power connector

Dave Randolph

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 8, 2024
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184
Location
Louisville
2015 Thor Axis 25.1 more questions from a newbie
I have a 30-amp male on the rv
I have a 30-amp male with the notched blades to a 30-amp flat blade adapter, a 30amp male/female dogbone and a 50a male /30-amp female dogbone

question 1) What I don't have is a female that fits the male on the RV. Suggestions please


question 2) I bought some LED clearance lights. wires are black and red. The wires on the existing lights are both black. The wires themselves - one is shiny brass/copper, the other is dark. is is Red to dark wire or black to dark??

question 3) Decent shore power surge protection that won't break the bank but works well. I've seen some more than $400 and other that are $80. The latter doesn't have a reset button, so one power surge and it has to be replaced. Recommendations

4) do you use the clear sewer connectors or the clear one with the water line input to help flush the tanks? Can you use the same clear connector on the gray & black or get one for each?


I think that is it for now.

Thanks for all your help!
 

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It appears you are missing the actual power cord for the RV. It will have a female twistlok connect for the RV end and the flat blade 30 amp RV on the other end. Available on the jungle site much cheaper than your local RV parts store.
 
There's a picture somewhere in my signature thread.

The earliest protectors were just household breakers in a plastic box with a lead in and a lead out.
 
2015 Thor Axis 25.1 more questions from a newbie
I have a 30-amp male on the rv
I have a 30-amp male with the notched blades to a 30-amp flat blade adapter, a 30amp male/female dogbone and a 50a male /30-amp female dogbone

question 1) What I don't have is a female that fits the male on the RV. Suggestions please


question 2) I bought some LED clearance lights. wires are black and red. The wires on the existing lights are both black. The wires themselves - one is shiny brass/copper, the other is dark. is is Red to dark wire or black to dark??

question 3) Decent shore power surge protection that won't break the bank but works well. I've seen some more than $400 and other that are $80. The latter doesn't have a reset button, so one power surge and it has to be replaced. Recommendations

4) do you use the clear sewer connectors or the clear one with the water line input to help flush the tanks? Can you use the same clear connector on the gray & black or get one for each?


I think that is it for now.

Thanks for all your help!
1) answered by ACE
2) no idea, but may require using a 12v testing tool.
3) I use a Bulldog. It doesn’t have a push button reset, but does have a replaceable fuse inside. It also has an app via Bluetooth for monitoring.
4) I use a clear connector between the 2 hose connections and a clear 90° elbow at the in ground sewer connection. I have a single output for both tanks, so I just connect one hose everytime. Pretty sure you can just figure out what works best for you.
 
1. As above you are missing the RV power cord. They do make an adapter that allows you to connect a 12g home 110 extension cord into the male 30amp RV port for 15 amp power to the RV
2. The red wire on your new LEDs should connect to the 12 volt RV wire. After you access the wires be sure they are not shorting out and use a meter to determine which is the two wires is hot (12v). The other should be continuous with ground. Make your connections and check the light.
 
4. I use a clear elbow at the dumpsite end of the house to confirm the line is cleared after the grey tank has finished. The sewer line is not the way to flush your black tank. Most rigs have a flushing port for that purpose that connects to a standard female hose fitting. I don't flush my gray tank other than with water from the sink.
 
Go with the Progressive Industries surge protector. It is less than $200, on sale at Amazon, and the company support is outstanding. They have replaced mine twice over the years, free of charge.

For the LEDs, strip back a 1/4 inch of the leads and touch to a battery. This will help you determine which side is the ground.
 
1. As above you are missing the RV power cord. They do make an adapter that allows you to connect a 12g home 110 extension cord into the male 30amp RV port for 15 amp power to the RV
2. The red wire on your new LEDs should connect to the 12 volt RV wire. After you access the wires be sure they are not shorting out and use a meter to determine which is the two wires is hot (12v). The other should be continuous with ground. Make your connections and check the light.

I hooked one up backwards and it didn't work , it also didn't blow out
The issues in having is that some of the lights had been fixed before so what should have been white wires and black wires are both black. Others were correct so I was able to figure it out. I still have 5 more to do on the back across the top

I'm going to get a 20 or 25 ft power cable with the correct ends
 
4. I use a clear elbow at the dumpsite end of the house to confirm the line is cleared after the grey tank has finished. The sewer line is not the way to flush your black tank. Most rigs have a flushing port for that purpose that connects to a standard female hose fitting. I don't flush my gray tank other than with water from the sink.
Ok I saw a rhino clear 90 degree elbow with a hose fitting to back flush
 
Go with the Progressive Industries surge protector. It is less than $200, on sale at Amazon, and the company support is outstanding. They have replaced mine twice over the years, free of charge.

For the LEDs, strip back a 1/4 inch of the leads and touch to a battery. This will help you determine which side is the ground.
I got a sure protector on eBay for about $50 that sucks face recommended
 

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