I had to redeem myself after starting stupidly believing that the tank moved with the slide.

Hope the info helps. Just shut the breaker to the generator off and pull the fuse.

Let us know how it goes.
 
Well I got the cover off and tried to tighten visible connections (left the ones cover in electricians tape alone)...tapped it few times for good measure but when I rechecked for battery charging while plugged into shore power still not working. Going to get that multimeter before I put the cover back on and see what that might show.

Hugh, thanks for picture of 50A fuse. I can only feel mine and felt tge gard edge on the left below. Wondered if it was the flag...good to see it is not.
 

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Be careful in there, I believe that is your 120VAC transfer switch. I use a non-contact tester working around 120VAC.
 

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Nancy, just reading some more and I came across an article talking about the converter. It may be worth checking that component. If the 12v systems in the coach are working then the problem may lie in the breaker box. Hugh may have a better idea.
 
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Yes, I think my troubleshooting trials might be over...as I am getting out of my depth. I had unplugged from shore power and put the use/store switch in the store position to avoid electrocution but I get any next step testing requires "current" to the transfer switch! Back to waiting for the RV tech...
Thanks again, Nancy

BTW part of my early message didn't make sense, it should have read: I can only feel mine (50A) and felt the hard edge on the left below (the button). Wondered if it was the (yellow) flag...good to see it is not (looks like it is some kind of guard).
 
Hello All,
The subject WINTERIZING.
We live in Victoria BC Canada and our winters are quite mild but there are occasional dips that can be well below freezing. Last year we paid the ultimate price with some damage to our plumbing by failing to winterize.
The problem is that we like winter camping. Re-winterizing several times during the cold months is a pain and rustic camping without water is not our favourite option. We store our Compass in a lot with no power access. Is there any way to warm the pipes "off grid"? Solar? Propane?
I know this might be an outrageously naiive question but I would really appreciate any constructive ideas...
Best wishes,
Gera
 
Winterizing

My best advice is to carry a bicycle pump and a blow out plug you can get at any RV parts store or Canadian Tire or Walmart have them and after every trip
blow out the water and that should be enough for the winters on the island.
You should also dump all of your tanks of any water. I bought an Air Hawk
compressor that I will try this fall when I do my winterization which will make it even faster to get the job done. Your only other option for the heating pads is to run the generator for a period of time.
Coveman2
 
Does anyone know, in the 23TR the shelf under the coach, is it structural to the couch? Also, do you know how to take it out? It looks like it was installed before the lockers were installed.
 
Hello All,

The subject WINTERIZING.

We live in Victoria BC Canada and our winters are quite mild but there are occasional dips that can be well below freezing. Last year we paid the ultimate price with some damage to our plumbing by failing to winterize.

The problem is that we like winter camping. Re-winterizing several times during the cold months is a pain and rustic camping without water is not our favourite option. We store our Compass in a lot with no power access. Is there any way to warm the pipes "off grid"? Solar? Propane?

I know this might be an outrageously naiive question but I would really appreciate any constructive ideas...

Best wishes,

Gera

Not sure of any good way to warm everything needed... in supply and drain pipes. But winterizing the supply lines with compressed air is quick and cheap if you haven’t tried that.
I have a small compressor with regulated output, a blowout plug that screws into the city water connection and has a quick connect fitting to mate with air line.
Bypass and drain water heater, Connect airline to city inlet, pressurize to 35psi (240kpa if I converted right), and open each water valve until only air comes out.
May still need to pour antifreeze down drains, and in toilet to protect drain lines.
Dewinterize is just hook up water and use.
I could do it in about 10 minutes by the time we moved south.
 
Does anyone know, in the 23TR the shelf under the coach, is it structural to the couch? Also, do you know how to take it out? It looks like it was installed before the lockers were installed.

There are a few screws that hold that shelf in. You can remove the front ones but the back two (in my case) I just had to gently pry up. No damage incurred. My shelf was turned upside down, casters installed and used for storing Shopsmith attachments in my garage. Under the couch is now a new fully inflated spare tire and two pull out wire drawers for food, water or what have you, table top and when traveling we also carry a couple folding canvass chairs.


http://www.thorforums.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=20555&stc=1&d=1569725538
 

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TNX mountainsam!

