Dealership question

[ducksface]

My lord.
Found us before purchase
Understands and ponders advice.

You are 1:10,000

If you need help or get stuck on something post here as it happens with your inspector. We can probably real-time a solution or an experience.

Have him check tire date codes and battery dates.

 

[Imflynt]

haha, will do!

I am a mechanical engineer by education, civil by profession of 35 years so I get accused of being methodical and overthinking a lot, I just have a process that works, I'm also use to dealing with project managers, construction workers and clients that try to manipulate, bully and read between the lines, so I have to be prepared for the why not question always! Knowledge and experience is key! Thank You!

 

[16ACE27]

Thanks again guys for the insight, I hired a certified independent inspection, he will do a compete inspection of the Class B RV, I will get a report with photos and if there is any reflags he will call immediately!
This will be done at the dealership, they will have it hooked up to electrical and water. The dealer had no problem with this!

An now the dealer knows they are not dealling with a rube.

 

[dkoldman]

Thanks again guys for the insight, I hired a certified independent inspection, he will do a compete inspection of the Class B RV, I will get a report with photos and if there is any reflags he will call immediately!
This will be done at the dealership, they will have it hooked up to electrical and water. The dealer had no problem with this!

I am following this to see how it goes. Never had a chance to hear of, or learn of any experiences of an Inspector & Dealership. The Dealer must know they have to convince the Inspector to have a shot at you.

Good luck.

 

[david_reaves]

Thanks again guys for the insight, I hired a certified independent inspection, he will do a compete inspection of the Class B RV, I will get a report with photos and if there is any reflags he will call immediately!
This will be done at the dealership, they will have it hooked up to electrical and water. The dealer had no problem with this!

If you can possibly swing it, attend the inspection with your independent. As duckface said earlier, it would be a tremendous advantage to you. Just watching would help you learn an ENORMOUS amount about the camper. Either way, good luck. We've been RVing for around 30 years. With patience, and some self repairs along the way, you can have a great time!

 

[dkoldman]

If you can possibly swing it, attend the inspection with your independent. As duckface said earlier, it would be a tremendous advantage to you. Just watching would help you learn an ENORMOUS amount about the camper. Either way, good luck. We've been RVing for around 30 years. With patience, and some self repairs along the way, you can have a great time!

Yes sir, even if he can't make it... he could / should proceed as if he was going to conduct the PDI himself. I would get the checklists from that App Duck referenced or from that Felkner manual. I used that Felkner manual. Just reading the list made me ask questions about some things I didn't even know about. To show how good of a Dealer I had in Florida, the Sales rep knowing of my previous failed PDIs with TMC, actually volunteered to have them check my list BEFORE we flew to Florida. I sent it to them. They sent me pictures of everything I have ever complained about that had failed to assure me. They checked the box on everything on my list. I then flew down and spent 6 hours verifying PDI for myself. I had seen enough good to not worry about the roof. If something failed after I bought it, I could handle that as that is what the warranty is for. It worked out well for us and we saved $7,500 by not buying the 5 year extended warranty. We have 6 months to go as to when that 5 year warranty would have expired if we had bought it.

This thread makes me wonder what would have happened with the RVs that I passed on if I had hired one of those Inspectors? What if they were saying it was a go That's why I say do both.

 

[Imflynt]

Ok, 4 hour inspection by a independent NRVIA inspector, the dealership had no problem with this and had it hooked up to power and water for him, tonight he emailed me an 86 page report, a hand full of more than minor things like left front axle caked in excessive grease, water tank leak, counter and cabinet damage, and a loose rear fuse box, and damaged TV. As for the rest and there are a lot of minor things, as most have stated with Thor its QC issues. He called me immediately after he completed the inspection and I did copy and send to the dealership, they agreed to fix everything. Saturday I will have the itemized document with me to follow up on before purchase! The few issues that there is with the Chassis will go to my local dodge dealer and be covered under warranty. The battery ages are 2022, the warranty on the batteries begin with vehicle is purchased!

