Caulking

[travlingman]

What brand of caulking are you using for the sides around baggage doors,seams, etc? I was looking at the new Dicor non sag cap sealant. Have looked at Lexel but it seems pretty hard to use.

[Chateau_Nomad]

Geocel ProFlex RV Sealant. Yes it can be messy... use sparingly - I've had good success just using a wet finger to smooth it just like you would with ordinary caulk.

[Cummins12V98]

Pro tip here. Place your bead of caulking. Now spray with window cleaner and proceed to wipe. Caulk stays where you placed it and won't stick to sprayed surfaces.

[Chateau_Nomad]

Originally Posted by Cummins12V98

Pro tip here. Place your bead of caulking. Now spray with window cleaner and proceed to wipe. Caulk stays where you placed it and won't stick to sprayed surfaces.

100%! I remember using this method a few years ago on a bead of gray silicone between subway tile backsplash and granite countertop in our kitchen remodel. When I saw a video of a guy doing it I thought it was a spoof... until I tried it! Awesome results!

[travlingman]

Originally Posted by Cummins12V98

Pro tip here. Place your bead of caulking. Now spray with window cleaner and proceed to wipe. Caulk stays where you placed it and won't stick to sprayed surfaces.

Will do that.

Going to give the Lexel a try. Have read up about it and got a small tube to try. Now waiting for the rain to go away to try.

[Pete'sMH]

Originally Posted by travlingman

Will do that.

Going to give the Lexel a try. Have read up about it and got a small tube to try. Now waiting for the rain to go away to try.

It’s great stuff. Not especially easy to “work” but worth the effort.

[Porthole]

‘Ammonia free’ window cleaner.

[Cummins12V98]

Dawn detergent in a spray bottle mixed with water also works.

[rynosback]

Originally Posted by Cummins12V98

Pro tip here. Place your bead of caulking. Now spray with window cleaner and proceed to wipe. Caulk stays where you placed it and won't stick to sprayed surfaces.

Make sure you use ammonia free window cleaner.

[rynosback]

Originally Posted by Porthole

‘Ammonia free’ window cleaner.

I posted the same thing and then saw your post.

[travlingman]

Have a trip planned for next week so I got out and worked on a few areas were the caulk had cracked or started to come loose. Started off using Dicor non sag cap seal caulk in clear. This stuff is hard to work with in my opinion. Had issues with it coming out of the tube in almost like little chunks at time. It is in date. Sprayed window cleaner and then my finger to work in. The areas where it didn't "chunk" smoothed out pretty good. The caulk is clear and takes a while to set. The window cleaner didn't stop it from sticking if it spread out to much.

I tried a couple of areas with the Lexel as I had read it was hard to work with. I bought a small tube that you squeeze by hand as I wanted to see if I liked before I committed to it as it is hard to get off once it sets up. It sets up pretty quick so I wouldn't do a big area at once. Used window spray and then put mineral spirits on finger to work in. You get one chance to smooth and that is about it. It set quick. This stuff is clear and I mean clear. I did a couple of joints where the trim comes together and you can't see it. You have to touch it to see if it is there.

Going to give it a few weeks and compare the 2 and then start working on rig as the caulk DRV used is pretty pitiful.

[Chateau_Nomad]

Sounds like a plan came together for you!

Just a note for reference... I removed the roof refer vent lid to route solar cables down through. Thor literally filled the screw recesses with clear sealant... right into the screw heads! Great for sealing until you want to remove the cover.

When I replaced the lid, I used the Geocel ProFlex - but just enough to cover the recesses.

About a week later I had to remove the cover again to apply Eternabond around the vent. When I scraped the ProFlex off I noticed it wasn't fully cured underneath ??? A week in 80° sunny weather?

Might try the Lexel clear... please update after you're finished with a followup and review!

[Cummins12V98]

Originally Posted by rynosback

Make sure you use ammonia free window cleaner.

I think most is but what is wrong if it has it?

[rynosback]

Originally Posted by Cummins12V98

I think most is but what is wrong if it has it?

Because it evaporates quickly.

[Porthole]

Originally Posted by travlingman

Going to give it a few weeks and compare the 2 and then start working on rig as the caulk DRV used is pretty pitiful.

Leon Kirby AKA The Nomad Detailer has good videos on youtube showing the procedure he has perfected with using Lexel.

https://www.youtube.com/@thenomaddet...air2375/videos

[travlingman]

Originally Posted by Porthole

Leon Kirby AKA The Nomad Detailer has good videos on youtube showing the procedure he has perfected with using Lexel.

https://www.youtube.com/@thenomaddet...air2375/videos

He has good videos. I watched before I used it and it worked out good. Still haven't decided if I am going to try his Simple Reflections.

[blw2]

I'm going to post a thought that goes against the common knowledge
I'm not so convinced that caulking the seams does anything much other than make money for the caulk companies and RV dealers that sell it...and gives the manufacturer an excuse to not cover a warranty claim from improper work on their part.

Have you ever looked at how these 'fixtures' that are mounted into openings are installed? (windows, hatches, etc...)
there's a relatively huge surface area that is sealed with butyl tape or some similar sealant....and then there is typically some mechanical means that clamps/holds the sealed surfaces together. Acts like a gasketed joint. gasketed joints can seal against tremendous pressures.

Any tiny little bead of caulk I can put on from the outside without disassembling the thing has basically no sealing surface area and nothing mechanical to help really hold against pressures, etc... + it's almost always going to be compromised from the start because of a dirty surface, etc....

or
looking at it another way...have you ever tried to seal an active leak in something that has no significant opening or 'gap', by putting a bead of caulk over a hairline seam?
An extreme silly example just to make the point...might be a leaking garden hose attached to the hose bibb with a bad gasket in the connection. Good luck sealing that with caulk from the outside, without taking it apart first. BUT...put a proper gasket in and there is no need for caulk at all.

I recon self leveling dicor type caulk on the roof might be about the only exception.....and that's because it spreads out adhering itself of a very large surface area...assuming said surface is clean