F53 owners, have your front wheel bearings checked

Dan-sr@perra-us.net

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 2, 2022
Messages
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Location
Cedar Rapids
This is a warning to F53 Chassis motorhome owners. I have a 2018 Thor ACE 30.3.

On my way home from my winter trip I had a right front wheel bearing fail while traveling at 70MPH on I20 in west Texas about 70 miles west of Midland Texas. The coach tried to make a hard right turn, my decision to install the Safe-T-Plus steering stabilizer probably saved me from wreaking the coach. Fortunately, it happened near an exit with a Pilot truck stop. We ended up stuck in that parking lot for about 10 days waiting for parts that I had to have delivered from Dallas. The Bearing failure also damaged the wheel spindle, that was the part that was difficult to find.

Now here is part two of the story. Once I returned home, I took my coach into the shop for its after-trip service and to have the alignment checked I also had the front wheel bearings checked and repacked. When they disassembled the left side they found that the left wheel bearings were going bad as well. The problems with both front wheel bearings were likely caused by insufficient lubrication at the factory. My coach now has only 14,000 miles.
The Ford F53 Owner's manual calls for repacking the front wheel bearings at 30,000 miles.

This is the second lubrication problem I have had with my coach. The first was worn out kingpin bushings at 3900 miles just after I purchased the coach in 2022. Again, the problem was caused by insufficient lubrication.

WARNING to all F53 Chassis owner's, have your wheel bearing checked for wear and professionally repacked, it may save your life.
 
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Thanks for this timely post Dan. I am still trying to figure out where to take our 2021 ACE 33.1 for front end inspection and/or repair. I am no mechanic by any means. But I sometimes feel a metal to metal, hard banging when I hit potholes and braking at the same time. I really would like to have ALL front components inspected. We now have 21K miles. Care to post or send me an IM on the cost of the KingPin work?

I was quoted $960 for 3 hr Diagnostic Fee (at $270/hr + shop supplies) at a local FORD Truck Shop in Vegas. This is the ONLY place that will work on RV. But the place is packed. They don't make appointments. Drop off the unit. They will work on it when they can.
 
Thanks for this timely post Dan. I am still trying to figure out where to take our 2021 ACE 33.1 for front end inspection and/or repair. I am no mechanic by any means. But I sometimes feel a metal to metal, hard banging when I hit potholes and braking at the same time. I really would like to have ALL front components inspected. We now have 21K miles. Care to post or send me an IM on the cost of the KingPin work?

I was quoted $960 for 3 hr Diagnostic Fee (at $270/hr + shop supplies) at a local FORD Truck Shop in Vegas. This is the ONLY place that will work on RV. But the place is packed. They don't make appointments. Drop off the unit. They will work on it when they can.

If I remember correctly the cost was near $4000.00 but that included installing a Safe-T-Plus steering stabilizer, wheel alignment, chassis service and oil change.

What really ticked me off was that the extended service contract I purchased when I got the coach did not cover the kingpin repair.
 
Thanks for the information on the cost. I already installed Safe-T-Plus steering stabilizer a while back.

But I need to have them inspect the front end components (now to include the front bearings). I know it won't be cheap. But I am worried of leaving the RV around and in between those huge trucks at RUSH Ford Truck Center. I guess I just have to roll the dice (espcially I am in Vegas).
 
Thanks for the information on the cost. I already installed Safe-T-Plus steering stabilizer a while back.

But I need to have them inspect the front end components (now to include the front bearings). I know it won't be cheap. But I am worried of leaving the RV around and in between those huge trucks at RUSH Ford Truck Center. I guess I just have to roll the dice (espcially I am in Vegas).

It is probably good that you have a Ford dealer that will work on it. Here in Cedar Rapids none of the dealers will work on motorhomes. Fortunately, I have a family-owned independent shop that works on anything from VW bugs (the original ones from the 60's) all the way up to 18-wheeler tractors. If you are interested here is their web site.

https://autotruckcenter.net/

BTW I was in Las Vegas part of January and February this year. And I will be again in March 2025
 
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NHTSA update

I have opened an incident for the failed wheel bearing with NHTSA. Anyone who has recently had this problem please file a report with NHTSA. Not only could it save you out of pocket for repairs, but it could also literally save your life.

One other note when I attempted to use the online portal to report the problem it would not accept my VIN. I had to call in to report it over that phone.