 

[david_reaves]

Nice! It looks like a good start. Please come back when inevitable questions arise. Sadly, I'm not personally a Thor expert, but I have been motorhome or trailer camping for over 30 years. I can help on generic stuff but there are experts here-- probably on your specific camper!

 

[Jimbo56]

Ok, 4 hour inspection by a independent NRVIA inspector, the dealership had no problem with this and had it hooked up to power and water for him, tonight he emailed me an 86 page report, a hand full of more than minor things like left front axle caked in excessive grease, water tank leak, counter and cabinet damage, and a loose rear fuse box, and damaged TV. As for the rest and there are a lot of minor things, as most have stated with Thor its QC issues. He called me immediately after he completed the inspection and I did copy and send to the dealership, they agreed to fix everything. Saturday I will have the itemized document with me to follow up on before purchase! The few issues that there is with the Chassis will go to my local dodge dealer and be covered under warranty. The battery ages are 2022, the warranty on the batteries begin with vehicle is purchased!

If those batteries sat on the lot discharged, they’re toast.

 

[Mark54]

Thanks again guys for the insight, I hired a certified independent inspection, he will do a compete inspection of the Class B RV, I will get a report with photos and if there is any reflags he will call immediately!
This will be done at the dealership, they will have it hooked up to electrical and water. The dealer had no problem with this!

Sorry to come in so late- I have a 2022 Tellaro 20L, and can tell you that these were slapped together in a New York minute, and QC is terrible. Be sure your inspector has a #2 Robertson driver (square) to remove bed platforms to fully inspect.

These are not well insulated- they did the spaghetti test method with scraps of fibreglass- I have been replacing as I can, but there are areas that I cannot reach- also lots of mouse entry points in mine, that I can only hope I found all of...

Wiring is atrocious- too much used, regulator and shunt were buried in a rat's nest under pass. bed headrest, and 3 laps of 2/0 cable to the Combimaster. I have since shortened all those and mounted the components up high to access. I think I removed about 50# of battery cage and wires. Too much romex used too to outlets.

Coachmen class B's are much better.
My shades were falling off as I drove off the lot- expecting a #8 screw to hold in 1/4" rubber is not a thing. I have installed curtains since.

Lastly- DO NOT fall for the extended warranty at $10k!!! This is a total scam and how dealer makes any money.

If you can get this for under $130k, might be worth it, but you better know how to fix everything as I do. AC/DC electrical and auto repair under my belt.

As for spare- go to Landed Gear and get the carrier for the LR cargo door, and then eBay for a Ram Promaster wheel (1500,2500,3500) and then go get a matching tire at the tire shop, or from Simpletire. Also get a cover for that. They now come with the plate holder, that I finally added last fall.

https://landedgear.com/collections/spare-tire-rack-and-equipment/products/promastersparetiremount

PM me for more info. I have moved my batteries off the bottom and upgraded to 600Ah Weize (two 300's) battery and relocated all the electrics up under my pass. side bed. Now I can remove for storage and keep maintained.

I also added a Balmar SG200 gateway and phone app to make changes and monitor, as well as an MPPT solar controller. More than 70 mods/additions to date. Purchased in Jan, 2022.
The Promaster is great- I used to have to get out and push my 2001 Rialta over hills- not any more!

 

[Mark54]

If those batteries sat on the lot discharged, they’re toast.

As Jimbo56 said-probably DOA on batteries.
Lithium batteries should be stored at 50% if longer than 3 months. Ok to have them go to 0%, but only if they are recharged immediately afterwards, and probably need a jump from a 13.6V source.

I store mine indoors as mentioned, at 50% and cycle 50-100-50% every 3 months.
If those are AGMs- replace immediately.

As you are finding out- these are a QC nightmare. Beware. QC issues won't go away even after dealer 'fixes'.

 

[Judge64]

Sorry to come in so late- I have a 2022 Tellaro 20L, and can tell you that these were slapped together in a New York minute, and QC is terrible. Be sure your inspector has a #2 Robertson driver (square) to remove bed platforms to fully inspect.

