Auto Leveling Issue

[ClassCnewbie]

2020 Thor Outlaw 29J
So When on a not to bad slope and I do the Auto level the jacks come out and it levels itself good. No Issues. However, if im on any kind of slope where the RV is Tilted, The Auto level starts level and it raises one side then the other side and then its like it gets confused and starts raising the wrong side and making it go way off level, to where it really feels unsafe to where I hit the power button to abort. Has anyone ever come across this issue?

[abjbrtd]

I've read about similar problems on "Equalizer Systems" not sure Thor uses them.

Here's a link to LCI (Lippert) "LCI Motorized Leveling
- Unidirectional
(2009-Present)
OWNER'S MANUAL" pdf pg 13.
https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws...cd-0001526.pdf

Find this valve and make sure it's
"Turned COUNTERCLOCKWISE to return the valve to normal use." copied from pg13.

It's how you put the system in manual operation if you lose power.

[Beau388]

Originally Posted by ClassCnewbie

2020 Thor Outlaw 29J
So When on a not to bad slope and I do the Auto level the jacks come out and it levels itself good. No Issues. However, if im on any kind of slope where the RV is Tilted, The Auto level starts level and it raises one side then the other side and then its like it gets confused and starts raising the wrong side and making it go way off level, to where it really feels unsafe to where I hit the power button to abort. Has anyone ever come across this issue?

I have not has this issue but here is my take. Among the components of Lippert Components Power Gear hydraulic leveling system is the controller or logic unit. It is separate from the control unit in the cab. Usually it is located in the top of the basement compartment with the hydraulic pump. It controls what happens and is programmable. When you activate auto level, the system waits until there is 10 seconds in no change of the two level sensors. It then grounds the jacks one at a time. Comparing the stored level setting with the sensed level settings level, the worse out off level is corrected first. If the difference in the out of level exceeds the jacks capacity the system will not auto level. After the first level correction, the system proceeds to the other pairs of jacks until all jacks have pressures above 1,500 psi or the coach is level. If it is not level the the controller considers if there remaining out of level condition can be correct by raising a pair of jacks; if so, it raises the jacks slightly. This may happen several times. This is when the many consider this a thrilling ride. The problem is there is only circuit to move the jacks up and that is the retract circuit which has about 4 times the flow of the pressure circuit. This is so you don't have pressure in the fluid return system when retracting the jacks. If your system doesn't work that way, you may have a problem in the controller or logic module but first I would try reprogramming the level position in the computer.

[abjbrtd]

Originally Posted by Beau388

I have not has this issue but here is my take. Among the components of Lippert Components Power Gear hydraulic leveling system is the controller or logic unit. It is separate from the control unit in the cab. Usually it is located in the top of the basement compartment with the hydraulic pump. It controls what happens and is programmable. When you activate auto level, the system waits until there is 10 seconds in no change of the two level sensors. It then grounds the jacks one at a time. Comparing the stored level setting with the sensed level settings level, the worse out off level is corrected first. If the difference in the out of level exceeds the jacks capacity the system will not auto level. After the first level correction, the system proceeds to the other pairs of jacks until all jacks have pressures above 1,500 psi or the coach is level. If it is not level the the controller considers if there remaining out of level condition can be correct by raising a pair of jacks; if so, it raises the jacks slightly. This may happen several times. This is when the many consider this a thrilling ride. The problem is there is only circuit to move the jacks up and that is the retract circuit which has about 4 times the flow of the pressure circuit. This is so you don't have pressure in the fluid return system when retracting the jacks. If your system doesn't work that way, you may have a problem in the controller or logic module but first I would try reprogramming the level position in the computer.

Here's the zero point calibration.

Level Zero Point Calibration
Before auto leveling features are available, the Level Zero point must be set. This is the point to which the
system will return when an auto leveling cycle is initiated. To set the zero point (controller module must be
fully secured in production intent location), first run a manual leveling sequence to get the vehicle to the
desired level point. Then activate the Level Zero point configuration mode.
This mode is enabled by performing the following sequence:
1. Turn panel off. Then turn panel on.
2. Perform the following:
A. Press the Front switch 5 times.
B. Press the Rear switch 5 times.
3. At this point all LED outputs will blink, and the buzzer will be off.
4. You are now in IDLE mode ready to set Zero Point.
5. With a carpenter’s level, manually level the coach. This will give the leveling controls the reference
point for the Zero Point Configuration.
6. When coach is completely leveled, manually press the Retract All switch 3 times to set the zero point.
For Diesel Units with Airbag Suspensions ONLY:
Note: You may also enter zero mode per above at anytime the system is in IDLE mode. The user then has
control to extend any pair of jacks while in zero mode in order to position the vehicle properly prior
to programming

[wbjcgj]

Wow.

We purchased HWH Auto leveling system for our Thor 26HE.

We had it installed at Camping World and brought it home late fall and I tried them and it didn't seem to work but I had quite a slope where I was in our drive.

We packed it away until this spring.

Then this spring I got serious with the issue, sounded just like you describe.

I found if I raised the back, it work. If I raised the front, it worked.

However if I raised the left, it would raise the rear left and the RIGHT -Front.

If I raised the right it would raise the rear right and the LEFT Front.

It was an easy fix, I scouched under it and reversed the two hydraulic lines from the front jacks. It now works perfectly.

I cannot fault Camping World because on the level it would work perfectly, the jacks lower until they touch and raise 3/4", that's when they sense they are down(read by a pressure switch on each jack) and stabilized. Then the computer does the level. Left to right, then front to back.

It is worth trying to raise each of the four sides to be sure they are plumbed correctly.

