Replacing OEM Awning lights

[bennyb2]

I'm having issues with both my awning lights that have stopped working. I've checked fuses and they are not blown. During my research, these OEM lights were pretty cheap when first installed and I don't like having to roll out the awning in order to use the lights.

Has anyone bypassed those lights and just mounted some higher quality LED strips up under the awning cover. I'm considering just mounting some "Boogey Lights" strips with their 3M tape just under the closed awning and wiring them directly into the OEM awning lights wiring. I wasn't planning on taking out the OEM lights, as they are sewn into the fabric.

Any suggestions on making an aftermarket investment such as this would be much appreciated.

Steve

 

[Ford truck guy]

I'm having issues with both my awning lights that have stopped working. I've checked fuses and they are not blown. During my research, these OEM lights were pretty cheap when first installed and I don't like having to roll out the awning in order to use the lights.

Has anyone bypassed those lights and just mounted some higher quality LED strips up under the awning cover. I'm considering just mounting some "Boogey Lights" strips with their 3M tape just under the closed awning and wiring them directly into the OEM awning lights wiring. I wasn't planning on taking out the OEM lights, as they are sewn into the fabric.

Any suggestions on making an aftermarket investment such as this would be much appreciated.

Steve

Look into this website - https://www.superbrightleds.com/led-strips-and-bars/flexible-led-strip-lights/cool_white

You can choose light colors, mounting options, power supply, eat... I called them and they walked me through exactly what I needed back in 2016 when I added them to my last Redwood...Exactly how you said it, under the awning on the side of the RV...

 

[XCMARK]

the lights in the tube are about a 1/2 hour to change out , they last about 3~4 seasons then the water and winter kills them. I use a 1/4" wide sharp chisel to clean out the lights and glue, wipe it out with acetone and glue in the new ones then but splice the wires and tuck them in the tube.

 

[XCMARK]

to add to what Joe said above this is what I would suggest to add some light under the canopy .
https://www.superbrightleds.com/led...c-axk80-c36f-10c16f-12vac+color-Natural~4000K

 

[bennyb2]

Look into this website - https://www.superbrightleds.com/led-strips-and-bars/flexible-led-strip-lights/cool_white

You can choose light colors, mounting options, power supply, eat... I called them and they walked me through exactly what I needed back in 2016 when I added them to my last Redwood...Exactly how you said it, under the awning on the side of the RV...

Thank you for your comments. When you applied the LED's to the side of the RV, did you just splice into the wiring for the original OEM lights in order to get your power. It would seem to be the easiest thing to do since there would already be a light switch to control it.

 

[bennyb2]

to add to what Joe said above this is what I would suggest to add some light under the canopy .
https://www.superbrightleds.com/led...c-axk80-c36f-10c16f-12vac+color-Natural~4000K

I reached out to SuperBrightLEDs and this is what they suggested.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/led...erproof-hl-ip67-90cri-5m+volts-12~VDC#reviews

How does this compare to what you used and he was asking me whether or not I needed VDC or VAC? I was surprised he didn't understand what I needed.

 

[XCMARK]

I reached out to SuperBrightLEDs and this is what they suggested.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/led...erproof-hl-ip67-90cri-5m+volts-12~VDC#reviews

How does this compare to what you used and he was asking me whether or not I needed VDC or VAC? I was surprised he didn't understand what I needed.

12 volt DC (VDC) supplied voltage. as far as the color of the light , the kelvin rateing ( 2700K is more of a light yellow light, 3500K is a white light ( close to sunlight), 5000K the light is getting more light blue in color , 6000+K is blue light.

Make sure whatever you pick its IP-67 or higher water rating.

If you install the 20MM wide aluminum channel with the frosted lens that will help cut down on glare and if you wanted more light you can install a 2nd strip of lights in the channel. Most stick in place lights are smaller than 10 MM wide.

 

[bennyb2]

Considering going with the Boogey Lights

After doing quite a bit of research, I've decided on going with Boogey Lights.

https://www.boogeylights.com

This is the description of what I'm going with:

Brand:Boogey LightsLED Strip Length:1 - 16' LED StripColor Configuration:Multi-Color RGBxSingle Color LED Options:White (6000k)Single Color Kit Configuration:No switches (you provide your own)Dual Color LED Options:Not Applicable.Dual Color Kit Configuration:Not Applicable.RGB LED Options:RGBRGB Kit Configuration:G2 RGBx w/ RF+Bluetooth, 900 RGB/600 xx LEDs max, G2 M7 RF RemoteRGBx LED Options:RGBW (RGB + White / 2500k)RGBx Kit Configuration:G2 RGBx w/ RF+Bluetooth, 900 RGB/600 xx LEDs max, G2 M7 RF RemoteCoating Tint:ClearPCB Color:Black PCBDimmer Switch:NoneAdd Power Converter:None

As I mentioned before, I'm hoping to just splice into the OEM wiring for the awning lights and put these on the side just underneath the awning. The one question I asked that they could not answer was in regards to the amperage of the original wiring. This was their response:

Depends on how much amperage the existing circuit is rated for as to whether or not it will handle the increase in power adding our lights to your existing circuit.

Of course they cannot answer this remotely, so I'm hoping someone on this site will be able to tell me if the existing wiring will support these new lights.

Anyone with a 2015 38RL have experience with this and can help?

Steve

 

[XCMARK]

LED light doesn't draw hardly any power. the last Awning light that I put in the tube where 4.8 watts per meter (3'-6") and they were much brighter than the OEM strip. The entire strip in the awning light is less then 2 amps at 12 volts DC, assuming you doubled that load I would not have any question that circuit would be fine and about 25~50% max load. The wire that goes out to the tube on the awning is maybe rated at 3~4 amps but the wire in the RV should be 10~15 amp rated (14 awg) .

 

[bennyb2]

LED light doesn't draw hardly any power. the last Awning light that I put in the tube where 4.8 watts per meter (3'-6") and they were much brighter than the OEM strip. The entire strip in the awning light is less then 2 amps at 12 volts DC, assuming you doubled that load I would not have any question that circuit would be fine and about 25~50% max load. The wire that goes out to the tube on the awning is maybe rated at 3~4 amps but the wire in the RV should be 10~15 amp rated (14 awg) .

Thank you for the additional information. I think I'm going to give this a try. I've always enjoyed doing my own work, but I'm not the greatest electrician. This will definitely be a learning experience, but I certainly can't make the situation any worse, especially since none of the OEM lights are working.

 

[XCMARK]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X5RW7H4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

this the lights I used in the OEM location

 

[Germans]

After doing quite a bit of research, I've decided on going with Boogey Lights.

https://www.boogeylights.com

This is the description of what I'm going with:

Brand:Boogey LightsLED Strip Length:1 - 16' LED StripColor Configuration:Multi-Color RGBxSingle Color LED Options:White (6000k)Single Color Kit Configuration:No switches (you provide your own)Dual Color LED Options:Not Applicable.Dual Color Kit Configuration:Not Applicable.RGB LED Options:RGBRGB Kit Configuration:G2 RGBx w/ RF+Bluetooth, 900 RGB/600 xx LEDs max, G2 M7 RF RemoteRGBx LED Options:RGBW (RGB + White / 2500k)RGBx Kit Configuration:G2 RGBx w/ RF+Bluetooth, 900 RGB/600 xx LEDs max, G2 M7 RF RemoteCoating Tint:ClearPCB Color:Black PCBDimmer Switch:NoneAdd Power Converter:None

As I mentioned before, I'm hoping to just splice into the OEM wiring for the awning lights and put these on the side just underneath the awning. The one question I asked that they could not answer was in regards to the amperage of the original wiring. This was their response:

Depends on how much amperage the existing circuit is rated for as to whether or not it will handle the increase in power adding our lights to your existing circuit.

Of course they cannot answer this remotely, so I'm hoping someone on this site will be able to tell me if the existing wiring will support these new lights.

Anyone with a 2015 38RL have experience with this and can help?

Steve

I replaced both of my awning lights that I got from Amazon used existing wiring and put them under awning. I also added programmable time in parallel with switch so that switch or timer brings on lights. Easy to do. Just clean off area below awning when retracted and use self stick tape that comes with lights. I got the kind that has a track you mount first then led strip goes inside the strip. I put controller right at top inside rail where wire comes out an awning rails close in. Had them on for about six months now. Work great. Also color changing ones. We have a 2015 36FB. Good luck.

 

[Don S-REDW]

Regarding power for your lights, (old or new) our 2016 38RL has a inline fuse behind the switch that had to be accessed by removing the switch. Keep this in mind if you find that you have no power to the lights.

