Front wheels off the ground...for weeks?

CRPerle

Advanced Member
Joined
May 22, 2024
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94
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Atlantic Beach
Hey again. I searched, I promise, and didn't see a consensus here. Our RV park moved us to a somewhat less level site and our front wheels are 6 inches off the ground with front jacks maxxed out. We can't move to another campground and plan to be here for 6 weeks or more.

I've had wheels up before, without issue, but not for weeks on end. I did purchase some wood planks to shim under the wheels, but not sure they do any good, maybe take some weight off shocks and jacks.

Any ideas here? I can block a bit more under the front jacks so they aren't maxxed out, but the wheels would still be off the ground. We are on good pavement, so now worries about settling


Thanks in advance!
 
I would make sure I had enough wood underneath the front wheels so that the front levelers are not supporting the coach. I would then raise the front Levelers enough for the wheels to sit on the blocks, then lower the levelers just enough to touch the pavement. No way would I have the coach supported by just the Levelers, this is dangerous and asking for trouble.
 
I would make sure I had enough wood underneath the front wheels so that the front levelers are not supporting the coach. I would then raise the front Levelers enough for the wheels to sit on the blocks, then lower the levelers just enough to touch the pavement. No way would I have the coach supported by just the Levelers, this is dangerous and asking for trouble.
Is there a way, on a Lippert leveling system, to lower a pair of jacks? I have not seen that function on my leveling system. I have a retract button. If i press that after turning on the panel all jacks automatically completely retract. If I put it in MANUAK mode first, then pushing the retract button retarctas all jacks only for as long as I press the button.

For the OP: If you AUTO leveled, start over and MANUAL level the RV. Normally, it will be level at a lower height.

Levelers ARE meant to hold the weight of the coach. You just don't want rear wheels off the ground because that disables the emergency brake effect.

Leaving the suspension hanging for 6 weeks is extreme. It should not cause any suspension damage but it probably isn't good for any rubber components that are stressed by this.

If MANUAL leveling doesn't work get some 2x6s and cut them up for support blocks for the hanging wheels.
 
Extend the Levelers all the way till the front wheels are completely off the ground where you feel the coach is level. Then build up both wheels with wood to the bottom of the tires. Retract the front Levelers, and then manually lower them till they touch the ground and take some weight off the wood so you have an even balance. This way you’re covered on both ends, if the Wood lets go, the Levelers will keep the coach up, but you don’t have full weight on those Levelers. And of course, do not let the back wheels raise off the ground.
 
Is there a way, on a Lippert leveling system, to lower a pair of jacks? I have not seen that function on my leveling system.

I can on mine (Lippert Level-Up). Just put it manual, press RETRACT, then press the arrow key corresponding to the jack pair you want retracted.

If i press that after turning on the panel all jacks automatically completely retract.

Mine takes a long press of the RETRACT to execute the auto-RETRACT (while NOT in manual mode).
 
I can on mine (Lippert Level-Up). Just put it manual, press RETRACT, then press the arrow key corresponding to the jack pair you want retracted.



Mine takes a long press of the RETRACT to execute the auto-RETRACT (while NOT in manual mode).
I'll have to try that on mine.
 
If you can drive up on a couple two by sixes or eights before leveling, I would do that. Then I would put cribbing under the jacks, so the rams don't have to extend as far, then level the coach. After leveling I would see if I needed to make any adjustments with the lumber.
We carry an assortment of 2x8x12 & 2x6x12 chunks of lumber for this very reason. Just don't use treated lumber so when they break, which they inevitably do, you can roast marshmallows over them in the fire pit. Anyway, that's what works for us, your results may vary:)
 
Try using ideas from this video as a guide. Key takeaway is not depending solely on the hydraulic jacks for support. Once level, use auxiliary screw support jacks to support the frame. Additional blocking can also be used.

Although it looks janky, leaving the suspension extended for long periods will not cause harm. I have yet to find any FACTUAL proof otherwise.

 
I am not clear on why the concern. is it a leveling issue? or, the wheels up? I understand being level. why a concern with wheels up? I like wheels up, keeps the tires true (round, no flat spots or tread separation). Maybe a concern for stress on levelers? We don't have levelers, not familiar with them. Hey Lucy, please explain.
 
