Persistent Electrical Issues:

[Ken47]

The 2022 and later Tellaros, Sequences, Scopes, and Rize models with lithium batteries and under-hood generator have one bad design problem in common.

The chassis battery will die in less than a week- no 'bi-directional' charging in these as there is no BIM or device to allow it. Mine dies in 4 days!!

So you have to use a trickle charger on the jumper posts under the bonnet when parked for 2-3 days or more. I did that until I made a more permanent solution.

I installed a trickle charger so when plugged in, my 120V system is live and I feed the hot side of the e-start Trombetta solenoid for B+, and ground buss bar for B-.

Those are likely underneath, so you'd have to feed wire thru the floor to the solenoid, then to the battery side of the shunt, and install a dedicated outlet and plug into shoreline.

DC-DC charger would probably be easiest, instead of a 120VAC unit, as then you do not need the 120VAC outlet- just wire from coach batteries to solenoid and ground. Fuse is needed on the B+ side.
You still need to feed top the chassis B+ hot side of the solenoid as well, then to ground anywhere you can find- locate charger inside- not underneath!! Run B+ cable thru floor chase if you can find it.

Renogy makes a nice DCDC charger, and is pretty easy to set up. You should still should plug into shoreline to keep the chassis battery charged, or you'll drain the coach batteries!

Hire a mobile tech or boatyard to install if you are not comfy doing yourself- most dealers are clueless about this sort of thing.

https://www.renogy.com/12v-20a-dc-to-dc-on-board-battery-charger/

FYI: The “?Final” Explanation!: After months of back-and-forth, THOR sent a mechanic from Indiana to see the RV in PA. He replaced the “BIRD” (Bidirectional Isolator Relay Delay), a solenoid under the floorboards. It is supposed to activate when the Emergency Start button is pushed. Its task is to continue to provide full battery current for a period AFTER the engine starts to power-up all the other circuits. In my case, the solenoid failed to continue to connect the fully charged coach battery beyond the few seconds it took to start the engine. The chassis battery was low from the Winegard connection to it (requiring the emergency start in the first place). In the absence of a persistent connection to the coach battery the depleted chassis battery could not properly activate all the other circuits when the engine started. Hence all the warning lights and fault messages. A properly functioning BIRD leaves a good battery in the circuit while the RAM electrical systems comes up to speed. He strongly recommended holding the “Emergency Start” button for 10 seconds after the engine starts, every time it is used.

 

[dkoldman]

FYI: The “?Final” Explanation!: After months of back-and-forth, THOR sent a mechanic from Indiana to see the RV in PA. He replaced the “BIRD” (Bidirectional Isolator Relay Delay), a solenoid under the floorboards. It is supposed to activate when the Emergency Start button is pushed. Its task is to continue to provide full battery current for a period AFTER the engine starts to power-up all the other circuits. In my case, the solenoid failed to continue to connect the fully charged coach battery beyond the few seconds it took to start the engine. The chassis battery was low from the Winegard connection to it (requiring the emergency start in the first place). In the absence of a persistent connection to the coach battery the depleted chassis battery could not properly activate all the other circuits when the engine started. Hence all the warning lights and fault messages. A properly functioning BIRD leaves a good battery in the circuit while the RAM electrical systems comes up to speed. He strongly recommended holding the “Emergency Start” button for 10 seconds after the engine starts, every time it is used.

Did he recommend a replacement for the Winegard? That is true root cause

 

[Chateau_Nomad]

Did he recommend a replacement for the Winegard? That is true root cause

If you frequently use the Winegard a stopgap measure would be to install a simple inline ON/OFF switch for it. I disabled power to mine in storage by removing the dome cover and unplugging the power plug to the unit. I've since found I rarely even use the Winegard integrated OTA antenna. Phone hotspot streaming or in remote areas just use Starlink is just easier.

 

[Ken47]

Did he recommend a replacement for the Winegard? That is true root cause

He did install the on-off switch I bought from Winegard (that they said should have been part of the original installation). This is what he said he did when pressed for something in writing?? ) : “When you turn it on with the battery switch in the on position, it will take several minutes to energize, register, and begin broadcasting. Just as any electronic device, you must allow for boot up time, then refresh the device's list of available networks. Please make sure you are turning on the switch above the D/S couch and not the antenna booster in the cabinet.”Sounds like the best I'm going to get. I'm thinking of selling it as a "100 square-foot, well-appointed backyard mother-in-law suite"

tightened. Replaced the MODULE, ISOLATOR RELAY, BIRD GAS, POTTED.

 

[RSKDSK]

BTW the winegard is junk, just replace it with starlink..

 

[Gus52]

I posted this for the Gemini models but you may find the information useful. I just found the two power wire that come down from the Winegard and added a switch to allow me to turn the unit off. I did this because I didn't want to have the unit on while at home presenting a network to myself and others.

It truly is an Easy Add, Good luck

Compass or Gemini Winegard Power Switch, easy add

We have a 2024 Gemini 23TW. There is a TV above the door and the Winegard is directly above that. There is a hole through the top and two cable come down. The gray one is the RF signal to devices like the TV and the black cable is the power (white is ground, orange or yellow is 12 VDC). By...

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