Going from 2 AGM to 1 12V 300Ah LiFePO4 Battery

[ducksface]

Put it back the the way yours was to begin with and do no other things to it, with it, or testing it.

Just install the new exactly as the old came out.
You're not to be trusted with that meter and you're just confusing it all.

Remove
Replace

There are no other steps or needs or questions.

No one reasonable will dispute my instructions.

 

[The Rookie]

Question bim 160 shows batt A & batt B. Li bim 225 shows batt chassis & batt coach.
When I put the multimeter on both Batt A & batt B shows 12.8 votts. Even red black multimeter reversed and reading 12.8.
Not sure if my batt A goes to batt chassis or same direction exact wiring?

I went through this just days ago and figured out which was which by taking a reading, then starting the engine and taking another reading. One post should show the alternator charging current.
The Li-BIM uses parameters and time for charging so it will act differently than the 160
edit: removed useless gibberish

 

[Chateau_Nomad]

I think the best path for Scubie is to keep it simple... as Duck said just do a direct swap. BTW .. the yellow wire is probably the ignition wire... which is labeled on the BIM. It should have 12 volts ONLY when ignition switch is ON.

Scubie... we all love you dearly... This might be a great time to get in touch with your new tech. Look over his shoulder if possible and take LOTS of notes!!

 

[Scubawise]

Put it back the the way yours was to begin with and do no other things to it, with it, or testing it.

Just install the new exactly as the old came out.
You're not to be trusted with that meter and you're just confusing it all.

Remove
Replace

There are no other steps or needs or questions.

No one reasonable will dispute my instructions.

I think you may be correct

 

[Scubawise]

I went through this just days ago and figured out which was which by taking a reading, then starting the engine and taking another reading. One post should show the alternator charging current.
The Li-BIM uses parameters and time for charging so it will act differently than the 160
edit: removed useless gibberish

Good to know. No coach batteries & BAT B shows power.

 

[Scubawise]

I think the best path for Scubie is to keep it simple... as Duck said just do a direct swap. BTW .. the yellow wire is probably the ignition wire... which is labeled on the BIM. It should have 12 volts ONLY when ignition switch is ON.

Scubie... we all love you dearly... This might be a great time to get in touch with your new tech. Look over his shoulder if possible and take LOTS of notes!!

I have an ignition wire on a separate post on the bim 160.
This extra yellow was attached to bat A, which now appears to read zero on multimeter & a coach battery

 

[Scubawise]

I think the best path for Scubie is to keep it simple... as Duck said just do a direct swap. BTW .. the yellow wire is probably the ignition wire... which is labeled on the BIM. It should have 12 volts ONLY when ignition switch is ON.

Scubie... we all love you dearly... This might be a great time to get in touch with your new tech. Look over his shoulder if possible and take LOTS of notes!!

I am close. Backup plan do direct swap. But my wiring may be reverse due to have no coach batteries & power to chassis on bim 160 BAT A

 

[dkoldman]

KISS principle. Keep it Simple

The fact batteries have been removed should have no impact on the wiring at the BIM. Both of the BIMs are wired the same. Take One Off put the other One ON. Hopefully you took the advice in post #3 and took pictures.

If you wanted to use the voltmeter, it would have been best to do so before you started taking anything apart. If for no other reason just to learn to use and know what to. expect.

You will get it so stay at it.

 

[Scubawise]

KISS principle. Keep it Simple

The fact batteries have been removed should have no impact on the wiring at the BIM. Both of the BIMs are wired the same. Take One Off put the other One ON. Hopefully you took the advice in post #3 and took pictures.

If you wanted to use the voltmeter, it would have been best to do so before you started taking anything apart. If for no other reason just to learn to use and know what to. expect.

You will get it so stay at it.

Agree. My situation is the chassis battery has been identified as BAT B, meaning they were reversed. I have a chance to put the correct chassis connection on the li bim 225 terminal. I have noticed at times using the inverter both chassis & coach losing power.
This may help my future?

 

[ducksface]

Nothing will help your future except you;
Remove
Stop thinking
Replace

We'll troubleshoot for you when you have something to trouble shoot...after you

Replace your bim, wire for wire, as it was.

 

[dkoldman]

Agree. My situation is the chassis battery has been identified as BAT B, meaning they were reversed. I have a chance to put the correct chassis connection on the li bim 225 terminal. I have noticed at times using the inverter both chassis & coach losing power.
This may help my future?

