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Old 07-15-2019, 11:27 PM   #1
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THOR #4687
What COACH battery lead feeds back to the CONVERTER

I am trying to get a battery meter installed and having an issue on which POSITIVE battery cable leads back to the converter (hence powers everything in the coach)

There is one cable going to the BREAKER in the battery box, another that heads back towards the rear of the coach (toward the converter/fuse panel)

I was assuming that the main POSITIVE cable would go to the BREAKER, but things are not reading the way that I would assume they would...

Anyone have any ideas on this? None of the schematics that THOR has sent actually shows the BREAKER and feed
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Old 07-15-2019, 11:40 PM   #2
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Sound like it. Only one 12V wire going to fuse panel. Should be 4 gauge. If you installed an inverter you might see two wires.

See the two red wires on the bottom.

One is for my inverter. You can use it for your meter if you want. Just have to use a 4 or 6 or maybe 8 g (so its tightens down) then downsize to you size you need.

Dont forget your new fuse for anything you add.
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Old 07-15-2019, 11:41 PM   #3
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THOR #12231
Or maybe share a fuse on the panel for your gauge.
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Old 07-15-2019, 11:44 PM   #4
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Do you want to have the battery gauge by the door? I was not thinking. I would think the other 12 lead would be the correct one. I have not installed mine yet (had it a year now ) but I was thinking of taping into the switch but the door somehow under the steps.
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Old 07-16-2019, 01:10 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Long & Winding road View Post
Do you want to have the battery gauge by the door? I was not thinking. I would think the other 12 lead would be the correct one. I have not installed mine yet (had it a year now ) but I was thinking of taping into the switch but the door somehow under the steps.
I wasn't thinking when I posted originally... I was able to throw the breaker in the battery box and see if I still had lights. Since, with the breaker throw, I still had lights, figured it must be the "other" lead going to the rear and converter....

Moved the circular transformer that the battery cable goes through from the first (BREAKER) cable and moved to the second cable. Now the battery meter is reading amps used/amps added (when charging) watts used/watts added (when charging) just like it should....

Thanks for your help and replies!
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Old 07-16-2019, 01:53 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mo_Mike View Post
I wasn't thinking when I posted originally... I was able to throw the breaker in the battery box and see if I still had lights. Since, with the breaker throw, I still had lights, figured it must be the "other" lead going to the rear and converter....

Moved the circular transformer that the battery cable goes through from the first (BREAKER) cable and moved to the second cable. Now the battery meter is reading amps used/amps added (when charging) watts used/watts added (when charging) just like it should....

Thanks for your help and replies!
What monitor are you installing that uses a "transformer"? Most use a shunt on the DC side. I have seen transformers (coils) for AC monitors.
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Old 07-16-2019, 01:59 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by 16ACE27 View Post
What monitor are you installing that uses a "transformer"? Most use a shunt on the DC side. I have seen transformers (coils) for AC monitors.

DROK 200123 Digital Multimeter AC 80-260V 100A Voltage Amperage Power Energy Meter AC Volt Amp Tester Voltmeter Ammeter Watt Meter

28.90 on AMAZON. Once setup (and put on the "right" cable), it seems to work extremely well...I had one with a "shunt", but really didn't want to rely on a "shunt" in the battery plant.
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Old 07-16-2019, 02:11 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mo_Mike View Post
DROK 200123 Digital Multimeter AC 80-260V 100A Voltage Amperage Power Energy Meter AC Volt Amp Tester Voltmeter Ammeter Watt Meter

28.90 on AMAZON. Once setup (and put on the "right" cable), it seems to work extremely well...I had one with a "shunt", but really didn't want to rely on a "shunt" in the battery plant.
Ummmm; the DROK 200123 Digital Multimeter is an AC Volt/Ammeter and only costs $17:



I think you meant the DROK DC 0-90V 100A Volt Amp Power Watt Cap Meter
for $28:



They didn't have that available when I put my shunt based DROK in; maybe I'll "upgrade".
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Old 07-16-2019, 02:30 AM   #9
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Sorry, here is the exact order from AMAZON:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I didn't think that 100 amp was correct....

I liked this one since it had the "battery graphic" makes it easy for other people to see the status of the batteries..

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Old 07-17-2019, 08:21 PM   #10
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I finally got the meter installed (instead of laying on the floor)

Kind of happy the way the install turned out...
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