CSW Inverter E03 Error Code

[dkoldman]

I have a spare add-on inverter ATS. $50 and it could be yours.

I have two of those in my RV:
One for the TVs and selected outlets (one circuit)
And one for the Residential Fridge (a different circuit)

They both work flawlessly.

When your pass thru ATS switch, do you have momentary loss of power?

 

[Chateau_Nomad]

I turned my 3k inverter on at 9:30 this morning... then turned on the hot empty absorption fridge... Low 90s today and partly cloudy. At 11 am the motorhome wall thermostat read 99°. 4 pm fridge was 34°... freezer 0°.

At 8 pm it had use 60 amp hours of battery... 240 of 300 left. That's with 600 watts solar boosting. I'm leaving it run overnight to test. This is just the fridge, nothing else.

Notes: This 3k inverter has shore power pass-through and has basically an instantaneous switch-over transfer switch. Tested with both generator and shore power... seamless with no interruption of power. Bear in mind this is an $800+ unit though.

I found (after I installed a 3k) the the sweet spot for inverter for us was 2,000 watts. Although we could run A/C with the 3k, we never do. Plus a 2k uses much less idle power.

 

[dkoldman]

I turned my 3k inverter on at 9:30 this morning... then turned on the hot empty absorption fridge... Low 90s today and partly cloudy. At 11 am the motorhome wall thermostat read 99°. 4 pm fridge was 34°... freezer 0°.

At 8 pm it had use 60 amp hours of battery... 240 of 300 left. That's with 600 watts solar boosting. I'm leaving it run overnight to test. This is just the fridge, nothing else.

Notes: This 3k inverter has shore power pass-through and has basically an instantaneous switch-over transfer switch. Tested with both generator and shore power... seamless with no interruption of power. Bear in mind this is an $800+ unit though.

I found (after I installed a 3k) the the sweet spot for inverter for us was 2,000 watts. Although we could run A/C with the 3k, we never do. Plus a 2k uses much less idle power.

A lot to unpack here. Let me scattershoot

1. My fridge draws about 600watts, what do you see?
2. Are you saying your Lithium batteries have 300 ah total available or is that the total they are rated for? I have total 250 & 125 available but I need to test my batteries to see how well thy are doing. My AGM vMax tank batteries are 3 years 3 months old now.
3. I am looking at a lot of inverter now. a 2500 is the max I will buy and a 2000 is the minimum I will buy, I must have a nice remote, and it must fit in my basement compartment with display visible.
4. I see some brand new inverters with no ground connector? Should I just eliminate those, ignore as not needed or try to ground on metal cover somewhere?
5. Why do so many Inverters come with fuses? Is that because they expect them to blow all the time, or they just being kind to give you something you don't need? I have never blown a fuse in my old Magnum Dimension Inverter and if I did, I would likely tear it up trying to get inside.
6. What ever I get, I will be safer because how we use inverter will not change, we will have double capacity. The only gain is that I could run the microwave if we wanted to, but I may never do that because I would need a mod to figure out how to properly put the microwave on inverter circuit.

 

[Chateau_Nomad]

A lot to unpack here. Let me scattershoot

1. My fridge draws about 600watts, what do you see?
2. Are you saying your Lithium batteries have 300 ah total available or is that the total they are rated for? I have total 250 & 125 available but I need to test my batteries to see how well thy are doing. My AGM vMax tank batteries are 3 years 3 months old now.
3. I am looking at a lot of inverter now. a 2500 is the max I will buy and a 2000 is the minimum I will buy, I must have a nice remote, and it must fit in my basement compartment with display visible.
4. I see some brand new inverters with no ground connector? Should I just eliminate those, ignore as not needed or try to ground on metal cover somewhere?
5. Why do so many Inverters come with fuses? Is that because they expect them to blow all the time, or they just being kind to give you something you don't need? I have never blown a fuse in my old Magnum Dimension Inverter and if I did, I would likely tear it up trying to get inside.
6. What ever I get, I will be safer because how we use inverter will not change, we will have double capacity. The only gain is that I could run the microwave if we wanted to, but I may never do that because I would need a mod to figure out how to properly put the microwave on inverter circuit.

It's not all that much more effort to just hardwire your inverter into your AC panel. Then you can use any outlet or appliance... of course that's within the watt rating of the inverter. But YOU make the choice!

