CSW Inverter E03 Error Code

[dkoldman]

Update: I have not fried anything yet...

I have my new 2200 Inverter installed; so I will spend a week or so making sure it can handle loads. I have already run the Microwave 2 minutes.

I also finished the new switch on the Trombetta. I can now disable the Trombetta from connecting with the chassis battery or charging the house batteries direct from alternator as a source should I ever buy Lithium batteries.

I still have my DC to DC to go, but that will have to wait a little while longer.

Speaking of DC to DC, If I don't sell my brand new 40amp Renogy soon, I may have to open it and try to install it as much as I would like the Victron Energy 50 amp. When I wired for the switch I made a prewire run off the main ignition wire line for future if ever needed.

So far I am out about $430

$270 Progressive Dynamics Converter Charger
$ 45 4AWG wiring, switches, lugs
$115 Renogy 4amo DC to DC

That Victron XS 50amp is $328+tax

 

[dkoldman]

Update: Just Sold Converter

So far I am out about $330

$270 New Progressive Dynamics Converter Charger w/Remote
-$100 Sold Old Progressive Dynamics Converter charger
$ 45 4AWG wiring, switches, lugs
$115 New Renogy 40amp DC to DC
$TBD For Sale New Renogy 40amp DC to DC

 

[dkoldman]

Did not take long. Sold the Renogy

So far I am out about $330

$270 New Progressive Dynamics Converter Charger w/Remote
-$100 Sold Old Progressive Dynamics Converter charger
$ 45 4AWG wiring, switches, lugs
$115 New Renogy 40amp DC to DC
$TBD For Sale New Renogy 40amp DC to DC

I came home to find out the Renogy 40amp DC to DC has sold. That gives me clear path to find the newest Victron Energy Orion XS 50amp DC to DC.

$270 New Progressive Dynamics Converter Charger w/Remote
-$100 Sold Old Progressive Dynamics Converter charger
$ 45 4AWG wiring, switches, lugs
$100 New Renogy 40amp DC to DC
-$115 Sold New Renogy 40amp DC to DC

So now my net out of pocket for Lithium Conversion readiness is $200.

If I assume the Victron Orion XS 50amp will cost $370 (I know it is overkill, but it is badass) My total Lithium Conversion readiness will be $570. of course that does not include Lithium batteries. But in my case the cost of new Lithium batteries may not be a true line item as soon it will time to replace the vMax AGM Tanks anyway. I plan to buy Lithiums for cheaper than the vMax Tanks

 

[dkoldman]

So the blow out tire that would damage my Inverter may end up with a silver lining. Taking a negative from an inverter and getting a positive from new converter and DC to DC charger ( pun intended)

So I am expecting to receive the Victron Energy Orion XS 50 amp Charger on Friday. The NewtiPower 300ah battery is on order with ETA 8/23.

Looks as if I will complete my entire Lithium conversion well before I had planned to and get a new 300ah battery for less than some are paying for one Lithium 100ah battery ($949).

Total cost for me looks to be around $900.


Cost Item
$8 Disconnect Alternator Switch
$40 4AWG wiring, fuses, lugs
$269 New Progressive Dynamics Converter Charger w/Remote
-$100 Sold Old Progressive Dynamics Converter charger
$261 Victron Energy Orion XS 50amps
$7 Shipping label for Orion XS 50amps

$485 Total Lithium Capable Cost

$419 NewtiPower 300ah Lithium

$904 Total Conversion & 300ah Battery Upgrade

 

[dkoldman]

s there a trick to making the 4awg fit into that round terminal?

I received my Victron Energy Orion XS 50amp today.

I got all the parts so I was just playing around with the wiring and the connectors. I bought 4 awg wiring because I wanted what Victron says is the max and in the event I needed a longer wire run, I would be ready.

But the 4 awg wire does not fit into the hole on the Orion XS that once inside would be held down with a set screw.

I prefer to not go with 6awg wiring but it would fix my problem. Is there a trick to making the 4awg fit into that round terminal? Or am I forced to go buy 4awg ferrules and a special crimping tools. Tired of buying special tool to use one time

Why would Victron Energy... battery masterminds of the world have a product where 4awg is recommended but it does not fit? I will need to do 3 of these, two positives and one negative.

 

[dkoldman]

Finally!!!

Where there is a will... there is a way.

I finally got the 4 awg wire to fit inside the Victron Energy Orion XS.

This picture just represents another milestone. I still have a ways to go. The two hot wires (red) all lead to their respective 60amp Fuse block inside battery compartment, that I will do next.

I had to order a special crimp tool today that I can use to crimp the 4awg lugs that are required to connect to the ground block, and to both batteries that connect to other side of both fuse blocks. I will try that next week.

