CSW Inverter E03 Error Code

[dkoldman]

13 VDC between 12 and 14 VDC.

If you don't need any more power than 1000 watts why are you asking about a 2500 watt inverter and infrastructure?

So you would use an unlucky number for me

I want the 2500 unit (if possible) because it is at a very good price and it has very nice display on the unit below in compartment and modern LED remote. Additionally since my Microwave consumes 1350 watts (900 watts cooking output) I should be able to safely use.

With that said you are right, in a sense I don't need more power we run everything just fine. But given I must get a new Inverter, I would like to make it work without doing too much overhaul.

 

[16ACE27]

Well if the 2500 is calling your name do what Duck did and run another cable in parallel and use a bigger fuse.

 

[dkoldman]

If you're only running the microwave you'll be fine.
Should you decide to fluff your coiffe, keep the blow-dryer on low.

We don't have a hair dryer, nor a coffee maker.

Your stick-house has 200 to 400a available but your stick-house microwave uses only it's microwave portion of it.

stick-house is over my head? Do you mean the 150amp fuse that I have now?


Same with the inverter.
The inverter has potential for the maximum watts but it won't be delivering maximum watts. You microwave makes the call for power.

The Microwave consumes 1350 watts of power ( so based on my newly learned TED ACE LAW that = 104 amps ( should not blow 150 amp fuse)

The load is what requires larger cables.
The load you've always had has been handled by your current(ha!)cables without trauma/drama

Your last point is my thought. I don't really know how to overload the inverter. I would think the batteries would be the weakest link. Seems like I may be able to go to a 200amp fuse for good measures ( if they make 200amp fuses that fit the Littleton block)?

I will look to see how the wiring is run, but I just don't believe need that much power.

Our worst case scenario at one time...

1. Outdoor residential fridge ( inside will always be on propane when boondocking)
2. 2 TVs
3. Entertainment equipment
4. Lights / vent fans / chargers
5. then you could say we may need the Microwave for 2 1/2 minutes

 

[dkoldman]

Well if the 2500 is calling your name do what Duck did and run another cable in parallel and use a bigger fuse.

Ever heard of Vevor?

https://www.vevor.com/pure-sine-wav...w-dc12v-to-ac120v-inverter-lcd-p_010472851408

Magnum Dynamics confirmed my CSW1012 is toast. They want $550 to go back 6 years ago. I just don't think so.

The Cobra 1500 pictured above is in RV now. I may run an extension cord to the microwave with everything else off to see how close I get 1500 with it. If the Cobra 1500 had a Remote like the one in the Vevor I would simply buy a Cobra Remote an call it a day.

But for $180, I can have the 2500 and really nice displays on on both ends.

 

[dkoldman]

Vevor Support Response

I just got the below from Vevor Support.

The VEVOR Pure Sine Wave Inverter you are considering should work in your RV with 1/0 wiring and a 150 amp fuse, provided that the electrical load you plan to connect to the inverter does not exceed its rated capacity of 2500 watts.

Since your previous 1000-watt inverter has been working well without tripping breakers or blowing fuses for 5 years, it is a good indicator that your electrical system is well-designed and can handle the load.

However, it's important to note that the higher wattage of the new inverter means that it has the potential to draw more current from your battery system. As long as the wiring and fuse are appropriately sized for the new inverter's capacity, you should not encounter any issues.

If you still have questions afterward, you can contact me directly via email.

 

[ducksface]

Vevor is a kind of clearing house for renamed stuff.
They rename almost every possible product line from shovels to frying pans to cigar humidor to tractor parts as vevor.
But
Harbor freight sells a good sine wave inverter(this sine wave thing is a laptop protection and not much else) , they're right around the corner, their warranty is really well trusted.

Sticks and bricks
Or just
sticks
Refers to a land based site built home.

When you take a second mortgage
You
Hock your sticks.

I was speaking of Vernacular buildings using a specific narrow vernacular.(but I thought everyone knew 'stick built')

 

[dkoldman]

I don't have a mortgage let alone a 2nd mortgage

We paid our house off in like 5 years and that was that.

Thanks for Harbor Freight suggestion, but the only unit they have with remote is like $500 and it is 3000 watts, so that is even worse for wiring for power that we don't really need. For $500 I could buy new CSW1012 and be plug and play.

Believe it or not, I am only pondering all of this due to remote. The Cobra 1500 installed now does not work my existing CSW1012 Remote, I could try to buy one for $40 and call it a day. I was leaning that way until I saw the Vevor. for $175 I get what looks like the best / fanciest modern day Inverter remote I have ever seen? I am sure there are better but I see $175 as great price, thus trying to see how I may safely wire it if it is possible?

