Thor Forums

[Chance]

Originally Posted by Laco

Just based on what my experience has been, seems to me the problems with absorption refrigerators are more limited to the bigger ones. In my former DP, the absorption refrigerator was a very large 4 door, had lots of trouble cooling when first turned on, and problems maintaining temps in very warm weather. On the Gemini, its a much smaller absorption refrigerator, which cools very quickly in comparison, refrigerator section stays at a pretty consistent 38 degrees, freezer at about -3 degrees. I have yet to run it on propane for any period of time, its wired to the inverter, so while driving its still running on 120 volts, alternator replacing what energy is used. If I am parked for any period of time with no shore power, I will switch it to LP, but for us that does not happen often. The need to be level does not seem to be a problem while driving, and since the Gemini has an auto-leveling system, its not a problem when parked either. We could probably get by with either the absorption, or a residential refrigerator, but frankly the currently installed absorption refrigerator is working just fine for us.

Not to drag this out since OP already thinks we’ve drifted off topic, but I think it’s very important to note the differences between absorption and compressor refrigerators to help educate newbies who may not know.

Specifications shown below show that a similar size Norcold absorption unit running off 120 Volt AC power uses 3 Amps, or roughly 360 watts.

By comparison, the similar size Norcold compressor fridge list power at 3.2 Amps at 12 Volts, or about 40 watts. In this case the absorption refrigerator requires 9 times more power.

If powering from shore power, the extra 3 Amps at 120 Volts may not matter. Powering off alternator may make more of a difference because the 360 watts would need roughly 30 Amps, which is significant. However, if powering from batteries, it wouldn’t take long at 30+ Amps (12 VDC) to kill them.


Some of us understand all these options fairly well, but a lot of RVers don’t know, and honestly don’t care, how all these options relate and interact. For that reason manufacturers should try to make RVs simpler when possible, and in my opinion a refrigerator that can work efficiently directly from battery bank is a good step in that direction.

I personally like the simplicity of an On-Off switch which everyone can understand. No need to worry about turning off while fueling, or whether pilot light goes off while traveling, or extra vents to the outside which creates added holes in RV, outside temperature limits, etc. Many of them also provide more storage volume in same space because the cooling equipment packaging is more efficient.

Just saying there is a lot to like about compressor refrigerators, and not all of it is achieved with a retrofit kit like mentioned in OP. If you want one it should be done from the start. I expect this trend like used in Winnebago View to continue. In the long run it should cost less too.