I’ll hunt around for the front screws. I was wondering if a spare would fit in there. Right now with the back plate on the shelf it won’t. Flipping it over is a great idea. Since I moved the table to the hanging locker this frees up a lot more space to carry a bunch of stuff that I don’t need! ;-)
 
Motor Oil for MB diesel Sprinter

If you do your own oil changes on your newer MB diesel Sprinter I found Walmart sells Penzoil Euro L synthetic 5w30 5 qt container for around 23 bucks. This oil meets the 229.31 and 229.51 specs required by MB for the sprinter and the price can't be beat. You can order it online also. I used it on my 2018
Gemini 24TX.
 
TNX mountainsam!

I’ll hunt around for the front screws. I was wondering if a spare would fit in there. Right now with the back plate on the shelf it won’t. Flipping it over is a great idea. Since I moved the table to the hanging locker this frees up a lot more space to carry a bunch of stuff that I don’t need! ;-)



I hunted for an earlier conversation on this but didn’t find it. One owner moved the door out about an inch to accommodate his spare. I didn’t have to move mine but I did move the brackets for the table leg up a bit.
 
TNX for looking. It looks like the 2019 was fastened from below or the guys did a darned good job of hiding the screws. It’s going in for some warranty work this week so I’ll have the dealer remove it for me.

I have relocated the table and the leg to the hanging locker. I have another hinge to add to the centre point of the door to give it a bit more rigidity.
 
seat swivel

I have had my passenger side seat rotate before but now it seems to be locked in the straight position. It will not push over at all. I am 220 lbs and can't move the darn thing. I know its not an easy thing to do but has anyone not been able to move it and if so what did you do to remedy. (Ford Transit)
 
Did you try moving it forward and then try to rotate it. On my MB chassis, both front seats rotate around with a lever that is in the back of the seat at the base. If it is all the way back it sometimes will not rotate because the seat arm hits the door side panel. Not sure about the Gemini 23TR since I have a Siesta on a Mercedes Benz chassis with the rotating seat bases.
 
Paul, I did move it forward but the Transit seat slides toward the center of the cabin before it rotates and it just won't slide. I made the mistake of lubricating the mechanism last time I had it swiveled. Just doing odds and ends today and this was on the list to do. Thanks for the reply

Sam
 
I had an issue where the latch didn’t fully release. I was able to get to the latch and get some lube in it and then force it to move. My seat is working fine now.
 
Yes, I think my troubleshooting trials might be over...as I am getting out of my depth. I had unplugged from shore power and put the use/store switch in the store position to avoid electrocution but I get any next step testing requires "current" to the transfer switch! Back to waiting for the RV tech...

Just back from 2-night trip and "something" I did must have corrected the situation! I got my 2 house batteries up to 4/4 lights --after running them down for 24 hrs! They were fully charged up after the drive to my destination. Over the next 24 hrs., I ran: fridge, furnace, lights, radio, fan, awning, and slide dropping to 3/4 lights. Then, while plugged in for the following 24 hrs., I got to 4/4 lights on the monitor. Now planning to cancel RV Tech appointment;-) Nancy
 
I had an issue where the latch didn’t fully release. I was able to get to the latch and get some lube in it and then force it to move. My seat is working fine now.

Finally, it moved and swiveled but stiffly. Lubed again and working alright. I will make this a weekly maintenance item for a while until it losens up a bit.

On the same subject I thought I had telescoping steering but tried it a few times with no movement. So today I give the steering wheel a good yank after releasing the lever and bam, it pulled right out about 4 inches or so allowing me to move the seat back, giving me lots of extra leg room. After 16000 miles I got really comfortable in the drivers seat. Prior to this my only complaint with the Gemini was too little leg room. I think that is now solved. I'll run it to a truck wash about 100 miles away tomorrow to feel it out.

Any excuse to put it on the road.:thumb:
 

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