We are stranded. Engine won’t start

Final final update 😂. The battery indicator I was looking at was actually the house battery, not the battery that turns the engine on. I will definitely know in the future!
You should buy a voltmeter that plugs into one of the "cigar lighter" sockets on your dash. Get one that still provides an outlet but also shows the voltage (on Amazon). That way you will 1) know the voltage of your chassis battery (should be around 12.5), 2)know if your alternator is charging the chassis battery (shows about 14 volts when it is) and 3) know if your generator/shore power is charging the chassis battery when the engine is off (you know this because the voltage on the meter will show around 13 volts).

On the jacks: The jack pump runs off of the house batteries. But, the control panel runs off of the chassis battery. If the control panel is dead to the world, it tells you that the chassis battery is dead to the world. If it says "low voltage" it means the house batteries are too depleted to run the jacks. (When mine says "Low voltage" it means the 100 amp breaker in the battery area tripped.)
 
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Regarding 30A vs 50A: If you have, from the factory, a 5500 watt generator and two rooftop air conditioners, you have a 50A coach. This was an option when the coach was originally ordered from the factory. If you have a 4000 watt generator and only one factory installed air conditioner, you have a 30A coach.

Regarding mouse ingress, I've found the following points to be problematic:

1. Under the dash, behind the gas pedal was a HUGE opening. Found that one when I was installing sound deadening and carpet in the cabin area.

2. Under the switch panel to the right of the entry door. You have to hit that one from the bottom.

3. Under the dinette seat by the water pump where water and electric cables come through the floor.

4. Under the foot of the bed, under the removable wood cover where numerous electrical cables come through the floor.

5. under the sink is a canvas "bag" that is supposed to protect the flexible plumbing, gas, and electrical lines. Haven't figured that one out yet.
 
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You should buy a voltmeter that plugs into one of the "cigar lighter" sockets on your dash. Get one that still provides an outlet but also shows the voltage (on Amazon). That way you will 1) know the voltage of your chassis battery (should be around 12.5), 2)know if your alternator is charging the chassis battery (shows about 14 volts when it is) and 3) know if your generator/shore power is charging the chassis battery when the engine is off (you know this because the voltage on the meter will show around 13 volts).

On the jacks: The jack pump runs off of the house batteries. But, the control panel runs off of the chassis battery. If the control panel is dead to the world, it tells you that the chassis battery is dead to the world. If it says "low voltage" it means the house batteries are too depleted to run the jacks. (When mine says "Low voltage" it means the 100 amp breaker in the battery area tripped.)
Thanks for the great information and suggestions! They are much appreciated!
 
Get a voltage tester and check chassis readout before plugging into 30A, then test after plugging in- should see a difference. Carry that tester with you too. I use a "VOM" that can read ohms, volts and amps. (Volt-Ohm-Millammeter) A GPS could drain just enough to get too low on SOC (state of charge) esp. if overnight...
Thank you! I confess I have no idea what Ohms or Millmmeters are but I’ll pass this along to my hubby! 😊
 
Good morning from a newbie! (I’m managing expectations right off the bat). We have a 2018 Thor Windsport. We are on our 2nd trip and it’s been …a bit rough.

We got to the site and noticed our floor was wet. We found that 2 Damp Rid containers burst and the collected fluid spilled and drained through the closet and onto the floor of the bedroom and bath. Per Damp Rid, the only way to clean it up is by using lots of water to overwhelm the calcium chloride that attracts water. Otherwise it will continue to pull moisture from the air and the spill will expand.

We did this, and carefully dried everything. However, our inverter started to alarm the next day. We hadn’t realized fluid had gotten into the inverter compartment (didn’t actually know the inverter was under a drawer in the closet), and the inverter was standing in the fluid. We pulled the inverter out of the compartment and cleaned up the fluid. The inverter won’t start, so suspect it’s toast. We plugged the refrigerator in with an extension cord (I think this is all it powered…).

But now, the chassis engine won’t start. The chassis battery is full, according to the panel. But when I turn the key there is no sound at all. The sunshade won’t retract. The auto leveling system won’t turn on.

A couple things I noticed: I had left the “cab light” switch on, but did not turn on the cab lights (now off). We also had a gps system plugged into a port on the console( now unplugged). Lastly, while I was driving I heard a clicking sound, sort of like a turn signal sound, but no signal was on.

So…. Could the inverter damage be related to the engine not starting? The converter is under the bed and we have not checked that. If the converter is damaged, could that prevent the engine from starting? Would using the emergency start function do anything if the battery is showing full?

I’m sorry for the long post, but I’m hoping someone can help. It was my idea to get an RV, and hubby is thus far less than impressed! 😳
Hopefully one of the other posts suggested this, but please add a trickle charger (with boost) and extension cord to your kit. Your inverter charges the house batteries along with providing DC and filtered AC power to things that need DC and things that need "clean" AC power like your TV or computer.

We've killed our batteries a couple of times and having the charger allowed us to directly connect to the house batteries and power the slides with the "boost". Also, your furnace won't work if your batteries are too low.

Safe travels!
 
Hopefully one of the other posts suggested this, but please add a trickle charger (with boost) and extension cord to your kit. Your inverter charges the house batteries along with providing DC and filtered AC power to things that need DC and things that need "clean" AC power like your TV or computer.

We've killed our batteries a couple of times and having the charger allowed us to directly connect to the house batteries and power the slides with the "boost". Also, your furnace won't work if your batteries are too low.

Safe travels!
Thank you!!!
 

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