Stripped screws in slide tracks

[ChiefBob]

I have a new to me 2028 Aria 3401. In reading about the unit I am learning to be mindful of the Swintech slides. I am checking the screws for tightness and many will tighten a bit. A few screws are stripped out in the slide wall and some are cocked, not flush against the track and the head is stripped. Can I get some screws from Thor and install new screws next the these? So far I see no damage or wear on the tracks.

Thanks

[ducksface]

I'm not sure why you'd get thor involved in screws....

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by ducksface

I'm not sure why you'd get thor involved in screws....

Egggzactly!

[ChiefBob]

Thanks for the replies. Just trying to use the same screws so the heads take the same bit during periodic checks. Where else can I find matching screws?

[m1noel]

Originally Posted by ChiefBob

Thanks for the replies. Just trying to use the same screws so the heads take the same bit during periodic checks. Where else can I find matching screws?

https://www.amazon.com/Self-Drilling...382659366&th=1

[ChiefBob]

Thanks! Anyone see any issues with adding a screw next to the ones I can’t tighten?

[Jimbo56]

Originally Posted by ChiefBob

Thanks! Anyone see any issues with adding a screw next to the ones I can’t tighten?

If it is me, I’m taking a screw to Ace Hardware and getting a stainless steel screw one size larger diameter. The same size screws won’t bite and will strip as well. Not sure, but I think you’re only screwing into plywood.

[Jimbo56]

Just another thought! Are the existing screws rusty? If so, you have water seepage. If not, they were just improperly installed at factory. I’d also get a couple tubes of pro cell RV sealant (not silicone) and glop everything after the new screws. Some even suggest putting sealant on the new screws before inserting them. I lightly check every screw and bolt in the entire coach once a year. Electrical connections as well. Cabinet handles, latches, and hinges.

[CHS]

Get them in stainless steel and a little longer than the OEM ones to go past the stripped out wood and also for (better holding)

[ChiefBob]

The screws are not rusty. I am also not putting them in the same holes since the bit socket in the factory screws is stripped out so I can't get the old screws out. I am planning to put additional screws about an inch away from the screws I can't tighten.

[chunker21]

Originally Posted by CHS

Get them in stainless steel and a little longer than the OEM ones to go past the stripped out wood and also for (better holding)

I wouldn't go longer since you don't know what is behind the existing screw, but as suggested, go one size larger. Yes seal new holes and stainless if replacing. If adding, the same size should work. If adding I would predrill the holes using a drill stop, dab of sealant in the hole, silicone will work fine, install screws.

[ChiefBob]

Thanks

[CHS]

Originally Posted by chunker21

I wouldn't go longer since you don't know what is behind the existing screw, but as suggested, go one size larger. Yes seal new holes and stainless if replacing. If adding, the same size should work. If adding I would predrill the holes using a drill stop, dab of sealant in the hole, silicone will work fine, install screws.

The problem with going larger is that the head will also be larger and may not fit flush with the existing (beveled) holes. Your only screwing into a sheet of plywood flooring so there should not be anything else in the way using longer screws.

[chunker21]

Originally Posted by CHS

The problem with going larger is that the head will also be larger and may not fit flush with the existing (beveled) holes. Your only screwing into a sheet of plywood flooring so there should not be anything else in the way using longer screws.

This solves the bevel issue.

https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-Tools-C...97776556&psc=1

[ChiefBob]

The screws are pan head so there is no bevel issue. I ordered some stainless screws of the size and length. Thanks for all of your help.

[ChiefBob]

When I received the screws I realized they should be #10 and not #8. I wanted to help someone else not make the same mistake.

[Hittntherooad]

Originally Posted by Jimbo56

Just another thought! Are the existing screws rusty? If so, you have water seepage. If not, they were just improperly installed at factory. I’d also get a couple tubes of pro cell RV sealant (not silicone) and glop everything after the new screws. Some even suggest putting sealant on the new screws before inserting them. I lightly check every screw and bolt in the entire coach once a year. Electrical connections as well. Cabinet handles, latches, and hinges.

Doubt you will see rusty screws in a 2028?
I recommend anyone buying a used motorhome or camper to remove a few screws around and under the slides. Here is what I found some of my screws. The picture frame trim seal was leaking.

[k.maslowski@comcast.net]

Originally Posted by ducksface

I'm not sure why you'd get thor involved in screws....

Take out one screw, go to FastenAll, and get more screws. They are a great resource for hardware. Use screws with "square drive" heads. Better than Phillips.

[keger]

Make sure the screws are designed to be used in plywood. If not they might not hold correctly. Also don't over tighten them, maybe that's what happened to the ones you said were stripped. There are products out there that will repair a stripped hole. You might want to look into this.

[ChiefBob]

I got the replacement/supplemental stainless screws installed. I was surprised to learn on the Aria that the sides of the slides are made of or covered with aluminum. I predrilled a smaller hole in the aluminum of the slide and everything pulled down tight. Only one screw thread was stripped but 4 or 5 had stripped out heads so I had to install a new screw 1" away. Thanks for all of your help.