I like knowing that I will soon have my own crimper so I now I can cut the wires to be exact custom fit once I get it all together.

 

[Chateau_Nomad]

Single use tools for my lithium conversion were a significant cost... hydraulic crimper and ferrule crimp tool were maybe $80? I at least used the hydraulic tool again when adding an additional battery.

It goes without saying that having the correct tools for the job makes it FAR simpler... and a much cleaner result.

I've got leftover ferrules, grommets, shrink tubing, ring terminals and who knows what else. I'll eventually throw it all in a big box and list cheap on Facebook Marketplace.

 

[dkoldman]

Single use tools for my lithium conversion were a significant cost... hydraulic crimper and ferrule crimp tool were maybe $80? I at least used the hydraulic tool again when adding an additional battery.

It goes without saying that having the correct tools for the job makes it FAR simpler... and a much cleaner result.

I've got leftover ferrules, grommets, shrink tubing, ring terminals and who knows what else. I'll eventually throw it all in a big box and list cheap on Facebook Marketplace.

I looked at a $70 hydraulic crimper at Harbor Freight. I only have 3 lugs to crimp. My daughter order this for me on her prime, I should get next week to see.

I got plenty of lugs as they came with a kit of 4awg wire fir really good price. The have the sleeves that shrink wrap over the lug. I didn't need the ferrules for this Orion, I think the 30amp modes require the Ferrules.

If this tool crimps 3 lugs I will be happy and it will be a keeper.

Of course it is on sale. You may be seeing a pattern from me, opportunity buying is what I call it. No fun just buying stuff because you got money. I like to Beat the House

 

[dkoldman]

Got the Orion XS Powered up Connected to Phone

So today, I get my crimper tools. I finished making the cables and wired it all up except for the House battery. I just wanted to see the Victron come on and connect to the Victron App.

Well at first try I got nothing, I was a little worried that the Orion XS did not work, but I quickly pulled out the voltmeter and saw I had a poor ground. 3.65 vdc was the best I could get. I was connected to a built in OEM ground fuse block with spare holes. I never figured out if it was the screw or washer I was using, or if the rust on the bottom of chassis fuse block was the culprit?

I verified I could get the proper voltage by grounding direct to a battery. So I knew my cable was fine. I eventually connected the ground to a metal bracket that holds the house batteries. It is now working as it should. That battery bracket connection may be better anyway because it is inside not subject to road grime / water etc.

Next step: Now that Input from Chassis is in order, I will connect the output to the old AGM batteries. I have the Orion programmed for AGM Spiral cell batteries and a Regulator Alternator. When the output is connected, maybe tomorrow or later this week, I will flip the switch to disable the Trombetta. Pull out the Victron Connect App, making sure Parking Brake is set, and start the engine. It should auto turn on the Orion XS and send up to 50 amps. I will know what the amp input and output readings are via the app. It will also show me power / consumption.

When this is all done, I will turn on all lights & TVs to get batteries down to about 12.3vdc. I will then start the engine ( not genny) and see how long it takes to charge batteries. I am guessing 2 hours or less? If that is all good, I am ready for road trip with the AGMs

 

[Jimbo56]

Enjoy life’s simple pleasures.

 

[dkoldman]

Finished

I completed the successful install of my Orion XS to work with existing AGMs with no current flowing direct from Alternator, only through Victron Energy Orion XS.

Works flawlessly. It did not go above 42amp, so maybe one day when battery is really low it may hit the 50amp max setting. There are all types of graphs in the app; so if in practice if it peaks say at 45ah, I may lower the setting to be at 45ah.

Then again, I may leave it as is and wait until I drop in the new Lithium battery.

 

[dkoldman]

Two successful trips

I have now made two successful trips with new the Yitranics inverter, new ON/OFF switch for Trombetta, new Orion XS DC2DC and the new Progressive Dynamics Converter that supports Lithium.

I will now remove the beloved vMax Tanks 125ah batteries in favor of the new NewtiPower 300ah Lithium Battery.

 

[16ACE27]

For those wondering if their OG converter can charge LiFePO4 batteries, the answer is: yes. Absorption mode will fully charge them and then when it kicks into LA float mode they will slowly discharge (if there is a load on the system) to about 65%. Here's a pic of my converter finishing off my 500 AH bank.

 

[dkoldman]

For those wondering if their OG converter can charge LiFePO4 batteries, the answer is: yes. Absorption mode will fully charge them and then when it kicks into LA float mode they will slowly discharge (if their is a load on the system) to about 65%. Here's a pict of my converter finishing off my 500 AH bank.

Can I ask what is OG converter?

Are you saying that I could have kept my original OEM Progressive Dynamics 45 amp Converter that only had a FLA profile?

