Popping noise under floor..

[Likes to tow]

I just returned from a trip with my CF29CK 5th wheel. The entire 5 days we were camped there was a VERY LOUD popping noise under the floor when we walked from one side of the trailer to another. It was perfectly level, sitting on a concrete pad and unhooked from the truck.Both rear jacks were down with proper support. Increasing or decreasing the rear jack support had no effect on the noise.



This noise occured every single time you walked from the stove to the table area. It appears to beright under where you would stand when in front of the stove and the other place is right in front of the sofa. It sounds like someone hitting the bottom of the plywood floor with a hammer from underneath. You can actually hear it from outside the trailer if someone is walking around inside.



Since the under side of the trailer is covered in a plastic material I decided to wait until I got home to find the source of this annoying noise. Of course when we arrived home and put it on the concrete pad in front of the house the noise was notthere!! I want to inspect the components of the floor structure and the slide mechanisms. Something is really wrong here. It makes you really nervous when considering all the posts you read on this and other forums concerning the many problems with Lippert frames and axles. I have already had to replace one axle when I first purchased this unit because of scuffing tire wear on the left side rear tire. The new axle totally corrected my problem and all tires are wearing very well now. My Spring inspection of brakes and running gear showed no signs of any problems.



When you read all the forums it seems too many people are having trouble with the structural integrity of all brands of 5th wheels. Broken pin box mounts, broken spring shackle welds, cracked frame cross members and tire wear due to improper axle alignment are just a few of the many things you read or hear about. I assume everyone is like me and feel any issues with a frame or running gear is totally unacceptable!! You know there will be wear and tear on things and leaks will occur. Proper maintenance can correct or prevent these types of issues but welds cracking is just sloppy fabrication with untrained people. This should be investigated.



I'm not even sure I have structural problems. But a noise like this is a red flag. How hard is it to remove the under cover from the bottom of the trailer???? Most importantly, how hard is it to go back on tightly???!!!Edited by: Pull Dog

 

[Lloyd S]

It's not hard at all to drop the membrane down. Just remove the strip and screws that are holding on the sides.
Putting it back up is a little more work. Go's better with two people, but you can do it alone.

 

[Hunter11]

As Lloyd said, two people are better than one when dealing with the membrane that covers the bottom.

 

[lmakepeace]

One trick I have used is use good strong duct tape and pull the skin tight and tape it to the frame while you are putting the screws back into the strips (using a cordless drill with a driver bit works the best).

Good luck with the investigation... While taking the skin off will expose the frame, the underside of the sub floor is still covered with another skin (which isn't easily removed and replaced). So, you won't be able to inspect the floor joist (Aluminum) without cutting away the sub floor skin...

Did you notice any shifting of the flooring when it was popping?

Good luck!
Lewis






Edited by: lmakepeace

 

[mwebber78]

Near a heat vent? I doubt you'll find anything wrong with your floor framing, there is actually two levels to your floor framing. One, the primary frame/lateralbridgingof the coach - you'll see this framing when you drop the membrane. Two, the floor structure itself is fabricated, insulated, then it's wrapped in a black Darco membrane. You WON'T be able to see the internal alum. floor framing. The best you can do it look for a gap between the primary frame and the floor structure, inspect for loose waste tank mounts, and inspect the slide mechanism.

The popping you hear is the one benefit of a single piece Structurewood sub-floor like Keystone uses on the Montana and other lines. T & G plywood likes to dry out and "pop" along the seams, heck even my house has a few annoying creeks and pops on the floor, and it doesn't drive down the road!

 

[rcflyer-XRD]

One trick I have used is use good strong duct tape and pull the skin tight and tape it to the frame while you are putting the screws back into the strips (using a cordless drill with a driver bit works the best).

Good luck with the investigation... While taking the skin off will expose the frame, the underside of the sub floor is still covered with another skin (which isn't easily removed and replaced). So, you won't be able to inspect the floor joist (Aluminum) without cutting away the sub floor skin...

Did you notice any shifting of the flooring when it was popping?

Good luck!
Lewis

X2 on using duct tape. I found the gorilla tape works very well. On the very front I use double sided carpet tape to help prevent wind getting between the skin and the trailer. You still need the original strips. If you have ever considered a rear view camera this is a good time to run a cable for it where it is not exposed. Check the black and gray tank attachments while you have them exposed. Last check all of the frame welds you can see. Also check all of the wiring where it runs through frame holes. I found my main power had been run through an opening that had sharp edges. This required some tape on the wiring and rerouting to avoid the sharp edges.

 

[John B-XRD]

I just returned from a trip with my CF29CK 5th wheel. The entire 5 days we were camped there was a VERY LOUD popping noise under the floor when we walked from one side of the trailer to another. It was perfectly level, sitting on a concrete pad and unhooked from the truck.Both rear jacks were down with proper support. Increasing or decreasing the rear jack support had no effect on the noise.



This noise occured every single time you walked from the stove to the table area. It appears to beright under where you would stand when in front of the stove and the other place is right in front of the sofa. It sounds like someone hitting the bottom of the plywood floor with a hammer from underneath. You can actually hear it from outside the trailer if someone is walking around inside.