That sound like critical need to know information before doing anything? I would expect the house battery to lose power, but we could have easily checked for draw on chassis if inverter had load.

You know about DOE Design of Experiments. You wish to minimize changing multiple variables that is all that is being said. Plenty time to fix a reversed wire IF it is REVERSED.

I don't know why they call it Batt A and Batt B anyway. It is a House or Chassis battery. There should be no doubt which cable is from the house or a chassis battery. You can check that with no voltmeter. i.e. any 12vc appliance can be connected to the positive and a ground. One battery disconnected at a time while you verify which cable is hot.

You mentioned future? IMO, even if the cables were reversed before you started, if I were in your shoes, I would be doing what the ACE and that Damn Duck says, because when you go through all of the steps more lights come on and you will be better equipped in the future to do things.

 

[Scubawise]

That sound like critical need to know information before doing anything? I would expect the house battery to lose power, but we could have easily checked for draw on chassis if inverter had load.

You know about DOE Design of Experiments. You wish to minimize variable that is all that is being said. Plenty time to fix a reversed wire IF it is REVERSED.

I don't know why they call it Batt A and Batt B anyway. It is a House or Chassis battery. There should be no doubt which cable is from the house or a chassis battery. You can check that with no voltmeter. i.e. any 12vc appliance can be connected to the positive and a ground. One battery disconnected at a time while you verify which cable is hot.

You mentioned future? IMO, even if the cables were reversed before you started, if I were in your shoes, I would be doing what the ACE and that Damn Duck says, because when you go through all of the steps more lights come on and you will be better equipped in the future to do things.

Noted thx

 

[PS89]

Agree. My situation is the chassis battery has been identified as BAT B, meaning they were reversed. I have a chance to put the correct chassis connection on the li bim 225 terminal. I have noticed at times using the inverter both chassis & coach losing power.
This may help my future?

The old BIM would sort of but sometimes not so much work if the battery leads were reversed. The Li-BIM will definitely not work correctly if the battery leads are reversed.

Despite duck's exhortation to simply move the cables over without knowing what each happens to connect to, that would give you a 100% chance of getting them backward on the LiBIM if your old BIM is still as wired at the Thor factory. Your observation about the chassis battery draining when the inverter is operating demonstrates one of the issues with reversed battery cables on the BIM.

KNOW which cable is which, then connect them.

 

[Scubawise]

The old BIM would sort of but sometimes not so much work if the battery leads were reversed. The Li-BIM will definitely not work correctly if the battery leads are reversed.

Despite duck's exhortation to simply move the cables over without knowing what each happens to connect to, that would give you a 100% chance of getting them backward on the LiBIM if your old BIM is still as wired at the Thor factory. Your observation about the chassis battery draining when the inverter is operating demonstrates on of the issues with reversed battery cables on the BIM.

KNOW which cable is which, then connect them.

That was my non expert thinking
I did notice the Bim 160 many times correctly isolate the chassis & witnessed the coach drop when used. We dry camped for 8 days and studied the bmpro readings. There were times I heard the bim 160 engage.
Also when massive load applied to the coach batteries the bim decided to bring both chassis & coach down. Especially when inverter engaged I noticed a few times both dropped equally to 12.2. Also we noticed at times over night the coach drop to 11.9 & chassis 12.8. Long & short of this is when reviewing youtube & information on our site here I decided to remove the coach and start NON EXPERT testing.

 

[Chateau_Nomad]

That was my non expert thinking
I did notice the Bim 160 many times correctly isolate the chassis & witnessed the coach drop when used. We dry camped for 8 days and studied the bmpro readings. There were times I heard the bim 160 engage.
Also when massive load applied to the coach batteries the bim decided to bring both chassis & coach down. Especially when inverter engaged I noticed a few times both dropped equally to 12.2. Also we noticed at times over night the coach drop to 11.9 & chassis 12.8. Long & short of this is when reviewing youtube & information on our site here I decided to remove the coach and start NON EXPERT testing.

And THIS is why it's VERY important to connect the battery cables correctly! The PRIMARY purpose of the Li-BIM 225 is to prevent you from being stranded with a dead chassis battery. It WILL NOT allow the chassis battery to be excessively drained by the motorhome.

Your sole focus at this point should be getting the chassis positive battery cable and house positive battery cable identified and connected to their respective clearly labeled Li-BIM 225 terminals... NOTHING ELSE!

Measuring other voltages at this stage is pointless and will only muddy the waters. Because if wired improperly, the device won't function as intended.

