USE/STORE Swtich

Yeah I did that yesterday and it seemed to act normal... until today when I check on it and so forth... seemed to be mixed up again.... so i switched the wires back and it appeared to be working as it should until I went back and unplugged the coach after letting the batteries charge back to 13.4 unplugged and back to the opposite... just seems overly weird... I may try testing the switch itself and seeing if it is something with that... i would have thought a simple switch and wiring as it was before would solve that problem... the joys of problem solving.

I really appreciate your input.
 
Yeah I did that yesterday and it seemed to act normal... until today when I check on it and so forth... seemed to be mixed up again.... so i switched the wires back and it appeared to be working as it should until I went back and unplugged the coach after letting the batteries charge back to 13.4 unplugged and back to the opposite... just seems overly weird... I may try testing the switch itself and seeing if it is something with that... i would have thought a simple switch and wiring as it was before would solve that problem... the joys of problem solving.

I really appreciate your input.
Could be a defective new latching relay as well.
 
I will have someone gove me a hand checking that... I'm new to messing with the electrical stuff but want to get more comfortable with it, as I'd prefer a DIY approach where possible
 
OK - We have determined that both the old and new Solenoids are both good and that it is most likely the 4 gang switch- any one have an idea on what part that is? The back of the switch does not have a part number and google has not been helpful. It is a 4 gang switch, 2 with 6 terminals and 2 with 2 terminals...
 

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OK - We have determined that both the old and new Solenoids are both good and that it is most likely the 4 gang switch- any one have an idea on what part that is? The back of the switch does not have a part number and google has not been helpful. It is a 4 gang switch, 2 with 6 terminals and 2 with 2 terminals...
L-R, looks like DPDT, DPDT, SPST, SPST. All can be individually replaced for not a lot of money, as opposed to trying to find the entire array. (see last paragraph if you don't care what these actually are.. the geek in me tends to come out for such questions.):geek:

You can replace any of these 4 if defective, not the whole bank (unless they are all fried- but can check each with a continiuty meter (VOM or ohm meter) They just snap into the base plate. Back cover can come off to reveal side clips on each switch.

DPDT (double pole, double throw) has 6 spades- center is common. For awning in-out, or other on-off-on application.

Note: if the DPDT returns to center by itself, probably a DPDT 'momentary', as you would use for an awning control, so you don't accidentally leave it on for extend or retract- tho my awning has an auto retract at the end of the extend cycle to take up slack- turns off automatically after a couple seconds.
I'd want a momentary DPDT for the awning anyways.

SPST (single pole, single throw) is just on-off. Usually breaks continuity on the B+ leg to the lamp/device.

You can find these individual switches in Amazon, or most any electrical supply, or even Walmart. Take old one with you for dimensional fitment. Nothing special about any of these- very common.
Some auto parts places have these as well. The guy at the counter might be able to test the whole array, and help diagnose any that are faulty. Advance auto is pretty good place to find such a person.
 
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OK - We have determined that both the old and new Solenoids are both good and that it is most likely the 4 gang switch- any one have an idea on what part that is? The back of the switch does not have a part number and google has not been helpful. It is a 4 gang switch, 2 with 6 terminals and 2 with 2 terminals...
I’m curious as to how you determined that both the old and new relays were good. I have the exact same problem with my use/store switch and have a replacement relay coming in a few days. Guess I should order a DPDT switch as well, especially since it is not that expensive.
 
Thank you you. I am very thankful for this group.

I just orderded the switch. Hopefully, it comes soon and I can take care of it by the weekend.
I’m curious as to how you determined that both the old and new relays were good. I have the exact same problem with my use/store switch and have a replacement relay coming in a few days. Guess I should order a DPDT switch as well, especially since it is not that expensive.
A neighbor/ friend is an electrician and hooked up a battery to the relay and tested the open close function that way.
 
It's more than a simple DPDT rocker switch.
It's a DPDT center off momentary switch (spring return to center-off).
What Ace said, esp if for awning... switches are not really expensive anyways and dirt-simple to replace.
Just have to match the style. Go to auto parts, RV, Walmart, or where ever there is a good selection of this type of switch. Too bad Radio Shack is gone- you could actually ask someone that works there.
 
I’m curious as to how you determined that both the old and new relays were good. I have the exact same problem with my use/store switch and have a replacement relay coming in a few days. Guess I should order a DPDT switch as well, especially since it is not that expensive.
The replacement relay came today, and before I swapped it out for the old one, I decided to play with the switch a bit to see if there was any indication of corrosion or malfunction. All the terminals seemed fine and the center terminals got 12.5 volts from the battery in both the use and store positions, so I figured the switch was fine. Removed the old relay and installed the new one. Battery disconnect switch works again, so it was definitely a bad relay. May want to try installing the new one to see if it solves your problem.
 
The replacement relay came today, and before I swapped it out for the old one, I decided to play with the switch a bit to see if there was any indication of corrosion or malfunction. All the terminals seemed fine and the center terminals got 12.5 volts from the battery in both the use and store positions, so I figured the switch was fine. Removed the old relay and installed the new one. Battery disconnect switch works again, so it was definitely a bad relay. May want to try installing the new one to see if it solves your problem.
Yeah I installed the new relay first, and it had not solved the problem, so we tested both relays etc. Im just gonna keep the old one as a backup and will replace the switch and see where we stand. Thank you for the advice. As I stated before, this group is amazingly helpful.
All together ill be out less than 50 dollars with the new relay and switch. Since this is my hobby im not factoring being out the time, especially since it is off season here!
 
Ok people... this is frustrating to say the least.
New solenoid installed and it kind of worked but didnt. Then replaced the dpdt switch thinking maybe that was the issue... didnt work w the new solenoid.. would get no sound when I pressed switch and no power etc... then put the old solenoid back in and it clicks everything I press the switch down... but it isnt staying open to allow charge or so forth when switch is depressed.... inhave video but it wont upload for some reason.
 
No video - you have to use YouTube.

You need to logically determine what the issue is. On your latching relay:
1743879559527.png


disconnect the two small yellow wires. Now do two tests:
1 - put a voltmeter on the yellow leads (+ and -).
Press the STORE switch - you should read either + or negative house battery voltage (about 12+ VDC).
Now press STORE - you should see the opposite voltage.


2 - Get a short wire jumper and a longer wire jumper.
Connect the long wire jumper to a known good ground.
Connect the short wire jumper to the COACH (house battery) side cable connection.
Touch the two jumpers to the two small terminals - you MAY hear a clunk as the latching relay shifts position.
Now touch the jumpers to the opposite of the two small terminals. You should hear a clunk as the latching terminal shifts again.
If you do this test disconnect from SP, you can measure the DC buss side cable for 12 VDC to ground to see if the latching relay is open or shut.
OPEN and SHUT in electrical terms is the opposite of plumbing terms. OPEN means the bridge is open and electricity can NOT cross the chasm. SHUT means the bridge is closed and allows electricity to cross the chasm.
 
Well the new solenoid did the trick...its working as its supposed to. I took the defective one apart and it smelled like burnt metal when I opened it up etc... definitely had a toasted coil. All set now new one working well. Just have to rinse the lines and sanitizer the tanks next week when the temps finally do not drop below freezing!!! Let the adventures begin.
 

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