The NHTSA website is:

https://www.nhtsa.gov/report-a-safety-problem#vehicle/vehicle-information

The contact number if you can't get the web page to work is:
888-327-4236
 
I have opened an incident for the failed wheel bearing with NHTSA. Anyone who has recently had this problem please file a report with NHTSA. Not only could it save you out of pocket for repairs, but it could also literally save your life.

One other note when I attempted to use the online portal to report the problem it would not accept my VIN. I had to call in to report it over that phone.

The NHTSA website is:

https://www.nhtsa.gov/report-a-safety-problem#vehicle/vehicle-information

The contact number if you can't get the web page to work is:
888-327-4236

Dan, I’m at a loss to understand why the wheel bearing failure is a Thor issue. Whoever replaced the king pins had the opportunity to inspect the wheel bearings as the rotors had to be pulled to access the kingpins. If the king pins were dry, the bearings probably were as well. You were out of warranty. I pull mine in my driveway to pack while I’m lubing the front end.
 
I dropped off my RV at a local Truck Shop this Monday for the Rear Stabilizer Bracket Recall and some computer program recall. Two other concerns I have are the "clunking" sound I hear/feel when going over road bumps or potholes and vibration between 20-25MPH. I was originally quoted 3Hrs to diagnose at $270/hr and shop supply fees. I also mentioned about the King Pin and Repacking of my front bearings.

I received a quote 2 days ago for for the Front Wheel Bearing repacking. I almost had a heart attack. That job alone was going to be $1,900+, of which $1,620 for labor, $150 for parts and some change for shop supplies. I drove to the shop yesterday to speak to the mechanic. The mechanic told me that He don't believe I really need that done right now since he don't feel anything on the wheel (slack or movement). But he will do it if I really want to and I have to pay the price I was quoted. I declined the job and decide to just do it around 30K miles, as recommended on the FORD manual. He also suggested to have the front wheel balanced. That may be the cause of the vibration.

I picked up the RV today and paid $560 for Diagnosis (which is about 2Hrs).
 
Dan, I’m at a loss to understand why the wheel bearing failure is a Thor issue. Whoever replaced the king pins had the opportunity to inspect the wheel bearings as the rotors had to be pulled to access the kingpins. If the king pins were dry, the bearings probably were as well. You were out of warranty. I pull mine in my driveway to pack while I’m lubing the front end.

I haven't done it, but I was an NIASE certified mechanic in my first career; and I don't see where the wheel bearings need to be exposed to replace king pins.



W8007225-1-1000x1000_0.jpg
 
I dropped off my RV at a local Truck Shop this Monday for the Rear Stabilizer Bracket Recall and some computer program recall. Two other concerns I have are the "clunking" sound I hear/feel when going over road bumps or potholes and vibration between 20-25MPH. I was originally quoted 3Hrs to diagnose at $270/hr and shop supply fees. I also mentioned about the King Pin and Repacking of my front bearings.

I received a quote 2 days ago for for the Front Wheel Bearing repacking. I almost had a heart attack. That job alone was going to be $1,900+, of which $1,620 for labor, $150 for parts and some change for shop supplies. I drove to the shop yesterday to speak to the mechanic. The mechanic told me that He don't believe I really need that done right now since he don't feel anything on the wheel (slack or movement). But he will do it if I really want to and I have to pay the price I was quoted. I declined the job and decide to just do it around 30K miles, as recommended on the FORD manual. He also suggested to have the front wheel balanced. That may be the cause of the vibration.

I picked up the RV today and paid $560 for Diagnosis (which is about 2Hrs).

If you hear squeaking Get the wheel bearings checked immediately. Once the squeaking starts you have about 100 miles before failure. I heard the squeaking, but I did not realize it was coming from my coach. It was at a DHS checkpoint on I10 west of El Passo. Too many other vehicles around making noise. Also not after my trip I had my mechanic check the left side front wheel bearings and found that bearing was going bad. Until this incident I would have waited till 30,000 miles as well. In my opinion the Ford guidance needs a time reference as well as a miles reference. In the case of my coach, I should have had the wheel bearings examined shortly after I purchased it in 2022 if only because it was nearly 5 years old ( 2018 model assembled December 2017 ) with only 3900 miles. My coach is an example of the types of problems you encounter with low milage vehicles.
 
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I haven't done it, but I was an NIASE certified mechanic in my first career; and I don't see where the wheel bearings need to be exposed to replace king pins.



