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Well, I am sure there are experts on this forum that know much more about testing alternators and charging systems than I ever will. The easiest test is just run the engine/alternator and measure voltage across the chassis battery while in your driveway. Alternator should put out over 14+vdc consistently unless the battery is badly discharged or has other issues (shorted cells etc). Fully charged wet cell battery (not charging and lightly or no load on it) should read 12.6 volts. If the dash battery symbol only occasionally comes on when the engine is running then you could be standing there a while. If the dash battery lamp is on more than off you can probably measure the low point voltage value if the meter reading is not bouncing around. Basically it is a confirmation that the lamp flashes are in fact readable dips in voltage in the alternator/charging cct (circuit).
This may not be an alternator problem in the end, but I would shut off the engine and start checking as much in the alternator/charging circuit as you can first. This is much easier to do in a class C than your class A. You might be able to get a free diagnosis on your alternator charging/load test situation from some auto stores (assuming your RV will fit in the parking lot there). Call around and see if someone “reputable” will test it for you. I would do some checking on basic things first, like clean and tight battery cables; clean and tight alternator cables and associated wiring connectors. Good clean and tight ground connections. Maybe the voltage regulator is failing inside the alternator; bad connection somewhere.....etc. You Tube might also show some tests you can run to check the alternator using a voltmeter yourself, but in a class A, access will not be convenient. If you are “electrically challenged” then this might be a job for a Ford tech.
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