Front Wheel Alignment

[nsraja]

I called multiple Ford dealers that showed up in Commercial Truck listing and none is willing/capable of doing the alignment. I managed to get someone in the Woodlands area and he is saying it is a very common problem and that he will likely need to shim the wheel. So his quote is

$360 for alignment
$60 for shim
+ 4 hours labor.

Total cost is $780.

Any thoughts? Or recommendations in the Houston area? I took my RV for alignment to Southern Tire ($200) and they did alignment work and replaced the left front wheel (which still seem to have a mild inner wear) but I wonder if they also introduced the inner wear on the right wheel (which is so bad that the right tire runs hotter than the left). To give some wear perspective, before the visit to Southern Tire last year, both tires had 20000 miles, left required replacement (I noticed it while installing LED lights), after the visit and at 28000 miles, the left has a mild inner wear, the right required a replacement at 28000.

 

[Beau388]

I called multiple Ford dealers that showed up in Commercial Truck listing and none is willing/capable of doing the alignment. I managed to get someone in the Woodlands area and he is saying it is a very common problem and that he will likely need to shim the wheel. So his quote is

$360 for alignment
$60 for shim
+ 4 hours labor.

Total cost is $780.

Any thoughts? Or recommendations in the Houston area? I took my RV for alignment to Southern Tire ($200) and they did alignment work and replaced the left front wheel (which still seem to have a mild inner wear) but I wonder if they also introduced the inner wear on the right wheel (which is so bad that the right tire runs hotter than the left). To give some wear perspective, before the visit to Southern Tire last year, both tires had 20000 miles, left required replacement (I noticed it while installing LED lights), after the visit and at 28000 miles, the left has a mild inner wear, the right required a replacement at 28000.

The shim kit is used adjust the solid axle's caster, as the king pin angle is fixed. The only other normal adjustment is toe. Camber adjustment takes a frame jig, a torch and an axle wrench. The greater the caster the better the coach will track (up to a point where it doesn't). 5 degrees is a good starting point of a 180 to 220 inch wheelbase coach. Zero toe is great for tire wear, but the coach will wander. A little toe-in will make the coach track better, but turn-in worse. A good shop will check the tracking (that rear axle placement on the springs is inline with the frame). This can be done with string lines, but a modern shop will use lights and mirrors. Nothing like going to the Alemite alignment school (1956) with a bunch of old guys.

 

[16ACE27]

The shim kit is used adjust the solid axle's caster, as the king pin angle is fixed. The only other normal adjustment is toe. Camber adjustment takes a frame jig, a torch and an axle wrench. The greater the caster the better the coach will track (up to a point where it doesn't). 5 degrees is a good starting point of a 180 to 220 inch wheelbase coach. Zero toe is great for tire wear, but the coach will wander. A little toe-in will make the coach track better, but turn-in worse. A good shop will check the tracking (that rear axle placement on the springs is inline with the frame). This can be done with string lines, but a modern shop will use lights and mirrors. Nothing like going to the Alemite alignment school (1956) with a bunch of old guys.

I think what you said applies to an F53 chassis, not an E-series chassis.

But I could be wrong.

 

[Beau388]

I think what you said applies to an F53 chassis, not an E-series chassis.

But I could be wrong.

Oops, my mistake.

 

[Jimbo56]

The shim kit is used adjust the solid axle's caster, as the king pin angle is fixed. The only other normal adjustment is toe. Camber adjustment takes a frame jig, a torch and an axle wrench. The greater the caster the better the coach will track (up to a point where it doesn't). 5 degrees is a good starting point of a 180 to 220 inch wheelbase coach. Zero toe is great for tire wear, but the coach will wander. A little toe-in will make the coach track better, but turn-in worse. A good shop will check the tracking (that rear axle placement on the springs is inline with the frame). This can be done with string lines, but a modern shop will use lights and mirrors. Nothing like going to the Alemite alignment school (1956) with a bunch of old guys.

Just like Ford light trucks with the twin Ibeam front suspension. A good shop will tell you what the caster and camber specs are currently. They give you an estimate if camber/caster adjustment is needed. Sounds like the OP has a camber issue that no one has addressed. Some shops will tell you that all they can do is set toe. And if front end is not set with the rear, it can cause the vehicle to “ dog walk” scrubbing off one inside and the other outside front tire. I went to a shop in Salisbury NC, Salem Fleet Services. The tech knew what he was doing. $175

 

[nsraja]

Just like Ford light trucks with the twin Ibeam front suspension. A good shop will tell you what the caster and camber specs are currently. They give you an estimate if camber/caster adjustment is needed. Sounds like the OP has a camber issue that no one has addressed. Some shops will tell you that all they can do is set toe. And if front end is not set with the rear, it can cause the vehicle to “ dog walk” scrubbing off one inside and the other outside front tire. I went to a shop in Salisbury NC, Salem Fleet Services. The tech knew what he was doing. $175

When I had to replace the left tire due to inner wear, the vehicle was pulling to one side. After alignment, the left tire is still having mild inner wear but the right is wearing faster and also gets hotter than left. The RV is no longer pulling to any side, other than wind related pull. Which is what makes me think the camber is bad, but if the camber is not adjustable (other than by bending the axle) I am clueless. I guess I have to take it to Southern Tire again, I will be sure to ask them about caster and camber readings. With both tires replaced with 121R load index, I would not mind replacing the tires every 20k, it is the right tire getting hotter than left that concerns me the most. With this condition I drove 1000 miles (Albuquerque to Houston), I am not sure if I am making a big deal about the right being hotter than the left, it is a noticeable difference when I put my hand on the tires soon after coming to a stop.