I had never heard of Vevor, but then again I had never heard of CSW1012 until I bought RV. I was able to get some at Vevor support so with their 1 year warranty risk is not too big. I just wish to know if I can do like Vevor and that other unrelated website states which is running off 1/0

 

[ducksface]

One of my credit cards automatically installs an extra two year warranty on most electronic things.
Inverters are odd so check to see if a card of yours will qualify one.

https://m.vevor.com/snow-shovels-ra...x9OqfbPhGtltMl8BjMuEN5bIvyBwRLiOR0P1gLx9Y6p0Y

 

[dkoldman]

One of my credit cards automatically installs an extra two year warranty on most electronic things.
Inverters are odd so check to see if a card of yours will qualify one.

https://m.vevor.com/snow-shovels-ra...x9OqfbPhGtltMl8BjMuEN5bIvyBwRLiOR0P1gLx9Y6p0Y

It is 6 years old and the nature of damage may be questionable. Ironically, I could go ahead and file the claim with Progressive and they will pay for everything. All the repairs and no deductible. Progressive Inspector has come out because I reported the damage. It may be dumb on my part to pay out of pocket, but my gambit is that I minimize a claim in hopes to not have a crazy increase this fall. There are no guarantees but it is what I am thinking.

Vevor is new to me, so I find it interesting the products on their website. I first saw their Inverter on ebay. Thus far I can't even find a 2nd option that is close.

Before I forget. When you run upgrade a wired (positive) do you also have to upgrade the (negative)?

That would mean I need 4 / 0 battery cables. I am not sure where the black (negative ) wire runs from the battery?

Thanks,

 

[ducksface]

I meant it to be used to enhance the warranty on your new vevor unit.

 

[dkoldman]

A Test Case

I turned off Shorepower, left the Visio soundbar, T Mobile black box & entertainment cabinet on.

I turned on the Cobra Inverter and got 80 watts. I then took a regular 18 gauge extension cord to connect the microwave to a inverter circuit. My wife set microwave for 1 minute to warm a plate while I watch the Cobra. It ran smoothly and peaked at 1,460 watts. It just seems like that 2500 would be perfect for a peak demand for 2 minutes or so?

The other thing is I could install the 2500, a few extra 150 amp fuses and run off existing wiring. If I have issue wouldn't it blow the 150 fuse? We may use exactly like we want and never blow a fuse. But I think I could go to 200 or 300 amp fuse and be just fine as well.

Lot to process...

 

[16ACE27]

Ever heard of Vevor?

https://www.vevor.com/pure-sine-wav...w-dc12v-to-ac120v-inverter-lcd-p_010472851408

Magnum Dynamics confirmed my CSW1012 is toast. They want $550 to go back 6 years ago. I just don't think so.

The Cobra 1500 pictured above is in RV now. I may run an extension cord to the microwave with everything else off to see how close I get 1500 with it. If the Cobra 1500 had a Remote like the one in the Vevor I would simply buy a Cobra Remote an call it a day.

But for $180, I can have the 2500 and really nice displays on on both ends.

Did your CSW have an ATS? Cuz that Vevor does not appear to. I assumed you had an ATS in the CSW.

 

[dkoldman]

Did your CSW have an ATS? Cuz that Vevor does not appear to. I assumed you had an ATS in the CSW.

No it did not ATS, I wish I had one. What I did though is put a UPS in cabinet and plug devices to it so when I switch over my TV, Roku, T Mobile Box etc would not loose power. It works great but I use it limited when we are moving around in and out of a campsite. Downside is sometimes I forget and the UPS will start to beep on me or even drain down if I don't turn it off.

I do have the pass through that is supposed to made specifically for my CSW but it is working fine with my Cobra. If I knew what I was doing, I could figure out how to reconfigure the wires in the RJ11 connector / cord so that my CSW remote can turn the Cobra On / Off? As it is now, I can turn the inverter ON from CSW remote and green light comes on, but I cannot turn it off with the remote. Worse when I go down to basement manually turn off it will not turn off unless I unplug the RJ11 plug from the inverter

If I got the remote to work, I would be good to go today. The inside would be the exact same look, plus I would have gone from 1000 watts to 1500 watts just barely enough where I proved today I can run the microwave. The Remote that is specified for the Cobra is discontinued, but a few places still have it. I have seen some reviews where some complain it did not work? My guess is they may have had wrong type of RJ11 which is why my setup may not be working. This is how I came to the Vevor, because versus spending $40 on the old dated remote, for $175 I can give my RV a digital look plus a lot more information than simple led for off/on.

