Selmahotrod
Member
Are the engine programmers really worth the cost for 2011 V-10?
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V-10 Power
- Thread starter Selmahotrod
- Start date
Chateau_Nomad
Senior Member
No. At least not for a motorhome IMO. It's merely a perception of value to separate you from your cash.
Now if it's in a pickup truck you take to the dragstrip on weekends... ??
Now if it's in a pickup truck you take to the dragstrip on weekends... ??
Beau388
Senior Member
Depends what you are looking . Programmers really don't provide better fuel mileage, but can provide the feeling of more power by improving throttle response. In my case, I was looking for a different shift profile for the new 6 speed. Five Star was able to provide me with the shift profiles I wanted.
ghnl
Senior Member
Can you elaborate on this please. While better fuel economy would be nice a transmission that doesn't downshift 2 -3 gears at the mere mention of a possible incline would be a welcome improvement.
ducksface
It's 'towed', not toad.
They have a
Seat of the pants
Value.
They have no other value on the six speed.
But
They make a more perceiveable/actual difference on the five speed by remapping the trans.
Except for
A 'feeling'
They have no value
EXCEPT
I think they have a 6hp increase at about 5000(you'll never see it) .
I've done a boat load of research.
If there was a measurable value...
I'd own one.
I also do not own one of those other brand of gas pedal position ecm modifier.
They put 89%of throttle into the first 10% of pedal travel. It seems quicker to those who have limted/slow foot movement ability.
They do nothing else.
Seat of the pants
Value.
They have no other value on the six speed.
But
They make a more perceiveable/actual difference on the five speed by remapping the trans.
Except for
A 'feeling'
They have no value
EXCEPT
I think they have a 6hp increase at about 5000(you'll never see it) .
I've done a boat load of research.
If there was a measurable value...
I'd own one.
I also do not own one of those other brand of gas pedal position ecm modifier.
They put 89%of throttle into the first 10% of pedal travel. It seems quicker to those who have limted/slow foot movement ability.
They do nothing else.
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Beau388
Senior Member
My chassis has a Oct 2015 build date; six speeds which include the modified low rpm V-10 engine. The 6 speed was in production for 2 years behind Ford's diesel before it became available in the V-10 Triton engine. Ford offered a free re-flash in March 2016. It was obviously programmed for a Ford 250 with the V-10 engine. This program did not fit my 18,000 lb coach with a 4.30 rear gear and 33" tire.
I filled out the 5 Star order form and in the comments I stated I wanted an aggressive downshift program and wanted the computer to allow more RPM before up-shifting in Tow/haul mode. The first program was somewhat close to what I wanted but still not aggressive enough. The second program was too aggressive (the trans would not shift into 6th until the speed was 68 mph under no load.) The third program was perfect. In tow/haul, I can drive in the TX Hill Country at 55 mph plus or minus 8 mph and the trans stays in 5th (before it would go uphill in 4th and down hill in 6th).
As for the engine, 5 Star cured the slight delay in responding to the throttle inputs which were annoying in accelerations and deceleration. Of course, this was done to meet emission. Modified acceleration ramp to avoid enrichment or open loop operation. Sudden closure of the throttle can torque converter surge, as it goes from torque multiplication to retarding fluid coupling so the computer wont allow it. It is leftover from the diesel when where high compression engine can hurt the TC's bearings, especially the sprag clutch bearings.
All this caused a slight loss in fuel mileage, about 0.3 mpg, which I am willing to live with; but as coach that is a pleasure to drive. After all, that is what traveling in a motor-coach is all about.
ghnl
Senior Member
Our ACE is on a 2014 F53 chassis. I assume 5 speed transmission (P R N D 3 2 1). I wonder if 5 Star has a program for this model.
If I am driving I can climb most hills on our east coast Interstates without it downshifting or losing speed. If I use cruise control it downshifts 2 or 3 gears until the engine is screaming at 4,000+ rpm.
If I am driving I can climb most hills on our east coast Interstates without it downshifting or losing speed. If I use cruise control it downshifts 2 or 3 gears until the engine is screaming at 4,000+ rpm.
Yes they do and the shift changes are more noticeable on the 5 speed transmission (which you have).
