Quote:
Originally Posted by lwmcguire
Cavie just said what I was going to
Get one with clips for the leads as well to help make some of the testing easier
What your up aground has-been 10-15 minutes or so with a VOM meter
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Thanks for the cautionary response. I understand electricity enough not to get shocked. [emoji23]. I think positive and negative clips would be helpful as well as a better multimeter. If you’re familiar with the “relay switch” and element box and it’s location it’s almost impossible to actually use the multimeter. That is without taking the heater completely out. Holding the negative and positive prongs and reaching awkwardly under the sink is difficult. I’m trying to get the reading from the back side under the sink. When I finally opened the black box, two wires were fried. Assuming from earlier threads, the plastic nut was loose. I’m thinking that burned out the “relay switch”. The reason I asked the specific question was I am wondering if the 110 control panel switch could be bad as well. I took the panel off and tested for continuity. But I was unsure how to specifically test the “relay switch”. The early response indicated that one could see movement. My relay switch is completely enclosed with four separate connections. I’ve ordered a new relay switch and panel switch. Relatively inexpensive. I’ll replace those items and hope for the best. I’ll keep you posted. Oh I took a quick tutorial on the multimeter. Amps, volts, ohms - oh my! Hey our county is on lock down. I have plenty of time and no where to go.
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