Thor Technical Support says to NOT use water pressure regulator

And
Using shore water has never been justified on this forum.
I've asked a dozen times for the reasoning and there is never an adequate answer other than criminally long showers.

Use your tank and pump and you'll always have the same volume and pressure no matter where you are.

So, yes, I guess I can find a reason to not use a pressure regulator.

Use your internal tank and pump.
(I carry two regulators. One is none)


I'm just curious, if you always use your internal tank and pump why do you carry two regulators? If your Axis is like mine you don't need a regulator to fill the internal tank, you can just turn down the hose valve a little if it is spraying all over on the fill opening. Do you use the regulators when using the blank tank flush input? I haven't used a regulator for my blank tank flush input yet, but have thought about it.

Thanks
 
If my internal tank
Gets contaminated
Cracks
Filler comes loose
Pump quits and I don't want to mess with it at the moment
My hose won't reach the passenger side
But
Mostly
One is none.
While a shore water isn't my first choice, it is a choice in case of failure of my first choice.

I carry two in case one is bent or broken or lost or left behind or needs LOANED OUT.
one is none.
 
And
Using shore water has never been justified on this forum.
I've asked a dozen times for the reasoning and there is never an adequate answer other than criminally long showers.

Use your tank and pump and you'll always have the same volume and pressure no matter where you are.

So, yes, I guess I can find a reason to not use a pressure regulator.

Use your internal tank and pump.
(I carry two regulators. One is none)




Ditto. In 6 years, I've only direct connected to campground water once (with a regulator set to 45psi) - and still had problems like backflow into tank and overflow. Yes, I know that's probably a valve issue I could track down - but I've never said I was ambitious enough to tackle a problem that truly isn't a problem if there's an easy work-around.

Takes 10 minutes or less to connect hose, inline filter, and fill our 60 gallon fresh tank. Easy peasy. As Duck says - adequate and consistent pressure within plumbing specs, all day every day.

Bonus? One less shore connected item to worry about should we ever find ourselves in a crisis bug-out situation (storms, fires, flood warning, etc)
 
We bug out zzzoooo fast.
No sewer hose, no water hose, about 1/2 the time no electric cord, drivers seat ready, keys kept in the ignition. Front blind goes up and we're gone.

No need to do this, no need not to do this.
 
Common sense is much more rare than one would expect.

Just down the road from Appomattox court house - RV park 200psi. They warn you to use a good pressure regulator. I used a cheep one at the faucet and the good one at the RV. I had 90 psi from that cheep one alone! I put the good one after the cheep one at the faucet to protect the hose.

Been to three others that had 150psi. With no regulator you will blow your pex fittings.

Lower pressure than your pressure regulator is set at you will not loose much through the regulator.

Use a pressure regulator always. - Then again you might want to clean up and rebuild your RV anyway. At least it would not be a poop volcano, but that is off topic and a story for another day.
 
Do they have water hooks up at RV sites? I will have to look next time. FWIW Our SOB RV does not even have a City Fill setting. We have Fresh Water Tank Fill and Normal. So to add water we switch Valve to Fresh Water Tank Fill, when finished we put it back to Normal. Easy Peasey.

We only get electrical hooks up when the price is about the same as as dry campsite. If we do have sewer at our site, we only use it on the way out. Our gauges still work correctly; so we can easily manage the water. When we get down to 1/3 tank we turn our conservation techniques up a notch, or I begin to question my wife why are we staying here so long? I did cut and put a special end on my SP cord so I can easily connect / disassemble versus having to pull the male end that connects to the pole all the way through my port opening in electrical compartment floor.

When we leave...

1. I always check for and putaway the SP cord if it is attached 1st. No exceptions
2. I then start engine and bring in the slide
3. I press the auto retract button ( this is the longest pole in the tent. The jacks can all be up but it is still telling me wait so I wait till that final LED and beeping stops.
4. Release brake and we are on the road again

Total estimated time is 5 minutes
 

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