These are not well insulated- they did the spaghetti test method with scraps of fibreglass- I have been replacing as I can, but there are areas that I cannot reach- also lots of mouse entry points in mine, that I can only hope I found all of...

Wiring is atrocious- too much used, regulator and shunt were buried in a rat's nest under pass. bed headrest, and 3 laps of 2/0 cable to the Combimaster. I have since shortened all those and mounted the components up high to access. I think I removed about 50# of battery cage and wires. Too much romex used too to outlets.

Coachmen class B's are much better.

I recently purchased a '24 Dynamax Isata 3 24FWSFX Freedom Edition (another Forest River Division like Coachmen). After owning a couple Thor products I am very pleased with how much better the design, fit / finish and quality is compared to the Thor's I've owned.

It is also amazing how little things make such a big difference:

- The wiring isn't a rats nest. It is much cleaner and Dynamax even put a legend over key electrical components in the electronics bay like the breakers for the levelers and main breaker (pic attached) to make them easy to idenitify.

- There is easy access to the water pump, water filter and fresh water tank drain.

- There is fairly easy access to most of components for the key systems. My only complaint is access to the leveler power unit is under the coach and not through an outer compartment door.... but the positive side is I gained storage space I would have otherwise lost having it in a storage compartment. I'd rather have the extra storage space outside after downsizing.

- The people designing the coach actually thought about making it easier for people to setup the coach by designing it so you can stand up instead of being bent over to connect shore power, city water, black tank flush and cable. You can also access the outdoor shower and the valve to switch from city water to filling the fresh water tank standing up.The only low connection point is the sewer, which really can't be placed at a standing level.


None of this is rocket science or requires a huge price increase to make it happen. It's just having the commitment to doing things better for the customer and making sure the employees work to meet that commitment.

 

[Imflynt]

Thanks for the input! question, on the landing gear carrier, I assume that the door has to be drilled and the hanger mounts to the door skin? My preference is not to drill anything into any panel, please correct me if I’m wrong about mounting.

 

[Mark54]

Thanks for the input! question, on the landing gear carrier, I assume that the door has to be drilled and the hanger mounts to the door skin? My preference is not to drill anything into any panel, please correct me if I’m wrong about mounting.

That is correct-need to drill the door- Option is to use the bike rack, but first must remove and re-install b/c they did not use Sikaflex 252 or any other adhesive as spec'd by Thule on mine- see if yours doesn't just fall off- mine was dry and paint was damaged underneath.
Find your Thule XT2 manual and read the instructions. Mfr sure didn't.
If you cannot find- PM me for email so I can send you a copy.


I wanted my spare lower b/c it's heavy to lift off that high for me... (70 yrs old)

 

[Mark54]

I recently purchased a '24 Dynamax Isata 3 24FWSFX Freedom Edition (another Forest River Division like Coachmen). After owning a couple Thor products I am very pleased with how much better the design, fit / finish and quality is compared to the Thor's I've owned.

It is also amazing how little things make such a big difference:

- The wiring isn't a rats nest. It is much cleaner and Dynamax even put a legend over key electrical components in the electronics bay like the breakers for the levelers and main breaker (pic attached) to make them easy to idenitify.

- There is easy access to the water pump, water filter and fresh water tank drain.

- There is fairly easy access to most of components for the key systems. My only complaint is access to the leveler power unit is under the coach and not through an outer compartment door.... but the positive side is I gained storage space I would have otherwise lost having it in a storage compartment. I'd rather have the extra storage space outside after downsizing.

- The people designing the coach actually thought about making it easier for people to setup the coach by designing it so you can stand up instead of being bent over to connect shore power, city water, black tank flush and cable. You can also access the outdoor shower and the valve to switch from city water to filling the fresh water tank standing up.The only low connection point is the sewer, which really can't be placed at a standing level.


None of this is rocket science or requires a huge price increase to make it happen. It's just having the commitment to doing things better for the customer and making sure the employees work to meet that commitment.

