Inverter runs fridge when Rv is shut off

Interesting thread, I just brought my 2017 ace 29.4 home to load up for a trip and the outdoor fridge appears to have died. On SP and The single 1000w xantrex inverter is on and has been on in storage. I checked it 3 days ago and cold as ever. It sounds like the fan is running but not cooling. Its a contoure model about 18d x 24h x 20w.

Time for a new one it appears. Now to find one that has these measurements or less. :rolleyes:
I thought my outside fridge had died on me when I was in Florida back in Feb. Turned out that the door hadn't sealed an my beer got warm.

I researched what I could pick up locally and would fit in my 29M . Found this one at Home Despot: Vissani 2.6 Cu. Ft. Mini Refrigerator in Black, ENERGY STAR HVAR26GBE - The Home Depot
 
By the look of the screws and the on/off button marks that switch may not work and is maybe wired straight thru. Doesn’t the fridge have a knob to turn off fridge inside fridge.
There isn't an on/off switch inside the fridge.
 
The refrigerator that the OP likely has in his coach has an internal rotary control that includes an OFF position.
I was confused because that is how mine works , turn the dial to the left ( warmer temp) then it clicks off
 
Pay attention to this!

You have a 120 volt residential fridge. Thor installed a separate 1000 watt inverter to power it. The remote control switch turns that inverter on and off. If you want the refrigerator to run, you MUST ensure the inverter is switched ON (RED LED).

BTW, Thor did NOT document this variation in any of the schematics packages I've looked at for the ACE and WS/Hurricane product lines. Thor used both 120 volt-only as well as propane capable fridges starting back around '17 or so. You can tell which fridge a coach was built to use by looking at the outside wall behind the fridge. Gas-capable units have vent slots cut into the outside sidewall while models such as yours will have a smooth and intact sidewall.
Thanks to everyone for solid facts and findings which solved the mystery about the $&!?(#% button.
Pay attention to this!

You have a 120 volt residential fridge. Thor installed a separate 1000 watt inverter to power it. The remote control switch turns that inverter on and off. If you want the refrigerator to run, you MUST ensure the inverter is switched ON (RED LED).

BTW, Thor did NOT document this variation in any of the schematics packages I've looked at for the ACE and WS/Hurricane product lines. Thor used both 120 volt-only as well as propane capable fridges starting back around '17 or so. You can tell which fridge a coach was built to use by looking at the outside wall behind the fridge. Gas-capable units have vent slots cut into the outside sidewall while models such as yours will have a smooth and intact sidewall.
Thank you to all for the inverter education 101 and for solving the mystery of the magic button.

How did this happen you ask?
Last year, while traveling over Indiana bumpy roads from Connecticut to get to Colorado, the fridge floor gave way in Nebraska….sunk, tilted and everything spilled out.
Found a trusty Minards off the highway and rebuilt a makeshift floor to get us on the road for another 20 days. It was 107 degrees that day when I was hand sawing wood in the minards parking lot. It got ugly. Added some child locks to the fridge and we were good, not perfect.

Fast forward. Had an oil change and dewingrrize a few weeks ago…asked them to rebuild and properly secure the fridge.

Tech said wires were messed up. However, I think he messed them up. The mystery light never worked since they service a few weeks ago.

Taking it back on Wednesday along with a print out of all helpful tips and awesome knowledge nuggets.

Thanks to everyone.

I'll report back Thursday.
 

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Thanks to everyone for solid facts and findings which solved the mystery about the $&!?(#% button.

Thank you to all for the inverter education 101 and for solving the mystery of the magic button.

How did this happen you ask?
Last year, while traveling over Indiana bumpy roads from Connecticut to get to Colorado, the fridge floor gave way in Nebraska….sunk, tilted and everything spilled out.
Found a trusty Minards off the highway and rebuilt a makeshift floor to get us on the road for another 20 days. It was 107 degrees that day when I was hand sawing wood in the minards parking lot. It got ugly. Added some child locks to the fridge and we were good, not perfect.

Fast forward. Had an oil change and dewingrrize a few weeks ago…asked them to rebuild and properly secure the fridge.

Tech said wires were messed up. However, I think he messed them up. The mystery light never worked since they service a few weeks ago.

Taking it back on Wednesday along with a print out of all helpful tips and awesome knowledge nuggets.

Thanks to everyone.

I'll report back Thursday.
I hope the Lollibus gets back to "normal" after this service.
 
I don't recall if mine has the word OFF on the knob or if it simply clicks. Is your fridge, in fact, a 120V residential, perhaps as I described above?

The inverter's remote control should be wired to the actual inverter with an RJ12 cable. Looks like a 6-wire modular phone cord.

Since you had extensive work done involving the fridge and its base, it sounds like something got messed up or was overlooked.
 