With a 2k inverter setup like that, single appliance use is no problem. Just avoid using high watt combos... microwave/hairdryer for instance.

But seriously - it would drive me nuts not being able to just plug into ANY outlet or just fire up the microwave for a quick rest stop lunch. Once you have that option, you'll wonder what took you so long to hard wire it in!

 

[dkoldman]

It's not all that much more effort to just hardwire your inverter into your AC panel. Then you can use any outlet or appliance... of course that's within the watt rating of the inverter. But YOU make the choice!

It is if you do not know how. I put my fridge on the inverter circuit by tapping into nearby receptacle that was on a 15amp breaker, that was mainly for 3rd TV that we almost never use. It has worked to perfection.

With a 2k inverter setup like that, single appliance use is no problem. Just avoid using high watt combos... microwave/hairdryer for instance.

Our Microwave is 1350 watts and Fridge is about 600 so we would be close if we ran both at the same time if we had the 2000. Our 2 fridge which is outdoors is residential and is very low on power consumption, the main TV and T mobile black box may be more. We would never have both fridges running on inverter.

But seriously - it would drive me nuts not being able to just plug into ANY outlet or just fire up the microwave for a quick rest stop lunch. Once you have that option, you'll wonder what took you so long to hard wire it in!

There is / was only one place in RV that did not have a receptacle on the 1000 watt inverter circuit and it did drive me crazy. I fixed by putting my own receptacle that in one of the bench seats under the table. My wife use the most for plugging in her laptop.

I am not so sure ( unless it really is easy and I learn how because I would never pay to have done) that I would have microwave wired to inverter even if I get a new 2500 inverter. Yes I would like to have the option, but it is not nerving for us because the button to turn on the Inverter is right next to the buttons to turn on the generator. We have two buttons to start the genny, the OEM genny switch and the EC-30 AGS switch.

I am in a pickle right now on inverter, because my backup Cobra 1500 is working fine with 500 watts more, but no remote and the remote that works made by Cobra is discontinued with lot of complaint that it does not work right unless you can some how ground the RJ11 cord.

I don't think I want to pay $500 to get a brand new 1000watt of what I had, nor do I want to pay $800 for brand new 2000watt of same model that I had. Although I may consider buying a knockoff 2000watt of same mode i had from Home Depot.

But what I researching right now is something between 2000 - 2500 watts that has really nice displays with meaningful information on both the unit and the remote. I may leave my OEM remote on the wall and simply add a newer more modern remote next to it. That way if I ever wish to go back to Magnum Dimensions I can.

 

[dkoldman]

So I finished my research and decided to buy the below Yitranics Inverter.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/196151624680

It is relatively new name, but the Duckface guy and the Customer Support responses from Vevor spooked me from the Vevor 2500 watt unit I was leaning toward.

Why I chose the Yitranics

1. 2200 watts I am going from 1000 watt system that has been no issues so this is massive upgrade for me. It is more than a 2000 watt system but less than 2500 watt. If 1/0 wiring can handle 3500 or less, I should not have to do anything on 2200 watt unit (maybe go to CNN 250 or CNN 300 fuse)

2. The remote. It is vastly superior to anything i have seen. On paper anyway. I like the digital display and the ability to read input / output voltage as well as power consumption. It is also wireless so remote can be moved around. Or remote can be wired.

3. Size, it should fit into footprint of my now dead 1000 watt unit, but having the unit's display on top of the unit versus in front on one of the sides may be issue the way my inverter is installed. The wireless remotes may allow me to workaround.

4. Cost, this can be good or bad. I have to buy to find out, and that is what I have done.

5. Support, I spent a few days discussing with the seller and he is very responsive. He even listed a 2nd remote option based on my feedback. He knows I intend to evaluate so we will see.

 

[dkoldman]

This was a forced mod or need to replace my damaged inverter but it is turning out as nice upgrade opportunity. I have been dealing with the mfg directly getting all kinds insight.

Even though I ordered a CNN300 amp fuse, I doubt if I use now. I may return if all goes well otherwise. The Mfg and I concluded that since the 2200 watt inverter has it's own fuses, I really don't need a inline fuse, but if I do use one, and I will; it need to be 230amps. So I have ordered a CNN225 and CNN250. My plan is to try the 225amp first, fire up the fridge and the microwave with popcorn and see what power consumption I show. If I don't blow the 225amp fuse, I never will. If I do; I will try again with the 250 amp. I wish to avoid blowing fuses in the inverter.

