Water Pump Question

[HighhillThorman]

Thanks for all of the ideas. I will begin a systematic check of all of my plumbing and post if I find the leak.
Tom

Thanks for all of the ideas. I will begin a systematic check of all of my plumbing and post if I find the leak.
Tom

Hope all went well Monday. Do you have a tankless system , not sure how they work but some have a valve in shower when you turn on hot water it cycles back to fresh water so you don’t waste water. If you have that check that hot water valve is closed and the valve to recirculate is closed

I'm not sure if I have a valve in the shower. There is a valve of some kind down near the toilet below the regular shower valve. I'll have to find a Tellaro schematic but for now I'll make sure that valve is closed.

 

[Chateau_Nomad]

Hope all went well Monday. Do you have a tankless system , not sure how they work but some have a valve in shower when you turn on hot water it cycles back to fresh water so you don’t waste water. If you have that check that hot water valve is closed and the valve to recirculate is closed

That's probably a ShowerMiser setup. I installed one... basically a diverter valve which routes the hot side from a faucet back to the freshwater tank. If it's like mine there's a small quarter turn lever. It's true it could be slightly rotated open, not allowing the full flow of hot water to the shower faucet.

I think newer versions use a button which is a positive ON/OFF with nothing in between??

Worth asking though...

 

[Jimbo57]

There is one more you could try, turn on cold ,hot faucet and shower for a heavy flow of water to push a small obstruction maybe stuck in pump so it’s bleeding pressure, otherwise you would see a puddle if there was a leaky pipe

 

[Mark54]

I tried turning the screw both ways today and it didn't seem to make a difference. Thanks for the suggestion.

Pump has to be on to hear the difference- water running too- not likely to be the issue. Find the leak- it's there somewhere. The one in my Rialta was a tiny leak- doesn't take much to make the pump cycle. For now just turn pump off at night.
I added a SeeLevel system to my 20L (b/c BMPro is very unreliable for tank levels)- also has a pump switch, but needs to be changed to a momentary type for masternode relay, and I piggy backed wires off the rear pump switch under the rear wardrobe drawers. (send me a 'conversation' if you want more info on that) I placed on wall by bath so I can turn pump on/off at night w/o using app or BMPro. Much faster and more convenient.

Also could just be air in the line- so purge all outlets incl rear spray. Hot and cold.
If you look at the pump strainer, you can sometimes see air bubbles inside too if that is the issue.
Does the 2023 20L have a shower miser in the rear bath? (doesn't show on spec sheet- my 20L doesn't have that, but could be another place for air pockets)

 

[Lucky Lady]

I own a 2023 Thor Tellaro 20L. After my water pump pressurizes the system the pump keeps turning on for about a second at a time. I'm assuming that I must have a small air leak in the system that may be corrected by tightening all of the fittings that I can. Does this sound reasonable or am I'm I missing something? The only time that this is a real problem is at night when we are trying to sleep so I just turn the power off then.

I agree with Ace. Mine would periodically run for a brief moment. Sure enough I had a leak. Easy fix, $50 off Amazon. Look where your pump is...

 

[ducksface]

Your pump has a torn internal diaphragm.
Buy a diaphragm or an entire pump.
Price isn't much of a difference for an entirely new pump.

It's passing pressure internally.

 

[Chateau_Nomad]

Your pump has a torn internal diaphragm.
Buy a diaphragm or an entire pump.
Price isn't much of a difference for an entirely new pump.

It's passing pressure internally.

I agree... but just buy the entire pump. They're about $70. Then keep the old one as emergency backup.

 

[DParsons]

I own a 2023 Thor Tellaro 20L. After my water pump pressurizes the system the pump keeps turning on for about a second at a time. I'm assuming that I must have a small air leak in the system that may be corrected by tightening all of the fittings that I can. Does this sound reasonable or am I'm I missing something? The only time that this is a real problem is at night when we are trying to sleep so I just turn the power off then.