I have never understood why so many people are afraid to have the wheels off the ground when up on the jacks. That’s what the jacks are designed to do - support the weight of the coach.

IMG_0072.jpeg

My coach was parked like this for several weeks with absolutely no issues, other than the height of that first step! 😉
 
I have never understood why so many people are afraid to have the wheels off the ground when up on the jacks.
Isn't it a tad presumptive to say that one is afraid if they explain why they prefer to try use a means possible to keep the RV wheels on the ground?

While it's technically possible to leave RV wheels off the ground using leveling jacks, most experts advise against it as it can potentially damage the frame or jacks due to uneven stress, and is generally considered unsafe, especially if the rear wheels are lifted as they provide braking functionality; if you must leave wheels off the ground, use leveling blocks to support the vehicle properly and always consult your RV manual for specific instructions.​

Now if you said you had all of the wheels off the ground in favor of the leveling jacks, but when only a few wheels are off the ground, the weight distribution on the frame can become uneven.

Just saying, I am not afraid, I have just always had a way to easily counter when I saw a wheel off the ground. Doesn't matter to me if it is front or rear. I have 2" X 12" wooden blocks and I have the Camco levelers that double for the tires and as jack pads.
 
thanks for being brave DK, but I am still unclear as to the concern of wheels up. it seems to me that if the vehicle is level, the weight distribution is equal, or at least as equal as if on level ground. furthermore, I thought levelers were attached in some way to the frame, thus where is the stress concern on the vehicle (not the levelers)? as for parked on a hill, now that I can see a concern with the possibility of vehicle movement as the braking tires come up. never do that on an incline!

"uneven stress, and is generally considered unsafe"

seems to me uneven stress is when things become unlevel, as in one wheel in a hole, the adjacent wheel on a "bump". now that is stress, a twisting effect. and who are these "generally" people? I am not in that group. and PLEAAAASE dont respond "the experts", as I consider myself in that group (how's that for brave, bold!?).
 
I’d go get a couple of jack stands. Put under axels in between the U bolts and adjust to get the weight off front jacks. And nooooo, it won’t hurt anything to put on the axels as long as you position them under the U bolts. Done this for 28 years with multiple units.
 
thanks for being brave DK, but I am still unclear as to the concern of wheels up. it seems to me that if the vehicle is level, the weight distribution is equal, or at least as equal as if on level ground. furthermore, I thought levelers were attached in some way to the frame, thus where is the stress concern on the vehicle (not the levelers)? as for parked on a hill, now that I can see a concern with the possibility of vehicle movement as the braking tires come up. never do that on an incline!

"uneven stress, and is generally considered unsafe"

seems to me uneven stress is when things become unlevel, as in one wheel in a hole, the adjacent wheel on a "bump". now that is stress, a twisting effect. and who are these "generally" people? I am not in that group. and PLEAAAASE dont respond "the experts", as I consider myself in that group (how's that for brave, bold!?).
Respectfully I wish to say up front that I was only answering the question from poster that stated he did not understand why some were afraid to not leave wheels up off ground, so I provided my reason of why.

But to your new question above, the reason why I don't believe the weight distribution is equal as if level on the ground is based on premise of statics engineering. Forces are applied directional and measured in pounds per square in (psi). So when rear tires and 2 rear jacks are solid on the ground the surface area of ground contact changes relative to the front that only has two jacks.

It is not so much as experts as you state, but what is stated by some as preferred or generally accepted best practice thus "why" some people will take precautions to avoid or resolve when it may occur.

With that said, I don't want to be known as an advocate for against of what others decide to do when their wheels are off the ground. I am a live and let live kind of guy. Your RV, your choice. Just saying mine are NEVER off the ground for any extended duration and my countermeasures are not based on fear.
 
Consider a house on stilts on a very steep hillside vs the same house on stilts on level ground. Assuming the stilts are properly rated/constructed/installed to fully support each house.

Consider the static force applied at the point of contact of the stilts on the bottom of the house in each scenario... BOTH laterally and vertically.

Is there any substantive difference between either house when an identical horizontal dynamic force is applied?

I think the focus should be on whether the hydraulic jacks are designed to fully support the load they're lifting... AND if they're properly installed.
 
Now if you said you had all of the wheels off the ground in favor of the leveling jacks, but when only a few wheels are off the ground, the weight distribution on the frame can become uneven.