On a side note, just playing around I turned on my Makita air compressor, it only draws about 400watts . It is rated at 350watts which is incredible. I had always assumed I needed the generator to run the compressor, no more with the new 2200 or the 1500wat I am using today.

I can't crow about what I bought yet, but if it is worth anything I will. It is off brand but it has all the boxes checked and will do things that I didn't know were possible like a WiFi connection to a Remote (not your phone or app, not yet anyway) But could be in the house with the remote and can monitor input/output voltage of Inverter and power consumption. If it gets low, I get alarms and I can turn it off and never go outside. The Mfg is not sure how it works. They are buying some parts to test my theory out. I went ahead and bought the 2nd remote anyway, just because they are really interested in what I am doing and how it may come out. That kind of assistance is priceless. I plan to have one hardwired inside the RV and the other can be mobile. The inverter has a nice display panel on it, but I believe the way I will have to mount, I will not see the display because they have display on top of inverter not the edge.

 

[dkoldman]

Does it matter if the Inverter's output is 110vac vs 120vac?

I ask because I never checked with my old inverter and most all of these new inverters are saying 110vac to 120vac some even say 115vac +/-5vac

 

[Beau388]

Does it matter if the Inverter's output is 110vac vs 120vac?

I ask because I never checked with my old inverter and most all of these new inverters are saying 110vac to 120vac some even say 115vac +/-5vac

Most appliances will work ok on voltages between 108 and 130 VAC. It doesn't matter if it is true sine wave or stepped square wave (modified sine wave). If you have a Progressive EMS wired after the ATS, it will show the frequencies and L1 & L2 voltage and amperage on shore power or the generator. Since the AC voltage is zero twice a cycle, the true voltage is root mean squared or RMS. A little calculus is used to calculate it. Most volt meters average the AC voltage which is ok for detective work, but poor of you are supply the MWs to the users. My generator shows 124 volts, no load and 117 volts with both A/C at full blast. The EMS will shut down when the voltage hits 107 volts but the inverter will come on and supply exactly 120 volts to the powered circuits. My Xantrex remote has Bluetooth and with my cell phone, i can control and monitor the Freedom 2000 with the Xantrex app.


Until early in the 1900's the voltage standard for the power company was 110 volts single phase. As electric ranges and water heaters came along, it became 110 volts split phase to allow 220 volt appliances. Shortly after some of the larger power companies upgraded to 120/240 volts. It was all done by the transformers on the power pole outside. Later when the Eastern and Western grids were established for power sharing they adopted the 120/240 volt home power standard. You still 110/120 volt rating on receptacles because many older buildings still have 110 volt wiring.


I know because i was reared is such a house with aa total of 4 110 volt knob and tube circuits on screw-in glass fuse. Coal for heat and kerosene for hot water and stove. Electricity was for room lights, fans, radio and the light in the icebox. Yep i am an old heat/power engineer.

 

[dkoldman]

My SOB EMS only shows current, but will shut down systems based on preestablished load priority.

The context of my question is that the new Inverter I am running with outputs 110vac. The literature claims 115 +/-5vac so I guess they would be right if it is at 110vac

I don't want to overthink this because I never bothered to check what my OEM 1000w Inverter's actual output was. I just used it. It was destroyed by flat tire, thus my change and need for new inverter. For kicks, I put in my old Cobra 1500 Modified sine wave as a temp placeholder. It actually allows me to use the microwave, but I only show 86vac output at the inverter receptacles I am gonna stop using it versus trying to figure out why.

But this leaves me with my question to know if I will be good if I put a new 2200 watt inverter in RV knowing that the output is going to be 110vac?

In one aspect, I hate to penalize the said inverter because it actually shows the input/output voltage along with power consumption real time on the remote panel.

Note: Even though it is 2200 watt inverter, I have designed in a way to keep my wiring for 15amp load max and I will monitor to keep max power at 1800 or lower. We are not heavy users of the inverter short of watching TV when boondocking.

 

[dkoldman]

I am about to concede I can't get conclusive answers to the question...

if I will be good if I put a new 2200 watt inverter in RV knowing that the output is going to be 110vac?

I am also starting to question the merits or demerits if running 110 vs 220? Some say the power stays the same, so if true does that mean you are drawing more current and running higher? Or is it that if my drill can run at 110 is it actually doing the same thing with less power?