This is what mine looked like. Glad yours didn't.
Before and after pics.
3rd pic- find the regulator and shunt...!

 

[Mark54]

I recently purchased a '24 Dynamax Isata 3 24FWSFX Freedom Edition (another Forest River Division like Coachmen). After owning a couple Thor products I am very pleased with how much better the design, fit / finish and quality is compared to the Thor's I've owned.

It is also amazing how little things make such a big difference:

- The wiring isn't a rats nest. It is much cleaner and Dynamax even put a legend over key electrical components in the electronics bay like the breakers for the levelers and main breaker (pic attached) to make them easy to idenitify.

- There is easy access to the water pump, water filter and fresh water tank drain.

- There is fairly easy access to most of components for the key systems. My only complaint is access to the leveler power unit is under the coach and not through an outer compartment door.... but the positive side is I gained storage space I would have otherwise lost having it in a storage compartment. I'd rather have the extra storage space outside after downsizing.

- The people designing the coach actually thought about making it easier for people to setup the coach by designing it so you can stand up instead of being bent over to connect shore power, city water, black tank flush and cable. You can also access the outdoor shower and the valve to switch from city water to filling the fresh water tank standing up.The only low connection point is the sewer, which really can't be placed at a standing level.


None of this is rocket science or requires a huge price increase to make it happen. It's just having the commitment to doing things better for the customer and making sure the employees work to meet that commitment.

The water tank drain access was bad in the 20AT and the 20L. I solved by modding the electrical panel on the end of the bed platform- see that slot at the bottom? If you're ET, you might get your hand in there to turn the valve... I added a hinged door for that... Now I can not only reach that valve, I can access the fuses behind the wall w/o lifting the entire bed platform.

 

[ducksface]

Your mods are much more sophisticated than mine.

 

[Judge64]

The water tank drain access was bad in the 20AT and the 20L. I solved by modding the electrical panel on the end of the bed platform- see that slot at the bottom? If you're ET, you might get your hand in there to turn the valve... I added a hinged door for that... Now I can not only reach that valve, I can access the fuses behind the wall w/o lifting the entire bed platform.

You did very nice work on your mods!

You are much like me.... Thor drove me nuts with the stuff they did and I ended up doing a lot of my own work to do things the right way. Fortunately I will have very little to improve upon in terms of Dynamax's work on my new coach.

Copper costs a fortune these days (15 feet of 10/2 Romex is $65 at Home Depots) and then you see them waste wiring with longer runs than needed. On top of that they often use undersized wiring as well.

 

[Imflynt]

Gotcha! Ya I won’t be using the Thule for the spare either I figure the weight would be to much, I’m looking at the ultra swing mega atm, tire and table combo, kind $$$$, might make my own, definitely want a spare though!

 

[Mark54]

Gotcha! Ya I won’t be using the Thule for the spare either I figure the weight would be to much, I’m looking at the ultra swing mega atm, tire and table combo, kind $$$$, might make my own, definitely want a spare though!

There are hinge mounted ones, and hitch swing-out ones as well. I'd look at this one (aluminess) if I were to do it over- the door skin is thinner than I like, even tho there are internal stiffeners- still 'oilcans' when operating the door, which is rare- I usually only open the RR door.
The Thule is designed to carry 70#, so spare is not an issue- it's the height and lack of adhesive on the crossbars, that I have since fixed. I now have a box up there, and just moved my sewer tube below that box, and am refitting my Yakima carrier to a Rola box that Amazon is selling for $217 instead of $800+. I think they went out of business, and this is a closeout... but I like it! I adapted the Yakima cleats to an aluminum frame to carry the Rola box- much deeper than the Yakima.
I also like that the base of thee Rola has lights built in, instead of a $200 light add-on for the Yakima.

(the white beehive is a weather station sensor, and strap on lid is for lifting/moving the box)

https://www.aluminess.com/products/driver-side-rear-box-tire-rack-promaster/