Since the under side of the trailer is covered in a plastic material I decided to wait until I got home to find the source of this annoying noise. Of course when we arrived home and put it on the concrete pad in front of the house the noise was notthere!! I want to inspect the components of the floor structure and the slide mechanisms. Something is really wrong here. It makes you really nervous when considering all the posts you read on this and other forums concerning the many problems with Lippert frames and axles. I have already had to replace one axle when I first purchased this unit because of scuffing tire wear on the left side rear tire. The new axle totally corrected my problem and all tires are wearing very well now. My Spring inspection of brakes and running gear showed no signs of any problems.



When you read all the forums it seems too many people are having trouble with the structural integrity of all brands of 5th wheels. Broken pin box mounts, broken spring shackle welds, cracked frame cross members and tire wear due to improper axle alignment are just a few of the many things you read or hear about. I assume everyone is like me and feel any issues with a frame or running gear is totally unacceptable!! You know there will be wear and tear on things and leaks will occur. Proper maintenance can correct or prevent these types of issues but welds cracking is just sloppy fabrication with untrained people. This should be investigated.



I'm not even sure I have structural problems. But a noise like this is a red flag. How hard is it to remove the under cover from the bottom of the trailer???? Most importantly, how hard is it to go back on tightly???!!!

Have you contacted either your dealer or the company service dept. They can help especially if it is something they have dealt with before. As was said above plywoood can make noises after it dires out or possible shrinks a little. We have none of those problems with our unit. WAS it really that loud like a hammer hitting the bottom??? Wow that should be very readily found. good luck & safe traveling!

 

[larrytbm]

It might not be a structural problem. What does the popping noise really sound like? Plywood joints creak, rarely pop. Does it sound like metal popping? If so, keep in mind that the furnace duct runs front-to-back in the floor, it is very thin aluminum, so it can easily pop and it has enough surface area (plus no insulation around it) that it could be heard throughout the trailer and outside. So, if you walk across the trailer very slowly and hear the popping, check to see if it is happening directly in-line with the furance ducts.



Also, as has been stated, dropping the bottom fabric will only expose the underbelly ( tanks and steel frame), the actually floor structure is hidden by a second fabric layer. If your problem is NOT the aluminum furnace duct, then you need to let the dealer find and fix it.

 

[Likes to tow]

Some good information here from everyone. Thanks to all. I will report back in a few days of my findings. This noise was not like wood creaking. It was actually a popping sound, very sudden, very sharp.....very weird. It did however sound like it could be from the aluminum duct work flexing and suddenly popping.Edited by: Pull Dog

 

[larrytbm]

Some good information here from everyone.   Thanks to all.   I will report back in a few days of my findings.This noise was not like wood creaking.   It was actually a popping sound,  very sudden,  very sharp.....very weird.   It did however sound like it could be from the aluminum duct work flexing and suddenly popping.

If the aluminum duct was the problem, recreating the conditions may take some work. It isn't just about how level the trailer is, but also difference in temperature between the plywood floor and the underbelly area. But, it is ez to remove a vent to try a test fix. The duct is about 2 inches tall and 14 inches wide, so a small wedge (say 3/4 inch wide, several inches long and slightly taller than the duct) can be inserted in the center of the duct. Even rigid styrofoam should work.



The duct on my old Cruiser would sometimes pop during it's cycling due to temp changes.

 

[Holly Louise]

Apparently no solution has been found for this extremely annoying problem. We have been experiencing an intermittent very loud snapping noise also, but usually without ANY other movement happening at all. It was suggested by Lippert (maker of the hydraulic system, et al) that truckers experience a problem all the time called STICTION. They suggested we use/replace some kind of oil in the hydraulic system of the automatic stabilizers. (Do not know the product name; my husband who bought it is unavailable at the moment, but I'll post later.)

We have done that per instructions, and there is no change whatsoever.

I have thought it may be related to expansion and contraction with changes in temperature throughout the day, however, it would seem that that effect would take place over a period of a couple hours in the morning, and again in the evening commensurate with sunrise and sunset. Our problem occurs at any time of day or night and has been loud enough to wake us up!

I have just joined this forum in hopes of finding some answer, and will search for other threads. In the meantime, if anyone knows anything about this, PLEASE give a shout. Thanks!

P.S. We have been traveling and living in a fifth wheel for months every year for 12 years and never experienced this with either of our other two units. (First was Alumascape, second was Open Range)

 

[dbflyrod]

Just a thought but my furnace ducting pops as the heat is applied by the furnace. Kind of annoying but you do get more used to it after you know what it is.

 

[Holly Louise]

Thanks, dbflyrod. It does not seem to be related to heating/cooling, but I haven't ruled it out yet. Was just perusing a hydraulic machinery website (very technical) after Googling for "stiction". I've sent links to my engineer husband to see if any of what I read may applly, such as humidity.

 

[speedster]

Same issue in our 2013 CF345RF, been there since about 6 months, suspect floor delaminated or screws pulled from the floor joist, no way to fix it without pulling vinyl flooring which ain't going to happen.Dealer dropped Crossroads to many issues

 

[Holly Louise]

Ours is for certain a "stiction" issue in the hydraulic leveling system, as yet unresolved. Taking in for warranty work where hopefully they'll address the issue.