At rate, working with Engineering of the company that makes the new inverter I decided to buy, when I posed them with this dilemma, the y advise they will send me a communication cable to connect the Inverter to my PC so I can adjust the voltage to whatever I want (120vac). How cool is that

I also planning to mount the new inverter on the outside of box that the OEM inverter was inside. I don't want my inverter up against the tire well wall, plus it may run cooler (better air circulation) not being inside that tight box . An added bonus is I will now be able to read the display on top of the inverter.

Waiting on 225ANN/CNN amp fuse tomorrow. I got a 250ANN/CNN today, but I will only use if I can blow the 225 amp while testing. I plan to return the 300amp CNN fuse. If this product checks out and works like I hope, I will do picture or maybe feature it. To put in perspective, given what I know now, I may have wanted to replace my OEM 1000watt Magnum Dimensions even though it was working with no issues.

 

[Chateau_Nomad]

It's actually 120 vs 240... but just modern day semantics. Consider that many countries foreign to the U.S. have adopted a 240 volt standard. And yes it is more efficient, but you'll have to get an electrical engineer to explain that.

Many components used to have internal DIP switches to configure voltage. That was very common until Chinese products became as prolific as they are today. Now they have the luxury of manufacturing for target markets.

 

[dkoldman]

Transfer post from Nothing thread

Your jacks/slide have nothing to do with the BIM or chassis battery... the 12 volts for those (provided wired correctly) should come from house batteries.

You are forgetting I have a Winnebago. My Jacks are powered by the Chassis battery. I don't even have a BIM technically speaking.

I was suggesting running the generator to charge batteries... not necessarily use as a power source for jacks/slide.

I know, but that was not my question or concern with LI-BIM. Per my manual my engine is suppose to running when using the jacks. It is assumed the alternator is running, regardless of charge level it is to get full power (current). I was posing the what-if when I do the same with LI-BIM that I don't have today, that may happen to be in rest state for alternator? The engine would be running but no full power (current) from the Alternator.

Remember you have options. If the Li-BIM / solar option isn't your cup of tea, go with the DC-DC charger. You won't get the supplemental charging from solar, but you get the "always on while driving" charging instead of the "on/off" switching of the Li-BIM. That's your preference.

To make it flow, you really need to throw Solar out the equation. Top off charging is not the focus of the Switch that I would add.

Yes I have at least two options. If I go with LI-BIM, I will not need a switch assuming it works the way I read in the install manual, I will need to verify with Precision Circuits next week that LI BIM will allow my AUX/START to work ( it says it does, but the wiring is my question)

If I go with DC to DC, I will put a switch in compartment next to my Trombetta. The switch will be off 99.9% of the time so that the alternator cannot charge the batteries. My OEM wiring stays in tact and only my Trombetta is out. But should I need to use AUX/START; then I will go outside lower bay compartment next to breakers and flip the switch so Solenoid (Trombetta) makes contact; then go inside RV press AUX/START to start the engine IF it does what you say and allow the Lithiums to help with starting


You seem to use your generator quite often, so you should have no issue using that to keep ANY type battery charged. And unless you're moving your battery location, yours should be a relatively easy upgrade to lithium.

My point was NOT about keeping batteries charged, but having the Alternator supplying power the moment(s) I was operating my Jacks and/or Slide which is per my operating manual. With LI-BIM I am questioning that it may be in rest state, or go into rest state during operation, I don't know the impact. I will find out BEFORE buying. In short, I would like to ensure 100% when operating my slide or Jacks that the alternator is provided current to both sets of batteries. That may not be possible with this LI-BIM gadget?

I plan to use my Genny at the exact same rate after the change to Lithium as before. For me the Primary benefit is that I will have increased my available ah capacity from 125ah to 190ah using batteries that currently cost $270 cheaper for a pair. I may use that profit to invest in a new Converter and a LI-BIM or DC to DC TBD.

 

[dkoldman]

It's actually 120 vs 240... but just modern day semantics. Consider that many countries foreign to the U.S. have adopted a 240 volt standard. And yes it is more efficient, but you'll have to get an electrical engineer to explain that.

Many components used to have internal DIP switches to configure voltage. That was very common until Chinese products became as prolific as they are today. Now they have the luxury of manufacturing for target markets.

