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Old 01-10-2018, 02:13 PM   #1
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Anderson Valve Leak???

When connected to city water hookup the Anderson water valve in my 2017 MS is leaking and filling the fresh water tank. It's filling at about 3 gallons per hour. I let it fill then turn off the city water and turn on the pump until the tank is empty. So not an emergency but needs to be fixed.

I have a new valve on the way from DRV.

Has anyone out there replaced their Anderson valve before? Any tricks or concerns I should be aware of before replacing the valve myself?
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Old 01-10-2018, 02:28 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by golf-bears View Post
When connected to city water hookup the Anderson water valve in my 2017 MS is leaking and filling the fresh water tank. It's filling at about 3 gallons per hour. I let it fill then turn off the city water and turn on the pump until the tank is empty. So not an emergency but needs to be fixed.

I have a new valve on the way from DRV.

Has anyone out there replaced their Anderson valve before? Any tricks or concerns I should be aware of before replacing the valve myself?
I would replace or clean your water pump check valve first. When your fresh water tank is filling up, this is usually the culprit. You can contact Shurflo and they will send you one for free if you are still within warranty.

After you do that and if your fresh water tank is still filling up, cycle your valve around a few times. It is best to have the city water off when rotating the 4-way valve too. If that doesn't do it, then contact Anderson Brass and they will send you a new one. It is pretty easy to install and you should definitely be back in business. I am thinking it is just your water pump check valve though.
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Old 01-10-2018, 02:41 PM   #3
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Techn0, thanks for the quick response and water pump check valve suggestion. Didn't think about that at all. I know the Anderson valve is prone to leakage as a number of folks have had the problem.

I will check per your suggestion. Thanks.
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Old 01-10-2018, 03:03 PM   #4
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Funny you bring this up. Our Anderson Kantleak is dripping a small amount of water down the back from the crossover between the two valves. Called Anderson and our unit came with the 200RV-PT and the guy (Ron) I spoke with suggested replacing it with the 200RV-WHB because the crossover is pressed on instead of threaded and he said that is where most of the leaks are coming from. He said they had tried to get DRV to move to this model but they would not do it. I had to buy the new one for $145 from one of their distributors and have a mobile RV tech coming out Friday to replace it which will probably cost a couple hundred more. Sounds like this company needs to change the name of their product to Doesleak.
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Old 01-10-2018, 04:36 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by golf-bears View Post
When connected to city water hookup the Anderson water valve in my 2017 MS is leaking and filling the fresh water tank. It's filling at about 3 gallons per hour. I let it fill then turn off the city water and turn on the pump until the tank is empty. So not an emergency but needs to be fixed.



I have a new valve on the way from DRV.



Has anyone out there replaced their Anderson valve before? Any tricks or concerns I should be aware of before replacing the valve myself?


I replaced one last year. It is a simple procedure. There is a notched washer that goes on one end. If it is not installed correctly, the valve assembly will not seat correctly. (Yes, I got it wrong at first.) Once the washer is in correctly, the final nuts screws in easily.
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Old 01-10-2018, 04:41 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Boatbird View Post
I replaced one last year. It is a simple procedure. There is a notched washer that goes on one end. If it is not installed correctly, the valve assembly will not seat correctly. (Yes, I got it wrong at first.) Once the washer is in correctly, the final nuts screws in easily.


My problem was the Anderson unit, but I just replaced the core to,the 4 way unit. One of the O rings on the cylinder had broken. The replacement core was about $30.
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Old 01-10-2018, 05:08 PM   #7
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"I am thinking it is just your water pump check valve though."

