Can I upgrade to a hard panel on top of a pop top?

[MichaelC-THOR]

I have a 2022 Thor Sequence with a pop top. It comes with a pretty wussy solar panel that doesn't do much. I've been in talks with a solar guy about upgrading the controller and then putting a hard panel on top. It would have to be bolted in which means there may be some bolts inside that protrude about a half inch. Has anyone done something like this? My biggest concern is that the panel will weigh about 30 pounds, the pop top isn't designed to have 30 lbs on top of it. He said we could also upgrade the gas springs for more powerful ones. Is this a good idea? I really want better solar but I don't want to ruin my pop top.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/d1nYkDe1V6xZL9zKA

 

[Bob Nodine]

I have a 2022 Thor Sequence with a pop top. It comes with a pretty wussy solar panel that doesn't do much. I've been in talks with a solar guy about upgrading the controller and then putting a hard panel on top. It would have to be bolted in which means there may be some bolts inside that protrude about a half inch. Has anyone done something like this? My biggest concern is that the panel will weigh about 30 pounds, the pop top isn't designed to have 30 lbs on top of it. He said we could also upgrade the gas springs for more powerful ones. Is this a good idea? I really want better solar but I don't want to ruin my pop top.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/d1nYkDe1V6xZL9zKA

Just looking at your photo I would consider using custom designed cross supports that connect to the roof on either side of the pop top. This would be similar to luggage carrier cross braces on an automobile or van roof. You could then support the solar panel on the cross braces. You might even do a search for off the shelf roof top carrier systems that you could modify for your application.

 

[Mark54]

Adding solar to pop-top

I have a 2022 Thor Sequence with a pop top. It comes with a pretty wussy solar panel that doesn't do much. I've been in talks with a solar guy about upgrading the controller and then putting a hard panel on top. It would have to be bolted in which means there may be some bolts inside that protrude about a half inch. Has anyone done something like this? My biggest concern is that the panel will weigh about 30 pounds, the pop top isn't designed to have 30 lbs on top of it. He said we could also upgrade the gas springs for more powerful ones. Is this a good idea? I really want better solar but I don't want to ruin my pop top.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/d1nYkDe1V6xZL9zKA

Thule and Yakima both make tracks not unlike what the Tellaro/Sequence hard tops have for the solar panels, and I would use stainless bolts, with the heads under the pop top.

Tracks:
https://www.etrailer.com/Roof-Rack/...8411&msclkid=d6643e8348531c1267095997b04a27bb

The rails can be bedded with butyl tape fr waterproofing, and then use angle brackets to attach the new panels. I got nicer ones from Amazon when I added my 2nd panel. PM me for more details- I posted earlier in another post from a pop-topper with the same question.
Brackets:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TTYW02E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I would look at Renogy panels, and try to get 400W up there- measure and see what will fit. If you use the rails, you can have them turned sideways and let hang over the pop-top edges. No rules here. Then run wires thru roof gland at the back. Just drill the frames for the centers of the new tracks and attach the brackets.

T-bolts:
https://www.amazon.com/Yakima-Platf...ule+track+hardware&qid=1729427719&sr=8-1&th=1

As for struts- just replace the existing ones with heavier weight ones, or add a second set somewhere- you'll have to estimate what you need- make them so you can pull it back down without hanging off the thing as I had to do in my 20AT...

 

[ducksface]

Did he say why a hard panel instead of a flexible panel?

 

[MCP-THOR]

I have a 2022 Thor Sequence with a pop top. It comes with a pretty wussy solar panel that doesn't do much. I've been in talks with a solar guy about upgrading the controller and then putting a hard panel on top. It would have to be bolted in which means there may be some bolts inside that protrude about a half inch. Has anyone done something like this? My biggest concern is that the panel will weigh about 30 pounds, the pop top isn't designed to have 30 lbs on top of it. He said we could also upgrade the gas springs for more powerful ones. Is this a good idea? I really want better solar but I don't want to ruin my pop top.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/d1nYkDe1V6xZL9zKA

Have you considered staying with flexible panels. Perhaps you have room for 3 panels if you arrange them transverse. Potentially tripling your capacity. And you wouldn’t need to mess with new racks, penetrations, or the pop top. You would probably still need to upgrade the controller if it’s only the 10 instead of the 30 mppt. Just a thought.