 

[Cactusjack-REDW]

LED Awning Lights

After doing quite a bit of research, I've decided on going with Boogey Lights.

https://www.boogeylights.com

This is the description of what I'm going with:

Brand:Boogey LightsLED Strip Length:1 - 16' LED StripColor Configuration:Multi-Color RGBxSingle Color LED Options:White (6000k)Single Color Kit Configuration:No switches (you provide your own)Dual Color LED Options:Not Applicable.Dual Color Kit Configuration:Not Applicable.RGB LED Options:RGBRGB Kit Configuration:G2 RGBx w/ RF+Bluetooth, 900 RGB/600 xx LEDs max, G2 M7 RF RemoteRGBx LED Options:RGBW (RGB + White / 2500k)RGBx Kit Configuration:G2 RGBx w/ RF+Bluetooth, 900 RGB/600 xx LEDs max, G2 M7 RF RemoteCoating Tint:ClearPCB Color:Black PCBDimmer Switch:NoneAdd Power Converter:None

As I mentioned before, I'm hoping to just splice into the OEM wiring for the awning lights and put these on the side just underneath the awning. The one question I asked that they could not answer was in regards to the amperage of the original wiring. This was their response:

Depends on how much amperage the existing circuit is rated for as to whether or not it will handle the increase in power adding our lights to your existing circuit.

Of course they cannot answer this remotely, so I'm hoping someone on this site will be able to tell me if the existing wiring will support these new lights.

Anyone with a 2015 38RL have experience with this and can help?

Steve

Hi Steve, I own a 2015 36RL Redwood and had to replace both awnings which had lights in the roller tubes. At first, I reached out to Colorado Awning and came to the quick understanding that they no longer manufacture awnings with the wiring molded into the fabric to service the LED lights in the awning tube. They went away from that because of the wear and tear with the awning coming in and out and the eventual breakage of that wiring which did occur on my RV after 3-4 years. This lack of replacement was an easy problem to overcome, since I never really liked having LED lights in the awning tube, which meant you could only use them when the awnings were all the way out. No flexibility when the wind was up and you wanted to keep the awnings in a reduced exposure (reefed as we sometimes say) but wanting more outside lighting.

I researched and decided to put new LED lighting underneath the awning cover and it works well. I was able to wire it directly to the remainder wire that came out of the side of the Redwood, properly crimped, shrink wrapped and tucked back in. I also purchased with the LED’s, 4 ft. Long multiple mounting sleeves with the 3M tape already on them. Once those were attached snug to the awning flange bracket sleeve under the two new RV awnings, it was very easy to slide the LED strips on the sleeves. At first I was hoping to acquire longer sleeves but realized working with 4 feet at a time worked well and I just abutted one to the next until I reached the desired length. I used IP64 Rated 12/24 Volt Weatherproof Outdoor LED Strips with 3500 Kelvin rating which is a slightly softer bright while similar to what was in the tube from the Redwood factory. No worries on current draw, however I did cross check the load demand on the new strips against the existing wire ratings coming out of the RV. On a side note, I do think however that Redwood could upsize wire in the future for auxiliary applications. I suspect they just matched it to what was woven into the Colorado Awning material.

By the way, I left the original now non-functioning LED lights in the awning tube thinking I might at some point use a quick disconnect 12v wire supply to them for a special party that might happen. This special party has not happened and that “bad idea” was never executed.

I hope this helps……….Jack

 

[bennyb2]

I've pulled the trigger on replacing the LED strip

Thanks to everyone for all your input. After carefully considering my options, I've decided to just go with the 16' strip from Boogey Lights. I passed on the color one mainly due to the additional installation challenge it would have created for mounting the controller inside the rig. However, I did purchase their on/off switch that is also a dimmer.

After pulling out the OEM switch, I did find the inline fuse and it was blown. After replacing the fuse, my main awning lights came back on. However, as mentioned above, it was a bad design on Redwood's part to make it where you have to have the awning out in order to have light.

One question I do have that I'm hoping someone can give me some advice on, it appears that both OEM awning LED's are controlled by the one on/off switch. Is that the case? If not, how could I go about putting them on separate switches, as it appears as though there is only one lead coming to the switch for both awnings. I hope that make sense in what I'm asking. Thoughts?

Thanks again for everyone's input, as it gave me the confidence to do this project on my own.

Steve