After connected, copy the below text and save it... When connected properly this is exactly how the Li-BIM 225 operates.

From the LI-BIM 225 Quick Guide:
There are three scenarios to when the connection between chassis and coach batteries will be made, each with their own response:

Scenario 1: Engine is "on" with a Chassis battery voltage greater than 13.4V and a Coach battery voltage less than 13.3V
Response: The LI-BIM 225 will connect the batteries for 15 minutes, then disconnect the
batteries for a wait time of 20 minutes. After this wait time, a new voltage reading will be taken of each battery. If the voltages remain within the scenario's parameters, the response repeats.

Scenario 2: The Chassis battery voltage is below 12.5V and a Coach battery voltage greater than 13.5V
Response: The LI-BIM 225 will connect the batteries for 1 hour, then disconnect the batteries for a wait time of 2 minutes. After this wait time, a new voltage reading will be taken of each battery. If the voltages remain within the scenario's parameters, the response repeats.

Scenario 3: The Normally Open Momentary Switch is pressed
Response: The LI-BIM 225 will connect the batteries for as long as the switch is pressed.

 

[Scubawise]

And THIS is why it's VERY important to connect the battery cables correctly! The PRIMARY purpose of the Li-BIM 225 is to prevent you from being stranded with a dead chassis battery. It WILL NOT allow the chassis battery to be excessively drained by the motorhome.

Your sole focus at this point should be getting the chassis positive battery cable and house positive battery cable identified and connected to their respective clearly labeled Li-BIM 225 terminals... NOTHING ELSE!

Measuring other voltages at this stage is pointless and will only muddy the waters. Because if wired improperly, the device won't function as intended.

After connected, copy the below text and save it... When connected properly this is exactly how the Li-BIM 225 operates.

From the LI-BIM 225 Quick Guide:
There are three scenarios to when the connection between chassis and coach batteries will be made, each with their own response:

Scenario 1: Engine is "on" with a Chassis battery voltage greater than 13.4V and a Coach battery voltage less than 13.3V
Response: The LI-BIM 225 will connect the batteries for 15 minutes, then disconnect the
batteries for a wait time of 20 minutes. After this wait time, a new voltage reading will be taken of each battery. If the voltages remain within the scenario's parameters, the response repeats.

Scenario 2: The Chassis battery voltage is below 12.5V and a Coach battery voltage greater than 13.5V
Response: The LI-BIM 225 will connect the batteries for 1 hour, then disconnect the batteries for a wait time of 2 minutes. After this wait time, a new voltage reading will be taken of each battery. If the voltages remain within the scenario's parameters, the response repeats.

Scenario 3: The Normally Open Momentary Switch is pressed
Response: The LI-BIM 225 will connect the batteries for as long as the switch is pressed.

Excellent.
Copied.
I think I understand.
All of you are great.
Lora & I appreciate you all helping our future camping experience.
It is great to learn new things.
Will provide updates...

 

[Chateau_Nomad]

Excellent.
Copied.
I think I understand.
All of you are great.
Lora & I appreciate you all helping our future camping experience.
It is great to learn new things.
Will provide updates...

As my 4 year old granddaughter says... "Sharing is caring".

 

[Scubawise]

Thanks All!

Update batteries came today at 1pm.
The bim reversed was interesting.
I think I understand why reversed.
The wire harness that contains the chassis & coach battery wires is really secured but the chassis battery wire is 1 inch short to reach BAT A on the bim 160. The chassis battery fits fine on li bim 225 chassis labeled connection. However the coach is short by 2 inches to reach the li bim coach connection.

I ran to autozone and bought a battery wire & screws. Connected to coach harness wire and then to li bim 225.

Multimeter showed 12.8 on li bim 225 chassis & 0 on coach.

Tried to drop lithium 300 in and off width wise by about 1/8 inch. I bent the metal on the step down a little and dropped battery in on an angle. It was hanging at the bottom off the holding metal plate. Moved it front to back and dropped perfectly in the holding plate.

Hooked up battery wires.

Battery showed 73% delivered.

Tested li bim 225. Chassis 12.7 coach 13.1.

Turned on use store. Booted bmpro.
Bmpro shows coach 13.1 & chassis 12.7

Lights work. Solar blinking fine.
After 2 hours reading on actual coach shows 82% vs delivered 73%.

Left as is to see what solar does.

Will plug in 30 amp test tomorrow.

 

[Scubawise]

I tied things down

 

[Scubawise]

I am looking at the clouds saying thanks