Winterizing your RV (Axis/Vegas 24.1 specific)

[Scubawise]

Appreciate!

 

[JoeDS]

Hi where do we order covers for these?

Thanks Scubawise in montana ��

Just google "RV covers". You will be amazed at how many there are. One that has wind relief vents and plenty of under the RV hold down straps is a good feature. Its also nice to have one that allows you to zip off a panel at your door so you dont have to remove the cover to get inside. If you have the extra dollars getting a steel carport is a great solution.

 

[Projectman-THOR]

Just read all the posts and Ed’s book. First time winterizing our new, used Vegas 24.1. Just got a cover and bought antifreeze. Will do procedure this or next week. My question is on starting the rig and generator. My plan was to fill up the gas tank, Put in some Seafoam and run it through the engine and generator. Would that be enough to leave it for the winter. I saw that Jamie did start the engine and generator once a month in the winter. I have lithium coach batteries and Battleborn said I should disconnect and/ or bring them in for the winter. Does the generator run off the chassis battery to start? If not, it might be a pain to set up to run during the winter. Also do you put on a trickle charger on the chassis battery to keep it up?

 

[phalexander]

Just read all the posts and Ed’s book. First time winterizing our new, used Vegas 24.1. Just got a cover and bought antifreeze. Will do procedure this or next week. My question is on starting the rig and generator. My plan was to fill up the gas tank, Put in some Seafoam and run it through the engine and generator. Would that be enough to leave it for the winter. I saw that Jamie did start the engine and generator once a month in the winter. I have lithium coach batteries and Battleborn said I should disconnect and/ or bring them in for the winter. Does the generator run off the chassis battery to start? If not, it might be a pain to set up to run during the winter. Also do you put on a trickle charger on the chassis battery to keep it up?

One (of several) of the reasons I don’t use a cover is that I use a small solar panel to keep both coach and chassis batteries charged in the winter. Saves quite a few headaches with respect to storage and batteries. The reason they recommend running the generator for an hour or more per month is to keep the generator part of the unit free of rust. I.e. it’s not an engine issue it’s a generator issue. Also you need to keep the generator under load while doing the exercise. I usually run one or two space heaters (if it’s winter) for load and just sit in the coach and read or watch a movie. Or if its a nice day I like to go for a 20 or 30 mile ride because I believe it’s good for a vehicle’s “systems” (engine, transmission, axle, brakes etc.) to be used regularly. This too is hard to do if you have a cover.

 

[JamieGeek]

The coach battery starts the generator.

When I run it it sits: I walk around and make sure the exhaust pipes are sticking out from the cover and start both. After the V-10 comes up to operating temp I run it at about 1500 RPM for a bit to make sure the batteries are charged up.

To exercise the genny I simply set the convection oven to preheat to 350 or so. That puts enough draw on it (12+ amps). (Especially when its 0F out since it has a long way to go to get to 350! LOL) In fact that is the most use the convection oven gets! (Sometime's I'll use a hairdryer instead.)

 

[JoeDS]

Just read all the posts and Ed’s book. First time winterizing our new, used Vegas 24.1. Just got a cover and bought antifreeze. Will do procedure this or next week. My question is on starting the rig and generator. My plan was to fill up the gas tank, Put in some Seafoam and run it through the engine and generator. Would that be enough to leave it for the winter. I saw that Jamie did start the engine and generator once a month in the winter. I have lithium coach batteries and Battleborn said I should disconnect and/ or bring them in for the winter. Does the generator run off the chassis battery to start? If not, it might be a pain to set up to run during the winter. Also do you put on a trickle charger on the chassis battery to keep it up?

First if you read your Ford manual it suggests not using any engine additives, but I am sure to get lot of flack on that statement. Short engine runs are not good for any engine. As others will suggest drive your coach if possible otherwise Change your engine oil if its close to requiring it, add a fuel stabilizer (or use a name brand gas that includes it) then fill up the tank and let it sit for the winter. Again on the generator it needs to be run under load for 30 minutes and again change its oil if it needs it.


One nice thing about changing oil before winter is you are ready to go next spring. However to maintain your warranty Ford says 6 months or 5,000 miles on the V10 but they have increased that interval on the new 2021 V8. So use your own judgement on that. Personally most of us Drive our units very little compared to a car, so at least in my case I have a very happy V10 engine since it gets changed far more often than needed. My Diesel on the other hand is 15K or 12 months!


As for batteries, you dont need a trickle charger. There is one built into your coach. Unless you modified it when the Lithium batteries were added the coach unit charges all batteries coach and engine.


The generator starts off of the coach batteries unless you use the "Emergency engine start switch" which connects the coach and engine batteries together. It works both ways whether you are starting your generator or engine.


A word of caution on covering your coach and starting your engine. Be sure the cover does not cover the exhaust pipe on your generator or your engine. If it does (and if your Vegas is like mine it likely will) Put a warning sign on your engine and generator start switches.


Oh yes when winterizing the system don't forget the sink and shower traps and be sure your holding tanks are empty before you start the process.

