Help with winterizing new Sequence 20L

MidnightOil-THOR

New Member
Joined
Nov 27, 2024
Posts
5
Location
Charlotte
Hello,
I thought I could winterize my new 2025 Sequence 20L. I have done other travel trailers in the past. I followed the owner manual but still can't seem to get it done. I found the fresh water tank drain. I found the low point drains. I can't find the hot water tank drain. If there is any help with this I would be very greatfull.

Thank you,
Debbie
 
What kind/brand of water heater do you have?

Our Atwood 6 gallon water heater has a (nylon/plastic) drain plug easily accessed when the outside cover is opened. Many new RVs have tankless water heaters and I have no experience with those.
 
Yes I also watched that video. Mine is not like that. It is under the seat on the driver side . There is just one small plastic clear tube that goes from the heater through the floor. But I can't find how to get the water flowing out of the tank.
 
Is there a valve to open? If so you likely also need to open a hot water faucet (or two) to allow it to drain. Otherwise it's like holding your thumb on the top of a straw full of soda.
 
You drain it by opening the temperature pressure relief valve. It’s a standard lever operated valve like on your home water heater. Mine was somewhat hidden behind the inverter charger. It is on the floor and drains directly down.

Here’s a picture
 

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I was going to ask for a picture of the water heater to see if we could locate a drain. But there you go. Who who'da thunk it?
 
20L winterising

Yes I also watched that video. Mine is not like that. It is under the seat on the driver side . There is just one small plastic clear tube that goes from the heater through the floor. But I can't find how to get the water flowing out of the tank.

I have a comphrehensive pdf for winterizing the 20L- PM me for my email, and I can send you that, along with any other pdf's I have made.

In short- see pcs- drain Truma and isolate it- then takes only 1 gal of RVAF to winterize. I never add to the fresh tank- I isolate that before adding AF.

To drain Truma, open PRT valve and any hot water tap and let it drain fully. Don't use air blow-out on that system. Open cold too to be sure Truma is totally empty. Then isolate it for AF addition.

I just noticed you are 30+ min. from me in VT- see PM for text and email info!!!
 

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That's a clean out for the sink drain- also has a check valve instead of a trap. Hope I never have to open that...
 
...also has a check valve instead of a trap...

A check valve in the drain line? I've never seen that. They do make air entry valves for installations that don't connect to a vent pipe. But those are installed as high as possible in the sink cabinet.
 
A check valve in the drain line? I've never seen that. They do make air entry valves for installations that don't connect to a vent pipe. But those are installed as high as possible in the sink cabinet.
Yup- two actually- one for sink and one for shower drain! No need for an AAV valve (aka Studor valve) in this, as it does have a roof vent. I had to double check as I winterized and forgot to add AF to the shower drain, then found out I did not need to!

See pic- Item #48, "waterless check valve"
Rear sink does have a traditional S-trap (not in pic) Not sure why they did that one like that.

At home, I had to install an AAV in my laundry room as there was no vent pipe nearby, as I added a sink in what used to be a garage. As you said- way above the sink! Also serves the laundry drain.
 

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