Dead battery

Ford truck guy

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 30, 2015
Posts
2,356
Location
Pennsylvania
I just drove two hours, when I got here and did my auto level it stopped halfway saying low-voltage ... once I plug it in to shore power, all was fine .? The meter says that I am on right now?
The trailer has been plugged into shore power for the past three weeks with no issues .. any ideas?

Right now the meter sais 14.4 V - status float
 
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do you have an amp / voltmeter?? i ndon't trust on board meters. So If you do with the unit unplugged take the voltage of the batteries. Then plug it in and take the voltage. A 12v battery fully charged should top out at around 13.5 - 14.5 volts. To be sure the charger is working. If yes. check water levels and clean the posts. Also if you use the unit a lot and you have a residential fridge the batteries may be finished. Or if you store outside in the cold this winter they could have frozen. If they did they are toast.
also while you were driving they should have been charging so they may be finished. if you take them to an auto parts store they can test them. they may be at 14.4 volts but have no stored amps.
or as simple as a loose / dirty / rusted ground
 
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Joe,
One of my posts a few days ago mentioned the same problem I had and it was as simple as hitting the little reset button on the breaker behind or over the battery. Check at the cut-off switch and if no output that is your problem.

Steve
 
here is some thing you can try. With the battery voltage showing 14.4 (full charge). unplug the shore power and watch the meter you have on the wall. if it starts dropping faster than normal. If you have a res fridge you 2 batteries should last at least 24 hours. But if the voltage like drops to under the 12v in 20 minutes. the batteries are not holding and they are finished.maybe you can borrow one of these at a garage or auto parts store. Battery Charger Video - Analog Vs Digital - Advance Auto Parts » AAP - Demonstration - Schumacher - Battery Tester » Advance Auto Parts Video
 
Well I am home and cannot find my meter... I drove 2-1/2 hrs . . The bat meter was showing at 12.1 and 3/4 full . . Once I unhooked from the truck, the bats meter was showing 11.5 and less than 1/2 full. . . I really do not know ANYTHING about electrical systems, but it sounds like i need 2 batteries. . . I have deep cell, group 31 . . From the factory ... it was the option for sine wave inverter and upgraded bats . .
 
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Joe
Sounds like your batteries are toast. Mine lasted for 1 month when we bought the trailer. Replaced with 12v interstate AGM's so no need to add water. They are going on 2 years of fulltiming and still running the little pink bunny
 
Thanks Shane, that's what i was thinking . .

Not looking to go Tom golf cart bats, sounds like you like the Interstate brand... I was looking into Lifeline last year but don't want to spend that kind of cash
 
it sounds like they are finished.....but
1--they are full of water (distilled) is preferred if adding
2--battery posts are clean. use sand paper on the post and clamp
3--all the connections are tight
4--where the ground is connected to the frame is clean and tight. no rust or corrosion.

but it sounds like one of the above or the batteries are finished and will not hold the charge.
for as you say when plugged in the voltage is at 14.4 and when you unplug within 2 hours you are under 11-12volts.
make sure if you change the batteries you carry out steps 2-3-4 with the new ones.
also before you start disconnect the feed coming from the fuse located on the back wall. cause if you don't you may cause fuses in the unit to pop from touching and un touching the posts also it makes it a bit safer. also turn off the small battery switch.
also if you really do no know anything about electrical you might want to go to a camping world or a pep boys and have them change them.

i left you my number on a PM email
 
it sounds like they are finished.....but
1--they are full of water (distilled) is preferred if adding
2--battery posts are clean. use sand paper on the post and clamp
3--all the connections are tight
4--where the ground is connected to the frame is clean and tight. no rust or corrosion.

but it sounds like one of the above or the batteries are finished and will not hold the charge.
for as you say when plugged in the voltage is at 14.4 and when you unplug within 2 hours you are under 11-12volts.
make sure if you change the batteries you carry out steps 2-3-4 with the new ones.
also before you start disconnect the feed coming from the fuse located on the back wall. cause if you don't you may cause fuses in the unit to pop from touching and un touching the posts also it makes it a bit safer. also turn off the small battery switch.
also if you really do no know anything about electrical you might want to go to a camping world or a pep boys and have them change them.

i left you my number on a PM email

Thanks Wayne -
1-assuming they are full... sealed batteries
2-posts are clean, and tight
3-I went over every connection with a nut driver to make sure they were tight.
4-this is the only item I did not check, will do so when I get home today.

Thanks for the PM, will catch up later in the week . .
Joe
 
Well I am home and cannot find my meter... I drove 2-1/2 hrs . . The bat meter was showing at 12.1 and 3/4 full . . Once I unhooked from the truck, the bats meter was showing 11.5 and less than 1/2 full. . . I really do not know ANYTHING about electrical systems, but it sounds like i need 2 batteries. . . I have deep cell, group 31 . . From the factory ... it was the option for sine wave inverter and upgraded bats . .


Take the batteries someplace where they can load test them. The test can tell you the condition of the batteries compared to the original specifications. That is the best way to determine the real status of the batteries.
 
I had my battery changed by the dealer in the fall. After picking up the RW I drove about 40 miles unhooked extended the front jacks all the way and left.. I came back about 4 months later and plugged in and the autolevel Meter read 14.4 volts. I hit auto level and it stopped "low voltage". After being plugged in for about an hour auto level worked fine.. in the morning after being charged overnight it reads 13.3 a quick read every once in a while it always reads 13.3 it works fine as we've moved a couple of times so far this year.. all this from a new battery..


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
**** Update ****

I had my maintenance guy from the office stop by today with his battery load tester...

My front battery tested on low end of yellow . . The rear battery tested on the upper end of red - dead. . .

Off to buy 2 batteries this week, got a good price on 2 Northstar AGM group 31's .. ..

I checked all y connections again, and put a turn on all to be sure .. .
 
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changed it up

I had my maintenance guy from the office stop by today with his battery load tester...

My front battery tested on low end of yellow . . The rear battery tested on the upper end of red - dead. . .

Off to buy 2 batteries this week, got a good price on 2 Northstar AGM group 31's .. ..

I checked all y connections again, and put a turn on all to be sure .. .

was able to secure a better deal on 2 Lifeline 31T's so I will be putting them in instead of the Northstars.. The folks at Lifeline said that I just need to change my Inverter setting to AGM1 . . I have read the manual 3 times and cannot find how to change it ?? Any one here know ?

VZ9G9RXl.jpg
 
Joe,
See page 10 of the attached manual.

Ken
 

Attachments

  • ME-MR Inverter remote.pdf
    438.2 KB · Views: 33
The charge rate and Amp-hrs of your new batteries is what you want to change and quickly !

Sure you want AGM's Brad ?
My Trojan's have been perfect
...
 
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