 

[16ACE27]

I have a 2022 Thor Sequence with a pop top. It comes with a pretty wussy solar panel that doesn't do much. I've been in talks with a solar guy about upgrading the controller and then putting a hard panel on top. It would have to be bolted in which means there may be some bolts inside that protrude about a half inch. Has anyone done something like this? My biggest concern is that the panel will weigh about 30 pounds, the pop top isn't designed to have 30 lbs on top of it. He said we could also upgrade the gas springs for more powerful ones. Is this a good idea? I really want better solar but I don't want to ruin my pop top.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/d1nYkDe1V6xZL9zKA

Listen to Marks ideas.

You don't have to buy $180 tracks to spread the weight of the solar panel, you can buy 1"x1"x8' square aluminum tubing from the big box store, and, as he said, put the bolt heads inside and the nuts outside.

 

[ducksface]

https://www.amazon.com/Coarse-Threa...2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRm&psc=1

Elevator bolts aren't too well known.
I use them on soft things like the lid the op is modifying.

BIG washers are an alternative.
But
I think the op has hired this job out so she won't be doing any mods herself.

I do question why he's selling her raised hard panels that might sound like the peacocks from hell at speed with a cross wind. Might not.

Signed,
Dude you shoulda heard my roof rack before I modified it

 

[MichaelC-THOR]

Have you considered staying with flexible panels. Perhaps you have room for 3 panels if you arrange them transverse. Potentially tripling your capacity. And you wouldn’t need to mess with new racks, penetrations, or the pop top. You would probably still need to upgrade the controller if it’s only the 10 instead of the 30 mppt. Just a thought.

That sounds great! that's actually what I had asked for. My solar guy said that flexible solar panels don't work very well, especially in the heat. This matches my experience since I get almost nothing from the current panel especially when it's warm outside. So I was thinking he must be right about that. But, maybe there are higher quality flexible panels or better ways of installing them? I'm definitely open to that. I think I'll read more about that and exhaust that possibility before considering some of these other ideas

 

[ducksface]

Solar panels are soon to be give away prices like tvs are.
They no longer need to be a forever type purchase.
If the flexs go bad, and they will, they'll be cheap and easy to replace 10 years from now IF you still own the rv.

The pic is absolutely not the best choice for a panel.
But it is indicative of where prices are going.

I bought it to toss on the dash...and misthought the dimensions.
So, it'll go on the roof of the side x side to replace the little 2a trickle solar or the hood of the zr2(or something. Hell, I don't know where I'll put it.)

 

[Mark54]

Listen to Marks ideas.

You don't have to buy $180 tracks to spread the weight of the solar panel, you can buy 1"x1"x8' square aluminum tubing from the big box store, and, as he said, put the bolt heads inside and the nuts outside.

I like that a lot and also the idea of elevator bolts!! (also used on garage door hinges)
The other alternative to square aluminum tube is c-channel often used for solar panel field or roof installation- but costs more than the Thule/Yakima tracks.

I would never use flex panels unless I could fit 400W and secure the edges and center to the pop-top. Too many variables with that plastic surface.

I did apply flex panels to my Rialta, but it had a metal roof, and I used VHB tape and Eternabond on the edges. Still on there after years. See pdf on how I did that mod.

 

[Mark54]

Did he say why a hard panel instead of a flexible panel?

The 20AT has one 190W flex panel on the pop-top. Some have flown off due to TMC's typical lack of QC... :-(

 

[ducksface]

Hard panels just seems unreasonable considering the construction needed vs mark's eternabond and flex panel solution.