I changed the Profile on my new Progressive Dynamics 45amp Converter to Lithium which is the Blue color profile. I noticed that it only has two modes (Charge 14.4vdc & Idle 13.6) It was odd at first because the new battery was at 13.9vdc and 100% and then when converter was on with new profile it went to 14.2vdc @ 100%. After an hour or 3 the converter went to idle at 13.6 vdc so now the batteries voltage is 13.6vdc and @100% It has been sitting for 3 weeks at 13.9vdc @100%

But all looks fine otherwise. I see the EC-30 also is showing all 3 bars so it knows the Lithium is fully charged.

When all of this settles, and I know what is what. I will simulate a full weekend at a campsite at home to see how many days I can make before the AGS starts up if it starts up at all I will leave the Absorption fridge out the equation for now, because it is always on propane. I may turn on outside fridge though? We normally can do without unless we plan to cook outside.

 

[dkoldman]

While testing the load capacity of my new 300ah Lithium Battery on another thread, I noticed that the my new Inverter (Yitranics 2200 watts) has Open ground. We have looked a few items but I am reaching out to the Manufacturer today to see how they may respond as their appear to be some miswiring.

https://www.thorforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=423653&postcount=273

 

[dkoldman]

I got an email from Yitranics Engineering with regard to issue I note above with the Open ground.

Dear friend,
I think I may know the problem. I need some time to think how to explain this for you. I will reply you later.​

I don't think the Open Ground is going to be a real problem, but I am curious to see what they say and if one of the receptacle banks is miswired?

 

[dkoldman]

Response from Yitranics Engineering on why the "Open Ground" for Inverter

Response from Yitranics Engineering on why the "Open Ground" & swapped wires across the receptacle banks for Inverter

Dear friend,
About the problem you mention yesterday, first, I want to explain that the wiring of inverter is different from home grid system. In home grid system, there are Live and neutral wires,
This is for safety considerations during line installation. But for inverter, there are no real live and neutral wires.
When we use an inverter, we will not have access to its internal circuitry, we will only use the 120V output directly.
So finally the important thing is the voltage between terminal "N" and "L" is 120V, that is OK.

For this 2200W inverter, it has 4 standard US outlets, the wiring of the left 2 and right 2 are different. Please refer to the following
picture:​

This connection takes into account the issue of wiring, in order to make the internal wiring more concise and aesthetically pleasing. But please be sure that wiring is totally OK and safe.
For all inverter, there is no real "N" connection, because all voltage of "N" connection is not zero.

I am not sure whether my explanation is clear for you. About the 2 remote controller, did you use them at the same time?

With best regards,​

I am curious to get feedback on the response. To me it provides a logical explanation about why open ground / reverse live / neutral wires may be seen in Inverters... especially for the few that may actually have 4 receptacles.

Their reference about the two remotes is related to the fact that until me, they never had anyone wanting to have a wireless hand remote and the wall remote connected and usable at the same time. They initially said it could not be done, but I bought some parts including a wired splitter for the wireless adaptor and I got it to work. It actually works great. It is also one reason why I want this unit to really work, because right now; I can't find another 2200 watt inverter that has these features regardless of price or where it may have been made.

 

[dkoldman]

I think I just closed the last chapter of issues / impacts related to the rear dually blowout that cause damage to inverter and 100% loss of a rear compartment and it's contents.

Lost in the compartment was my brand new Weize AGM H8 battery that I had not got around to install for the Chassis. My OEM Chassis is 6 years old and still working. But I just didn't want a battery that old in RV especially for chassis. Yesterday I put in the 4 month old EverStart that was in my old 2008 Navigator. I rarely use it and I a thinking to sell it now. So I decided to put the Everstart Group 65 in the RV and put the 6 year old OEM Motorcraft battery in the RV. The Everstart Maxx has a 3 year warranty so I am good to go on all fronts now.

In hindsight, it is possible that H8 may not have fit anyway as it was lot longer that the OEM Group 65.

FWIW, I never did that water thingy on the 6 year old OEM Motorcraft FLA. It is now in the Navigator, and I still have not bothered to check the water level. When I sell it, the next owner can water it monthly if they like. Note: That little green indicator is still green in the battery. It is possible that because the battery never has been discharged no issues has been encountered with water etc?

 

[dkoldman]

Update

It has been several months now since I installed the new 2200 watt Yitranic Inverter with the two remotes.

Today, I finally felt comfortable to cut hole in the RV wall to permanently mount the new display. It is in the middle of the picture. It is a lot better than the previous Magnum Dimension Inverter switch which was only a green LED for ON/OFF.

The other remote is on the Dash by Steering wheel so I can turn inverter ON/OFF and read the input voltage DC, outbound AC voltage and the actual power being consumed.