Quote:
Originally Posted by vegasruv24.1
thanks for the kind words  but like I said, I'm not one to just keep throwing parts at something, and would rather figure it out, If I can't,.. I take it to someone that can... but first I like to make sure it's not something basic and easy for me to fix  |
Thanks for your write up, I am going to copy and print it, for future references.
I, like you, like to investigate the culprit, not just parts change till fixed.
In my home garage, I too have the volt meter load tester from Harbor Freight, also a Fluke meter tester, what I don't have is a hygrometer.
Don't ask me why, I just don't.
My converter did test out for absolutely no 12 volt output.
That is why I am replacing it.
A while back, I fabricated a spare tire carrier mounted behind the rear axle, at that time I noticed different grounds to the frame.
Every one I came across, I cleaned real good, then re assembled using some de-oxidizer grease on the connection.
They were getting some corrosion started, and I know how bad grounds will do you, like you said earlier.
At my coach battery location, I cleaned that area up too.
It looked as if the battery carrier had been run aground and was shifted some.
I built a reinforcement bracket between the frame and the batteries carrier.
Re-located the three 50 amp 12vdc circuit breakers that were hard to find, into the battery area, they can now be seen, and reached, with the step open.
Re-routed the battery cables because they were looped, hanging down, it looked they could snag on something, but not now, they are secured.
That was during a Lippert hydraulic leveling troubleshooting that ended up being the directional valve sticking, $40 part.
Anyway, I didn't know about the "in one end-out the other", but makes perfect sense, I will check and correct if not.
I will do your test too, thank you much on the tip.
I am also digging in the dirt, a do-it-yourself project for a cement pad, to park the RV upon.
Have a nice day!
Thor Forums