This used to be an issue but have not heard of this for a few years now. Don't think DRV uses Shur Flo any longer. Someone please correct if that is not true.
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Old 01-10-2018, 05:42 PM   #8
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Had the exact same problem and called Anderson. I was told that if and crud gets in the valve it will ruin the O rings. I ordered a replacement core like Boatbird. When I removed the core sure enough the O rings were destroyed. Took about 15 minutes to change the core. If DRV is sending you a complete valve I would remove the core and install it in the existing unit. That would be a much easier process than changing out the whole valve. I now have a filter before the Anderson valve and no problems for a year and a half. Dick
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Old 01-10-2018, 06:03 PM   #9
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we've had this issue with our Anderson 4-way valve, and I decided to end it by adding a water line cut off handle/valve between the Anderson output and the water tank. Now I can 'allow' the tank to fill while on city water while still enjoying the water to use in the coach, and cut off the valve when the tank is full. Simple.
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Old 01-10-2018, 10:33 PM   #10
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I am going to rebuild the valves once our unit is replaced and keep it as a spare. I just plan on waiting until they get the new brass replacement valves on the market. Ron said they hope to have them out soon.
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Old 01-11-2018, 05:13 AM   #11
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Anderson has a video at the bottom of the page here showing how to replace the core.

Anderson Brass Company | Manufacturers of Miniature Ball Valves, Brass Ball Valves, Drain Valves, Specialty Valves, Check Valves, Mulit-port Valves in Hartsville, SC
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Old 01-11-2018, 02:11 PM   #12
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TurnerFam, Can you give me more detail or pictures on your "water line cut off handle/valve" fix. I don't understand what exactly you did.

Thanks
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Old 01-11-2018, 02:41 PM   #13
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we've had this issue with our Anderson 4-way valve, and I decided to end it by adding a water line cut off handle/valve between the Anderson output and the water tank. Now I can 'allow' the tank to fill while on city water while still enjoying the water to use in the coach, and cut off the valve when the tank is full. Simple.

golf-bears, you realize he is a motorhomer, so it will probably have no relation your 5th wheel.
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Old 01-11-2018, 02:59 PM   #14
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No did not notice that. Thanks for the heads up.
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Old 01-11-2018, 07:21 PM   #15
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It should be a simple setup--just splice in a shutoff valve in the line from the Anderson going to the water tank. Turned off, no water could go to the tank; need to fill the tank just open the shutoff and turn the Anderson to the correct position. When full as needed, reverse the procedure.
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Old 01-11-2018, 08:36 PM   #16
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exactly... but if you have a 'leak' into the water tank, then THIS is the only valve you need to open/close.
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Old 01-11-2018, 09:48 PM   #17
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exactly... but if you have a 'leak' into the water tank, then THIS is the only valve you need to open/close.
Or of course you could properly fix the problem. Never did understand modifying a system instead of correcting the problem. Additionally I believe, and could be wrong, that is a picture of a compression fitting valve used on copper. JMHO
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Old 01-12-2018, 05:20 PM   #18
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And in correcting the problem by replacing parts that may fail again? Anderson doesn't seem to be able to fix this o-ring wear, thus the new and expensive brass one to be coming soon. A shutoff valve will solve his tank filling problem, but not a leak to the outside of the valve.
There are too many convenience features being brought out--witness the control pad on the new DRVs--if it fails, where does that leave you?
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Old 01-12-2018, 09:13 PM   #19
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I dont know about the valve failing again. After ours failed I took their advice and added a filter before the valve and have been trouble free for a year. (I'm knocking on wood right now) I now have a particulate filter before the valve and installed a carbon filter in the rig. We will how it goes this summer. Dick
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Old 01-13-2018, 12:02 AM   #20
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the picture is simple an example of an 'on/off' inline water valve - but what will work best in 'your' situation depends on your plumbing type - but most RV factories use 'pex' type lines(usually blue and red)...and with some standard 'flexible' water lines in other areas.

they make these water valves to fit most any type and style of plumbing you wish...

and, no, just 'fixing' the Anderson valve/cartridge over and over is also not a 'solution', as you assume, unless you like doing the same thing over and over. I find that the in-line cutoff valve actually creates a new option for filling the water tank, without having to 'wait' for it to fill while no other plumbing items can be used. This way I can do both at the same time, and no longer be concerned with the 'leaking' Anderson 4-way valve.

I also installed a water line cutoff behind my toilet, as cutting off the whole water system for a whole day while trying to diagnose and fix a leaky toilet is also aggravating.

It's interesting that in most every home there is a water line cutoff at every fixture, but in most RVs there is none, only the main cutoff.
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