Go Power Solar Prep

[SheRoams]

I just bought a 2021 Freedom Elite 30FE that has the Go Power solar prep. Was told it was plug-and-play. Installed a 190 watt panel (max for the controller) and plugged it in. Got a error code of batteries not connected.



We into battery compartment (under steps) and see a blue wire coming off the positive battery post with a fuse on it but it terminates underneath and does not connect to anything at all.



Pulled the controller panel out and saw 4 wires connected, 2 for solar panel, 2 for batteries. Tried tracing the orange and white wires back but was unsuccessful. I think they are in one of the many bundles in there but I do not see where they would come out and and connect to the battery posts.



I reached out to Go power and they were little help. I have Google searched to no avail. I have read through all the literature for my RV online and in my bag. I reached out to Thor and no response. Nothing.



What am I missing? What is supposed to connect to the blue wire with the fuse? How do I get these wires to connect to the battery? Do they connect up somewhere else that I am not seeing? Do I need to take apart these huge wire bundles (taped and wrapped in plastic protectors)?



I wonder if I should trace the wires from the controller and then just run new wires.



(Yes, I am aware the battery probably needs a good cleaning if not replaced. That is on my list to do in a few weeks.)


I would appreciate some guidance. Almost every project on this RV has been just a little frustrating because some one little thing is out of place.

 

[macdaddy1111]

Does the controller have any power on it? Any leds lite up?

What did you plug your panels into?

 

[SheRoams]

Yeah it powered up and flashed b01, which means the batteries are not connected. The panel is plugged into the port on the roof.


The issue isn't that the controller is not working, it's that it's not connected to the batteries. That is what I am trying to figure out. How to connect it to the batteries.



The wires run from the controller into the wire bundle abyss under the coach. I just don't know how they are supposed to connect to the batteries.

 

[SDMiramar]

Check the fuse that is inline just before the battery. They should have kept the orange wire run all the way to the battery. On my rig the 15a fuse was blown when I bought it new. Didn’t notice as it was inside the dealership with no sun.

 

[MCP-THOR]

Yeah it powered up and flashed b01, which means the batteries are not connected. The panel is plugged into the port on the roof.


The issue isn't that the controller is not working, it's that it's not connected to the batteries. That is what I am trying to figure out. How to connect it to the batteries.



The wires run from the controller into the wire bundle abyss under the coach. I just don't know how they are supposed to connect to the batteries.

The battery pos from the controller may connect to a pos buss bar or to another “hot” side location. Mine connects to the hot side of the battery disconnect switch. I do not have the same rig however.

The battery negative from the controller may go to any ground stud or negative buss.

That blue wire which you say doesn’t go anywhere (not connected?) may be where the orange pos was supposed to splice in. Or it could have been a prep for something else entirely.

 

[MCP-THOR]

You could also disconnect the battery pos at the controller and check for voltage to determine if there is continuity to the battery.

I believe you may want to cover the solar panel to prevent it from generating power while playing around at the controller.

 

[Chateau_Nomad]

Post a pic of the controller display. My 2020 24F came with the Go Power 10 amp controller as part of the solar prep... probably exactly what you have.

I've since replaced the controller with a 40 amp MPPT controller, and put three 200 watt panels on the roof... along with lithium upgrade.

As I recall mine was wired to the battery and the charge controller displayed battery voltage... but no solar panels were installed. A few pics might jog my memory. It's actually a pretty simple wiring job... if the wires can't be traced, new wiring is cheap and easy.

Next question... do you own a voltmeter and know how to use it?

 

[Bob Nodine]

Just so you know, I had a problem with a different device on a different motorhome that was not connected to the battery correctly. It turned out to be caused by the fact that the person who installed one of the terminals did not remove the insulation on the wire before crimping the terminal. It was a new device I had ordered and came with the wire already prepared. The only way I managed to find it was by ordering a second device. The device had voltage present at the device from the battery but the connection would not support enough current to operate the device.

 

[SheRoams]

The battery pos from the controller may connect to a pos buss bar or to another “hot” side location. Mine connects to the hot side of the battery disconnect switch. I do not have the same rig however.

The battery negative from the controller may go to any ground stud or negative buss.

That blue wire which you say doesn’t go anywhere (not connected?) may be where the orange pos was supposed to splice in. Or it could have been a prep for something else entirely.

