Dual A/C on 30 AMP option?

[Muggs]

Anybody have a Class C with dual A/C on 30 amp service option?

 

[rtaggio]

I DO NOT have dual a/c's but I think it may be doable with soft starts. I can run my single a/c on batteries and I am drawing about 140 amps at 12v, so I'm just guessing that 2x is still less than 30 amps @ 120v.

FWIW, I am anything but an electric wiz, so use my info with loads of caution.

 

[Jimbo56]

We added a 2nd 13,500 Coleman Mach 3 non ducted to the front vent hole. It has a separate 30 amp breaker and must be plugged into shore post to work. So it’s not connected to the RV’s electrical system. In 95 degree high humidity southeast US weather, I can hang meat with just this unit. I also just added a heat element to it as well.

 

[Muggs]

Thanks.

I saw some Thor Genevas on MHSRV site that had a dual A/C option on 30 amp from factory. I am curious to see if anyone bought one yet and how they are doing with it.

 

[EA37TS]

Thanks.

I saw some Thor Genevas on MHSRV site that had a dual A/C option on 30 amp from factory. I am curious to see if anyone bought one yet and how they are doing with it.

The dual option is for 11k AC units so it should do ok on 30 amp.

 

[DavidEM]

I am not an electrical wiz, but reasonably competent. Your existing A/C is probably 15,000 btu and draws about 15A. Obviously you can’t install another one like it and run it simultaneously on a 30A circuit.

But you can probably install a 9,000 btu unit. The Coleman Mach 8 produces 9,200 btu and draws 8.9 amps which should work in conjunction with your existing A/C. But make sure your batteries are fully charged or the converter will overload that circuit. And don’t run the microwave or any other high current draw appliance.

David

 

[Jimbo56]

I think the big picture would be how much juice you have left, while running 2 AC units, to run other devices. Such as a microwave, induction cooktop, etc.

 

[16ACE27]

Not a Class C but my ACE is 30 amp and I added a 13.5K BTU non-ducted unit in the bedroom. I wired it so I have the capability to run it either from its own separate SP connection or from the RV's integrated 120 VAC system (primarily for running the bedroom A/C on the generator). Down here in the south it can take all day to cool off a heated-up RV in the summertime with a single A/C. I have run both A/Cs on 30 amp SP to coll off the coach when arriving at a campsite. You can't run anything else including putting the absorption fridge on gas until you have the temperature down and then the OEM 15K can maintain it. With both A/Cs running the RV is usually pulling 27 to 29 amps.

 

[Muggs]

Appreciate the thoughts.

Really looking for somebody who has one of these new setups with the smaller dual A/Cs to get impression of performance.

Have buddy that is not internet type who is looking for new bigger class C. He asked me to see if any reviews on effectiveness.

 

[16ACE27]

Appreciate the thoughts.

Really looking for somebody who has one of these new setups with the smaller dual A/Cs to get impression of performance.

Have buddy that is not internet type who is looking for new bigger class C. He asked me to see if any reviews on effectiveness.

A couple of years ago, when they first came out with the dual 11K A/C units on 30 amp RVs, there were a couple of threads on them. I'm not sure performance data came up in those threads.

 

[tomjsas]

Appreciate the thoughts.

Really looking for somebody who has one of these new setups with the smaller dual A/Cs to get impression of performance.

Have buddy that is not internet type who is looking for new bigger class C. He asked me to see if any reviews on effectiveness.

Our 2023 Thor Quantum KW29 is one of the 30 amp units with dual A/C (11k) units. So far we have found that they are able to keep the coach at a decent temperature. What I have found is that the digital thermostat needs to be set for a much higher set point (like 76 degrees) or they tend to freeze you out. The coach isn't that large and so it doesn't take much to cool it off.

 

[Muggs]

Our 2023 Thor Quantum KW29 is one of the 30 amp units with dual A/C (11k) units. So far we have found that they are able to keep the coach at a decent temperature. What I have found is that the digital thermostat needs to be set for a much higher set point (like 76 degrees) or they tend to freeze you out. The coach isn't that large and so it doesn't take much to cool it off.

That exactly what I was looking for, thank you.

 

[jerrykovacs]

I have 2024 Quantum KW29. Both ac's running with coffee pot and microwave. No problem. Thought I might need softstart, but not yet.

 

[thisoldman]

The factory unit in our 30 amp Class C is a ducted, centrally located 13,500 BTU Coleman. A couple of years ago I installed a second, non-ducted 11,000 BTU Coleman in the location previously occupied by the rear crank-up roof vent and added premium soft start units to both ACs to limit the startup current draw. There were no unused breaker slots in the 120V panel so I replaced the 15 amp breaker that provided power for the inductive cooktop with a split 15 amp/20 amp breaker to restore the 15 amp circuit for the cooktop and to provide a dedicated 20 amp circuit for the second AC. Both ACs run simultaneously without issue but, not surprisingly, trying to use either the inductive cooktop or the microwave at the same time that both ACs are running trips the main breaker. (Oops!) This is expected behavior and a demonstration that the overall circuit protection is working exactly as it should. I regularly monitor the current draw and everything stays within reasonable limits, even when the residential fridge clicks on and its compressor starts up.

Incidentally, the 11K BTU unit seems to have even more cooling power than the factory 13.5K BTU unit. Go figure...

 

[Muggs]

Thanks for all the input.

 

[HMCSW]

The factory unit in our 30 amp Class C is a ducted, centrally located 13,500 BTU Coleman. A couple of years ago I installed a second, non-ducted 11,000 BTU Coleman in the location previously occupied by the rear crank-up roof vent and added premium soft start units to both ACs to limit the startup current draw. There were no unused breaker slots in the 120V panel so I replaced the 15 amp breaker that provided power for the inductive cooktop with a split 15 amp/20 amp breaker to restore the 15 amp circuit for the cooktop and to provide a dedicated 20 amp circuit for the second AC. Both ACs run simultaneously without issue but, not surprisingly, trying to use either the inductive cooktop or the microwave at the same time that both ACs are running trips the main breaker. (Oops!) This is expected behavior and a demonstration that the overall circuit protection is working exactly as it should. I regularly monitor the current draw and everything stays within reasonable limits, even when the residential fridge clicks on and its compressor starts up.

Incidentally, the 11K BTU unit seems to have even more cooling power than the factory 13.5K BTU unit. Go figure...

The factory looses efficacy( cold/heat) through the ducts.

 

[thisoldman]

The factory looses efficacy( cold/heat) through the ducts.

True, but even with all of the ceiling ducts closed the 13.5K BTU unit doesn't seem to cool as effectively through the two main outlets on its grill as does the 11K unit through the two ducts on its grill. Perhaps the older unit has lost a touch of freon over the years. Whatever the reason, that's what I've observed.