UseStore Switch wiring diagram

Lt Keefer

Senior Member
Joined
May 28, 2018
Posts
3,328
Location
Cedar Creek
Does anyone have a wire diagram for the use/store switch? I was having a problem with my latching thing a ma bob and in the troubleshooting took out the switch to see if their was a fuse. There wasn't, but there are 6 wires to the switch and I'm curious as to their destinations. I couldn't find one in a search of the googles.
 
In most cases, it's a simple DPDT center off momentary switch wired to reverse polarity to the load.
To do this you need power + and - and load + and -.
The other two leads are just jumpered/crossed leads.

This is one way to do it:
dpdt_switch.png


This is another way:
29d728931bc82f9a414493e2e7c9c07dbea32986.jpeg
 
Thanks, next time, I have that switch complex out, I compare to the diagram. At least I'll have something to go on.
 
I have it sketched out for my coach. I can post it in the morning if you still need it.

By chance, did you have your switch out and either take a photo, make notes, or can describe what you observed?
 
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I have it sketched out. I can post it in the morning if you still need it. The diagrams Ace posted aren't going to help.

By chance, did you have your switch out and either take a photo, make notes, or can describe what you observed?
No, I didn't take any photos. What I observed was 6 wires of various colors plugged into the back of a switch. I was looking for a fuse on one of the switched wires. Didn't find one, so I reinstalled and moved on in my troubleshooting.
 
I do not have a diagram but In my case this switch had a metal toggle latch inside that is supposed to move freely. Mine was stuck on USE. I replaced it. In my research there were in line fuses like you see in the pic and there were also some fuse holders on the side of the switch (sort of built-in).

IMG_8770.jpg
 
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my latching thing a ma bob

Do you have a KIB LR9806T3 latching relay or one of the other possible relays that Thor has bought and used over the years? Jawzilla posted a photo of one of them (Intellec Battery Disconnect Relay). The other I know off hand is the RC Custom Products version that's in the black box that I know Ace has posted about in the past.

In any event what sort of difficulty are you having with your "latching thing a ma bob"?

If you have the KIB variant, your two 5A fuses for the switch and the indicator are mounted directly on the relay's body.
 
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Got to doing some thinking. You explicitly noted your switch has six wires. The original sketches I had made last fall of MY '18 29M indicated that there was only a SPST momentary switch needed to operate the KIB relay installed in MY rig. That only takes two wires plus another for the signal to the light (three total) which is what was observed at the 4-pin Molex connector under the bed that interfaces the chassis wire harness to the short harness attached to MY KIB relay. There is a 4th wire on the chassis side of the harness that is unused to the relay assembly. Went down to the garage this morning and pulled the MAIN POWER switch/light assembly. Yep, only two wires to the switch, two to the light (shares a common white negative with the switch) and hanging in there unused was a red wire.

I came to the conclusion that the chassis wiring harness diagram I received from Thor CS last summer has been superseded for MY coach and they sent me the earlier version.

Below are the diagrams I sketched out for each version. Note: I made my career READING schematics but I'm quite deficient in drawing them.

IMG_20250519_092537124.jpg



IMG_20250519_093842792.jpg
 
there was only a SPST momentary switch needed to operate the KIB relay installed in MY rig.
That because you have a single voltage pulsed latching relay, LR9806 which is not the same as most latching relays that require the polarity to be switched to change state.
 
That because you have a single voltage pulsed latching relay, LR9806 which is not the same as most latching relays that require the polarity to be switched to change state.

Yeah, I wanted to cover the KNOWN configurations that I've identified that the factory used. It's probably unhelpful and unproductive to assume that another rig, even of the same year and floorplan will be identical to yours. We just went through this with the residential fridge and inverter in another thread. That is why I included BOTH configurations. Pick the one that is applicable to the unit UNDER DISCUSSION.
 
Which was easily identified by the 6 wire connection.
Yes, the documentation for which, same as the other configuration, apparently did not exist in this owner's community before this morning. I was recounting my "voyage to discovery" since the OP's coach varied from what I'd learned about mine (same year and floor plan).

Now, both identified configurations are documented. File them away for the next time the subject comes up, they will come in handy.

You can say "Thank you" at this point instead of nitpicking and bitching (which is becoming wearisome) about my contribution...
 
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Yes, the documentation for which, same as the other configuration, apparently did not exist in this owner's community before this morning. I was recounting my "voyage to discovery" since the OP's coach varied from what I'd learned about mine (same year and floor plan).

Now, both identified configurations are documented. File them away for the next time the subject comes up, they will come in handy.

You can say "Thank you" at this point instead of nitpicking and bitching (which is becoming wearisome) about my contribution...
Your "contribution" did not apply to the OP's configuration, so all it did was confuse the issue.
We don't need to know what you have in your RV, we need to concentrate on what the OP has in their RV.
Your posts in this thread should be moved to another thread as they are not on the topic of this thread.
 
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Thanks for the drawing. My latching thingy looks like jaws. When I replaced my co/propane detector, I put the coach in store mode and pulled the fuse for the old detector. After changing the detector, the coach didn't want to go to use mode. I had 13.4 volts at the house battery, 13.2 volts at the coach battery. I had 13.4 volts at the one terminal of the latch and zero at the other. I pulled switch to look for a fuse. I plugged in the coach and the converter fired up and provided power to the lights and all but the latch wouldn't close. I fired up the chassis motor and the latch operated as normal. After shutting down the motor and unplugging from power, the latch operates as normal. I think the latch was stuck, solenoids do go bad. I'm gonna order a spare latch and just replace it if it acts up again.
 
I think you're on the right track
Your "contribution" did not apply to the OP's configuration, so all it did was confuse the issue.
We don't need to know what you have in your RV, we need to concentrate on what the OP has in their RV.
Your posts in this thread should be moved to another thread as they are not on the topic of this thread.
Well, bless your heart!
 
I think you're on the right track

Well, bless your heart!
It is always valuable to have a forum member that has the same year and model that I have. That way we can talk apples to apples, unless Thor was in the peach orchard on one of our build days. So your reply was very helpful.
 
Your "contribution" did not apply to the OP's configuration, so all it did was confuse the issue.
We don't need to know what you have in your RV, we need to concentrate on what the OP has in their RV.
Your posts in this thread should be moved to another thread as they are not on the topic of this thread.

The reply did not confuse me at all. Our models are the same and if built by a competent manufacturer should be identical.
 
The reply did not confuse me at all. Our models are the same and if built by a competent manufacturer should be identical.
But they aren't built the same.

but there are 6 wires to the switch

only two wires to the switch, two to the light (
Your latching relay and switch configuration are the standard two direction USE/STORE (ON/OFF) switch and reversing voltage latching relay.

PS89's is the less frequently seen single direction switch and single voltage pulsed latching relay.
 
But they aren't built the same.




Your latching relay and switch configuration are the standard two direction USE/STORE (ON/OFF) switch and reversing voltage latching relay.

PS89's is the less frequently seen single direction switch and single voltage pulsed latching relay.
That's the problem with Thor. They do not build anything to spec. Everything is jury rigged. We have the same model, same year, and they are different. Thor is a poster child for cheap junk built by unskilled day laborers.
 

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