Negative Battery cable

The Rookie

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Ft Irwin
Anyone know what the size of the negative battery cable that runs to the chassis ground is? I’m installing a shunt and want to make sure the gauges match pre and post shunt. I’m fairly confident the POs did not make any modifications.
2017 Windsport 29M.
 
Factory schematic says it's a #2 gauge.

If you haven't already done so, register at Thor's owner resource site so you can download the schematics and much, much more.
 
Anyone know what the size of the negative battery cable that runs to the chassis ground is? I’m installing a shunt and want to make sure the gauges match pre and post shunt. I’m fairly confident the POs did not make any modifications.
2017 Windsport 29M.
Most cables and wires have the AWG printed right on the jacket (casing) so you can see it- might have to chase along the wire to find it. "AWG" usually precedes it, and can be faint.
Schematic also shows as PS mentioned.
 
Anyone know what the size of the negative battery cable that runs to the chassis ground is? I’m installing a shunt and want to make sure the gauges match pre and post shunt. I’m fairly confident the POs did not make any modifications.
2017 Windsport 29M.
Mine is a #2. Pull back the protective sleeve and it on the cable. My cable lug is 3/8" Most shunts (300/400 amp) at 12 mm.
 
Thank you everyone. I’m currently stuck using my phone and I have managed to misplace 2 pairs of reading glasses. Instead if squinting, I took the shortcut of asking.
 
I do not have the equipment to make properly sized terminals. Any advice for finding usable sizes or anywhere to get appropriately sized cables?
 
You can buy the cables on Amazon, or
You can buy the cable and ends and this and make your own (if you have a hammer):

611nt7KKCaL._AC_SY879_.jpg


 
That is awesome and perfect! Thanks again ACE
I use that same crimper, but prefer to use solder slugs with torch and make my own.
Solder is best- crimping is not as good. I then add a sleeve of shrink tube to each lug.
Other places- boatyards, mobile techs, RV centers, auto parts, some garages...
As mentioned, Amazon has many guages and premade to many lengths.
 
Solder is best- crimping is not as good.
I used to think that, and for smaller gauge connections where the wire passes through the terminal that is still true. But for large gauge lugs crimping is generally considered the preferred method for most electrical connections due to its superior mechanical strength, resistance to vibration and heat, and faster application process compared to soldering, which can potentially weaken wires with excessive heat and requires more precise technique to achieve a reliable connection;
 
I used to think that, and for smaller gauge connections where the wire passes through the terminal that is still true. But for large gauge lugs crimping is generally considered the preferred method for most electrical connections due to its superior mechanical strength, resistance to vibration and heat, and faster application process compared to soldering, which can potentially weaken wires with excessive heat and requires more precise technique to achieve a reliable connection;
See above response to ghnl- I have soldered since I was 10 yrs old, so really good at it, but agree about vibration, so I make sure nothing can move when I am done wiring.
In homes, people do not realise that wires get loose just from switching on and off- they pulse each time and can loosen screws on outlets and switches! So periodically one should check all that. Do they? ha! Not "just no"... I crank the hell out of those when I wire a home.
I'll be crimping from now on- big time saver for sure.
(I do melt the solder slug in the lug, and then insert the wire- so casing and wire do not see a lot of heat.)
 

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