Low slung generator

[Mr.Wiggles]

Has anyone smashed their onan generator on Thor scope or rize class B.
I did. Cracked the fiberglass access door and case and knocked the fuel line off the pump.
Good times.

[The Gritz Carlton]

Lots of folks. Thor's answer is to raise the rear end of the coach. There's no logical fix...it seems.

[Chateau_Nomad]

I guess Thor didn't "scope" out the amount of "rize" needed for generator clearance.

[Mr.Wiggles]

Thanks a lot. I feel better knowing they're not thinking.
I mean, who would take a self contained RV designed for boondocking across a 6" deep dry wash.

[Scubawise]

Originally Posted by Mr.Wiggles

Thanks a lot. I feel better knowing they're not thinking.
I mean, who would take a self contained RV designed for boondocking across a 6" deep dry wash.

Would a wet wash have helped?

[Mark54]

Originally Posted by Mr.Wiggles

Has anyone smashed their onan generator on Thor scope or rize class B.
I did. Cracked the fiberglass access door and case and knocked the fuel line off the pump.
Good times.

Sequence and Tellaro too- I had a 20AT the prev owner ran over something and ripped out all the wires- some have also hit bottom with the 800Ah battery systems, and caused damage to the floor inside!- really well thought out huh Thor?
I planned to dump the genny anyway, then sold the 20AT decided to buy new w/o it. Then moved my batteries and electrics inside from the bottom. Much better now.

First thing I did with my new rig was install Sumo springs- raised it up a little, and made it feel much more stable.

[RizeMaster]

Originally Posted by Mr.Wiggles

Has anyone smashed their onan generator on Thor scope or rize class B.
I did. Cracked the fiberglass access door and case and knocked the fuel line off the pump.
Good times.

Not yet. Very aware of the lack of clearance though. Watching speed bumps and steep gas station exits.
They installed Sumo springs which lifted up the rear about 1.5" for a slight improvement.

[ducksface]

Originally Posted by RizeMaster

They installed Sumo springs which lifted up the rear about 1.5" for a slight improvement.

That is absolutely positively no excuse the wrong way to lift a vehicle.
This isn't a
You be you
thing.

This is a
Your lack of knowledge/this install may cause your vehicle to flip in an aggressive maneuver.

On YouTube look at:
Just rolled in
And
Mechanical nightmare

You'll be joining this elite group.


I can't type this in any harsher tone.
I posted the screen capture to erase any doubt.
Recommending this lift would be borderline sabotage.

[Campguy21]

Backed the generator into a curb at a parking space once but it did not damage it that I could tell but sounded terrible. I also broke off half of the black tank handle at the same time which is also very low. I now leave the van sticking out further in parking places with curbs when backing up to avoid that.

[Mark54]

Originally Posted by Campguy21

Backed the generator into a curb at a parking space once but it did not damage it that I could tell but sounded terrible. I also broke off half of the black tank handle at the same time which is also very low. I now leave the van sticking out further in parking places with curbs when backing up to avoid that.

That tank handle they put on is stupid- When I got my rig, I thought the valve was open- nope.

I removed the extension and replaced the black valve handle with a 1/4-20 threaded ball pull instead.

I also replaced the tank hanger bolts with SS turnbuckles.
Many have had the tanks fall after hitting bumps and unhanging them b/c they are too long! Still susceptible, just not as much.

Btw, the Sumo springs may not lift enough, but they sure do improve the ride and handling. No more feeling like I am tipping over on exit ramps! I did both F&R, full spacers. Not intended as lifts, just stabilizers, tho I did get an extra inch in the rear.

[Mr.Wiggles]

Yeah, I have planned on Sumos, but $500 - 600 for parts only.

[MCP]

Originally Posted by ducksface

That is absolutely positively no excuse the wrong way to lift a vehicle.
This isn't a
You be you
thing.

This is a
Your lack of knowledge/this install may cause your vehicle to flip in an aggressive maneuver.

On YouTube look at:
Just rolled in
And
Mechanical nightmare

You'll be joining this elite group.


I can't type this in any harsher tone.
I posted the screen capture to erase any doubt.
Recommending this lift would be borderline sabotage.

Absolutely correct! Their purpose is to "absorb" not to "lift". On my Class B, I purposely installed them without one of the 1" spacers, just filling the gap and without being under compression while at rest.. I wanted to reduce the notorious RV sway but did not want to noticeably stiffen the ride. Not sure I'd even notice any added stiffness but I was satisfied with how they worked on a previous Class C. On the Promaster they are even better. Even if I would have jammed in the extra 1" spacer I don't think I would have gotten even a 1/4" lift. I've seen others state (maybe on FB) that they get up to 3" lift! (Not sure I buy into that claim!) In other words, compressing the +/-6" Sumo to 50%, basically its limit. Now that would be a stiff ride!

[MCP]

Originally Posted by Mark54

That tank handle they put on is stupid- When I got my rig, I thought the valve was open- nope.

