Quote:
Originally Posted by TurnerFam
your water heater, like mine, is likely only an AUTOMATIC type - there is no 'pilot' to light, and no pilot stays lit - it is a 12v spark ignitor, just like on your propane gas grill at home. The 'click' provides the spark, igniting the propane. This happens automatically when you flip the GAS or PROPANE heater switch in the RV.
If you are seeing a 'light', or red indicator, at the switch, you may need to 'reboot' the heater by switching OFF, or down, your USE/STORE switch by the entry door, for a moment, then back ON/Up.
This may allow the 12v ignitor to get back in business and spark the propane.
Now, for the ELECTRIC side of the equation, as your Water Heater has both.
The Electric water heater element will only HEAT your water IF you are plugged into shore power, or if you are running your GENERATOR. If it does not work, or seem to heat the water, if either of those power sources are in play, then your breaker for the Water Heater may have tripped. Check your main circuit panel breakers.
As for heating water, you can use the Electric, or the Propane(Gas), or BOTH at the same time - many people do that when they need quick heating of the water, when back-to-back showers are needed, etc.
the question of why your shower is not getting the 'hot water', but your kitchen sink is, may be because you have a kink somewhere in your hot water line to the shower, or more often because you may have left your outside shower 'on'. The outside shower handles have their own 'on/off' button, and sometimes it looks like the shower was left off, when really only the handle's button was pushed to stop the flow of water, while the hot or cold knob was left on.
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Thanks, that's helpful for even a newbie like me to understand!
The shower wasnt on outside. I don't know what the deal with the electric is yet, but I do know at least partially what's up with the gas water heating.
A mobile RV guy who was helpin my neighbor with his slide, walked over & used the little light thingy (sorry, don't remember the name, but I'm gonna get one!) to check my panel.
He found the plug (again, don't remember the name) under the brown wire, that so many folks were mentioning here, was bad. He popped in a new one that he got from amazon for about $30 dollars & then it lit up the light thingy. That part solved.
However, then he found with some more digging, that the board itself (the new style Atwood that's using 2 'thingys' on top of the board instead of 1) was bad. He said that was much more expensive. He checked his truck to see if he had any of the new kinds, but it was a No-Go.
The thing that really concerned him was that even tho the board was 'dead', when I would turn on the gas water inside, the board outside didnt stop the gas from releasing to light the pilot (he seemed to think it should). You could smell it clearly. The water release valve itself remained hot to the touch right above where the gas was releasing, with the electric water still switched on at the panel.
He worried about that sitrep. So I've turned both types of hot water off inside on the panel & I also turned off the breaker under my bed that says hot water heater (15 amps), just to be overtly cautious, till I can get it to CW Hampton Rds VA on Monday. The mobile mechanic refused to charge me for all their help!
So, I want to give a recommendation to any of y'all who may need a reputable guy to look at something for you if you end up down by Ft Bragg, His card says "The RV Doctor, A-1 RV Repair Service, Certified Technician" His number is: 910/303-8495 (I apologize if that's not allowed, & please somebody let me know, so I don't mess up in the future).
I want to thank everyone here for all their wonderful help & explanations
Donna & Radar (the SD)
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