Consider a house on stilts on a very steep hillside vs the same house on stilts on level ground. Assuming the stilts are properly rated/constructed/installed to fully support each house.

Consider the static force applied at the point of contact of the stilts on the bottom of the house in each scenario... BOTH laterally and vertically.

Is there any substantive difference between either house when an identical horizontal dynamic force is applied?

I think the focus should be on whether the hydraulic jacks are designed to fully support the load they're lifting... AND if they're properly installed.
IMO, I don't think there was a question about whether the leveling jacks were designed to hold the weight and have evenly distributed, rather what happens with the twisting and the associated forces to weight distribution when only 3 or fewer of the wheels are ON the ground. See my post #11 above.

Again, I may be wrong in the eyes of some, but my hope is that one may understand why, I do what I do, because I thought that was the question. At any rate, like the number of licks it takes to get to the center of a tootsie roll pop, I will never find out what happens when wheels are off the ground for an extended period of time in my RV.

FWIW, I would NOT want the house on very steep hillside either. I will take the one on level ground and even pay more. Thank you very much :trink39:
 
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As someone who has a vehicle that has been on the ground for 30 years and it drives just fine
And
A vehicle that lives on jackstands for years at a time
And
someone who has a hydraulic ram with weight on it for years at a time;

There is nothing to talk about about this.

The car on the ground squeeks a couple of times when it goes over a whoop after sitting for years...then it doesn't squeek.

The car on jacks squeaks a couple of times when sat down flat and after a few curves does not squeek.

The hydraulic makes popping noises at the eye connectors a few times when exercised every three years or so...and then does not pop.

If you can't interpret classic cars sitting and industrial equipment sitting...and apply this to an rv,
Then it's you...so...
JUST
DON'T
PARK
THERE
 
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I would NOT want the house on very steep hillside either. I will take the one on level ground and even pay more. Thank you very much :trink39:


Depends on the location/view, ease of entry/exit and possibility of land slides... 😄

Note: I make every effort to avoid having wheels off the ground when leveling, NOT because of physics... but just because it LOOKS janky! 🥴
 
I'm with ducksface on this one.

How about I take a shot at it this way...

The people who advocate keeping the wheels on the ground after leveling will use blocks of wood or other supports under the wheels to get almost level, then use the jacks to get completely level. Once you get the coach level using the jacks, what is the weight distribution between the jacks and the wheels? Unless you have a set of scales under the jacks and the wheels, you don't know. So it is entire possible that there might be only 20 pounds of weight on the wheels once the jacks lift the front end to get level. You won't be able to turn the wheel by hand because it has some weight on it, but for all you know, the jacks could be supporting 99.9% of the weight.

The jacks were put on the coach to support and level it! They are attached directly to the frame of the vehicle. Why using them would cause "uneven stress" is beyond me.
 
Here is another reason Why.

Your RV may vary, but per my Owners Manual see Ref #10

I saw and read this 6 years ago when coach was new. Like I said above in my post #11. I am not afraid, I have just always had a way to easily counter when I saw a wheel off the ground. Doesn't matter to me if it is front or rear. I have 2" X 12" wooden blocks and I have the Camco levelers that double for the tires and as jack pads.

I will throw out one other tidbit. I auto level my coach exclusively 100% of the time (except when RV was being towed, the tow operator asked if I could raise the front so he could slide his lift underneath without damaging the fiberglass), never had the issues I read about all the time against auto leveling, but occasionally the auto level will return the jacks and not level. I finally figured out that it was due to the leveling system calculating an unsafe condition ( I can only assume it was with the rear wheels, because I have never seen the rear wheels lifted off the ground when auto leveling). As I said earlier if it is a front wheel, I move the RV a little to another spot that is more level, or pull out my jack and leveling pads so all points have solid contact with the ground, or just move to another campsite, but I have never had to do this when leveling. I may have requested a new site when I first arrived at RV park after I could eyeball the site I had reserved was on a slope that I know I would not like.



Note Below Screenshot: It says NEVER lift the wheels off the ground to level coach.

So again this is Why for me, I am done as Kase Klosed for Dkoldman, I am behind at least 2 beers today on this topic :trink39:
1739726605348.png
 
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