Why Use SeeLevel Tank Monitoring System, and Installation for Dummies.

[k_enn]

This will be a multi-part thread on why I chose to use the SeeLevel tank monitoring and a step by step explanation of how to install.

Why I went with the SeeLevel system.

I have a 2023 Thor Miramar class A whose holding tank gauges were totally out of whack. I wanted to be able to monitor their status instead of guessing how much room was left in them and if they were about to overflow.

I chose to go with a SeeLevel tank monitoring system for several reasons. First, the OEM sensors on the tanks were not reading accurately (particularly the galley grey tank, but also the black tanks). I tried all the usual sensor cleaning methods – Dawn detergent, baking soda and vinegar, and a variety of tank cleaner treatments – but none of them worked. I saw three options: (1) new internal sensors, (2) SeeLevel external sensors, (3) external sonar sensor.

I rejected the internal sensor option. While it would be compatible with my multiplex display, the existing sensors were sealed in the tank and could not be removed for cleaning. Although I could install new Horst sensors, that would require drilling multiple holes in each of my tanks (2 grey, 2 black). I was not keen on that idea. Even I put them in, there was no assurance that they would not get “crudded” over.

While external sonar sensors were a non-invasive option, I had two problems with that. First, there was very little space below the tanks to mount them, and it would be tricky changing the batteries every year. Second, I put in an inquiry to manufacturer, and got no response.

SeeLevel had several advantages. In addition to not requiring any modification (holes) in the tank, it had the capacity to monitor 2 grey and 2 black tanks (and even more tanks). The initial drawback was that I was not keen on cutting a hole in the coach interior for mounting their panel. They do have a SeeLevel Soul module (708 RVC H) that is RVC compatible, but I was advised by the SeeLevel manufacturer to check with the manufacturer of my multpilex panel (Firefly – Vegatouch Eclipse) and I am glad I did because those two products are not compatible for my RV’s programming. It looked like I was going to have cut a hole for a panel installation. But then I came across their SeeLevel 709-BTP7 system which uses Bluetooth, so I could mount the panel anywhere and get the readings on my cell phone.

 

[k_enn]

Plan your installation before you start.

The installation you do may vary from what I did because of the particulars of your RV. It is somewhat straight forward, but you need to plan it out in advance. You will need to purchase 18 gauge wire to connect the sensors to the panel. It requires two wires, one to carry the sensor signal and the other as a common ground. All holding tank sensors can be wired in series on the two wires. However, much of 18 gauge wire I found at the big box hardware stores was two wires joined into a single strand (much like a typical lamp cord). Since you will need to tap into each of the two wires separately and at multiple locations, this could be a tricky job if you use that type of wire. Instead, I got a length of dual 18 gauge wires (two different colors so I know which line is which), sometimes referred to a doorbell wire.

In addition, if your tanks are behind a panel in your wet bay, you may need to take the panel off to get access to the tanks. My front tanks were behind a panel, and removing it was a big part of the project as I had to deal with the various fittings attached to the panel (city/tank valve, heater valve, water intake fitting, tank flush fitting, and water filter) and a whole bunch of mounting screws.

 

[k_enn]

Planning the routing of the wiring.

You will need to plan how to route the wire from the SeeLevel panel to each of the sensors. In my case, the best access to the tanks was on the driver’s side, so that is where I wanted to place the sensors as well as the panel. My plan was to route everything through the cargo bays. However, two tanks were forward of the wheel well, and two were aft. On the driver’s side, there was nothing in the wheel well to which I could route and anchor the wires to connect to the aft tanks. However, I could easily do that on the passenger side. So, I ran the sensor wires across the width of the RV through the wet bay (using a long telescoping pole to push the wires across the RV), then along the passenger side back to the rear-most bay, and then through that bay across to the driver side. When going from bay to bay along the passenger side, I found it possible to route the wires through existing openings and not have to drill any holes. In routing it through the wheel well, I was able to wire tie it on to exiting wiring passing through there. If desired, you can use wire conduit covers ( Gardner Bender 1 in. x 5 ft. Split Flex Tubing FLX-1007GRT - The Home Depot ) for further protection of the wires.

In addition, the system needs a 12 volt power supply to the panel. I could not find an existing 12 volt line I could tap into in the area where the panel would go, so I ran a single positive wire from the house battery to where the panel would go. I did not need to run a second ground wire from the battery as one of the previous lines would be used as a common ground for everything.

 

[k_enn]

Make the Sensor Wiring Connections to the Panel.

Now it was time to start making connections. I took off the rear marker light to get to its wiring and I connected what would be the ground for the SeeLevel system to the ground wire for the marker light. Before closing up, I put a multi-meter between the line from the battery to the common ground line to test the continuity and make sure the circuit was good. I then reassembled the marker light.

To make most connections, I used snap on splice connectors. See, CURT Snap Lock Tap Connectors (18-14 Wire Gauge, 100-Pack) 58280 - The Home Depot However, for the power connection to the panel, I put in an inline blade fuse (7.5 amp) to protect the panel, using traditional wire to wire connections. Then, from the protected side of the hot line, you connect to the red wire on the pig tail that you will later plug into the panel. At this point, I also connected the common ground wire (black) from the pig tail to the common ground that I was using the sensors. Then, I connect the second of the two wires going to the sensors to the blue wire on the pigtail. At this point, I plugged in the pig tail to the panel, and checked to see that it was reading the voltage right (it was) before proceeding further.

 

[k_enn]

Configure the Sensors.

Now was the time to configure the sensors. The sensors, which will later be adhered to the sides of the tanks, need to be configured so that the panel knows what tank the sensor is on. To do that, there are multiple tabs on the top of sensor circuit board. Depending on the tank, you will cut one or more of the tabs off (which breaks a circuit on the board). For example, for the grey tank # 1, you cut off the grey tab, for the black tank # 1you cut off the black tab. For your number 2 grey tank, you cut off the grey tab and another tab (the black number 2 tank also requires 2 tab cuts). Be sure to read the instructions carefully to make sure you cut the correct tabs for each tank.

Once the sensors have been prepared, clean the side of the tank where you will put the sensor with rubbing alcohol. At this point, you will likely have to cut the sensor with scissors to fit the height of your tank. Before you use the adhesive backing on the sensor, use duct tape to temporarily put them on the tank while you connect the two wires from the sensor (black going to the common ground and blue to the other wire going to the sensors). This where those snap in place taps are very handy. Next, go the panel and press the appropriate button for a reading on that tank (it is advisable to have the tanks partially filled so you get a reading other than zero). (Hint, if you have multiple numbers of the same type of tanks – grey or black – do first the sensor for what will be your number one tank – e.g., grey # 1). I had no problem with my first tank (grey 1) so I did the same process for the next tank (black 1). Check, and confirm it is reading.

 

[k_enn]

You May Need to Configure the Panel for Additional Tank Sensors.

Next, do the process for the remaining tanks. However, when I hooked up grey 2, I did not get a reading. I could not figure out what the problem was since I was pressing the right buttons (Alt + grey) to get a reading for the grey 2 tank. I figured that the tabs cut on the sensor would cause the panel to recognize that sensor and report a reading. Instead, the panel read “dis5.” Upon looking that up in the material that they provide, it indicated that that grey 2 sensor was not enabled (dis5 = disconnect = not reading = not enabled). I then had to pour through the documentation to figure out how to enable it. It involved something like pressing alt, grey and alt again to get in to the programing mode. Once in the mode, I scrolled up with the black button until the display read “se n” – this indicate that the circuit did not know the number (“n”) of how many grey tanks there supposed to be (or perhaps the number of sensors on that tank since you can “stack” 2 sensors for tanks that are taller than one sensor). I had to press alt again to enter that setting mode, and scrolled up to “1se” which I interpret as telling the panel to look 1 grey sensor other than the grey 1 sensor. Pressing battery stores the setting at this point. I checked the reading for the grey 2 tank, and got a valid reading. I had to do the same process for black 2. At this point, I had all 4 sensors reporting correctly. (As far as recall, I did not have to program the panel for grey 1 and black1, hence my suggestion that you do these tanks first. If you do not get a reading, try following the preceding for specifying the number of sensors.) With all four sensors providing good readings, I secured all wires with zip ties.

At this point, if you want to hook up sensors for the freshwater tank, the LP tank (which uses your existing LP sensor) or the water pump power, you can do that too. The freshwater tank sensor can use the same sending wires you use for your other sensors, but the LP tank will require need to be connected to the existing sensor wiring for that tank.

 

[k_enn]

Mounting the Panel.

The last step was to mount the panel. I chose to mount it on the metal panel in the wet bay behind which are located the two forward tanks and various water lines. Mounting is straightforward – use the dimensions of the inner perimeter of the panel to measure and cut a template for your hole, use a Sharpie to mark the hole on the panel, cut the hole, run the pig tail through the hole and connect to the panel, place the panel over the hole, drill pilot holes for the screws, and use the provided screws to secure the panel. Now, you can secure the cover panels in the wet bay. Then, one final check to make sure it is working okay.

