Westlake LT tires superior to Goodyear G?

I got my RW two years ago. Had three blow outs with the E rated tires that came with it. Each time about 3-4K in damage. Each time Goodyear paid my $1000 deductible and new tires. After the third incident I did research and decided on changing to Goodyear G-rate and appropriate steel rims. Two short trips of 300 miles so far and no problem, but then again, had no problems on the original tires until over 1000 miles put on them. No optional generator or other heavy extra equipment so except for some food, charcoal and clothes, not a lot of extra weight. Did push my speed out here in west Texas to 80 but since the third blow=out have limited it to 75 and watch the world pass me by.
 
The g614's are rated to no more than 75 ....

but understand the wide open spaces when cars are flying by you :) :) :)
 
I got my RW two years ago. Had three blow outs with the E rated tires that came with it. Each time about 3-4K in damage. Each time Goodyear paid my $1000 deductible and new tires. After the third incident I did research and decided on changing to Goodyear G-rate and appropriate steel rims. Two short trips of 300 miles so far and no problem, but then again, had no problems on the original tires until over 1000 miles put on them. No optional generator or other heavy extra equipment so except for some food, charcoal and clothes, not a lot of extra weight. Did push my speed out here in west Texas to 80 but since the third blow=out have limited it to 75 and watch the world pass me by.
Did you ever think maybe the speed had something to do with the blowouts? Those tires are rated for a maximum speed of 65mph.:unsure:
 
I recall when I first bought my 2008 5th wheel Montana, the salesman I was dealing with, who was an advid RVer, told me not to go over 65mph. I asked why and he told me that they were "ST" type tires. I listened to him, but never did any research as to what he told me.
 
I got my RW two years ago. Had three blow outs with the E rated tires that came with it. Each time about 3-4K in damage. Each time Goodyear paid my $1000 deductible and new tires. After the third incident I did research and decided on changing to Goodyear G-rate and appropriate steel rims. Two short trips of 300 miles so far and no problem, but then again, had no problems on the original tires until over 1000 miles put on them. No optional generator or other heavy extra equipment so except for some food, charcoal and clothes, not a lot of extra weight. Did push my speed out here in west Texas to 80 but since the third blow=out have limited it to 75 and watch the world pass me by.

I rarely drive 65 and usually stay between 70-80 mph. On a few occasions I've gone well into the 90's and I put more miles on my trailer than most without any tire issues.

If you're having problems with tires I have 5 things for you to consider:

#1 be careful not to hit curbs or scrape the sidewalls

#2 check the suspension of the trailer. If the tires aren't running true, they'll heat up and sometimes blow before the unusual wear shows.

#3 watch the tire pressure and check them when they're cold.

#4 I stop every 3 hours or so to visually check the tires and run my hands over them (looking for tread separations, slipped belts and bubbles).

#5 while looking at the tires, also look closely at the suspension
 
Dave,
What are you looking for when you are checking the suspension?
-Jack

Loose bolts, cracked hangers and springs. A cracked spring is easiest to see when they're wet. A crack in a spring will look like a very thin line like someone drew it with a fine tip pencil. Also watch around your lug nuts for what looks like very fine dirty spider webs. These are cracks in your wheels caused by lug nuts not all being torqued the same.
 
They also blow due to slipped belts caused by hitting pot holes. Unfortunately the slipped belts can't be detected by the pressure systems
 
Don't know if covering the tires when you aren't going anywhere for awhile helps, but I've done it for a number of years. I've heard it helps.
 
IMHO going that fast is not good for the person going that fast but puts others at risk also. It is also against the law in most states, but mostly just unsafe for all. Just seeing the big trucks and their safety issues also applies to us only on a smaller scale.
 
I rarely drive 65 and usually stay between 70-80 mph. On a few occasions I've gone well into the 90's and I put more miles on my trailer than most without any tire issues.

If you're having problems with tires I have 5 things for you to consider:

#1 be careful not to hit curbs or scrape the sidewalls

#2 check the suspension of the trailer. If the tires aren't running true, they'll heat up and sometimes blow before the unusual wear shows.

#3 watch the tire pressure and check them when they're cold.

#4 I stop every 3 hours or so to visually check the tires and run my hands over them (looking for tread separations, slipped belts and bubbles).