Beau388
Senior Member
The V-10 is simply 5.2 L V-8 with two more cylinders. It is the largest of the "modular" series of engines manufactured in the Windsor, Ontario engine plant. It is a single overhead cam design, aluminum cylinder heads with 3 valves per cylinder in the F-53 chassis. It was the gas engine in all the ford 450, 500, 550 and 600 chassis uses for delivery truck, dump trucks and concrete trucks. This chassis was often used to carry aux water tank to the fire truck. The computer controlled max rpm for continuous operation is 5,250 rpm. The 5 speed version to the Triton produces 457 ftlb torque at 3,250 rpm and 362 hp @ 4,750 rpm, so the engine is made to rev. The speed limitation on the engine is because of the chain drive to the external balance shaft on the left cylinder head and not the rotating assembly. To meet US emission requirements for trucks in 2016 Ford redesigned the cylinderheads and camshafts to reduce the engines rpm. It was re-rated at 460 ftlbs of torque at 3,000 rpm and 320 hp at 3,900 rpm
Beau388
Senior Member
Just wishing!
ducksface
It's 'towed', not toad.
I would pay an ungodly amount of money for an industrial-duty supercharger setup on my 24.1
(IF I wasn't involved in any of it except writing a check.)
(IF I wasn't involved in any of it except writing a check.)
Beau388
Senior Member
Not quite the same but available, but only 613 HP at 6,200 rpm. The 6R140 trans will fit "Megazilla"
I have used K&N air filters on all of the RVs I have owned. They easily and inexpensively give you more horsepower and better gas mileage. On my 32 foot Winnebago bunkhouse model I was getting between 9 and 10 MPG. My Thor 24.1 I get between 12 and 13 MPG. Plenty of hill climbing power and easy highway cruising.
ducksface
It's 'towed', not toad.
I have K&N filters on two vehicles here. I've had them on maybe four other vehicles.
6 hp at 6000 rpm increase.
I have them so I can take them out and bang them on rocks when Moab dust clogs them to the point of choking the engine. I have them for no reason other than they are hardy.
You will never need a 2 hp gain at 3000 rpm. The noise they make sells 80% of them.
And please realize, without fail:
Life use is not laboratory use.
The optimum temperature and air pressure that their laboratory uses, will happen a few times for a few minutes in your entire lifetime.
The only way to get more air is bigger holes or a bigger area. You are constrained by the size of your filter housing.
My water filter housings as an example: a five-micron filter passes more particulate through it than a one-micron filter does and the one micron filter cost to me is lower psi at a faucet...but you all know that.
So do I want the particulate in my water or do I want cleaner water?
This week in my signature thread I showed pictures of the Kilmat I put on the cold air intake system of a K&N intake and filter.
www.thorforums.com
What I didn't show was the very fine dirt that lined the inside of those housings because K&N has less filtration than a modern filter, even if you precisely oil the K&N. Personally I don't care about microdust in the combustion system. You might care. Bigger holes, bigger dirt.
K&N has no practical use on an RV.
If it were as simple as replacing a filter, every ZL1, TRX, Raptor, and V-series would have k&n from the factory. So why don't they?
6 hp at 6000 rpm increase.
I have them so I can take them out and bang them on rocks when Moab dust clogs them to the point of choking the engine. I have them for no reason other than they are hardy.
You will never need a 2 hp gain at 3000 rpm. The noise they make sells 80% of them.
And please realize, without fail:
Life use is not laboratory use.
The optimum temperature and air pressure that their laboratory uses, will happen a few times for a few minutes in your entire lifetime.
The only way to get more air is bigger holes or a bigger area. You are constrained by the size of your filter housing.
My water filter housings as an example: a five-micron filter passes more particulate through it than a one-micron filter does and the one micron filter cost to me is lower psi at a faucet...but you all know that.
So do I want the particulate in my water or do I want cleaner water?
This week in my signature thread I showed pictures of the Kilmat I put on the cold air intake system of a K&N intake and filter.
I want to start a new thread about nothing, and let it run...
Based on your jeep knowledge I'm going to flat tow the zr2. Worst is something will get too hot 🔥 and I'll then just tap two holes and put an external pump with a small trans cooler and a NACA scoop. https://www.amazon.com/TEMSONE-Transmission-Mounting-Applications-Protection/dp/B0BHLR6SGS
www.thorforums.com
K&N has no practical use on an RV.
If it were as simple as replacing a filter, every ZL1, TRX, Raptor, and V-series would have k&n from the factory. So why don't they?
Last edited:
wrapped
Senior Member
Careful with the oil on K&N air filter the oil can mess with the mass air flow sensor.
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