2015 Thor Windsport Electrical Problems

AFLOGGIE · 10-13-2022, 12:06 AM

Having electrical problems with MH.

Been plugged into the house using a 50-30 step-down. Was not overloading the breaker. All systems were working fine. The fridge was getting cold and all other systems we're working well until the house breaker popped a few times and I unplugged it.

In the meantime with the generator on the GFCI for the RV popped would not reset.

Checked all the breakers and all checked all of the fuses. They were good. The generator 30AMP switches were switched on after the genset powered up. Still the GFCI would not stay powered up.

Started up the generator and still nothing would power up. With the RV on internal battery, the lights will work but the nothing else.

Will having a dedicated 50AMP circuit and plug solve all of this issues or have i done some damage to my RV.

Whatever suggestions or advice anyone might have will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

AFLOGGIE

OldWEB · 10-13-2022, 01:32 AM

Where is this "GFCI for the RV" located?

**16ACE27** · 10-13-2022, 01:46 AM

Changing the SP from 30 amp to 50 amp will not fix anything. I recommend you take a close look at your ATS and connections.

AFLOGGIE · 10-13-2022, 01:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OldWEB

Where is this "GFCI for the RV" located?

In the bathroom right of the sink

AFLOGGIE · 10-13-2022, 01:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

Changing the SP from 30 amp to 50 amp will not fix anything. I recommend you take a close look at your ATS and connections.

ATS and Connections? Sorry, late at night and not sure what ATS is.

UPDATE: The power to fridge has returned but will on ly run on gas to stay cold. Have full tank of propane.

**16ACE27** · 10-13-2022, 03:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AFLOGGIE

ATS and Connections? Sorry, late at night and not sure what ATS is.

UPDATE: The power to fridge has returned but will on ly run on gas to stay cold. Have full tank of propane.

Automatic Transfer Switch.

The fridge uses 12 VDC control power from the batteries when running on propane ( and AC heating). You probably never lost that.

AFLOGGIE · 10-13-2022, 03:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

Automatic Transfer Switch.

The fridge uses 12 VDC control power from the batteries when running on propane ( and AC heating). You probably never lost that.

Next step to recover?

AFLOGGIE · 10-13-2022, 03:55 AM

Thanks for that info. Is there a next step to recover. Can the ATS be reset?

AFLOGGIE · 10-13-2022, 03:56 AM

If the ATS failed is it easy to get to?

OldWEB · 10-13-2022, 11:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AFLOGGIE

If the ATS failed is it easy to get to?

50A ATS
Remember the AC from the generator and shore power come into the ATS, so ensure both power supplies are off if you open it. The ATS can be 'anywhere', you need to follow the above power supplies to find it then.

Sometimes behind a drawer, under a closet or bed, but near the AC breaker panel.

AFLOGGIE · 10-17-2022, 12:20 AM

UPDATE: Electrical issues were USER/OPERATOR error. RV is 50AMP/240VAC not 50AMP/110VAC. Round Peg into Square hold.
Took RV out this weekend and plugged into the proper power and ALL WORKED AS ADVERTISED.

Thanks to all who offered suggestions. Got real smart on the systems. Knowledge is a dangerous thing.

Lesson's Learned

**16ACE27** · 10-17-2022, 12:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AFLOGGIE

UPDATE: Electrical issues were USER/OPERATOR error. RV is 50AMP/240VAC not 50AMP/110VAC. Round Peg into Square hold.
Took RV out this weekend and plugged into the proper power and ALL WORKED AS ADVERTISED.

Thanks to all who offered suggestions. Got real smart on the systems. Knowledge is a dangerous thing.

Lesson's Learned

How did you plug into a 50 Amp 110 VAC receptacle? Is there even such a NEMA standard?

BTW, although a 50 amp RV plugs into and uses a standard 240V/120V 50 amp receptacle which supplies 240 VAC to the RV, almost all RVs just use the 120 VAC legs to power the electrical equipment. That's why you can use adapters/dogbones to plug into 30 amp RV receptacles and household 15/20 amp receptacles. Of course current is limited if you plug into one of these lower current capable receptacles.

OldWEB · 10-17-2022, 12:49 AM

Glad all worked out!!

Well, very good you "got real smart" on the system, now is the time to understand it.

It was a little hard to understand your problem reporting, well to me anyways...

Quote:

Originally Posted by AFLOGGIE

Having electrical problems with MH.

Been plugged into the house using a 50-30 step-down.
I ass-u-med you used a 50/30 amp adapter so would have had 120V on both legs. (30A)

Was not overloading the breaker. I ass-u-med it was the house breaker here and it did not trip. All systems were working fine. The fridge was getting cold and all other systems we're working well until the house breaker popped So it did "pop"? a few times and I unplugged it.

In the meantime with the generator on the GFCI for the RV popped would not reset. So the generator had power?

Checked all the breakers and all checked all of the fuses. They were good. The generator 30AMP switches were switched on after the genset powered up. So the generator worked? Still the GFCI would not stay powered up.

Started up the generator and still nothing would power up. I thought it worked? With the RV on internal battery, the lights will work but the nothing else. Lights are DC powered.

Will having a dedicated 50AMP circuit and plug solve all of this issues or have i done some damage to my RV. You can use a 50/30/15amp adapter and it should work, but you are limited to the input breaker size. No heavy loads like the A/C though.

Whatever suggestions or advice anyone might have will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

AFLOGGIE

After all this, again, I ass-u-me that you had just overloaded the house breaker.... which you stated you were NOT doing.

In my head it was confusing the way explained, use the KISS method next time!

Happy trails pardner!

You may also like: