after much experience with RV electrical, I'll add my learned info:
- VOLTS is the power that the Utility sends to the campground, and to the power pedestal where you plug in your RV. It is the same for everyone... and is based on the 120 volt standard power system that you find everywhere.
- AMPS are a byproduct of what you USE while you are in your RV.. and has nothing to do with 120 volts of power. Your individual circuit breakers in your RV are designed to LIMIT your use of power in order not to overheat the wires, such as your 15amp circuit breaker for your outlets, or your 20amp circuit for your roof air conditioner. Your 30amp Main Breaker is your protection for ALL of the power you use ALL at the same time, from your individual breakers.
- if you have a 30amp RV, it is designed with 3 wires - a HOT wire, a NEUTRAL wire, and a GROUND wire. You will have access to 120 volts of power, with a maximum usage of 30amps total from your RV before your camprground's power pedestal's Main Breaker trips. OR your RV's own Main Breaker trips - both provide the same protection.
- if you have a 50amp RV, though, it is a different wire scheme, as it actually accesses 240 volts from the campground. This is not different from your Home, but it IS different from your neighbors in the campground who have a 30amp RV.
This type of service uses FOUR wires - a HOT Leg(black), another HOT leg(red), a NEUTRAL, and a GROUND.
Another difference is the campground pedestal's Main Breaker for this 50amp service - it uses a 'double-pole' breaker set(two individual 50amp breaker tied together with a common handle). This is easily differentiated from the more typical 30amp 'single' breaker.
- the main differences between 30amp RV service and 50amp RV service is the amount of AMPERAGE that the larger service can allow to be used by the RV.
30amps at 120volts is 30amps of usable 120v power.
50amps at 240volts, though, is 100amps of usable 120v power.
Now, electricians will say that this is not technically 'correct' to say that 50amp RV service is actually 100amps of 120v power, but since most every typical 50amp RV only has 120v single breakers within it's Main Panel, the end outcome is that the RV owner has access to using up to 100amps of power.
While a select and very few larger RVs might have a double-pole breaker within their Main Panel to power a 240v clothes dryer, it's not common.
The electrical industry has always assigned 'Amperage' as a language that only pertains to the number on the end of each Breaker, whether that breaker is a single pole 120v or a double-pole 240v type, which creates confusion for the RVing public, since few of us have had 'electrical education', at least in this 'mobile' environment where we have to be aware of 'what' type of outlet we are plugging into.
- yes, the typical 50amp RV does not make use of onboard 240v power, even though that is exactly what is being supplied by the shore power cord, and the campground's power outlet. The RV's main panel accepts these two HOT Legs, but only uses them separately, which is the same as two separate 50amp Main Panels, which is 100amps of usable power.
Rather than looking at 120v power and 240v power as being 'different', look at 240v power as being a simple way to combine the ability to use more power without having to have two separate outlets, and two separate RV main panels.
- sometimes, using an ADAPTER is a simple way to adjust to a different power service versus what your Shore Cord is originally designed for. It adjusts to the differing outlet, and it also makes use of the correct power for your situation.
A 30amp RV using an adapter to plug into a 50amp RV outlet is simply adjusting to making use of only one HOT Leg. The RV's Main 30amp Breaker will provide the protection from overuse, if any.
A 50amp RV using an adapter to plug into a 30amp RV outlet is simply adjusting to sharing the single HOT Leg between BOTH of the RV's HOT Legs, giving it's Main Panel voltage between all the individual breakers. In this situation, it's likely that the campground's own 30amp Main Breaker will trip, if overuse occurs.
The same applies to either type of RV making use of a more normal 'household' outlet. It is simply adjusting to the differing outlet, and has less 'amps' to make use of, though the power(volts) is still the same.
- Now, what is the 'extreme' electrical FEAR that most new RV owners have?
It's probably that they will somehow plug into an outlet that will 'blow up' their RV.
While it's very, very rare, and highly unlikely that an RV will be subject to any issues from any campground, rv park, or home's electrical outlet, the only probable electrical issue would arise from an incorrectly wired 30amp outlet. One that was accidentally wired as a 240v 3-wire type, versus the correct 120v 3-wire type. The 30amp RV could then see their electronics and appliances have real issues, but it's still very doubtful that any 'blowing up' would happen.
While we worry about these electrical differences, and some of us get a little more technical about it than most others care about, it is good to know some basics, especially as it concerns your own type of RV, and what 'electrical' type it is.
Some will differ about which one is 'best', but the actual power that most all of us make use of in a campground or rv park is basically the same - some just have more that they can make use of than others.
Can a park have issues with voltage? sure.
It's more the Utility company that provides the power, though, than anything to do with the park itself.
Sure, some parks are 'old', but that in itself is not a problem. If wires go from the utility to the park's main panel and to your RV's power pedestal, you'll have power, no matter the 'age' of the park.
At peak times, especially summer hot months, it may seem that the park is 'losing' power, or the voltage is not high enough, causing appliances and air conditioners, especially those with compressors, to have issues starting, or running, and can then require more amperage, thereby tripping breakers seemingly too quickly. It CAN happen, but it's really not the regular problem that some portray. I'll never say that it can't be a problem at certain places at certain times and when the park is really 'full', and at capacity, but it's really unlikely, though some will purchase additional 'protection' against these rare occurrences. It's not something most of us will ever have to worry about.
Can a park have an incorrectly wired outlet. I suppose. I've seen it - at least I've experienced a campground in Alaska that had a '3 prong dryer outlet' instead of the correct 3 prong 30amp RV outlet, but I doubt the wiring was actually incorrect. I think the 'brother-in-law' electrician didn't realize that the outlet was different for RVs than for 240v dryers, since the hardware store probably only had the dryer outlets on hand. At that time, I simply used my special 'dual 120v' adapter to provide two connections from two 120v 20amp 'household' outlets, instead.
Could a place have an incorrectly wired 50amp outlet?
Sure, but that one is much less probable since it would be more noticeable by the RV owner that the campground breaker is only a 'single' 50amp breaker, instead of the double-pole type, and the loss of one of the HOT Legs would mean that only 'half' of the RV would have 120v power, if the outlet was even correct in the first place.
enjoy ! : )
220 went the way of the pay phone years ago. In the modern world is called 120/240. If you don't believe me, put a volt meter accross the 2 hot legs and come back and tell me what you found!