#5 while looking at the tires, also look closely at the suspension

Wow it's unsafe to tow a rw with a srw 60-65 mph, but safe to tow one 80 and 90 with a drw.
 
IMHO going that fast is not good for the person going that fast but puts others at risk also. It is also against the law in most states, but mostly just unsafe for all. Just seeing the big trucks and their safety issues also applies to us only on a smaller scale.

In many states the speed limit is 70-75 mph. There are all kinds of theories about speed and safety. All the years I've driven (and taught) big trucks and the years since, I'd say there are 2 dangerous type of drivers.

#1 The driver not keeping up with traffic. More accidents are caused by "the traffic block" and everybody trying to get around them.

#2 the guy that has to out run everybody else.

If the traffic slow down....you slow down. But if the traffic is flowing fast, either go with the flow or find the next exit. This includes stay out of the way of the big truck behind you.
 
In many states the speed limit is 70-75 mph. There are all kinds of theories about speed and safety. All the years I've driven (and taught) big trucks and the years since, I'd say there are 2 dangerous type of drivers.

#1 The driver not keeping up with traffic. More accidents are caused by "the traffic block" and everybody trying to get around them.

#2 the guy that has to out run everybody else.

If the traffic slow down....you slow down. But if the traffic is flowing fast, either go with the flow or find the next exit. This includes stay out of the way of the big truck behind you.

The minimum is 45mph so 60-65 will work for me.
 
Just to clarify -

an ST tire speed limit is 65 mph, which is the Goodyear Marathon that were standard on Redwood up until last year.

The G614 speed limit is 75 mph, which was optional on Redwood up until last year.

I have no idea what the speed limit is on a Westlake, but in my opinion, both Westlake and the Goodyear Marathon are like the factory no-name batteries - just the minimum to meet the requirements and to get the rig to the dealer from the factory and sold out the door.

I feel bad for all those folks that spend so much time worrying about underinflation, overloading, or excessive speed on ST tires, when in reality there is nothing they can do to prevent the blow - its going to happen when it wants to. Your trailer tires should not need any more attention than your tow vehicle tires, and should have similar tolerance to a little neglect such as those on your tow vehicle. When towing, my truck tires are carrying just as much weight as the trailer axles, yet you just don't hear of truck tires blowing out like you do ST trailer tires. I don't buy all that side scrub abuse either, it's just cheaply made tires, unworthy of true highway use.
 
In many states the speed limit is 70-75 mph. There are all kinds of theories about speed and safety. All the years I've driven (and taught) big trucks and the years since, I'd say there are 2 dangerous type of drivers.

#1 The driver not keeping up with traffic. More accidents are caused by "the traffic block" and everybody trying to get around them.

#2 the guy that has to out run everybody else.

If the traffic slow down....you slow down. But if the traffic is flowing fast, either go with the flow or find the next exit. This includes stay out of the way of the big truck behind you.

Better driving advice is rarely given. To those who drive slow, consider what your doing to all the other drivers who are trying to get around you...
 
As we see here there are many opinions on how to keep a tire from blowing a cap....
Truith is ...you're not
In many years of running all types of tires in many different situations, l have learned that the care of a tire is just, if not more important than the selection.
The goodyear g 614 is a good tire. Have a set on three different trailers. Zero failures in ten years of use.


HEAT KILLS!!!!!!!
Inflate to the indicated air pressure, make sure tires are cold and shaded, there can be a ten pound difference from shade to sun. Also a tire can lose 2 to 3 pounds with every 10 degree drop in temp....this goes for you nitrogen huffers too.

Road conditions.......can't help you there

Driving habits.....common sense, speed will create more heat

Twisting, save it for dancing....your tires are not impressed that you can jacknife blindside and get this 42 foot sucker in with one shot. Also hard on wheels and bearings.

Weight ratings.?..look closer on the ply of the tire. A stiffer sidewall will run cooler, also check the actual ply not the ply rating

balance and alignment, just as important as the truck
 
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What potholes ?!?

Have never seen one in all my years of driving...

(Kidding for those that have ANY doubt :) )

AA, the 6614's were optional?!?
Guess I HAPPENED to be in the small window when it was standard as that's what came on our 38gk and nothing special ordered/listed....

REALLY like them too - every time we stop I run my hand over them to see if heating up - Gotta remember to bring the infrared thermometer - will keep my hands cleaner !
 
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