 

[dkoldman]

Question:

I noticed that most all of the inverters come with battery cables. For 3500s on down, I don't see then coming with 2/0 or 4/0 cables? In fact the 2500 that I may buy has less than the 1/0 but granted it is short.

From what lit bit I have learned in the last 2 hours, I think 1/0 can handle 300amps, may be a tad warmer than 2/0 or 4/0 but it can handle it safely. Further I don't think I would ever exceed 200amp even if I tried. If I did, I would not be able to exceed it very long before the batteries where to go down.

 

[Beau388]

No it did not ATS, I wish I had one.

[snip]

I have a spare add-on inverter ATS. $50 and it could be yours.

 

[dkoldman]

I have a spare add-on inverter ATS. $50 and it could be yours.

That looks like my CSW Pass-thru? See 1st picture in Post #12. The inverter in the picture is old Cobra I had sitting in the garage to temporarily replace my Magnum Dimension CSW1012. While the pass-thru function is automatic, it is NOT immediate so there is momentary loss of power so the units like TV and Internet shut down and will restart.

I am not sure if what you have maintains continuous power. When I get a chance I will pull my diagrams to see what the Magnum Dimension ATS looks like.

I am thinking what you have or similar would replace my CSW Pass-thru? I could theoretically use the same female ends of my molex connectors also pictured to make it plug and play, but it looks like yours is missing the male end to plug into my converter?

 

[dkoldman]

Updates:

1. So Cobra says today they do not make any remote that support the Cobra Inverter model I have. So I would have to risk paying $40 to buy one that I may find in the market place and hope it works or just accept that the Cobra Inverter while working well as a backup will not have Remote

2. I also see where the Vevor Inverter above is being sold at Home Depot I rememember about 12 years ago I was looking at an off brand Sinemate 3500 Pure Sine wave Inverter made in China and lot of peeps were saying it would only last one year, then one day I saw it was sold at Home Depot. I did not buy it from Home Depot but it gave me more confidence. I fire that Genny up 2 weeks ago while the Mobile Tech was here fixing my rear compartment. I used it to power his 65 gallon compressor and other equipment on his truck.

3. Northern Tool & Home Depot sell an exact 2000watt replica or knock off of my 1000watt CSW1012 for $349. Magnum Dimensions 2000watt of the same is $700. https://www.homedepot.com/p/KISAE-2...jajw94ohRV8GK88CfXcaAoelEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
This option is intriguing because my existing remote panel should work and it should fit into the exact same holes. 2000 watts is still more than I need

4. From my research so far, unless someone can prove wrong, I am convinced that a 2500 or 2000 watt inverter will do just fine on my existing 1/0 battery cables. Worst case 2500 watts would be 208 amps. I could prolly put a 200amp fuse in and never blow it or even go with 300 amp fuse knowing that as long as I have 2500 watt inverter or less, I will never come close to that much power. If someone wishes to buy the RV and put in a 4000 watt inverter they may

 

[Beau388]

That looks like my CSW Pass-thru? See 1st picture in Post #12. {snip}
I am thinking what you have or similar would replace my CSW Pass-thru? I could theoretically use the same female ends of my molex connectors also pictured to make it plug and play, but it looks like yours is missing the male end to plug into my converter?

Yep, the male pug is missing. Basically it is a 24 volt DC relay (DPST) that has 15 amp contacts. The inverters output opens the relay and when the inverter is bot powered the relay is closed allowing pass-through.

 

[16ACE27]

I have a spare add-on inverter ATS. $50 and it could be yours.

I have two of those in my RV:
One for the TVs and selected outlets (one circuit)
And one for the Residential Fridge (a different circuit)

They both work flawlessly.

 

[dkoldman]

Did your CSW have an ATS? Cuz that Vevor does not appear to. I assumed you had an ATS in the CSW.

I was wrong. I do have a ATS and it is pictured in post #12.

https://www.magnum-dimensions.com/sites/default/files/MagDocs/64-0064-Rev-A-CSW-TS15-Web.pdf

But in my book I did not view as automatic because of the slight delay of loss of power. It does automatically switch from SP to Inverter; so I was wrong about that.

The external UPS I use is to keep power to some devices while it (ATS) is automatically switching. I guess to get what I was thinking they would have to make a ATS/UPS Combo Inverter PassThru?