Victron .renogy dc app

[Joe z]

Can I get any input ..why is my cc is showing (good charging 20 amps)
At 14 ish Volts

But my victron shunt only shows 12.6

And only 6 amps charging?

Checked with voltmeter at battery it is accurate @12.6

Is it possible I'm losing that much amps to battery from the charge controller

25 feet distance,8 gauge cable

[16ACE27]

There are other things connected to the output of the Charge Controller besides the house battery bank.

Without any more specifics I'd say you may have the chassis battery connected through the BIM/BIRD/Etc, and
The House DC buss with it's loads in the RV,
Are all connected in parallel.

[Joe z]

With engine on

Then off

[Joe z]

Engine on

[Joe z]

Only solar panels to cc

Everything else to shunt via busbar

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by Joe z

Only solar panels to cc

Everything else to shunt via busbar

And the shunt is connect to/set to measure????????

House battery bank voltage/current?

EDIT: Nevermind
Looked at your previous threads
Fascinated with technology
Struggling with basic DC circuits and RV DC systems
Out.

[Joe z]

Very true, especially with dots like myself.

I changed to a pd60 that seemed to help

Just a little paranoid on the numbers

Did a weekend trip to themojave desert 4 days

With a bunch of monsters (grandkids) so you have a idea how much power was used

Lowest I got was 52 percent

Running generator about 8hrs total so I assume that wasn't to bad

18.. 37.1 miramar
570 watts solar
4.. 6 volt 220 batteries which are about 3 years old

[RACarvalho]

Originally Posted by Joe z

Can I get any input ..

This is what I found when chasing the same ghosts:

1 - At the battery disconnect the brilliant guy that was connecting the cables at the factory cut the battery cable terminal ring in half in order to better (quickly?) accommodate the ring on the switch.
That dramatically reduced the contact area at that terminal and caused huge voltage loss at loads above 2 amps.
2 - The factory positive battery cable (6 AWG) running to house is way too small to handle the amps needed during the 25ft+ run from the battery(midship driver side) to the battery disconnect (front passenger side) to the Firefly/breaker panels(all the way in the back, under the bed) and where causing additional voltage loss at load....

I changed the entire cable run with AWG 2 and proper cable terminal size and now I see only minimal voltage loss/difference between the Victron (battery) and the Firefly panel(circuit breaker) under heavy load (20amps+).

That difference is important because what the converter and the AGS see is the voltage at the panel(lower) not the true battery voltage so the AGS would start before it needs to and the converter would not charge the battery properly because of system loss.
Also, a reduced voltage creates a higher current at the slides and reduce the slides motors life...
After the fix everything is working properly.

In retrospect , If I had to do it again, I would run a cable (AWG 2) direct from the battery to the breaker panel and use the original Battery+ cable as signal for a solenoid battery disconnect in this new (but shorter) cable run under the bed.

My recommendation is that you start by printing your schematics, then put a load (15 amps) in the system and measure the voltage drop at each leg of the system (the voltage at the beginning and end of each run) and find out where the voltage is dropping.
That will give you and idea on where to start.

[Joe z]

Here's another clueless question, feel like a idiot asking but here it goes.

When generator on I'm producing 10/12 amps
Isn't that kindve low.

on a sunny day I'm getting 16/18 ah just on solar


Only the main power on with residential frig running

5000 onan
4 6 volt batteries
Pd9260
Xantrex 2000

570 solar with 10 gauge wire from charge controller to batteries 25 feet distance

Would 4 gauge help

[Joe z]

Photo is while gen is running

Alternator pulls 45ish when on

[RACarvalho]

Originally Posted by Joe z

Here's another clueless question, feel like a idiot asking but here it goes.

When generator on I'm producing 10/12 amps
Isn't that kindve low.

on a sunny day I'm getting 16/18 ah just on solar


Only the main power on with residential frig running

5000 onan
4 6 volt batteries
Pd9260
Xantrex 2000

570 solar with 10 gauge wire from charge controller to batteries 25 feet distance

Would 4 gauge help

The way Thor designs its electrical system will cause that.
Is what always happens in mine.

The generator energy goes through the converter which not only charges the batteries but supply 12V to house so, as almost everything that does more than one thing at time, it can't do the job properly and follow a true charge curve therefore it almost never will top the battery to 100% (system will say it is at 100% though).

You almost never will see the converter charge the batteries at 14.5V,which is how you truly get to 100% of state of charge.
The converter almost always will try to keep around 13.6V during charge and report that it is "fully charged" when current draw gets low BUT if you switch the battery disconnect to off, the solar charge controller will take over, raise the voltage to 14.5V and put more amps into the battery....
I changed my converter to a PD one and got the same results, they all work that way and the impression I have is because, doing two things at the same time, they can never really know if the current draw is going to the batteries or to someone else to in order to not cause problems they play safe and limit the voltage at 13.5V....

It is a bummer but if you have a big battery bank, don't use battery much or is not a maintenance freak (like me) you will never notice.

[Joe z]

Wow..spot on

exactly what I'm experiencing

Do you think changing to 4 gauge be worth it

[RACarvalho]

Originally Posted by Joe z

Wow..spot on

exactly what I'm experiencing

Do you think changing to 4 gauge be worth it

Changing to a bigger cable will reduce voltage drop at higher loads but will not fix the charging situation.
To fix the charging situation would require an "open heart" surgery in the electrical system so what I do is let the converter charge until it decides the batteries are full(zero current) then I switch the battery disconnect ro off and let the solar panels (I have 200w) finish charging.
As for the voltage drop, I suggest you measure the voltage drop at each leg of the system to locate potential problems before changing wires.
See my post above.