I removed the extension and replaced the black valve handle with a 1/4-20 threaded ball pull instead.

I also replaced the tank hanger bolts with SS turnbuckles.
Many have had the tanks fall after hitting bumps and unhanging them b/c they are too long! Still susceptible, just not as much.

Btw, the Sumo springs may not lift enough, but they sure do improve the ride and handling. No more feeling like I am tipping over on exit ramps! I did both F&R, full spacers. Not intended as lifts, just stabilizers, tho I did get an extra inch in the rear.

Saw the same black tank valve handle issue on our Tellaro when we picked it up from the dealer..They kind of shrugged their shoulders when I pointed it out. Got it home and did the same as you, but I just shortened it so that it was no lower than the valve itself. I even thought about rotating the valve body up but never got that far.

The tank support rods were exactly like yours...vulnerable. Unfortunately I discovered it when the tow truck driver dragged the van onto his flatbed and they scrapped on the ground, bent, and disconnected. (Pack rat wiring harness issue, but that's another story.) Got them reattached for the ride to the Ram dealer, but when I got it home I did similar to you except I used new hangers and shorter. I like the stainless turnbuckle idea though, and may go that route.

[LowOnCash]

Originally Posted by Mark54

That tank handle they put on is stupid- When I got my rig, I thought the valve was open- nope.

I removed the extension and replaced the black valve handle with a 1/4-20 threaded ball pull instead.

I also replaced the tank hanger bolts with SS turnbuckles.
Many have had the tanks fall after hitting bumps and unhanging them b/c they are too long! Still susceptible, just not as much.

Btw, the Sumo springs may not lift enough, but they sure do improve the ride and handling. No more feeling like I am tipping over on exit ramps! I did both F&R, full spacers. Not intended as lifts, just stabilizers, tho I did get an extra inch in the rear.

I would be more concerned about all the raw wires hanging out exposed. Also note the steel support holding the heavy tank is Crushing the heat blanket and will surely short out the heat elements

Mike

[RizeMaster]

Originally Posted by ducksface

That is absolutely positively no excuse the wrong way to lift a vehicle.
This isn't a
You be you
thing.

This is a
Your lack of knowledge/this install may cause your vehicle to flip in an aggressive maneuver.

On YouTube look at:
Just rolled in
And
Mechanical nightmare

You'll be joining this elite group.


I can't type this in any harsher tone.
I posted the screen capture to erase any doubt.
Recommending this lift would be borderline sabotage.

Thank you for putting my mind at ease.
All I can say is - this is what Thor did in their official "Genny scratching the road" recall. I was hoping they would re-locate it to a place allowing for better clearance, as this is what they seem to have done with later iterations of these vehicles.


Will probably be the last thoughts going through my mind while rolling down Kings Canyon.

[ducksface]

You'll love kings canyon.

[WhatnxtRV]

Measured the clearance on my Rize 18M. Its 6 inches off of the ground. The frame is 6.5". Has the factory "upgrade". Plates are steel on the bottom and sides of the gen. Would be good for rocks or sticks. Not much protection against road debris or potholes. Still, much better than my VW TDI's that I have owned at 3.5" and an pot-metal oil pans.

Will be getting under the RV and cleaning-up the wires that hang under the frame. Not a very clean build.

[Scubawise]

Originally Posted by WhatnxtRV

Measured the clearance on my Rize 18M. Its 6 inches off of the ground. The frame is 6.5". Has the factory "upgrade". Plates are steel on the bottom and sides of the gen. Would be good for rocks or sticks. Not much protection against road debris or potholes. Still, much better than my VW TDI's that I have owned at 3.5" and an pot-metal oil pans.

Will be getting under the RV and cleaning-up the wires that hang under the frame. Not a very clean build.

Good luck my friend.
That sounds frustrating.
My tail pipe was vibrating a little.
Had a tire shop use a metal u bracket soldered to the frame.
Our Subaru has 8.5 inch clearance, which we had to have for Montana snow and Southwest hiking.
Maybe use some metal or pvc pipe for those wires.

[Mark54]

Originally Posted by WhatnxtRV

Measured the clearance on my Rize 18M. Its 6 inches off of the ground. The frame is 6.5". Has the factory "upgrade". Plates are steel on the bottom and sides of the gen. Would be good for rocks or sticks. Not much protection against road debris or potholes. Still, much better than my VW TDI's that I have owned at 3.5" and an pot-metal oil pans.

Will be getting under the RV and cleaning-up the wires that hang under the frame. Not a very clean build.

ALL of my VW's got the Panzer plate from Dieselgeek. Same cost as the useless plastic one, and 3/16" aluminum.

If I had a generator, i would add this plate:
https://juggernautusa.com/products/g...innebago-solis

[LowOnCash]

This device will save your under-carriage on most RV's simply hooks to the hitch, does not interfere with trailer hookups. It extends down to protect hitch and skids and hopefully generator


Mike