2018 Thor ACE 29.3

The Rv is parked for a week. Battery disconnect button at the stairwell is off.
We return a week later and the inverter under the fridge is beeping and flashing and keeping the fridge & freezer running with nothing in it!!
Of course, the house batteries are probably draining at this point.

why does the fridge run when everything is shut off?

There is one mysterious button on theniutaide fridge wall above the stovetop. One Rv tech said it does “nothing” . Another Rv tech from another dealer said I'd the red light is on, the fridge is on.
The red light is not on. Press the button and nothing happens either way. My wife put the note on the wall to remind us.
Exactly the same issue we had...same year model etc
Took the service dept a few trys to solve it. Finally they got a new wall inverter switch and it was all fixed !
Ruined a set of house batteries before it was fixed
 
Exactly the same issue we had...same year model etc
Took the service dept a few trys to solve it. Finally they got a new wall inverter switch and it was all fixed !
Ruined a set of house batteries before it was fixed
fast forward a few months to this week....we heard the generator kick on while on shore power for 3 days.....and now we find out that the fridge and the inverter are NOT the original that came with the RV when it was new. EIther the owner or the dealer who sold it to us, replaced both prior to the sale. THe rig only had 3,200 miles on it when we bought it.....very odd.

RV is currently at the shop and we are looking at replacing the inverter with a better, more reliable brand because the standby mode for the current inverter does not work. When on shore power, the inverter should automatically flip over and know not to use the house batteries.
 
If you want SANITY, wire ALL 12v coach circuits to disconnect when the battery disconnect switch is OFF. If you want cheap and simple - but not always logical... just bolt the inverter leads to the battery and go.

I abhor "down and dirty" with motorhome wiring. It's the root cause of MANY forum posts.
 
fast forward a few months to this week....we heard the generator kick on while on shore power for 3 days.....and now we find out that the fridge and the inverter are NOT the original that came with the RV when it was new. EIther the owner or the dealer who sold it to us, replaced both prior to the sale. THe rig only had 3,200 miles on it when we bought it.....very odd.

RV is currently at the shop and we are looking at replacing the inverter with a better, more reliable brand because the standby mode for the current inverter does not work. When on shore power, the inverter should automatically flip over and know not to use the house batteries.
No inverter uses 0 power when turned on. There's always a minimum draw.
 
If you want SANITY, wire ALL 12v coach circuits to disconnect when the battery disconnect switch is OFF. If you want cheap and simple - but not always logical... just bolt the inverter leads to the battery and go.

I abhor "down and dirty" with motorhome wiring. It's the root cause of MANY forum posts.
Good way to burn up a latching relay or continuously pop 50 amp breakers.
 
RV is currently at the shop and we are looking at replacing the inverter with a better, more reliable brand because the standby mode for the current inverter does not work. When on shore power, the inverter should automatically flip over and know not to use the house batteries.

Not if yours was wired the way mine was. Mine was set up so that power for the kitchen fridge ALWAYS ran off the 2nd inverter ONLY which always ran off the battery bank or converter.

BTW, a couple of follow-ups.

You never mentioned the fridge and inverter you have installed.

Go back to post #19 where I listed three tells. How many of them are present on your rig?
 
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fast forward a few months to this week....we heard the generator kick on while on shore power for 3 days.....and now we find out that the fridge and the inverter are NOT the original that came with the RV when it was new. EIther the owner or the dealer who sold it to us, replaced both prior to the sale. THe rig only had 3,200 miles on it when we bought it.....very odd.

RV is currently at the shop and we are looking at replacing the inverter with a better, more reliable brand because the standby mode for the current inverter does not work. When on shore power, the inverter should automatically flip over and know not to use the house batteries.
You site 3 issues here, so not clear what to address because it is at dealer anyway.

I will say this. What type of Inverter is in the coach now? Not sure I agree that it should automatically flip? It sounds like what you need is a inverter pass thru switch or have a defective one? I have a off brand no name 2200 watt inverter that connects to a Magnum Dimension Inverter Transfer Switch, If SP is connected all power comes from SP, but if disconnected and IF inverter is ON power comes from the Inverter. The inverter is not ON 24/7 nor does it need to be.
 
Good way to burn up a latching relay or continuously pop 50 amp breakers.
Yep. That's why it's called a "battery disconnect switch". If it doesn't DISCONNECT/CONNECT the battery without harm, SOMETHING IS WIRED INCORRECTLY, or improper under rated components were used... also known as SHORTCUTS.

People also do "magic smoke" hacks in houses. What a surprise to find a live circuit after you've tripped the 200 amp main breaker. 😳
 
People also do "magic smoke" hacks in houses. What a surprise to find a live circuit after you've tripped the 200 amp main breaker. 😳
Couldn't that be case and the system still be properly designed? It kind of depends on the source. i.e what if there is alternate power source properly connected to transfer switch. That's not magic.

Now if the house is wired to allow back feed of electricity without that 200 amp breaker that is illegal and deadly.

Just saying....
 

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