If the solar guy didn't think of the eternabond...
I'd find a new guy unless he has a specific reason to not use the eternabond(and we need to know that reason for for the info bank on the forum)

 

[16ACE27]

That sounds great! that's actually what I had asked for. My solar guy said that flexible solar panels don't work very well, especially in the heat. This matches my experience since I get almost nothing from the current panel especially when it's warm outside. So I was thinking he must be right about that. But, maybe there are higher quality flexible panels or better ways of installing them? I'm definitely open to that. I think I'll read more about that and exhaust that possibility before considering some of these other ideas

They also short circuit and burn up. Check YouTube videos.

 

[MichaelC-THOR]

They also short circuit and burn up. Check YouTube videos.

That's not good... But again, isn't the quality of the panel and the way it's installed a factor here? I think a lot of people are getting flex panels to save money. I'd be willing to pay more for good ones if it means I don't have to re-engineer my pop top or deal with putting panels to the side just to put it up, etc

 

[Bob Nodine]

That sounds great! that's actually what I had asked for. My solar guy said that flexible solar panels don't work very well, especially in the heat. This matches my experience since I get almost nothing from the current panel especially when it's warm outside. So I was thinking he must be right about that. But, maybe there are higher quality flexible panels or better ways of installing them? I'm definitely open to that. I think I'll read more about that and exhaust that possibility before considering some of these other ideas

Solar panels de-rate and loose capacity as they heat up. Seems like a catch-22 since they must be used in the sun but it is what it is. That is why hard panels are mounted slightly above the surface to allow air flow underneath the panels.

 

[Chateau_Nomad]

 

[ducksface]

i have to think the chances of those panels going bad are all but ensured
However
They're a cheap easy fix IF they go bad during my ownership.
Vs
Some handyman type guy building a rack for 12 or so hours at whatever cost of materials and labor that comes to.

I'd chance them lasting through my ownership
Or
Risk having to peel them off and spending another $400 years from now.

I THINK
You'd just cut the eternabond at the panel edge and reapply right over the roof part of the eterna bond.
We'll say 2hours of self labor.

 

[Vickers]

I have the exact same solar panel on my early 2022 pop top 20L. I bought mine used but I don't believe I have ever seen t work in all the time I have owned it. Thank you all for the great conversation on panel considerations.

 

[Mark54]

I have the exact same solar panel on my early 2022 pop top 20L. I bought mine used but I don't believe I have ever seen t work in all the time I have owned it. Thank you all for the great conversation on panel considerations.

There is also a 20A inline fuse up front, pass. bed compartment, behind the masterswitch. Remove the bed deck and find to make sure it is ok.

As mentioned, I replaced that and added another breaker switch from Blue Sea- can both be 20A or 30A. Then you can shut the system down anytime you need- storage for example.

Read your solar controller manual to see what they recommend for fuse size.

I later changed out the PWM solar controller (74% efficient) to an MPPT one (90+% efficient) and re-did the panel to swing out for access to fuses and tank drain!

(Not sure who could open or close that drain valve thru that tiny door!)

I can also access the 3 fuses that were hard to reach before- the 1A BMPro, and the 5A Balmar.

When the Balmar flashes- I can now open the door and reset it by pulling the 5A fuse! Works every time.
I also added a Victron solar gauge and app so i can use my phone to see what that is doing.
Apps on phone now-
RVMaster (BMPro functions),
SeeLevel (new sensors added to tanks- readout and switches on back wall),
Balmar (w/ gateway added, for SOC, SOH, and also tells me the UHG is working)
Victron Connect (solar) on MPPT.

I can use all at the driver's seat!

 

[ducksface]

When the Balmar flashes- I can now open the door and reset it by pulling the 5A fuse! Works every time.
I can use all at the driver's seat!

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=autmotve...circuit+breaker+fuse,aps,186&ref=nb_sb_noss_1

Consider the automatic reset breaker or the push button breaker fuse.

Just one step easier with the push button or one step eliminated with the auto reset.

Run an extension line from the fuse housing, install the push button breaker where it's handy to get to.
Two steps easier.