 

[k_enn]

Going Bluetooth.

With all the installation work being done, it is time to download the SeeLevel Bluetooth app like you would any other phone app. When you open the app, click on “find my tanks.” The app will than ask for what model panel you have 709 BTP3 or 709 BTP7. It will then scan to find a panel to pair with. (You can then rename to panel at this point). Activate the save setting to save the new name and panel to the app. Then, in the app, press the “my tanks” button to see the levels in your tanks. Get back to the menu screen, and you can use “settings” to customize the appearance of your app by renaming the tanks, and changing the color displayed for each tank. Lastly, you can use “alarms” to set a high level alarm (percent of tank fullness) for each grey and black tank or a low level alarm for the freshwater tank. The only problem I had was that when I downloaded the app and paired it to the panel, it would not display the level of my grey 2 tank, even though it appeared to recognize the existence of the tank by giving me customization options. This was quickly resolved by uninstalling the app, then reinstalling it and re-pairing it.

 

[k_enn]

Conclusion.

Overall, I think the SeeLevel system is great. It overcomes the problem of clogged sensors that prevented me from knowing how full the tanks were or when I would need to dump. (For example, the reading on my multiplex panel for grey 1 would read full when it was less than half full). The price of the system for four tanks was under $400. I did not have to cut any holes in the coach interior walls for wiring or mounting the panel, and I did not have to compromise tank integrity by drilling holes to install sensors. The Bluetooth app is fairly intuitive, and convenient. This can be a do-it-yourself installation job if you have just a modicum of ability and can follow in detail the instructions that come with the system. Be sure to plan out in advance of installation how you run the wiring. If you have access panels that need to be removed to get access to the tanks, that can be a time consuming aspect of the installation. Depending on your skill level and whether you have to deal with access panels, I would allow for three hours for a simple installation without access panels for a moderately skilled do-it-yourselfer, and maybe five to six hours for a novice that has to deal with access panels.

If you are having persistent problems with your existing OEM tank gauge reading, I highly recommend this as a viable solution.

 

[ghnl]

Excellent write up! Please plan on giving us a report after using the system for some time. Hopefully it is a better long term solution than the crappy (!) original sensors.

One comment. I like to use PosiTaps instead of the Snap Lock connectors (aka suitcase connectors). If needed, they are also available in a weathertight version. The main downside is the extra cost. But I've had too many issues with failed circuits in trailers wired with suitcase connectors that the extra cost has been worth it.

 

[45Kevin]

Great write up.
Please add a few pictures and link to the system you installed.

 

[16ACE27]

Please add a link to the system you installed.

Holding Tanks Solution – Garnet Instruments

www.garnetinstruments.com

 

[galOnTheGo]

wow, it is rare for me to find what I consider to be a great AND useful post these days, thank you very much for this! You are labeled an "advanced member", and this post shows why, THANKS again.
and thanks ACE for the link.
looks like the The SeeLeveL 709-2 System is the one for me at $211.34
a little more research on my part, like correct size of sensor, user reviews, and installation overview of my rig, and I will be acquiring this. my sensors have never worked accurately while in my possession.

the bluetooth version is only available in a limited selection for $264.70
initial reviews are good. comments about how the sensors are not outdoor friendly, need to be protected from the elements.
made in canada, price may be going up soon as tariffs may be starting

 

[Bob Nodine]

I have installed SeeLevel in 3 RV's and would not considerer anything else. The Bluetooth is fantastic and what we now have. Love that I can use my phone to monitor the tank levels. On our current RV the Bluetooth feature allowed me to ignore the interior monitoring panel and I only installed a monitoring panel in the outside service bay.

 

[k_enn]

<snip> the bluetooth version is only available in a limited selection for $264.70 <snip>

The bluetooth version is sold in systems of 3 sensors. You can buy additional sensors when you order. If you only need 2 sensors, I believe you by the components separate - panel and the number and size of sensors you will need.

<snip> the sensors are not outdoor friendly, need to be protected from the elements. <snip>

If your tanks (or where you will locate the sensors) are in cargo bay areas, you should be good. If not, the manufacturer suggests a couple of brands of spray on sealants you put over the sensors after they are installed.

 

[k_enn]

Update on Using Alarms

Yesterday was my first travel day. One tank was within 10% of the alarm level when I started out. I quickly found out that while driving, the contents of the tank will slosh around and trigger the alarm each time it sloshes above the alarm level. So my cellphone was constantly going off when I drove. The simple solution is to turn off the alarm before you travel. (Or you can drain you tank if you do not want an agitation action to help clean your tank).