CSW Inverter E03 Error Code

[dkoldman]

I have 5 year old CSW1012 Inverter. Never had an issue until today. I noticed that I am getting a E03 Error code which per manual it says the unit has sensed an overload or short circuit so it shut itself down after about 10 seconds.

However, I don't have any thing plugged into the Output? So there is no draw. My unit does not have hardwired to output. I have male receptacle plug I can simply unplug so nothing goes to my downstream inverter power supplied circuits.

I checked and I was getting 12.5vdc input to my CSW1012 Inverter.

When I try to push reset button it will not. It acts as if I have a ground fault.

What am I missing or anything else to try?

Context:

While I am just noticing this today, this issue is cause by a Memorial day weekend flat tire. The tire was banging and bent the inside compartment wall where this inverter was mounted. The impact was severe enough to jar the inverter off two of the mounting screws, but it otherwise was intact. The generator was running the entire time of changing out the flat; so I never noticed until today.

I have read some threads about a hard reset, but my manual does not say anything about hard resets? Trying not to wait until next week to call Magnum Technologies.

 

[ducksface]

My inverter WELDER internally shorted itself to its case by way of a slight jolt. It's of all but identical design to a power inverter.

Perhaps if you open it up you'll be lucky enough to find the same.
One of those cheap thin plastic bendable cutting boards slipped right in as insulation against a repeat incidence.

It was simply a matter of the internals shifting that micron or two.

 

[dkoldman]

So following your point, I took the CSW1012 completely out, being careful to put electrical tape over every wire I removed. I even took the main lead off the House battery junction behind a CNN 150 fuse. I have to be careful if Ace or that Beau fella give me what for.

Something is definitely wrong from impact on the CSW1012. While I have not opened it up (yet) I may wait on that because I believe there may be capacitors inside? I am in no rush to kill myself. At any rate as I turn the inverter over I can hear what sounds like loose nickels inside rattling around

So while I get my next steps, I decide to hook up a old Cobra 1500/3000 watt inverter that I had in SUVs when going camping with tents and boats. It powered right up and immediately told me battery was low so I turned on Generator. I could use shore power but I have had to since the trip. When batteries are adequately charged I will connect the RV's inverter circuits to the Cobra Inverter, kill the Genny and see if it powers my fridge.

My Cobra is 1500 watts vs 1000 watts from CSW. It is possible that I may be able to run my 900watt microwave with the Cobra?

Problem I may have with Cobra or any other brand is the remote. We are spoiled to turner inverter on/off from inside on wall next to genny gauges.

I am taking recommendations if I have to buy new Inverter. I think 2000 is all I need unless I just find a great deal 3000. The CSW 2012 (2000 watts) is $800. I don't think I liked my CSW1012 that much

 

[ducksface]

The only thing I dislike about my fancy xantrex is no remote, not even a physical remote.
It's three deep intoo the remote display and an intimate knowledge to turn it on and off.

Your inverter should probably have a surge capacity that's double le if its rating.
Try the microwave.
It works or it doesn't.

 

[dkoldman]

Pictures of CSW1012SW

Attached are pictures of the Inverter opened.

It looks like in addition to the impact taking out the fan, some of parts may have twisted the capacitors around the hot & common wires, but I see no spark of arcing? Replacing the fan would be straightforward, but the wiring would need the mfg and the cost may not be worth it. ( 5 year old inverter)

What is odd it works like normal, or like it should in that it had ground interrupt so no current was passing, and it gave error code of a short circuit. So it new it was broken while I did not.

If all the loose part are out, fan replaced and that input wiring is fixable, it may still work?

 

[ducksface]

It felt hurt and Interrupted itself.
When things are untwisted it probably will rethink itself and start up.
Or
This is your chance to just toss it out like I tossed out that fancy tpms system.
Pluck. It. Out.

You have a back-up that has filled it's spot, you can upgrade to the outrageous inverters like judge and I have, or you can fix this one for the sheer joy of being skeered of capacitors....

(If my inverter senses shore power of 108v where 115v should be, it borrows from the batteries to stabilize the input. If its 26 amp where 30 should be it steals from the batteries to make it 30a. Fancy stuff. Indulge yourself.
https://www.google.com/search?q=xan...S42LjMuMC4xoAe9ZA&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-serp)

 

[dkoldman]

The only thing I dislike about my fancy xantrex is no remote, not even a physical remote.
It's three deep intoo the remote display and an intimate knowledge to turn it on and off.

Your inverter should probably have a surge capacity that's double le if its rating.
Try the microwave.
It works or it doesn't.

Our microwave is currently not wired with OEM Inverter. I thought we might be pushing it on the 1000watt inverter, so I never connected it like i did with the Fridge. Additionally, I likely was assuming the microwave was 1500 watts. We have only ever needed the microwave when no shorepower, like when on the road at a rest stop to warm something up to eat. But 50% of the time the genny is already on, if not; we turn on for 10 minutes, never been an issue.

