that ACE and DKOLDMAN purchased last August.


Thinking of dropping in one of these to start. My 2 napa 8240 N's are toast.

I have xantrex 1000 pro that should run my resmed airsense11 with humidity on CPAP (~50 watts) when boondocking overnight. However I bought the 12v DC plug for the CPAP and installed a 12v outlet + usb next to the bed since it should be more efficient coming direct from battery and not going through inverter.

I have a BM-160 now, at some point I will install this bim-225 before battery 2 is purchased down the road.


Any of my DC circuit breakers need upgrading from 100amp when dropping in the second battery in the future?
 
I forgot to mention that our tap water is till running and our ClearWave Fiber internet has not missed a beat.

So other than pouring gas in generators we are pretty much normal. Unfortunately 83% of the electric customers in our county are without right now.

Wow, that's alot of down homes!
Glad we canceled month in Pensacola and went to Sigsbee.
 
I wonder if this is the same battery but with a different label that ACE and DKOLDMAN purchased last August.


Thinking of dropping in one of these to start. My 2 napa 8240 N's are toast.

I have xantrex 1000 pro that should run my resmed airsense11 with humidity on CPAP (~50 watts) when boondocking overnight. However I bought the 12v DC plug for the CPAP and installed a 12v outlet + usb next to the bed since it should be more efficient coming direct from battery and not going through inverter.

I have a BM-160 now, at some point I will install this bim-225 before battery 2 is purchased down the road.


Any of my DC circuit breakers need upgrading from 100amp when dropping in the second battery in the future?
This video pretty much confirms your suspicion:

 
I've made comments about this before regarding everything from solar panels, solar charge controllers, batteries, inverters... you name it. This isn't a new concept. All it takes is a business plan and some cash. No manufacturing plant or employees needed.

Just book a flight to Shenzhen and make a deal. There's thousands of Chinese manufacturers happy to sell you a pre-made product... the EXACT SAME product a dozen other American "entrepreneurs" are buying and reselling. Just arrange for them to silk screen your own company name and logo on it and Voilà... you're in business!

Moral to the story... if two (or more) products look eerily similar, shop by price.

.
 

Try RV LIFE Pro Free for 7 Days

  • New Ad-Free experience on this RV LIFE Community.
  • Plan the best RV Safe travel with RV LIFE Trip Wizard.
  • Navigate with our RV Safe GPS mobile app.
  • and much more...
Try RV LIFE Pro Today
Back
Top