Are you on city water line or taking from your tank. Your tank might be allowing air in if it’s not full enough to fully submerge the intake line.

 

[16ACE27]

Are you on city water line or taking from your tank. Your tank might be allowing air in if it’s not full enough to fully submerge the intake line.

You know:
The pump always uses the FW tank as it's water source, and
You don't use the water pump when connected to city water.

 

[rudyhehn]

I had a similar experience. I finally tracked it down to the 3 way selector valve that goes between normal, tank fill and city water. I was "leaking" internally. I replaced the valve and it solved the leak.

 

[Bigskygrl]

I own a 2023 Thor Tellaro 20L. After my water pump pressurizes the system the pump keeps turning on for about a second at a time. I'm assuming that I must have a small air leak in the system that may be corrected by tightening all of the fittings that I can. Does this sound reasonable or am I'm I missing something? The only time that this is a real problem is at night when we are trying to sleep so I just turn the power off then.

Just wanted to share our experience. We own a 2023 Thor Tranquility. We usually turned off our water pump when not in use, but in the first few months of having it, we would notice that while on, the pump would "burp" (it is a very short sound) every 15-30 seconds , to sometimes a minute or so. Since we almost always turned off the pump when not in use, we didn't think anything of it. (we were new rv owners too) Eventually, and unfortunately while on a trip, we discovered we had a water leak in the cassette toilet compartment. One of the connections in the flush water line was dripping. Water filled up in the pan that the cassette sits in and spilled out from underneath the shower onto the floor and out the back, as we were on a slight incline. We have learned our lesson! We always listen for the "burp" when we are readying the van for a trip. So, a leak is most likely your problem.

 

[Wiley1]

As others have said, there should be no air in the pressurized portion of the water system. So, you definitely have a water leak somewhere and it could be anywhere from the pump forward. For the symptoms that you describe, it will be a very tiny (pinhole) leak, just a drop or two per minute.

Places to look:

1. low point valves
2. under the kitchen sink
3. under the bathroom sink
4. toilet
5. shower head and mixer valve
6. water heater, inside and drainplug outside
7. water pump connection on the pressure side
8. City Water connector, inside and outside
9. bypass valve connections
10. inside a wall

Things to try:

1. When checking connections, use a paper towel to detect wet surfaces.
2. Look for signs of water damages on floors, walls, ceilings, under the bed, and under the frame.
3. Sniff for mold. If it has been leaking for a while, mold is likely. Remember, this leak will occur even when on City Water.
4. Put the water heater into bypass mode and retest. If that works, the issue is with the water heater or the supply to the water heater.
5. Close the hot water output valve, but leave the cold open, and retest. If that works, the problem is on the hot side of the system and you can remove the toilet from suspicion.
6. Install a new valve on the cold water pipe AFTER the bypass valves, so the hot pipes are pressurized, but the cold pipes are not, then retest. If that works, you know your leak is on the cold side.

If all else fails, the check-valve inside the water pump may be malfunctioning, allowing a small backflow. You could disassembe the pump and clean it, or you could just get a new pump. This is the one in my 23H:

Amazon.com

 

[HighhillThorman]

You know: The pump always uses the FW tank as it's water source, and You don't use the water pump when connected to city water.

Also check that your toilet ball valve is completely closing after flushing. It could stick and let a little trickle of water flow into the toilet... you'll usually be able to see the water flowing.

I normally use water from my FW tank. I prefer to drink my own home water when I can. Toilet valve is closing okay.

 

[HighhillThorman]

As others have said, there should be no air in the pressurized portion of the water system. So, you definitely have a water leak somewhere and it could be anywhere from the pump forward. For the symptoms that you describe, it will be a very tiny (pinhole) leak, just a drop or two per minute.

