Couple more various questions- I searched for all the answers first I promise!

[pinballandvodka]

I can ask GPT but I'm a people person, god damnit.

It looks like my 2015 ACE has 70 amps available. Of which there's a 30 for the awning. I want some power back for mint bitcoin for early retirement so I'm making cuts to the electrical budget. I don't believe I have or have located an elec wiring diagram for this unit and I'm unsure if it would be accurate anyway considering what I've been seeing. So I guess the first question is, anyone have a wiring diagram for a 2015 ACE? The second question, failing the first is, is the 30 dedicated to the awning? Does it REALLY draw 30?

I'm more of an edison over westinghouse kinda guy- If I could power my house with d.c. I'd think that's cool. Anyway, I have mounds of inverters and know how to do all that, ish. I noticed this one on the ACE is 1Kwatt which I say fooey on that. I'd love go as direct current as possible- maybe solars on the roof and whatever else d.c but not bank breaking. Anyone done this? Tips? I am not doing lion, too $$$ for this poor bastard plus the wiring blah etc.

I came to this conclusion last night during an absolutely bitterly cold night last night (below 55 degrees, i had to wear socks!) and our 1500w space heater was helpful but not cutting it for everyone. It was also triggering the protection overload on a surge unit I installed so..yeah..no. Nothing else was on (microwave and tv's are gone), by the way and I was on 115v (my house). Considering 220 ain't gonna happen and I really want to stay away from propane unless I can't..any thoughts?

Thank you all

 

[ducksface]

Mining bitcoin at anything less than 10,000 watts won't even pay for a computer mouse.
If you're mining equipment is paid for and is the best available you need electric to cost .1cents, 10kw for a penny to make it feasible.
Then there's the cooling involved.

50,000kw per month will GROSS you $50,000 in TWELVE years. Now subtract equipment and electricity costs.

Be aware that the makers of the mining equipment are the ones who tell you how profitable mining is.


You're popping breakers now.

 

[pinballandvodka]

Mining bitcoin at anything less than 10,000 watts won't even pay for a computer mouse.
If you're mining equipment is paid for and is the best available you need electric to cost .1cents, 10kw for a penny to make it feasible.
Then there's the cooling involved.

You're popping breakers now.

Just joking on the BTC. I use solar for that

 

[PS89]

It looks like my 2015 ACE has 70 amps available.

Huh?

Of which there's a 30 for the awning

Double "huh"?

You should be able to get some half-assed drawing from your Thor owner's account.

Was your water heater in the coach set to electric?

 

[16ACE27]

I can ask GPT but I'm a people person, god damnit.

It looks like my 2015 ACE has 70 amps available. Of which there's a 30 for the awning. I want some power back for mint bitcoin for early retirement so I'm making cuts to the electrical budget. I don't believe I have or have located an elec wiring diagram for this unit and I'm unsure if it would be accurate anyway considering what I've been seeing. So I guess the first question is, anyone have a wiring diagram for a 2015 ACE? The second question, failing the first is, is the 30 dedicated to the awning? Does it REALLY draw 30?

I'm more of an edison over westinghouse kinda guy- If I could power my house with d.c. I'd think that's cool. Anyway, I have mounds of inverters and know how to do all that, ish. I noticed this one on the ACE is 1Kwatt which I say fooey on that. I'd love go as direct current as possible- maybe solars on the roof and whatever else d.c but not bank breaking. Anyone done this? Tips? I am not doing lion, too $$$ for this poor bastard plus the wiring blah etc.

I came to this conclusion last night during an absolutely bitterly cold night last night (below 55 degrees, i had to wear socks!) and our 1500w space heater was helpful but not cutting it for everyone. It was also triggering the protection overload on a surge unit I installed so..yeah..no. Nothing else was on (microwave and tv's are gone), by the way and I was on 115v (my house). Considering 220 ain't gonna happen and I really want to stay away from propane unless I can't..any thoughts?

Thank you all

Have you created an account on the Thor Owners Resource website with your VIN. They "may" have some "electrical" drawings in there for your ACE - but not down to the fuse level.

When you say "70 amps available" I assume you are talking DC amps? Based on fuses? Otherwise you have either a 30 amp 120 VAC shore power connection or a 50 amp 240 VAC shore power connection.