The inverter I was referring to Yitanics is actually producing at 110vdc NOT 120vdc. Their literature posted says specs are 115+/- 5vdc

They acknowledged and then told me it was adjustable. They have to send me Communications to connect to my Laptop where I can adjust output to be exactly 120+/-5vac. I don't have the new unit to confirm, but I will post results of that inverter, I acknowledge it is a high risk China product, but if it works great!!!

 

[Chateau_Nomad]

Oh... my mistake. I made the assumption your jacks etc. were powered from house batteries. The only duty my chassis battery has is the truck engine... simpler that way.

In your case using the chassis battery for jacks and slide, the Li-BIM wouldn't affect that circuit. If you reference the BIM wiring, your jacks and slide would be connected to the chassis battery terminal on the BIM (or a bus connected to that), NOT the house battery terminal. Therefore the "on/off" cycling wouldn't affect power going to the jacks/slide. AND the alternator would be charging the chassis battery continuously with engine running.

The BIM only comes into play to transfer current between the chassis and house batteries or using the emergency start. It DOES NOT MATTER if the BIM is in it's disconnected state... the chassis battery is always connected to the jacks/slide... and so isn't the alternator. Looking at the wiring, the jacks/slide are essentially jumpered across the BIM, bypassing it.

 

[dkoldman]

Oh... my mistake. I made the assumption your jacks etc. were powered from house batteries. The only duty my chassis battery has is the truck engine... simpler that way.

In your case using the chassis battery for jacks and slide, the Li-BIM wouldn't affect that circuit. If you reference the BIM wiring, your jacks and slide would be connected to the chassis battery terminal on the BIM (or a bus connected to that), NOT the house battery terminal. Therefore the "on/off" cycling wouldn't affect power going to the jacks/slide. AND the alternator would be charging the chassis battery continuously with engine running.

The BIM only comes into play to transfer current between the chassis and house batteries or using the emergency start. It DOES NOT MATTER if the BIM is in it's disconnected state... the chassis battery is always connected to the jacks/slide... and so isn't the alternator. Looking at the wiring, the jacks/slide are essentially jumpered across the BIM, bypassing it.

So this does half of my concern, and probably the biggest of the tow. While true my hydraulics jacks are on the Chassis battery, the slide is on the house battery. But your insight that the LI-BIM will always feed the Chassis and not be part of the 20 minute shutdown every 15 minutes is critical need to know information. I suspect WBGO felt that due to the power needs that engine/alternator must be running and putting on the chassis battery is a good way to force that practice.

With that said, my question is still in play with the slide. I sent questions to Precision Circuits because I must know. It may not be a problem, but I don't want to be the guy on the phone with WBGO & Service guys trying to figure what happened to my slide after 5 years an they ask what did I change, I tell them abnout the LI-BIM and they say making electrical modifications to your coach is never recommended or supported.

I still don't know how the LI-BIM will be able to work for me on the emergency start? In my case (SO I only have one wire (LR) that is hot whenever the ignition is ON and/or the AUX/START button is depressed. So I guess in my case when I am driving it is in effect for the LI-BIM the same as me holding down the AUX/PRESS button and when Ignition is not on but AUX Start button pressed it makes the contacts.

One other question I have for Precision Circuits is how does it work to charge the chassis battery when on Shorepower or genny? My fear is if my Lithium are in Boost 14.4 and LI_BIM sees does it send the 14.4 to the Chassis or is it smart enough to only send what the Chassis need?

At the end of the day, I am sensing the LI-BIM is probably my best option. But right now for me, the 7ps are in effect....

Prior, Previous, Planning, Prevents, Piss, Poor, Performance

 

[dkoldman]

Ordered Brand New Renogy 40amp DC to DC

My 1st official step toward Lithium. Figures to be a long journey.

Instead of a Li-BIM 225, get one of these:

https://www.renogy.com/12v-20a-40a-...waAgixEALw_wcB&r_u_id=6302007725&gad_source=1

Then re-cable your BIRD solenoid as described to use as an E-start. The DC-DC charger is wired to your ignition switch so it's only connected and working when the engine is running. Lithium batteries don't need temperature compensation. Make sure everything is fused properly.

There's your SAFE lithium battery alternator charging solution... and emergency start setup.