The Cobra just happens to be 1500watts and I am learning that Microwave max is 900, so we may be able to safely run microwave and watch TV. That test is coming up. I am recharging the old vMax tanks to be at 100% for this test. I switch to shorepower just to verify all else works.

It looks like the CSW Remote works a little with Cobra Inverter. Both use RJ11 connection. The CSW Remote will not turn the Cobra On or Off. But if you turn Cobra on manually for outside compartment, it lights the CSW Remote panel green. Of course if Cobra unit is off it goes back black. What I need to more into is whether it allows you to turn the cobra off manually at the inverter if the CSW Remote is physically in the ON position?

 

[dkoldman]

It felt hurt and Interrupted itself.
When things are untwisted it probably will rethink itself and start up.
Or
This is your chance to just toss it out like I tossed out that fancy tpms system.
Pluck. It. Out.

You have a back-up that has filled it's spot, you can upgrade to the outrageous inverters like judge and I have, or you can fix this one for the sheer joy of being skeered of capacitors....

(If my inverter senses shore power of 108v where 115v should be, it borrows from the batteries to stabilize the input. If its 26 amp where 30 should be it steals from the batteries to make it 30a. Fancy stuff. Indulge yourself.
https://www.google.com/search?q=xan...S42LjMuMC4xoAe9ZA&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-serp)

There is another side of this issue. While I reported this issue to Progressive, I don't plan to use the claim and pay out of pocket. I pay for a $2,500 deductible but I have $0 deductible because of my renewals over the years. They estimated $1,700 but that was before knowing of the inverter issue. They did include cost to remove and replace everything off that wall, but we did not know the inverter was not functioning.

I don't need excess, quality engineering says fitness for use. I may end up being lucky having that Cobra just sitting around. I may be able to buy some time to have my existing repaired, or find a replacement that works with my existing remote. I need to see what type of connection is on back of my existing remote. If it takes RJ11 it may be easier to buy something that comes with it's own remote and put in my wall with same RJ11 cord?

 

[ducksface]

Related kinda sorta:

I have thick steel front wheelwells from a 67 Pontiac executive.
I've been meaning to put them in the back wheelwells of the 24.1 for years now. They will protect my black tank during a blowout.

At least your blowout didn't take out your back tank.

I am motivated by your story
(Until I forget later toda...Squirrel!!)

 

[dkoldman]

Progressive and Mobil RV Tech says that it is very common. My 1st blow out on a rear dully. I got a long way to go to assess my new Goodride tires over Goodyear, but thus far they just seem quieter, smoother and certainly handle the turns a tad better with my Sumo Springs. I am 1 week in an official 2 year test. If they pass I will be a 7th one for my wheel less spare.

If people can complain about TMC Engineering, I ought to be able to throw a shout out to WBGO Engineering for putting expensive highly sensitive electronics on compartment wall in from of a Steel tire. If it blows not much you can do. But I ain't mad, it been almost 5 years. The way I read of TMC quality issues and it to be true of all RV Mfgs, I was expecting this kind of excitement every other month :whistling:

I bet an Extended warranty plan would not cover any of this. Ironically, my insurance will cover it all but my rates are too good. I can pay this out of pocket. I used insurance to get two brand new windshields from cracks. My fix is 6 brand new Goodride tires that are H Rated over G rating, can carry 500lbs more on the front tires and give me 6 mph speed increase cushion. I can't even go 6 mph faster in my RV

 

[ducksface]

When the toyhauler blew 4 tires in 3 days(a story for a campfire) I rebuilt the wheel well using rather thick aluminum diamond plate and nutserts. I could remove it ever need be, not that there would be a reason but hey, I was in there and had the tools and ability.

It turned out to get to the water pump you'd have to remove the fridge.
Not when I got down with it. Came out right through one of my removable wheel well panels.

Nutserts are like magic rivets. I installed 14 of them in my new battery bin. 1\4-20 are the nut of choice.

While you're fixing it consider what you can do to the space.


(Nutsert drawer)

 

[dkoldman]

What started out with me simply planning to remove items off that side compartment back wall to try to straighten it up, exposed a damaged Inverter based on tire impact. Through some luck and a lot of sweat, I am back in business with an Inverter I had just sitting in the garage. 6 hours of downtime, no dealers, or even no Mobile tech. While I no longer have a working remote (just indicator only), I do have more power.

This will keep me on the road to see what happens next. I am not thinking I want my CSW1012 fixed. I will see if I can find a remote that works with my 1500Watt Cobra 1st. But I may consider a very good opportunity buy a new 2000 watt inverter with remote assuming it will not work with my CSW remote.

All ideas appreciated.

 

[dkoldman]

Ok, I need help here.

Magnum Dimension just confirmed my CSW1012 is not repairable. It is about $500 to replace.

So I have questions. My existing wiring on sized 1/0 and the fuse is CNN 150 amps (Littlelton)

If I keep the Cobra 1500 watt pictured above in the RV, can I keep same wiring or fuse?