The awning usually has a 10 amp fuse (as I recall). The 30 amp fuse is generally for the slide controller(s).

RVs don't use Lion batteries. Their upgrade is LiFePO4 (LFP) batteries which are much safer and as cheap or cheaper than lead acid deep cycle batteries.

Space heaters are great for warming an RV in cooler weather but they sick up a lot of the available power in a 30 amp RV (or 15/20 amps from a house receptacle). The propane furnace provides way more heat when needed and is perfectly safe.

 

[ghnl]

I got some schematics for our 2015 ACE 30.1 from the Thor Owners Resource page. I'd call it more of a general idea of where things might be located but it is still somewhat useful.

 

[pinballandvodka]

Have you created an account on the Thor Owners Resource website with your VIN. They "may" have some "electrical" drawings in there for your ACE - but not down to the fuse level.

When you say "70 amps available" I assume you are talking DC amps? Based on fuses? Otherwise you have either a 30 amp 120 VAC shore power connection or a 50 amp 240 VAC shore power connection.

The awning usually has a 10 amp fuse (as I recall). The 30 amp fuse is generally for the slide controller(s).

RVs don't use Lion batteries. Their upgrade is LiFePO4 (LFP) batteries which are much safer and as cheap or cheaper than lead acid deep cycle batteries.

Space heaters are great for warming an RV in cooler weather but they sick up a lot of the available power in a 30 amp RV (or 15/20 amps from a house receptacle). The propane furnace provides way more heat when needed and is perfectly safe.

No but I will create one! DC amps. 30 amp /shore. The diagram on the panel door says the single 30 is for the awning but maybe it's a misprint. Slide makes way more sense (slide and awning). I didn't know that about the batteries- well, I knew the new ones were lithium but that's about it. Lithium Iron Phosphorous annnnddd my knowledge ends here.

 

[Mark54]

I can ask GPT but I'm a people person, god damnit.

It looks like my 2015 ACE has 70 amps available. Of which there's a 30 for the awning. I want some power back for mint bitcoin for early retirement so I'm making cuts to the electrical budget. I don't believe I have or have located an elec wiring diagram for this unit and I'm unsure if it would be accurate anyway considering what I've been seeing. So I guess the first question is, anyone have a wiring diagram for a 2015 ACE? The second question, failing the first is, is the 30 dedicated to the awning? Does it REALLY draw 30?

I'm more of an edison over westinghouse kinda guy- If I could power my house with d.c. I'd think that's cool. Anyway, I have mounds of inverters and know how to do all that, ish. I noticed this one on the ACE is 1Kwatt which I say fooey on that. I'd love go as direct current as possible- maybe solars on the roof and whatever else d.c but not bank breaking. Anyone done this? Tips? I am not doing lion, too $$$ for this poor bastard plus the wiring blah etc.

I came to this conclusion last night during an absolutely bitterly cold night last night (below 55 degrees, i had to wear socks!) and our 1500w space heater was helpful but not cutting it for everyone. It was also triggering the protection overload on a surge unit I installed so..yeah..no. Nothing else was on (microwave and tv's are gone), by the way and I was on 115v (my house). Considering 220 ain't gonna happen and I really want to stay away from propane unless I can't..any thoughts?

Thank you all

I work with watts.
Convert everything to watts.
Volts x Amps = watts
If watts are already labeled- then use that.
Are you plugged into a 15A or 20A outlet?
If you are plugged into a 120V, 15A circuit, you have 120x15= 1800W available.(there is no 115V any more- it's 120VAC)
Any electrical device, especially motors can use twice the watts at startup.

Heaters can use more than the rated watts on startup too- so on a 15A circuit, you can trip a breaker with a 1500W heater (1500A/120v= 12.5A btw) So if you start the heater and pulls more than 15A, then could trip the breaker.

A 20A circuit could also trip if heater exceeds the amperage /wattage as well.
What is the overload protection of the surge protector? (How many watts (or amps)?

As you say- microwave was off- good, b/c they range from 900W to 1800W. 20" LCD TVs are only about 30-50W .
To add, GFCI circuits can be problematic with RVs and can trip regardless of amperage. RVs are not 'bonded' or grounded as they sit on 4 rubber tires.
I use a TT30 outlet (30A) for my RV when at home...