I am doing this. https://www.renogy.com/12v-20a-40a-...waAgixEALw_wcB&r_u_id=6302007725&gad_source=1

The damn Chateau Nomadic man has won

I am still going to see what I learn on LI-BIM next week; so I won't rule it out. But I just ordered a brand new Renogy 40amp at a heluva price. Funny thing is I don't even have Lithium batteries :whistling: But this device can be configured for AGMs. It is highly possible that I may do these mods with the Switch, DC to DC, and new Converter with settings set for AGM. One I know all that is working, I can later shop for Lithium batteries and just change profiles in a to be purchased Progressive Dynamics Converter and my now on order Renogy DC to DC. No rush to dump the vMax AGM tanks, besides per my other thread, as of right now, I don't even have a working Inverter.

 

[dkoldman]

So I was looking at the specs on a Victron Energy DC to DC because even though I have purchased a Renogy, it doesn't mean I have stop my analysis. My search for the Non Isolated 12/12/30 took me a Battleborn site that I did not catch, so I was talking to guy about what I was doing and why...I happened to mention, that I was looking at the DC to DC because the Lithium batteries have become so cheap compared to my AGMs... he politely went on rampage to talk about Lithium batteries technology dada dada and then he say I am sorry but do you realize we were a Battery Company

Just goes to show, everybody has an angle.

I may put a pause on the entire Lithium pursuit. Too many obstacles. Renogy DC to DC can't be mounted upside down, Victron Orion says it can't operate if temp exceeds 150 degrees. Neither like mounting in the battery bay due to dust and possible moisture. Victron went so far to say in a controlled air room, I guess one would need to install on dinette table.

And the irony is they say they want mounted as close to the batteries as possible.

 

[dkoldman]

I learned that the Inverter I have on order got damaged in shipping, never got out of California.

The Renogy is still in transit but yesterday I decided since it could not be mounted upside down or handle dust, I will try to sell brand new in the box when I do get it.

My next choice was the Victron 12/12/30 but then I learned of all of the heat issues and fan requirements just for 30 amps. Then I ran across the Orion XS 50amps. Very small and packed with features. It is $328 about 3 times what I paid for the Renogy, but installation wise and features I don't mine paying. I try to save money but I am not cheap.

So this is what I am looking at today.

https://battlebornbatteries.com/pro...wK__Qf5GSIIV4T5w_Kjwp-D65hr6VrE0aAkzREALw_wcB

I will watch, maybe it goes on sale or I see an open box one.

I also found the switch I will use for the Trombetta (On/Off). It is a Safety Switch, I only need one, but I will bundle the below with my next Amazon purchase. I plan to put the switch in the Chassis breaker panel.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KQ2R6G4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A86AD06S3OMVQ&th=1

 

[dkoldman]

First Step on Conversion Prep for Lithium

Today I received and installed my new Progressive Dynamics Converter / Charger https://www.progressivedyn.com/product/pd9345/

It not only will provide me the flexibility to change profiles, but I learned that it has a special profile for AGM which is more efficient than the FLA profile. It also came with a Pendant for boosting on demand, but I have never needed that. My batteries with AGM typically never dips below 12.4vdc. With the new program, absorption is now 14vdc on my AGMs; so I suspect I may get more faster if not better performance from the existing batteries that were peaking out on 13.6vdc.

In future, if I ever do by Lithium batteries, I can simply change the profile and it goes up to 14.4vdc

My next steps are to install the new Yitranic Inverter which kind of started all of this. The Inverter brand is a gamble, it is due next week so we will see.

I also have new safety switches on order. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KQ2R6G4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 When they come, I will install one on the ignition wire that feed the Trombetta on the outside compartment Chassis breaker panel. This will give me the flexibility to turn off charging of chassis batteries through the solenoid while driving if I ever needed to shut it down, i.e. if I ever install a DC to DC system.

Speaking of DC to DC, I have my brand new Renogy 40amp DC to DC, but thus far, I have chose to not open it. I will look to sell it while I search a way to get the new Victron Energy XS 50amp DC to DC.

Hopefully by this time next week my new replacement inverter is installed an d working, and my coach is Lithium ready just waiting a DC to DC system to be installed.

Because my vMax tanks are still in good shape, I am in no rush to actually buy Lithium batteries. I just want the coach to be ready when / if new batteries fall in my lap. Maybe someone comes out with a way for me to get 300 or 400amps of Lithium in same space under steps or maybe even near buy.