 

[Projectman-THOR]

Thanks all for the info. I see a problem here because lithium batteries should not be charged in weather under 32 degrees. If generator runs off the coach batteries, Then I could start it with the batteries because that is OK but then the generator would be charging back the lithium’s which is a no-no. Hmmm.

I do have a deep cell 125 amp AGM that I could substitute and take the lithium’s out. That might solve the issue. Make sense?

 

[JoeDS]

Thanks all for the info. I see a problem here because lithium batteries should not be charged in weather under 32 degrees. If generator runs off the coach batteries, Then I could start it with the batteries because that is OK but then the generator would be charging back the lithium’s which is a no-no. Hmmm.

I do have a deep cell 125 amp AGM that I could substitute and take the lithium’s out. That might solve the issue. Make sense?

Absolutely! However, There are many many variables in Lithium batteries. Lithium Iron Phosphate Batteries can not be recharged below 32 degrees F, but other Lithium types can be. If yours is a Lithium Iron Phosphate Batteries type take it out or disconnect the positive terminal for the winter. There is really no need to have a battery in your unit for storage. You can start your generator using the battery bypass switch if needed.

 

[Projectman-THOR]

Thanks Joe, they are Battleborn which are LiPh. Previous owner had them installed. Not sure how they linked it together with the inverter/charger and the battery bypass. I will disconnect and try. I know that the Use/Store switch was bypassed.

 

[JoeDS]

Thanks Joe, they are Battleborn which are LiPh. Previous owner had them installed. Not sure how they linked it together with the inverter/charger and the battery bypass. I will disconnect and try. I know that the Use/Store switch was bypassed.

Interesting! You have your work cutout for you. As much as I enjoy our Vegas their complexity is often daunting.



Ah the good old days of of simply pulling a trailer. My first one didn't even have a bathroom, no brakes, no leveler bars. Just dropped it on the ball and drove to the city campground paid my $5 and camped near the bathroom. We thought our 5 gallon Hassock potty was a luxury!

 

[RandA GT5-2023]

We have a 27.7 2020 Vegas

I have a Vegas 25.2 with a tankless water heater so I don't have to worry about that. I put 30 psi air into the fresh water inlet and open all faucets, one at a time until only air comes out. I then dump the tanks and put 1/2 gallon of the pink stuff in each tank and a bit in each trap. Drive around the block to slosh it around to make sure the dump valves don't freeze. That's all i do, never had a problem.

So, We have a 2020 27.7 and can't see where we are suppose to put the anti-freeze. So is it the same for ours? We are taking it to Thor in Indiana and they say it needs to be winterized. There are no clear instructions on how to winterize our model.

 

[JamieGeek]

So, We have a 2020 27.7 and can't see where we are suppose to put the anti-freeze. So is it the same for ours? We are taking it to Thor in Indiana and they say it needs to be winterized. There are no clear instructions on how to winterize our model.

You would winterize it the same as any coach.

Find your water tank and water pump the "antifreeze injection port" will be very near there (and the valves to make it work).

 

[DavidEM]

Not sure how and if the 2021 Axis 24.1 is any different from the others, newer or older since I didn't read all of these 172 posts (so far) but here are the details of how to do it on mine. I just got through doing it.

You first dump the fresh water tank by turning the white plastic ball valve that is in a line that comes out of the tank and goes downward outside. My fresh water tank and pump are under the passenger side bed but other models than the 24.1 are different. Also make sure that your black and grey water tanks are empty. Now is a good time to flush the black water tank with the Sani T Flush, a wand stuck down into the toilet or just a water hose with a spray attachment. See more about this at the end.

Look at the two pics attached. The first is a close up with the red arrow pointing to a three way valve (almost invisible) and the yellow arrow pointing to the antifreeze suction fitting. With the water pump off, turn the three way valve 1/4 turn. This shuts off the pump from the water tank and allows it to take suction from the antifreeze fitting. That fitting has a 1/2" NPT plug in it which you remove. You can barely see it at the lower left of this pic.

Then get a 1/2" male npt x 3/8" hose plastic hose barb adapter from your hardware store and about 3' of 3/8" PVC tubing. Attach the adapter to the hose barb end of the tubing with a small hose clamp and screw the fitting into the blue female 1/2" fitting where you removed the plug. Then set a gallon of pink RV/marine antifreeze up above and put the free end of the tubing into the jug. This is all shown on the second pic.

If you have a tank type water heater you have to turn the bypass valves to avoid filling up the entire 6 gallon water heater with antifreeze. I have the Girard tankless water heater and it doesn't need bypass valves (although Thor in their wisdom installed them on mine).

Then turn on the water pump and open the cold side of kitchen sink fixture. You should hear the water pump come on and after 4-5 seconds you should see pink antifreeze come out. Do the same with the hot side which will take a bit longer since the flow path includes the water heater or its bypassed fittings.

Do the same with the lavatory fixture, the inside shower, the toilet flush and the outside shower. Pour about a cup down the kitchen sink, the lavatory and the shower to make sure the traps are full of antifreeze. Pour maybe two cups down the toilet. This takes about two gallons of RV antifreeze to do the whole system. Remove the tubing and replace the plug when you are finished.

When I dumped the grey and black water tanks for the last time, I left the valves open when I came home from my last campout. This assured that as much stuff as possible was out. Yes, I probably dumped as much as a gallon of black waste on the road but remember I had thoroughly flushed them with water as I dumped. I found that a couple of cups had come out when I winterized, about as much antifreeze as I put in. This let me feel that I had the two tanks empty and also fully winterized. I left the valves open afterwards.

My Axis is now fully winterized and I feel confident that I won't have any freezing problems.

When I dewinterize in the spring, all I have to do is turn the 3 way valve back 1/4 turn, shut off the fresh water dump valve, fill the tank with water, turn on the pump and flush out the antifreeze. Even though I used two gallons I would definitely flush about ten gallons through the system to get all residue of antifreeze out.

David

 

[JamieGeek]

Not sure how and if the 2021 Axis 24.1 is any different from the others, newer or older since I didn't read all of these 172 posts (so far) but here are the details of how to do it on mine. I just got through doing it.

You first dump the fresh water tank by turning the white plastic ball valve that is in a line that comes out of the tank and goes downward outside. My fresh water tank and pump are under the passenger side bed but other models than the 24.1 are different. Also make sure that your black and grey water tanks are empty. Now is a good time to flush the black water tank with the Sani T Flush, a wand stuck down into the toilet or just a water hose with a spray attachment. See more about this at the end.

Look at the two pics attached. The first is a close up with the red arrow pointing to a three way valve (almost invisible) and the yellow arrow pointing to the antifreeze suction fitting. With the water pump off, turn the three way valve 1/4 turn. This shuts off the pump from the water tank and allows it to take suction from the antifreeze fitting. That fitting has a 1/2" NPT plug in it which you remove. You can barely see it at the lower left of this pic.

Then get a 1/2" male npt x 3/8" hose plastic hose barb adapter from your hardware store and about 3' of 3/8" PVC tubing. Attach the adapter to the hose barb end of the tubing with a small hose clamp and screw the fitting into the blue female 1/2" fitting where you removed the plug. Then set a gallon of pink RV/marine antifreeze up above and put the free end of the tubing into the jug. This is all shown on the second pic.

If you have a tank type water heater you have to turn the bypass valves to avoid filling up the entire 6 gallon water heater with antifreeze. I have the Girard tankless water heater and it doesn't need bypass valves (although Thor in their wisdom installed them on mine).

Then turn on the water pump and open the cold side of kitchen sink fixture. You should hear the water pump come on and after 4-5 seconds you should see pink antifreeze come out. Do the same with the hot side which will take a bit longer since the flow path includes the water heater or its bypassed fittings.

Do the same with the lavatory fixture, the inside shower, the toilet flush and the outside shower. Pour about a cup down the kitchen sink, the lavatory and the shower to make sure the traps are full of antifreeze. Pour maybe two cups down the toilet. This takes about two gallons of RV antifreeze to do the whole system. Remove the tubing and replace the plug when you are finished.

When I dumped the grey and black water tanks for the last time, I left the valves open when I came home from my last campout. This assured that as much stuff as possible was out. Yes, I probably dumped as much as a gallon of black waste on the road but remember I had thoroughly flushed them with water as I dumped. I found that a couple of cups had come out when I winterized, about as much antifreeze as I put in. This let me feel that I had the two tanks empty and also fully winterized. I left the valves open afterwards.

My Axis is now fully winterized and I feel confident that I won't have any freezing problems.

When I dewinterize in the spring, all I have to do is turn the 3 way valve back 1/4 turn, shut off the fresh water dump valve, fill the tank with water, turn on the pump and flush out the antifreeze. Even though I used two gallons I would definitely flush about ten gallons through the system to get all residue of antifreeze out.

David

The very first post is how to do it on a 24.1 (well a 2014 24.1 LOL)

 

[DavidEM]

The very first post is how to do it on a 24.1 (well a 2014 24.1 LOL)

I don't think there are any real differences between my approach and JamieGeeks' approach other than a few pics.

David

 

[RunnerJim]

Winterizing w/tankless water heater

I don't think there are any real differences between my approach and JamieGeeks' approach other than a few pics.

David

Lots of great info on this thread. We have a tankless water heater. I turn the power switch off on the water heater before doing the winterization process, and also when doing the spring flush. Not sure what issues would develop with heated anti freeze in the system.

 

[happy-THOR]

Thanks for holding my hand as we prepare for our 1st winterizing!!


Finding out we need a 1/2 inch male NPT x 3/8 hose barb for the anti=freeze injector was a life saver!

 

[Nursx2-THOR]

I blew my lines out the other day and realised that by simply opening both sets low lines, the hot water tank was completely empty, and very little water was left in the system.

I have opened these before in early fall and late spring if we get a freeze warning and have never had issues.

Point of story- this would most likely be good enough by itself to rid the water and depressurise the system.

PS. I am not going to experiment to check my hypothesis!

 

[push toy]

winterize

I just drive my vegas to brownsville tx. much ez er

 

[Nursx2-THOR]

I just drive my vegas to brownsville tx. much ez er

O M G!!! Best post of the year!