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09-16-2021, 12:56 AM
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#21
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Hurricane 31S
State: Texas
Posts: 3,991
THOR #6411
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cooch
Thx Muggs and all for sharing in my pain!
We've agreed electrician owes me some free work. Not doin the 100amp...already had him do the 120 outlet and its my stepdaughters house so 100amp plus an extra 120 outlet would be overkill.
I think the WF8955 converter is done...it is receiving power but not workin...i have a call into WFCO to see if it can be saved with a part like Muggs did.
Seems like the ATS is working...i hear it kick in after connecting power and everything in RV works except the fried microwave and tv.
Gonna wait til get home and take my time ordering/installing new converter. (or parts depending on what WFCO tech advises).
Figure the alternator will charge house batteries while on the road for 3 days so safe to get home.
The Progessive Dynamics conerters that others have bought won't fit in my 2015 Axis 24.1. So stuck just buyin another WF8955 if can't replace parts.
You all are great and i truly appreciate the responses! Felt like i was not alone in dealing with this mess that i don't know much about.
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You just need to buy a new converter and not the whole power center. I replaced my WFCO 8955 power center with a PPS 5365 when I converted the coach to 50 amps. Most PPS converters are about the same size a the equivalent WFCO. Never had a problem in 4 years.
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Jim & Roy Davis
2016 Hurricane 31S
1961 Rampside in tow
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09-16-2021, 01:17 AM
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#22
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Site Team
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: ACE 27.1
State: Florida
Posts: 12,739
THOR #7035
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What Beau said. The upgrade converter fits in the same spot as the OEM converter.
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Ted & Melinda
2016 ACE 27.1
2016 Chevy Sonic Toad
2020 Chevy Colorado Z71 Trail Runner Alternate Toad
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09-22-2021, 07:04 PM
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#23
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Junior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Chateau 27R
State: New Mexico
Posts: 7
THOR #23009
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The "electrician" is going to pay to fix it, right?
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09-22-2021, 09:10 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Brand: Cruiser
Model: Georgetown 30x3
State: Idaho
Posts: 223
THOR #17441
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkoldman
I hear about how this can happen all the time, but never heard of it actually happening to anyone until now. I think it ironic that you used an Electrician. I wired mine myself despite the advice to hire an Electrician. You might as well put on a 50/30/20 pedestal given you have two legs of 120 vac anyway.
Have you checked voltage on back side of ATS or started your generator to confirm power and no converter. I know you looking for breakers, but you may also post your converter model number, I am pretty sure it will lay out if any safety precautions built in for high voltage.
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Happened to my son, too, a few years ago. Electrician repaired hookup but not damage done to trailer stuff. It was an ordeal to track down and fix everything.
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09-22-2021, 09:12 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Brand: Cruiser
Model: Georgetown 30x3
State: Idaho
Posts: 223
THOR #17441
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArmstrongRV
The "electrician" is going to pay to fix it, right?
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The electrician will likely rewire the plug but unless you have a written contract specifying 120v you won’t get help on RV repairs. Your responsibility to check before plugging in.
This applies at campgrounds too.
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09-23-2021, 12:39 AM
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#26
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Junior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Axis 24.1 - Ford E-350
State: Florida
Posts: 19
THOR #14429
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Update on fried converter
Thx again to all who helped out. I ended up finding an identical replacement WF converter on Amazon for $175. (Th PD upgrades didn't appear to fit in my WF cabinet and it was easier to buy the same unit for ease of rewiring.) Electrician paid for the converter, installed it and gave me extra $ to cover some of other blown items. Am eating the rest since i did not plug in my EMS first so shame on me. Overall i got off easy...just a microwave and couple tv's (that i know of so far). Just did 600 miles and no other issues popped up so hoping problem is solved.
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09-23-2021, 01:15 AM
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#27
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: 2011 FW Hurricane 33T
State: England
Posts: 1,158
THOR #16471
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In the bottom picture of post #20 is the converter. If you look in the bottom RH side, there are the two B/W wires coming in (AC), then is a filter capacitor (Grn rectangle shape) and then a ceramic fuse, labelled 15A/250V (I think)... did you check that at all?
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09-23-2021, 01:26 AM
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#28
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Junior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Axis 24.1 - Ford E-350
State: Florida
Posts: 19
THOR #14429
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Thx OldWebb. I never noticed that fuse! My new converter is already installed, but i kept the old one. Will get around to checking out those items to see if i can salvage the old one as a backup
__________________
Cooch
2015 Thor Axis 24.1 (2014 Ford E-350)
Safe-T-Plus, front SUMO's, Roadmaster rear sway bar, TST TPMS
Toad: 2020 Ford Escape Hybrid, Blue Ox Alpha
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09-23-2021, 01:28 AM
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#29
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: 2011 FW Hurricane 33T
State: England
Posts: 1,158
THOR #16471
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In the other picture, I notice you also have that wire nut "extension" to the GFCI breaker. I had that in my MH and removed it. Here is why...
https://www.thorforums.com/forums/f8...box-26804.html
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09-23-2021, 01:30 AM
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#30
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: 2011 FW Hurricane 33T
State: England
Posts: 1,158
THOR #16471
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cooch
Thx OldWebb. I never noticed that fuse! My new converter is already installed, but i kept the old one. Will get around to checking out those items to see if i can salvage the old one as a backup
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It looks looks like the fuse is soldered in, trickier to replace but doable.
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09-23-2021, 07:25 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Vegas 24.1
State: Florida
Posts: 879
THOR #5313
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Your capacitor setup different than board came out of mine. The capacitor that popped was in opposite plane and easily twice size of black ones. Amazing how much confetti looking stuff came out. New board looked different. Fuse would not have helped me with blown capacitor.
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