That's what I am trying to figure out. Does it connect somewhere else that I cannot see at first glance and have to dig more.



The blue wire just ends. It's not connected to anything at all besides the positive post on the battery. On the schematic it shows it's supposed to be an orange wire with inline fuse but I don't see where to connect it.

 

[SheRoams]

Post a pic of the controller display. My 2020 24F came with the Go Power 10 amp controller as part of the solar prep... probably exactly what you have.

I've since replaced the controller with a 40 amp MPPT controller, and put three 200 watt panels on the roof... along with lithium upgrade.

As I recall mine was wired to the battery and the charge controller displayed battery voltage... but no solar panels were installed. A few pics might jog my memory. It's actually a pretty simple wiring job... if the wires can't be traced, new wiring is cheap and easy.

Next question... do you own a voltmeter and know how to use it?

This is the controller. It is not the controller or any of it's settings. I installed the solar panel and plugged it in on the roof port. It was flashing b01, which means battery not connected.



I may unhook the battery, pull it out, and see if I can access the wire bundles from there because it's a bit easier access.



Unless it's connected somewhere else on this model RV, nothing is coming to the battery to charge it from the controller.

 

[SheRoams]

Check the fuse that is inline just before the battery. They should have kept the orange wire run all the way to the battery. On my rig the 15a fuse was blown when I bought it new. Didn’t notice as it was inside the dealership with no sun.

The wire with the inline fuse does not connect to anything other than the positive post. It goes back behind the wire bundle and just terminates. Not connected to anything else.

 

[Mark54]

The wire with the inline fuse does not connect to anything other than the positive post. It goes back behind the wire bundle and just terminates. Not connected to anything else.

The B+ battery orange wire has to have a fuse and goes from controller to master hot side (battery disconnect) then to buss bar, or battery, so solar is always charging even when that switch is off. (see 3rd pic for master switch in 2022 Tellaro- yours may be different)

Look near that disconnect switch for a 5A-15A fuse. My Tellaro had the same solar controller only 30A, and had a 20A fuse right next to the switch. Pull the switch out to find if needed.
See 2nd pic to see master switch in my Tellaro- B+ orange wire goes to that from B+ fuse seen in 1st pic.

- Test the voltage with a meter on the PV+ and PV- should be anywhere from 14-20VDC
- Test the voltage on the battery terminals, B+ and B- and should read 12-13vdc.

- Check the cables to controller to make sure they have ends stripped enough to make contact.
- Call prev. owner and ask if the controller ever worked.
- Could be a bad controller- just helped a fellow Tellaro owner diagnose that his GoPower 10A controller is not working- voltages were good on all terminals and fuse was ok.

- Possible prev. owner disconnected battery and left PV panels connected- manual says not to do that or have controller powered only by PV. That can destroy the controller.

- Finally- find the manual and be sure battery type is selected correctly for lead-acid deep cycle from what I see in your pics.

Also 3rd pic shows two breaker switches I use to fully disconnect my system if I need to work on it. Optional for PV+, but I got lightly zapped from solar panels when working on B+ buss bar once!

I also changed solar controller from PWM to MPPT that is 20% more efficient.(70% vs 90%)
Good luck!!

 

[MCP-THOR]

The wire with the inline fuse does not connect to anything other than the positive post. It goes back behind the wire bundle and just terminates. Not connected to anything else.

Admittedly this is taking a stab at it!

If the blue wire is 10 gauge and has a 20 amp fuse, it “may” be the connection splice point. However it would make sense that the orange from the controller pos would be hanging out somewhere near the battery blue. And if that is the case, be aware the orange is live from the panel and controller.

A volt ohmmeter is your friend. If you are comfortable using one some digging around is necessary. Unless someone with the same rig can provide more precise info.

 

[macdaddy1111]

Toss a towel over panel or disconnect one power leg of panel and see if controller is still getting power

 

[Chateau_Nomad]

Save yourself aggravation...

Get the following from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Kimbluth-Sta...358748540-B0CHRB87HR-&hvexpln=73&gad_source=1

Remove or cap any existing "mystery" wires.

I recommend crimping ferrules on the ends of all stranded copper. Then splice an inline fuse holder with a 12 - 15 amp fuse in the red (positive) wire.

Connect this wire DIRECTLY to the battery positive post and positive controller terminal.

Connect the black (negative) wire to the negative battery post and negative controller terminal.

Done.

 

[SheRoams]

Admittedly this is taking a stab at it!

If the blue wire is 10 gauge and has a 20 amp fuse, it “may” be the connection splice point. However it would make sense that the orange from the controller pos would be hanging out somewhere near the battery blue. And if that is the case, be aware the orange is live from the panel and controller.

A volt ohmmeter is your friend. If you are comfortable using one some digging around is necessary. Unless someone with the same rig can provide more precise info.

I am comfortable using a voltage meter. There was nothing in that area where the blue ended. Nothing hanging, etc. I plan to go back out and look again and take better pictures.



There is only one wire connected to the negative terminal on the battery, and three on the positive, one from what I assume to be the generator, one from the inverter, and the blue one. All three can be seen in the picture.



So unless the wires converge back a bit in the bundles and then connect together and a single wire come to battery, I don't think it's connected.

 

[SheRoams]

Save yourself aggravation...

Get the following from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Kimbluth-Sta...358748540-B0CHRB87HR-&hvexpln=73&gad_source=1

Remove or cap any existing "mystery" wires.

I recommend crimping ferrules on the ends of all stranded copper. Then splice an inline fuse holder with a 12 - 15 amp fuse in the red (positive) wire.

Connect this wire DIRECTLY to the battery positive post and positive controller terminal.

Connect the black (negative) wire to the negative battery post and negative controller terminal.

Done.

I have already contemplated that. I do need one with an inline fuse on the positive side. My concern was if it is connected somewhere else in the bundle then converges into one to connect to the battery. That doesn't make sense to me but in the RV world, little does.

 

[SheRoams]

The B+ battery orange wire has to have a fuse and goes from controller to master hot side (battery disconnect) then to buss bar, or battery, so solar is always charging even when that switch is off. (see 3rd pic for master switch in 2022 Tellaro- yours may be different)

Look near that disconnect switch for a 5A-15A fuse. My Tellaro had the same solar controller only 30A, and had a 20A fuse right next to the switch. Pull the switch out to find if needed.
See 2nd pic to see master switch in my Tellaro- B+ orange wire goes to that from B+ fuse seen in 1st pic.

- Test the voltage with a meter on the PV+ and PV- should be anywhere from 14-20VDC
- Test the voltage on the battery terminals, B+ and B- and should read 12-13vdc.

- Check the cables to controller to make sure they have ends stripped enough to make contact.
- Call prev. owner and ask if the controller ever worked.
- Could be a bad controller- just helped a fellow Tellaro owner diagnose that his GoPower 10A controller is not working- voltages were good on all terminals and fuse was ok.

- Possible prev. owner disconnected battery and left PV panels connected- manual says not to do that or have controller powered only by PV. That can destroy the controller.

- Finally- find the manual and be sure battery type is selected correctly for lead-acid deep cycle from what I see in your pics.

Also 3rd pic shows two breaker switches I use to fully disconnect my system if I need to work on it. Optional for PV+, but I got lightly zapped from solar panels when working on B+ buss bar once!

I also changed solar controller from PWM to MPPT that is 20% more efficient.(70% vs 90%)
Good luck!!

Yes, it is always charging when off, like yours.



I can't contact previous owner. Bought it at a dealership and they didn't even know how to turn on the generator or what half the things in the RV were. Service may know but it's been hard getting them to fix the clogged sink.



I did not check under my bed, where my conglomeration of everything is. I will do that when I go back over to the RV. Would it stand to reason that somewhere under there something is disconnected?



My set up is a bit different and I can post a picture when I get one.



The solar panel is not connected right now. I read about it damaging the controller if the batteries were not connected so we left it unconnected, hence why there was no display on the controller. And yes, the controller when it was on was selected to wet cell.



This isn't my first rodeo with solar but we did it from scratch last time with all victron and the MPPT controller. This is on my bucket list but right now I'm just trying to get everything else taken care of first. I just need it to keep battery charged and healthy as possible until I can throw money at it in February.

 

[macdaddy1111]

How's controller getting power if u unplug panel and not hooked to battery?

 

[SheRoams]

How's controller getting power if u unplug panel and not hooked to battery?

It's not. It does not power up unless the panel is connected.