hot water heater not working

robkathybat

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 26, 2014
Messages
138
Location
NY
When I got up this morning the hot water was only luke warm, I checked the electric eater switch it was on. After breakfast I started troubleshooting. I checked breaker it was on, the voltage at the heater connections is 0 volts. I pushed both reset buttons still 0 volts. I took the cover off the reset buttons and pushed them still 0 volts. I checked continuity of the heater element, I have continuity, the heater is not burned out. I jumpered across both cutout switches the burner came on with one jumpered, with the other switch jumpered I still get 0 volts. I am baffled any thoughts?
 
Lower left hand corner of suburban water heaters is a small rocker switch. It gets hot and fragile and breaks. With your breaker off gently pry this switch out of the opening and try to turn on and off there. Contacts char and break. Easy fix. I ran a short wire as a jumper across the terminals until I found a replacement switch.
 
I had the same problem, and it turned out to be the thermostat/over temp limit switch in the unit accessible from the outside. Look for burned, charred wiring or the slip on connectors not making a good connection.
 

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sorry, forgot to say I bought mine from an RV dealer in Mesa, but I'll bet you can find them on Amazon.
 
If it's not the switch and you get no voltage there, probably the relay box on the back corner of the w/h. The 12 VDC switch inside controls a relay that switched the 120 VAC to the w/h.
 
Thanks R Time Soon. I pried the switch off and sure enough one of the connections was burnt. Decided I would just tie the wires together with a wire nut because I couldn't pull much wire out. Finally after disassembling the gas side I was able to cut, strip and tie the wires together. Very disappointed to find I still had no voltage so msh4771 it appears you may be correct. How do I get at the relay? I attached a picture of the burnt wire. After my fix didn't work I tested the continuity of the cut off piece and the wires had not completely burnt through so it appears the switch still worked.
 

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All will depend on location of the W/H. I was able to gain access by removing the rear basement bulkhead.
 

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