If I buy another Inverter that is say 2500 watt, can I keep same wiring and fuse?


I see a 2500 that is not CSW that I really like, but not sure if I need to rewire anything or just go with bigger fuse?

FWIW, not sure if our usage pattern will change. We had a 1000watt with 150 amps and never tripped it or blew 150 amp fuse. Biggest draw we have in RV is 900watt microwave that we rarely use without shorepower anyway.

 

[16ACE27]

Ok, I need help here.

Magnum Dimension just confirmed my CSW1012 is not repairable. It is about $500 to replace.

So I have questions. My existing wiring on sized 1/0 and the fuse is CNN 150 amps (Littlelton)

If I keep the Cobra 1500 watt pictured above in the RV, can I keep same wiring or fuse?

If I buy another Inverter that is say 2500 watt, can I keep same wiring and fuse?


I see a 2500 that is not CSW that I really like, but not sure if I need to rewire anything or just go with bigger fuse?

FWIW, not sure if our usage pattern will change. We had a 1000watt with 150 amps and never tripped it or blew 150 amp fuse. Biggest draw we have in RV is 900watt microwave that we rarely use without shorepower anyway.

150 x 13 = 2000 Watts
150 amps is what your fuse and wire are rated for.
To get a larger inverter without upgrading the wire and fuse is just throwing money away.

 

[ducksface]

I ran two 1/0 instead of one 4/0. I was wisely told on this forum that this is equal.
Can you easily run another cable next to the existing?
Fuses are cheap and can possibly/probably use the same holder.

 

[ducksface]

Here.
(Black zip ties to avoid admonishment)
When running 110a to charge the batteries, my 1/0 cables weren't so hot that you could hold them but it was very close to too hot. The 4/0 and doubled 1/0 barely makes it to 100°(a guess)

 

[dkoldman]

150 x 13 = 2000 Watts
150 amps is what your fuse and wire are rated for.
To get a larger inverter without upgrading the wire and fuse is just throwing money away.

Where does 13 come from?

Also... think of my quest from my forced predicament.

I had 1000 watt inverter and never had an issue. I don't need any more power, meaning I never tripped the 1000 watt inverter or blew the 150 amp fuse.

So over the weekend I installed a Cobra 1500 watt just because I had it in the garage, it is at least 10 years old and is working fine, but does not have a remote for inside. ( I could prolly find one for $40)

At the same time I have found a new 2500 watt inverter that is really nice with the display on inverter as well as remote, it cost half of what the OEM Magnum Dimension would cost to replace. I am favoring this option because it will bring a new look of modern technology on my wall ( the remote)

So now, I don't know what gauge wiring I would need for 2500, or upgrade of fuse? The only thing I might possibly do is wire the circuit from Microwave to be able to optionally run off the inverter, ( but this is not important).

That 1/0 Battery cable is very thick, I can't imagine needing more, but that is why I am asking. it just seems like if we use the inverter the same as we always have the wiring could be the same. I would say maybe a larger fuse, but if 150amp is max for 1/0 wire I follow that..

Also, if you upgrade the wire do you have upgrade positive and negative or positive only?

 

[dkoldman]

I ran two 1/0 instead of one 4/0. I was wisely told on this forum that this is equal.
Can you easily run another cable next to the existing?
Fuses are cheap and can possibly/probably use the same holder.

If I follow, I would need a short Red 1/0 to attached to battery positive post and then the input of this fuse block and then one longer Red 1/0 to run for output of fuse block to join the other end to connect to back of inverter? Then do I have to do the same for black 1/0?

It is not an easy wire for me because the wires all merge into a bundle and goes inside a wall and it comes out some place near the backwall of the compartment. The 2nd wire may have to have it's own route?

I still can't imagine needing more than 1/0? Where on earth would you find a battery cable that is 4/0?

I don't intend to increase my battery capacity. The only advantage of 1500 or 2500 watts is to know that I could safely run the microwave. It I did it would never draw more than 8 or 9 amps or so? I think the inverter max output amperage is 21 amps.

 

[16ACE27]

Where does 13 come from?

Also... think of my quest from my forced predicament.

I had 1000 watt inverter and never had an issue. I don't need any more power, meaning I never tripped the 1000 watt inverter or blew the 150 amp fuse.

13 VDC between 12 and 14 VDC.

If you don't need any more power than 1000 watts why are you asking about a 2500 watt inverter and infrastructure?

 

[ducksface]

If you're only running the microwave you'll be fine.
Should you decide to fluff your coiffe, keep the blow-dryer on low.

Your stick-house has 200 to 400a available but your stick-house microwave uses only it's microwave portion of it.
Same with the inverter.
The inverter has potential for the maximum watts but it won't be delivering maximum watts. You microwave makes the call for power.

The load is what requires larger cables.
The load you've always had has been handled by your current(ha!)cables without trauma/drama