[LandKO]

I stopped using the auto level function on our Big Foot levelers.
90% of the time it wanted to lift the front tires off the ground.
I now put one foot down at a time until it touches the ground. When all are down and touching I use my Level mate Pro app on my phone to tell me what corner(s) need lifting. Normally one of the rear tires is good and all I need to do is level the other corners. Sometimes though, a front tire will be a little bit off the ground.

[MaceMan]

Stop that! Let the system run until it's finished
. It moves one way then thinks about it, then moves some more, thinks then moves in 3 axis at once and the green level light comes on. Give it time to get finished.

[Lt Keefer]

Originally Posted by MaceMan

Stop that! Let the system run until it's finished
. It moves one way then thinks about it, then moves some more, thinks then moves in 3 axis at once and the green level light comes on. Give it time to get finished.

Agree with this post. When I got my first coach with auto level I thought the system was bonkers, all the movements and such. I read on this forum about manual level, but it seemed to take longer and with as much movement as the auto feature. Plus I had to dig out the level. Anyway. I learned to let the auto level do it's thing and viola, I like it better that way. I then reset the level so that the A/C always drips off the back corner and I like it even more. Let the system do its thing.

[Bob Denman]

https://www.thorforums.com/forums/at...1&d=1595532145

[lwmcguire]

There are different leveling systems out there
The one in my rig arrows light indicating which jacks need extended to get to level when manual leveling
the built in level also lights and gives you another visual
I use the 1/2 bath door as the side to side indicator and like the head of the bed to be about an inch higher which is the passenger side
I can manual level in a couple of minutes and my auto level does take longer
certainly different systems may give different results
Whatever works for you is the way to go

[IDguy]

I’m on my second LCI hydraulic system ( new RV ). They perform pretty much the same. Auto level works OK if the site is pretty level. Not so much if there is a difference over about six inches. It likes to lift the wheels off the ground. It goes through a weird seeming nonsense procedure vs. unidirectional leveling from low point.

I have a big X level that I lay on the floor to manual level. I get it done in half the time and with much less extension than auto. It has green/red LEDs on each leg.

I try to have the rear axel on the high point and start with putting down the front jacks to contact. Then I extend the rear jacks to contact. Then level starting with the front. Usually just front then adjust one side.

My current system also has a glitch the dealer hasn’t been able to replicate and fix. It randomly throws the breaker. At least a half dozen times so far...always with auto level. Once I found the breaker I have to live with it.

[lwmcguire]

Originally Posted by IDguy

I’m on my second LCI hydraulic system ( new RV ). They perform pretty much the same. Auto level works OK if the site is pretty level. Not so much if there is a difference over about six inches. It likes to lift the wheels off the ground. It goes through a weird seeming nonsense procedure vs. unidirectional leveling from low point.

I have a big X level that I lay on the floor to manual level. I get it done in half the time and with much less extension than auto. It has green/red LEDs on each leg.

I try to have the rear axel on the high point and start with putting down the front jacks to contact. Then I extend the rear jacks to contact. Then level starting with the front. Usually just front then adjust one side.

My current system also has a glitch the dealer hasn’t been able to replicate and fix. It randomly throws the breaker. At least a half dozen times so far...always with auto level. Once I found the breaker I have to live with it.

I do a similar level always manual. Usually i don't need the extra step for the door and with auto level, almost always

[macdaddy1111]

Nice Job dude!! Printed that out and put in the rv! Ha

Originally Posted by abjbrtd

Here's the zero point calibration.

Level Zero Point Calibration
Before auto leveling features are available, the Level Zero point must be set. This is the point to which the
system will return when an auto leveling cycle is initiated. To set the zero point (controller module must be
fully secured in production intent location), first run a manual leveling sequence to get the vehicle to the
desired level point. Then activate the Level Zero point configuration mode.
This mode is enabled by performing the following sequence:
1. Turn panel off. Then turn panel on.
2. Perform the following:
A. Press the Front switch 5 times.
B. Press the Rear switch 5 times.
3. At this point all LED outputs will blink, and the buzzer will be off.
4. You are now in IDLE mode ready to set Zero Point.
5. With a carpenter’s level, manually level the coach. This will give the leveling controls the reference
point for the Zero Point Configuration.
6. When coach is completely leveled, manually press the Retract All switch 3 times to set the zero point.
For Diesel Units with Airbag Suspensions ONLY:
Note: You may also enter zero mode per above at anytime the system is in IDLE mode. The user then has
control to extend any pair of jacks while in zero mode in order to position the vehicle properly prior
to programming

[lwmcguire]

Originally Posted by macdaddy1111

Nice Job dude!! Printed that out and put in the rv! Ha

Good overview and I have recalibrated mine after the very first trip when it was new

The new calibration resulted in at least 4 inches closer to the ground on auto level and was certainly worth doing

[thisoldman]

My Thor Chateau 31W came with the color-coded rear hydraulic lines reversed--the left rear line went to right rear jack and vice versa. (Just one of many examples of Thor's abysmal quality control.) On even a nearly flat surface the system functioned like Frankenlevel and eventually gave up with an error message. The dealer fixed it by swapping the electrical connections rather than switching the hydraulic lines; the net result was the same and their solution was quick and cost-effective.


However...the LCI auto leveling function leaves a lot to be desired. As others have mentioned, it usually causes one or both front wheels to become airborne on all but the most level of surfaces. I have repeatedly recalibrated the unit but it seems to make little or no difference. Manual deployment with the aid of a level on the floor is a necessity on significantly uneven surfaces.

[Mciampa99]

Had a glitch with my Auto Level System last month. Resulted in a bent leveling jack. One side lifted the back tires right off the ground on a spot that was very level.

Fortunately the Warranty I purchased covered the part and instead of waiting for the dealer to install it I did it myself. Once installed I called Lippert and they walked me through resetting the codes. Now it seems to work as it should again.