Places to look:

1. low point valves
2. under the kitchen sink
3. under the bathroom sink
4. toilet
5. shower head and mixer valve
6. water heater, inside and drainplug outside
7. water pump connection on the pressure side
8. City Water connector, inside and outside
9. bypass valve connections
10. inside a wall

Things to try:

1. When checking connections, use a paper towel to detect wet surfaces.
2. Look for signs of water damages on floors, walls, ceilings, under the bed, and under the frame.
3. Sniff for mold. If it has been leaking for a while, mold is likely. Remember, this leak will occur even when on City Water.
4. Put the water heater into bypass mode and retest. If that works, the issue is with the water heater or the supply to the water heater.
5. Close the hot water output valve, but leave the cold open, and retest. If that works, the problem is on the hot side of the system and you can remove the toilet from suspicion.
6. Install a new valve on the cold water pipe AFTER the bypass valves, so the hot pipes are pressurized, but the cold pipes are not, then retest. If that works, you know your leak is on the cold side.

If all else fails, the check-valve inside the water pump may be malfunctioning, allowing a small backflow. You could disassembe the pump and clean it, or you could just get a new pump. This is the one in my 23H:

Amazon.com

Thanks for all of the ideas. I'll start working through the list. For now I just turn off the pump when not in use but I realize I'm just masking the problem doing this.

 

[HighhillThorman]

I had a similar experience. I finally tracked it down to the 3 way selector valve that goes between normal, tank fill and city water. I was "leaking" internally. I replaced the valve and it solved the leak.

Thanks. I'll give it a try.

 

[HighhillThorman]

Thanks. I'll give it a try.

Where did you get that valve?

 

[HighhillThorman]

Where did you get that valve?

I have an appointment with a General RV dealer on Friday. This dealer was very effective repairing the radiator leaking because of the added alternator in the Tellaro. I have a wiring problem in addition to the pump problem so I thought I would get it into the dealer while it's still under warranty. I'll report back on the results. Thanks all for the suggestions. I appreciate it and learned a lot.

 

[DParsons]

You know:
The pump always uses the FW tank as it's water source, and
You don't use the water pump when connected to city water.

His post didn't' mention he was connected to city water. I've had this issue when I'm running the water pump while boondocking. If your water tank isn't full enough can cause your water pump to continously try and pressurize the lines.

 

[HighhillThorman]

His post didn't' mention he was connected to city water. I've had this issue when I'm running the water pump while boondocking. If your water tank isn't full enough can cause your water pump to continously try and pressurize the lines.

I am drawing water from my water tank and it acts like this even with a full tank. I tried running all of the faucets, both hot and cold, to bleed out the air but it didn't seem to help much. I'm going to have to check all of the plumbing for a small leak. I have checked all of the visible lines with no success so now I'm going to have to start on the hidden ones. I've checked all of the pipes in the pump compartment and they are okay. I had some trouble getting out the drawers under the microwave so I am going to have to figure that out. Once again, thanks for all the help.

 

[DParsons]

I am drawing water from my water tank and it acts like this even with a full tank. I tried running all of the faucets, both hot and cold, to bleed out the air but it didn't seem to help much. I'm going to have to check all of the plumbing for a small leak. I have checked all of the visible lines with no success so now I'm going to have to start on the hidden ones. I've checked all of the pipes in the pump compartment and they are okay. I had some trouble getting out the drawers under the microwave so I am going to have to figure that out. Once again, thanks for all the help.

Then it needs to be closer to the pump if not the pump itself. It's not holding prime. Wish they made things to be fixed but they don't. Would be really really helpful though. There are ways to check the system but you'll need to pressurize the system with air, just try to not use more than 30psi. Similar to checking valves and pistons on an engine. I'd check the seals around the water pump and then the system, but if you are losing air, you are also loosing water to some degree so good luck. Hope it's a simple fix, once you probably spend a lot of time looking for it.

I use this with a compressor to blow out the water lines for winterization.

https://www.amazon.com/Winterize-Motorhome-Camper-Travel-Trailer/dp/B017CM0134?th=1