W8007225-1-1000x1000_0.jpg

Thank you! My thoughts as well but since I was a computer programmer, a sort of software mechanic I do not have the mechanical background knowledge you have to support that position. :thumb:
 
I haven't done it, but I was an NIASE certified mechanic in my first career; and I don't see where the wheel bearings need to be exposed to replace king pins.



W8007225-1-1000x1000_0.jpg

I don't know if the rotor would need to be removed either; as another former NIASE certified mechanic in a former career. However, I think if I were doing the job, based on your schematic, I would want the extra room of having the rotor out of my way. They may have pulled the rotor and never bothered to inspect the bearings would be my WAG.
 
I don't know if the rotor would need to be removed either; as another former NIASE certified mechanic in a former career. However, I think if I were doing the job, based on your schematic, I would want the extra room of having the rotor out of my way. They may have pulled the rotor and never bothered to inspect the bearings would be my WAG.

I would never pull a rotor and disturb the front bearings on a front end job unless required and included in the job description to clean and repack. You open up that can of worms you better de-worm it fully or you will be blamed for any subsequent failure, even if not your fault.
 
If you hear squeaking Get the wheel bearings checked immediately. Once the squeaking starts you have about 100 miles before failure. I heard the squeaking, but I did not realize it was coming from my coach. It was at a DHS checkpoint on I10 west of El Passo. Too many other vehicles around making noise. Also not after my trip I had my mechanic check the left side front wheel bearings and found that bearing was going bad. Until this incident I would have waited till 30,000 miles as well. In my opinion the Ford guidance needs a time reference as well as a miles reference. In the case of my coach, I should have had the wheel bearings examined shortly after I purchased it in 2022 if only because it was nearly 5 years old ( 2018 model assembled December 2017 ) with only 3900 miles. My coach is an example of the types of problems you encounter with low milage vehicles.
I don't think a bearing going bad at 3900 miles has anything to do with low mileage use. Improper pre-load/lube is more likely. I recall reading about improperly installed bearings around that model year.

A properly installed wheel bearing on an F53 should last at least the 60K recommended service interval (30K is severe service which is rare). Flat towing is not going to affect the front wheel bearings. Maybe driving dirt roads a lot. I'll get mine serviced at 60K, if then.
 
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I dropped off my RV at a local Truck Shop this Monday for the Rear Stabilizer Bracket Recall and some computer program recall. Two other concerns I have are the "clunking" sound I hear/feel when going over road bumps or potholes and vibration between 20-25MPH. I was originally quoted 3Hrs to diagnose at $270/hr and shop supply fees. I also mentioned about the King Pin and Repacking of my front bearings.

I received a quote 2 days ago for for the Front Wheel Bearing repacking. I almost had a heart attack. That job alone was going to be $1,900+, of which $1,620 for labor, $150 for parts and some change for shop supplies. I drove to the shop yesterday to speak to the mechanic. The mechanic told me that He don't believe I really need that done right now since he don't feel anything on the wheel (slack or movement). But he will do it if I really want to and I have to pay the price I was quoted. I declined the job and decide to just do it around 30K miles, as recommended on the FORD manual. He also suggested to have the front wheel balanced. That may be the cause of the vibration.

I picked up the RV today and paid $560 for Diagnosis (which is about 2Hrs).

I just got the bill for my wheel repack and exam which also included replacing the going bad front wheel bearings on the side that did not blowup on my trip. The bill also included an oil change including air and oil filters for both the chassis engine and the generator and a front-end lube job and alignment all for about $2000.00 parts and labor.
 
I would never pull a rotor and disturb the front bearings on a front end job unless required and included in the job description to clean and repack. You open up that can of worms you better de-worm it fully or you will be blamed for any subsequent failure, even if not your fault.

We will agree to disagree ACE! :) Looking at Youtube videos of king pin replacement, the videos posted show the rotors are removed.
 
I don’t see a potential problem with pulling rotors to give more room. I pull my rotors every spring to check and pack bearings. I’m pulling calipers anyway to visually inspect brake pad surfaces. So pulling rotor only requires replacing with new seals. I’m not NIASE. But I am a certified PM believer. But to each his/her own.
 
I don’t see a potential problem with pulling rotors to give more room. I pull my rotors every spring to check and pack bearings. I’m pulling calipers anyway to visually inspect brake pad surfaces. So pulling rotor only requires replacing with new seals. I’m not NIASE. But I am a certified PM believer. But to each his/her own.

The issue is not pulling rotors if you are doing your own work. The issue is the PAID mechanic not doing what he isn't PAID to do and in the same work open himself up for future liability.
 

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